Download or read book The Big Wave written by Pearl S. Buck and published by Open Road Media. This book was released on 2012-08-21 with total page 69 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The classic tale of a Japanese boy orphaned by a tsunami from the author of The Good Earth, the first American woman to win the Nobel Prize in Literature. On a mountainside in Japan, two boys enjoy a humble life governed by age-old customs. Jiya belongs to a family of fishermen; his best friend, Kino, farms rice. But when a neighboring volcano erupts and a tidal wave swallows their village—including Jiya’s family—life as they know it is changed forever. The orphaned Jiya must learn to come to terms with his grief. Now facing a profoundly different life than the one he’d always taken for granted, he must decide on a new way forward. Written with graceful simplicity, The Big Wave won the Children’s Book Award of the Child Study Association of America when it was first released. This ebook features an illustrated biography of Pearl S. Buck including rare images from the author’s estate.

Download or read book Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2021-10-26 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.

Download or read book Sarah and the Big Wave written by Bonnie Tsui and published by Henry Holt and Company (BYR). This book was released on 2021-05-11 with total page 19 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This stunning nonfiction picture book tells the inspiring story of Sarah Gerhardt, one of the first female big-wave surfers. Have you ever seen a big wave? One that’s twenty, thirty, forty, even fifty feet tall? Here’s a better question: Would you ever surf a big wave? Sarah Gerhardt did—and this is her story. Sarah and the Big Wave, a tale of perseverance and indomitable spirit, is about the first woman to ride the waves at Mavericks, one of the biggest and most dangerous surf breaks in the world.

Download or read book Escaping the Giant Wave written by Peg Kehret and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2015-03-17 with total page 105 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When an earthquake hits on their family vacation, can Kyle and his sister survive the following tsunami? The Worst Vacation Ever! Thirteen-year-old Kyle thought spending a vacation on the Oregon coast with his family would be great. He’d never flown before, and he’s never seen the Pacific Ocean. One evening Kyle is left in charge of his younger sister, BeeBee, while his parents attend an adults-only Salesman of the Year dinner on an elegant yacht. Then the earthquake comes—starting a fire in their hotel! As Kyle and BeeBee fight their way out through smoke and flame, Kyle remembers the sign at the beach that said after an earthquake everyone should go uphill and inland, as far from the ocean as possible. Giant tsunami waves—three or four stories high—can ride in from the sea and engulf anyone who doesn’t escape fast enough. Kyle and BeeBee flee uphill as a tsunami crashes over the beach, the hotel, and the town. The giant wave charges straight up the hillside and through the woods where the children are running for their lives. The perfect vacation has become a nightmare! Somehow Kyle and BeeBee have to outwit nature’s fury and save themselves from tsunami terror.

Download or read book Ghost Wave written by Chris Dixon and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2011-10-21 with total page 281 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “Takes us to a place of almost mythic power and tells a story that unfolds like a long ride on a killer wave . . . compellingly written.” —Sebastian Junger, New York Times–bestselling author Rising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just fifteen feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: this is the home of the biggest rideable wave on the face of the earth. In this dramatic work of narrative nonfiction, journalist Chris Dixon unlocks the secrets of Cortes Bank and pulls readers into the harrowing world of big wave surfing and high seas adventure above the most enigmatic and dangerous rock in the sea. The true story of this Everest of the sea will thrill anyone with an abiding curiosity of and respect for mother ocean. “A terrific, deeply researched tale about a truly wild place. You couldn’t make up Cortes Bank, or the characters who’ve tried to make it theirs.” —William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize–winning author of Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life “A first-rate account of an amazing phenomenon and the people who tried to conquer and exploit it. A great read.” —Winston Groom, New York Times–bestselling author of Forrest Gump “After reading Chris’ most excellent account of the monstrous waves of the mysterious Cortes Bank—the Bermuda Triangle of the Pacific—I never thought I would ever consider riding a wave like this. But after surviving a five-foot, head-first fall from the stage earlier this year, I think I might be ready.” —Jimmy Buffett

Download or read book Mrs Armitage and the Big Wave written by Quentin Blake and published by Random House. This book was released on 2000 with total page 34 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: MINI TREASURES: delightful mini picture books to treasure forever. ONE STORMY NIGHT 'One Stormy night, the wind was howling, the iron gate creaked and the black cat hissed. ' So begins Ruth Brown's spine-chilling ghost story of a night where not everything is as it seems. . .

