Download or read book Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women s Fiction written by Christine Bayles Kortsch and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2016-05-13 with total page 212 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In her immensely readable and richly documented book, Christine Bayles Kortsch asks us to shift our understanding of late Victorian literary culture by examining its inextricable relationship with the material culture of dress and sewing. Even as the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891 extended the privilege of print literacy to greater numbers of the populace, stitching samplers continued to be a way of acculturating girls in both print literacy and what Kortsch terms "dress culture." Kortsch explores nineteenth-century women's education, sewing and needlework, mainstream fashion, alternative dress movements, working-class labor in the textile industry, and forms of social activism, showing how dual literacy in dress and print cultures linked women writers with their readers. Focusing on Victorian novels written between 1870 and 1900, Kortsch examines fiction by writers such as Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Margaret Oliphant, Sarah Grand, and Gertrude Dix, with attention to influential predecessors like Elizabeth Gaskell, Charlotte Brontë, and George Eliot. Periodicals, with their juxtaposition of journalism, fiction, and articles on dress and sewing are particularly fertile sites for exploring the close linkages between print and dress cultures. Informed by her examinations of costume collections in British and American museums, Kortsch's book broadens our view of New Woman fiction and its relationship both to dress culture and to contemporary women's fiction.

Download or read book Fashion and Material Culture in Victorian Fiction and Periodicals written by Janine Hatter and published by New Paths in Victorian Literature and Culture. This book was released on 2019 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This attractively illustrated new collaborative work examines dress, style and performance as a significant pleasure of fiction. It illuminates many significant factors of Victorian life. The book examines the ways in which Victorian writers, illustrators, periodicals, designers and clothing manufacturers have critiqued the social ideologies inherent in dress, fashion and imaginative engagement with clothes. This is the first volume in the New Paths in Victorian Popular Fiction and Culture series being published by EER. The series comprises specially commissioned work based on innovative or under-researched perspectives on Victorian literature and culture. As an aesthetic medium, fashion expresses a person's life course, their ideas, desires and beliefs, and fiction itself is a site where these issues can be resolved. Not only were fictional characters made recognisable through their dress, but readers of serial fiction encountered them in between adverts, cartoons, print and patterns. Thus, how dress is depicted in fiction responds to its material paratext. Victorian dress and literature equally licensed or discouraged particular forms of clothing, fantasies and moralities about men and women, as well as distinctions between generations. As a result, this volume's multidisciplinary approach engages with theoretical perspectives on dress history, periodical publications, archives and dress. The book is shaped in four distinct sections. Writers engage with fashion and material culture using an interdisciplinary methodology, as well as through fashion's multiple performances as depicted in text, image and design. Part 1, 'Fashion and Hierarchies of Knowledge' examines how periodicals, journalism and couture established 'fashion' as a discipline. Part 2's 'Artistic Engagement with Fashion's Material Culture' focuses on how fabric, printed patterns and illustrations critique social constructions of beauty and femininity. Part 3, 'Conduct and Clothing', considers novelistic depictions of fashion with regard to scientific, racial and gender identities. These are cross-related to reader consumption and behaviour. Part 4, 'Consumption and Fashionable Performance', examines periodicals, genres and drama as performative in their own right.

Download or read book Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction written by Danielle Mariann Dove and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2023-10-19 with total page 211 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction is the first full-length study to investigate and attend to the deeply suggestive and highly symbolic iterations of Victorian women's dress in the contemporary cultural imagination. Drawing upon a range of popular and less well-studied neo-Victorian novels published between 1990 and 2014, as well as their Victorian counterparts, 19th-century illustrative material, and extant Victorian garments, Danielle Dove explores the creative possibilities afforded by dress and fashion as gendered sites of agency and affect. Focusing on the relationship between texts and textiles, she demonstrates how dress is central to the narrativization, re-formulation, and re-fashioning of the material past in the present. In its examination of the narrative trajectories, lively vitalities, and material entanglements that accrue to, and originate from, dress in the neo-Victorian novel, this study brings a fresh approach to reading Victorian sartorial culture. For researchers and students of Victorian and neo-Victorian studies, dress history, material culture, and gender studies, this volume offers a rich resource with which to illuminate the power of fashion in fiction.

Download or read book Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction written by Danielle Mariann Dove and published by . This book was released on 2023 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction is the first full-length study to investigate and attend to the deeply suggestive and highly symbolic iterations of Victorian women's dress in the contemporary cultural imagination. Drawing upon a range of popular and less well-studied neo-Victorian novels published between 1990 and 2014, as well as their Victorian counterparts, 19th-century illustrative material, and extant Victorian garments, Danielle Dove explores the creative possibilities afforded by dress and fashion as gendered sites of agency and affect. Focusing on the relationship between texts and textiles, she demonstrates how dress is central to the narrativization, re-formulation, and re-fashioning of the material past in the present. In its examination of the narrative trajectories, lively vitalities, and material entanglements that accrue to, and originate from, dress in the neo-Victorian novel, this study brings a fresh approach to reading Victorian sartorial culture. For researchers and students of Victorian and neo-Victorian studies, dress history, material culture, and gender studies, this volume offers a rich resource with which to illuminate the power of fashion in fiction.

