Download or read book Kinematics of Water Particle Motion Within the Surf Zone written by Rafael Steer and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 124 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The objective of this research was to make preliminary studies on the kinematics of the water particle motion within the surf zone and within breaking waves. Simultaneous measurements were made of the instantaneous sea surface elevation and of horizontal and vertical particle velocities at different elevations in the same column of water in the surf zone, and of the offshore sea surface elevation. The probability density functions and spectra of the wave and particle velocity measurements were determined.

Download or read book Surf Zone Wave Kinematics written by Frank Lee Bub and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 130 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The experiment was designed to measure surface profiles and water velocities in the breaker zone and compare the results with present theory. As a secondary objective the accuracy and usefulness of capacitance wave gages and electromagnetic flow meters in the surf environment were evaluated.

Download or read book The Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone written by Alfred James Olsen and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 164 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Simultaneous measurements of sea surface elevation and onshore and alongshore water particle velocities were measured at three locations within the surf zone using two capacitance type penetrating wave staffs and three two-component electromagnetic flow meters. The probability density functions, pdf, for the sea surface elevation were always highly positively skewed, whereas the pdf's for the velocities were both negatively and positively skewed. Mean values of the onshore and alongshore components of flow reflected the influence of a rip current frequently observed just south of the instrument locations. Strong harmonics in the spectra of sea surface fluctuations and particle velocities infer nonlinear conditions. Coherence values between waves and onshore flow were high, ranging above 0.9. The coherence between waves and onshore flow was used to separate the turbulence and wave-induced velocity components. Over the range of collapsing to spilling breakers a reasonable value for the ratio of turbulent to wave-induced velocity was determined to be approximately 0.75. Saturation regions were found in the wave and velocity energy-density spectra at higher frequencies as evidenced by -5 and -3 slopes, respectively. (Author).

Download or read book Selected Water Resources Abstracts written by and published by . This book was released on 1988 with total page 1198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Water Wave Kinematics written by A. Tørum and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 751 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.

Download or read book Kinematics of Surf Zone Breaking Waves written by James Joseph Galvin and published by . This book was released on 1975 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Simultaneous measurements of water surface fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in a line perpendicular to the direction of wave approach extending across the surf zone were taken in varying surf conditions at two locations. The spectral velocities calculated using linear theory as a transfer function underestimated measured values by 79-86% at the peak of the spectrum. The coherence values were generally low indicating non-linear and turbulent conditions. Strong harmonics in the spectra of the waves and water particle velocities further suggest a non-linear system. The theoretical phases computed using linear theory did not accurately predict the observed phases. In general breaking waves can be characterized as a strongly non-linear wave phenomenon. Measured frequency distributions were compared with both Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions by using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. Qualitatively, the Gram-Charlier distribution gave the better fit to the flow velocity data.

Download or read book Government Reports Announcements written by and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 1000 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Compilation of Abstracts of Dissertations Theses and Research Papers Submitted by Candidates for Degrees written by Naval Postgraduate School (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 434 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Oceanic Instrumentation Reporter written by and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 156 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Eighth Australasian Fluid Mechanics Conference written by R. A. Antonia and published by . This book was released on 1983 with total page 760 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Book Catalog of the Library and Information Services Division Author title series indexes written by Environmental Science Information Center. Library and Information Services Division and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 508 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Book catalog of the Library and Information Services Division written by Environmental Science Information Center. Library and Information Services Division and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 514 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Catalogs of the Scripps Institution of Oceanography Library written by Scripps Institution of Oceanography. Library and published by . This book was released on 1980 with total page 980 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Government Reports Announcements written by and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 1476 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Government Reports Announcements Index written by and published by . This book was released on 1975 with total page 1464 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Selected Water Resources Abstracts written by and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 1282 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book The Kinematics of Water Particle Velocities of Breaking Waves Within the Surf Zone written by Edward B. Thornton and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Simultaneous measurements of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made at the breaker-line within the surf zone using a capacitance type penetrating wave staff, a pressure wave gauge, and an electromagnetic current meter. Wave measurements were also made at seaward and shoreward locations. The wave energy-density spectral components were converted to velocity spectral components using linear wave theory. These computed values compared well qualitatively with the measured velocity spectra. Quantitatively, the results showed that linear theory underpredicted wave-induced horizontal velocity spectral components by about 50 percent at the frequency of peak energy. Probability density functions were computed and compared to Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. The Gram-Charlier distribution qualitatively gave the better fit to the data. (Modified author abstract).