Download or read book Maverick s written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2003-10-09 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With its massive faces, punishing rocks, and treacherous currents, Maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. Author Matt Warshaw has updated his critically acclaimed illustrated history of Maverick's to cover important recent developments, and we've added a fresh new cover to kick this edition off in style. "A fascinating account," to quote Surfer magazine, it takes "a cue from Sebastian Junger's The Perfect Storm...Warshaw focused on a single event...and expands on it to illuminate an entire culture and its world beyond waves." The event was the death of celebrated surfer Mark Foo, one of those who congregate every winter to test themselves in the dark, foreboding waters. And what unfolds in Maverick's is no less than the story of big-wave surfing, from its ancient Hawaiian origins to modern tow-in riders. It's a book to be enjoyed not only by those who surf deep in the waves, but also by those whose taste for adventure is satisfied deep in the pages of a very good book.

Download or read book North Shore Chronicles written by Bruce Jenkins and published by Frog Books. This book was released on 2005-08-05 with total page 284 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.

Download or read book Stealing the Wave written by Andy Martin and published by Bloomsbury Publishing USA. This book was released on 2008-12-01 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 'A classic tale of sporting rivalry' Observer 'The tales are gripping ... surfing emerges as a dangerous, solitary and potential fatal obsession' Telegraph 'A fascinating glimpse into obsession' Independent A gripping true story of a tragic and bitter rivalry in the world of surfing Winter. Mid-eighties. Hawai'i. Two surfers are battling for supremacy at Waimea Bay, home to the biggest waves in the world. Old-school, and some say too old, Ken Bradshaw commands respect with his fearlessness and fearsome temper. Mark Foo is the new kid on the block. Icon of the younger generation, this photogenic Chinese-American wows the crowds with his lightning repertoire of cool moves. One perfect day at Sunset Beach, Foo audaciously steals a wave from under Bradshaw's nose, sparking a bitter feud that is to last for over ten years and end in tragedy.

Download or read book Kenta and the Big Wave written by Ruth Ohi and published by . This book was released on 2013 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When a devastating tsunami strikes Kenta's village, his beloved soccer ball is swept away and washes up on a beach on the other side of the world.

Download or read book The Great Wave written by Veronique Massenot and published by National Geographic Books. This book was released on 2011-05-20 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Hokusai’s classic woodcut of a majestic wave becomes the starting point for a storybook children will want to read again and again. On a stormy winter’s day, a baby boy, Naoki, is swept into a fisherman’s boat by a great wave. Years pass, but still Naoki does not grow. Must he return to the ocean in order to become a young man? The answer arrives in the form of a mythic fish. Japanese artist Hokusai is one of the world’s most celebrated printmakers. His famous woodcut, "The Great Wave," epitomizes the artist’s characteristic techniques and themes. In this children’s book, the artist’s masterpiece is the genesis for a simple but compelling story, beautifully illustrated in pictures that recall Hokusai’s brilliant use of detail, perspective and color. A stunning reproduction of the woodcut itself is featured in the book, supplemented by information about the artist and his work. At once modern and classic, The Great Wave introduces young readers to a beloved artist and his timeless portrayals of nature and transformation.

Download or read book The Big Drop written by John Long and published by Falcon Guides. This book was released on 1999 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A classic collection of big wave surfing stories that heralded a new era in surfing literature--32 tantalizing and terrifying true tales from the sport's pioneers

Download or read book The Great Wave written by David Hackett Fischer and published by Oxford University Press, USA. This book was released on 1999 with total page 556 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Fischer has examined price records in many nations, and finds that great waves of rising prices in the 13th-, 16th-, 18th-, and 20th centuries were all marked by price swings of increasing volatility, falling wages, a growing gap between rich and poor, and an increase in violent crime, family disintegration, and cultural despair. 109 graphs & charts. 7 maps.