Download or read book The Palgrave Encyclopedia of Victorian Women s Writing written by Lesa Scholl and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on 2022-12-15 with total page 1753 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Since the late twentieth century, there has been a strategic campaign to recover the impact of Victorian women writers in the field of English literature. However, with the increased understanding of the importance of interdisciplinarity in the twenty-first century, there is a need to extend this campaign beyond literary studies in order to recognise the role of women writers across the nineteenth century, a time that was intrinsically interdisciplinary in approach to scholarly writing and public intellectual engagement.

Download or read book Dress and Identity in British Literary Culture 1870 1914 written by Rosy Aindow and published by Ashgate Publishing, Ltd.. This book was released on 2010 with total page 192 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Rosy Aindow's interdisciplinary study maps the literary response to the emergence of a modern fashion industry in late nineteenth- and early-twentieth-century Britain. The study argues dress is given a distinctive voice in novels of the period; works that embrace older sartorial tropes, but which simultaneously shape and formulate their own reflecting contemporary social concerns.

Download or read book Lady Helena Investigates written by Jane Steen and published by Aspidistra Press. This book was released on 2018-03-14 with total page 364 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A reluctant lady sleuth finds she's investigating her own family. 1881, Sussex. With a drowned husband—the second love lost—an overbearing family, no longed-for child, and the responsibility of a huge baroque mansion, it's not surprising Lady Helena Whitcombe is overwhelmed. When attractive, mysterious, French physician Armand Fortier disturbs her first weeks of mourning with his theory of murder, Helena's reluctant and ineffective attempts at investigation are hardly life-changing—until the resulting revival in her long-abandoned herbalist studies bring her into confrontation with her past and her family's. Can Lady Helena survive bereavement the second time around? Can she stand up to her six siblings' assumption of the right to control her new life as a widow? And what role will Fortier—who, as a physician, is a most unsuitable companion for an earl's daughter—play in her investigations? Every family has its secrets. The Scott-De Quincy family has more than most.

Download or read book Fashion and Authorship written by Gerald Egan and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on 2020-02-13 with total page 352 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Studies of fashion and literature in recent decades have focused primarily on representations of clothing and dress within literary texts. But what about the author? How did he dress? What where her shopping practices and predilections? What were his alliances with modishness, stylishness, fashion? The essays in this book explore these and other questions as they look at authors from the eighteenth century through the postmodern and digital eras, cultural producers who were also men and women of fashion: Alexander Pope, Hester Thrale, Mary Robinson, Lord Byron, William Thackeray, Charlotte Bronte, Wilkie Collins, Margaret Oliphant, Virginia Woolf, Rebecca West, Trudi Kanter, Angela Carter, and Martin Margiela. The essays collected here ultimately converge upon a fundamental question: what happens to our notions of timeless literature when authorship itself is implicated in the transient and the temporary, the cycles and materials of fashion? “Gerald Egan’s provocative introduction to this exciting new book poses a bold question: How are authorship and literature – so often linked to ideas of transcendence – implicated in the transient trends and stuff of fashion? The thirteen chapters that follow track authorship’s complex implication in the discourses and materiality of fashion and fashionable goods from the eighteenth to the twentieth centuries. Wide-ranging in discipline and chronology, yet forensically focused and carefully argued, this book makes a striking and wonderfully original contribution to studies of authorship, celebrity and material culture.” — Dr Jennie Batchelor, Professor of Eighteenth-Century Studies,University of Kent, UK

Download or read book Dress and Identity in British Literary Culture 1870 1914 written by Rosy Aindow and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2016-12-05 with total page 182 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Rosy Aindow examines the way fiction registered and responded to the emergence of a modern fashion industry during the period 1870-1914. She traces the role played by dress in the formation of literary identities, with specific attention to the way that an engagement with fashionable clothing was understood to be a means of class emulation. The expansion of the fashion industry in the second half of the nineteenth century is generally considered to have had a significant impact on the way in which lower income groups, in particular, encountered clothing: many were able to participate in fashionable consumption for the first time. Remaining alert to the historical specificity of these events, this study argues that the cultural perception of the expansion of the industry - namely a predominantly bourgeois fear that it would result in a democratisation in dress - had a profound effect on the way in which fashion was approached by contemporary writers. Drawing on existing cultural analogies that associated fashion with women and artifice, it concludes that women were particularly implicated in fictional accounts of class mobility. This transgression applied not only to women who wore fashionable clothing, but to those working in the fashion industry itself. An allusion to fashion has a socio-specific meaning, one which gained a new potency in late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century narratives as a vehicle for the expression of class anxieties.

Download or read book The Image Breakers written by Gertrude Dix and published by . This book was released on 1900 with total page 408 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Women s Handiwork written by Christine Bayles Kortsch and published by . This book was released on 2006 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Throughout the Victorian period, British women of all classes were expected to know how to 'work'---that is, to sew, knit, embroider, or do needlework of some kind. With the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891, the privilege of instruction in print literary was extended to more and more of the populace. Despite the changes this legislation initiated, Victorian women of all classes continued to receive instruction in dress culture, what I define as the interrelated skills of constructing and interpreting clothing. How they experienced the acts of sewing and reading clothing, not to mention what kind of sewing they did, varied widely, but all Victorian women were presumed to demonstrate some level of literacy in both print and dress culture. This dual literacy, I argue, created modes of communication that linked women writers and their readers in an imagined community. At the fin de siècle, however, the definition of 'women's work' was under intense scrutiny. New Woman novelists, in particular, struggled to broaden women's opportunities in the public sphere and to modify the domestic, realistic novel. Given these radical aims, it seems probable that the traditionally private, unpaid, domestic labor of dress culture would have provided little inspiration. This study aims to prove that, on the contrary, dress culture offered New Woman writers a richly textured language for addressing an imagined community of female readers. Anticipating, and indeed relying on, women's dual literary, these writers used that literacy to expose, complicate, and redefine women's class differences, social activism, and literary tradition, as well as the limits of imagined community itself. Women's Handiwork considers the material history of Victorian women's dress culture along with fiction by Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Sarah Grand, Gertrude Dix, and Margaret Oliphant. Rather than rejecting women's dress culture as tedious drudgery or brainless frippery, the late-Victorian writers I consider instead used dual literacy to valorize women's dress culture as an artistic, nurturing, and community-building activity closely tied to the work of literary composition.

Download or read book Savage Girl written by Jean Zimmerman and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2014-03-06 with total page 406 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “An over-the-top romp through 1870s America . . . compulsively readable.” —Oprah.com Jean Zimmerman’s spectacular follow-up to The Orphanmaster has it all: Gilded Age romance, robber baron excess, detective story suspense, and a compelling female protagonist whom readers will fall in love with. In 1875, the Delegates, an outlandishly wealthy Manhattan couple on a tour of the American West, seek out a sideshow attraction called “Savage Girl.” Her handlers avow that the wild, seemingly mute Bronwyn has been raised by wolves. Presented with the perfect blank slate to explore the power of civilized nurture, the Delegates take her back east to be introduced into high society. Cleaned up, Bronwyn is blazingly smart and darkly beautiful; as she takes steps toward her grand debut, a series of suitors find her irresistible—and begin to turn up murdered.

Download or read book The Significance of Fabrics in the Writings of Elizabeth Gaskell written by Amanda Ford and published by Taylor & Francis. This book was released on 2022-12-30 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Elizabeth Gaskell’s writings abound in references to a cultural materiality encompassing different types of fabric, stuffs, calicoes, chintzes and fine-point lace. These are not merely the motifs of the Realist genre but reveal a complex polysemy. Utilizing a metonymic examination of these tropes, this volume exposes the dramatic structural and socio-economic upheaval generated by industrialization, urbanization and the widening sphere of empire. The material evidence testifies to the technological and production innovations evolving diachronically for the period, and the evolution of Manchester as the industrial ‘Cottonpolis’ that clothed the world by the 1840s. This volume analyses Gaskell’s manipulation of the materiality, arguing its firm roots lie in the quotidian of women’s domestic and provincial life within the growing ranks of the middle classes. Exploring Gaskell’s tactile imagination, an embodied relationship with fabrics and sewing, a function of her daily life from an early age, this volume provides insight into the sensory aspects of cloth and its ability to stir affective responses, emotions and memories, whereby worn fabrics and even the absence of previous textile treasures, is poignant, recreating layers of recollection. This book aims to restore the pulsating, dynamic context of ordinary women’s dressed lives and presents innovative interpretations of Gaskell’s texts.