Download or read book The Wave written by Susan Casey and published by Anchor Canada. This book was released on 2011-05-31 with total page 434 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.

Download or read book The Finest Line written by Rusty Long and published by Insight Editions. This book was released on 2015-04-14 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Finest Line explores the world of big-wave surfing and it’s dynamic evolution. Through images of hallmark days from the best big-wave locations around the world, firsthand accounts from those who dedicate their lives to chasing and riding giant waves, and expert commentary about the treacherous characteristics of each location, The Finest Line offers an unprecedented glimpse into the psychology of big-wave surfing, as well as its extreme risks and unparalleled rewards. Big-wave surfing has long been a part of the sport, but this subculture of the surf world is now moving out of the fringes. The current generation of surfers is continually reinventing the limits, making this the most advanced, dynamic, and exciting period in big-wave surfing history. This stunning coffee table book captures the essence of the sport through breathtaking images and stories, as well as exclusive interviews with the surfers who play the starring roles during these rare, large-swell events. Here you discover the complex logistics behind staging missions to the Cortes Bank, a phantom reef 100 miles out to sea; the mental and physical regimens of surfers such as Shane Dorian, Greg Long, and Grant “Twiggy” Baker; the psychology of living in pursuit of the world’s meanest waves; the stories behind the paddle-in renaissance that has come to define the next level of big-wave surfing; and firsthand accounts of those now-rare “tow-only” days that captivate audiences worldwide. More than a collection of big-wave photographs, The Finest Line covers the giant, hallmark sessions from the most impressive spots around the globe, capturing the international flavor of the sport and exploring the insatiable drive of a rare breed of thrill seekers.

Download or read book Hokusai s Great Wave written by Christine M. E. Guth and published by University of Hawaii Press. This book was released on 2015-01-31 with total page 274 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Hokusai’s “Great Wave,” as it is commonly known today, is arguably one of Japan’s most successful exports, its commanding cresting profile instantly recognizable no matter how different its representations in media and style. In this richly illustrated and highly original study, Christine Guth examines the iconic wave from its first publication in 1831 through the remarkable range of its articulations, arguing that it has been a site where the tensions, contradictions, and, especially, the productive creativities of the local and the global have been negotiated and expressed. She follows the wave’s trajectory across geographies, linking its movements with larger political, economic, technological, and sociocultural developments. Adopting a case study approach, Guth explores issues that map the social life of the iconic wave across time and place, from the initial reception of the woodblock print in Japan, to the image’s adaptations as part of “international nationalism,” its place in American perceptions of Japan, its commercial adoption for lifestyle branding, and finally to its identification as a tsunami, bringing not culture but disaster in its wake. Wide ranging in scope yet grounded in close readings of disparate iterations of the wave, multidisciplinary and theoretically informed in its approach, Hokusai’s Great Wave will change both how we look at this global icon and the way we study the circulation of Japanese prints. This accessible and engagingly written work moves beyond the standard hagiographical approach to recognize, as categories of analysis, historical and geographic contingency as well as visual and technical brilliance. It is a book that will interest students of Japan and its culture and more generally those seeking fresh perspectives on the dynamics of cultural globalization.

Download or read book Waking Up in the Sea written by Derek Dunfee and published by . This book was released on 2021-04-13 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: WAKING UP IN THE SEABy Derek DunfeeFormat: HardcoverTrim Size: 8.5 x 11308pgs.Professional big wave surfer/ Photographer/ AuthorI go into detail about surfing and chasing big waves around the world, I also open up about how the concussions and trauma I suffered from big wave surfing impacts me everyday. You'll have a better understanding of why I don't surf big waves any more. I've never told this particular story and I'm excited to share.