Download or read book Fashion and Narrative in Victorian Popular Literature written by Madeleine C. Seys and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2017-08-10 with total page 327 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: We know that way we dress says a lot about us. It’s drilled into us by our parents as children, as adults throughout our working lives, and eternally from the culture surrounding us. Our dress tells the outside world of the culture and era we come from to our social status within that culture. Our dress can be telling of our political views, religious beliefs, sexuality and countless other identifying traits that we can keep hidden or show to the world by our choice of what to wear when heading venturing out. This was absolutely true, famously so, in the Victorian Era in which men and women alike wore their status on their often lavish, embellished sleeves. In her new book, Dr. Madeleine Seyes explores Victorian culture through the lens of fashion in her new book, Double Threads: Fashion and Victorian Popular Literature, which sits at the intersection of the fields of Victorian literary studies, dress and material cultural studies, feminist literary criticism, and gender and sexuality studies.

Download or read book The Governess Was Wicked written by Julia Kelly and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2016-09-12 with total page 176 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This delightfully charming and saucy Regency era romance, is first in the Governess series in which three best friends are employed as governesses for different families, and all find themselves wanting something they can’t have. Elizabeth Porter is quite happy with her position as the governess for two sneaky-yet-sweet girls when she notices that they have a penchant for falling ill and needing the doctor. As the visits from the dashing and handsome Doctor Edward Fellows become more frequent, Elizabeth quickly sees through the lovesick girls’ ruse. Yet even Elizabeth can’t help but notice Edward’s bewitching bedside manner even as she tries to convince herself that someone of her station would not make a suitable wife for a doctor. But one little kiss won’t hurt...

Download or read book Fashioning the Nineteenth Century written by Cristina Giorcelli and published by U of Minnesota Press. This book was released on 2014-05-01 with total page 497 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In nineteenth-century Europe and the United States, fashion—once the province of the well-to-do—began to make its way across class lines. At once a democratizing influence and a means of maintaining distinctions, gaps in time remained between what the upper classes wore and what the lower classes later copied. And toward the end of the century, style also moved from the streets to the parlor. The third in a four-part series charting the social, cultural, and political expression of clothing, dress, and accessories, Fashioning the Nineteenth Century focuses on this transformative period in an effort to show how certain items of apparel acquired the status of fashion and how fashion shifted from the realm of the elites into the emerging middle and working classes—and back. The contributors to this volume are leading scholars from France, Italy, and the United States, as well as a practicing psychoanalyst and artists working in fashion and with textiles. Whether considering girls’ school uniforms in provincial Italy, widows’ mourning caps in Victorian novels, Charlie’s varying dress in Kate Chopin’s eponymous story, or the language of clothing in Henry James, the essays reveal how changes in ideals of the body and its adornment, in classes and nations, created what we now understand to be the imperatives of fashion. Contributors: Dagni Bredesen, Eastern Illinois U; Carmela Covato, U of Rome Three; Agnès Derail-Imbert, École Normale Supérieure/VALE U of Paris, Sorbonne; Clair Hughes, International Christian University of Tokyo; Bianca Iaccarino Idelson; Beryl Korot; Anna Masotti; Bruno Monfort, Université of Paris, Ouest Nanterre La Défense; Giuseppe Nori, U of Macerata, Italy; Marta Savini, U of Rome Three; Anna Scacchi, U of Padua; Carroll Smith-Rosenberg, U of Michigan.

Download or read book Dressing for England written by Amy Louise Montz and published by . This book was released on 2010 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Victorian women were not merely the symbols of nation nineteenth-century imagery would suggest in an era marked by the images of Queen Victoria and the symbolic representation of Britannia. They also were producers, maintainers, and even protectors of England at a time when imperial anxiety and xenophobic fears called the definition of Englishness into question. Dress, particularly fashionable dress, often was viewed as a feminine weakness in Victorian England. At the same time women were chastised for their attentions to the details of their clothing, they also were instructed to offer a pretty and neat presentation publicly and privately. Novels by George Eliot, Elizabeth Gaskell, William Thackeray, and H.G. Wells and manners and conduct texts by such authors as Sarah Stickney Ellis, Eliza Lynn Linton, and Margaret Oliphant demonstrate how Victorian women used fashion and dress to redefine and manipulate the socially accepted understanding of traditional English womanhood and to communicate national ideologies and concerns without violating or transgressing completely the more passive construction of Victorian femininity. By declaring their nationality through the public display that is fashion--dress designated by its appeal to a sophisticated, cultured, and perhaps continental society--these fictional and non-fictional women legitimized the demand for female access to social and cultural spheres as well as to the political sphere. Through an examination of the material culture of Victorian England--personal letters about the role of specific dress in Suffragette demonstrations, or the Indian shawl, for example--alongside an examination of the literary texts of the period, "Dressing for England" argues that the novels of the nineteenth century and that century's ephemera reveal its social concerns, its political crises, and the fabric of its everyday domesticity at the same time they reveal the active and intimate participation of Victorian women in the establishment and maintenance of nation.