Download or read book Wind Sea and Swell written by Harald Ulrik Sverdrup and published by . This book was released on 1947 with total page 44 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Swell written by Evan Slater and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2012-05-09 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.
Download or read book The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind written by Peter Janssen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-10-28 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Download or read book The Natural Navigator written by Tristan Gooley and published by The Experiment. This book was released on 2012-06-05 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the New York Times-bestselling author of The Secret World of Weather and The Lost Art of Reading Nature’s Signs, learn to tap into nature and notice the hidden clues all around you Before GPS, before the compass, and even before cartography, humankind was navigating. Now this singular guide helps us rediscover what our ancestors long understood—that a windswept tree, the depth of a puddle, or a trill of birdsong can help us find our way, if we know what to look and listen for. Adventurer and navigation expert Tristan Gooley unlocks the directional clues hidden in the sun, moon, stars, clouds, weather patterns, lengthening shadows, changing tides, plant growth, and the habits of wildlife. Rich with navigational anecdotes collected across ages, continents, and cultures, The Natural Navigator will help keep you on course and open your eyes to the wonders, large and small, of the natural world.
Download or read book Wind Sea and Swell written by Harald Ulrik Sverdrup and published by . This book was released on 1952 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wind Generated Ocean Waves written by I.R. Young and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 1999-03-23 with total page 307 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably.This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Download or read book Swell written by Liz Clark and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2018-04 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sailing Ten Years and 20,000 Miles In Search of Surf and Self
Download or read book Wind Stress Over the Ocean written by Ian S. F. Jones and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2001-09-24 with total page 277 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A comprehensive 2001 volume for researchers and graduate students in oceanography, meteorology, fluid dynamics and coastal engineering.
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Download or read book Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean Waves written by G. J. Komen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 1994-09-15 with total page 554 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book addresses both fundamental and applied aspects of ocean waves including the use of wave observations made from satellites. More specifically it describes the WAM model, its scientific basis, its actual implementation, and its many applications. The three sections of the volume describe the basic statistical theory and the relevant physical processes; the numerical model and its global and regional applications; and satellite observations, their interpretation and use in data assimilation.
Download or read book Ocean Wave Climate written by M. D. Earle and published by Springer. This book was released on 2012-11-25 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves critically affect man in coastal regions, including the open coasts and adjacent continental shelves. Preventing beach erosion, designing and building structures, designing and operating ships, providing marine forecasts, and coastal planning are but a few examples of projects for which extensive information about wave conditions is critical. Scientific studies, especially those in volving coastal processes and the development of better wave prediction models, also require wave condition information. How ever, wave conditions along and off the coasts of the United States have not been adequately determined. The main categories of available wave data are visual estimates of wave conditions made from ships at sea, scientific measurements of waves made for short time periods at specific locations, and a small number of long-term measurements made from piers or offshore platforms. With these considerations in mind, the National Ocean Survey of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration sponsored the Ocean Wave Climate Symposium at Herndon, Virginia, July 12-14, 1977. This volume contains papers presented at this symposium. A goal of the symposium was to establish the foundations for a com prehensive and far-sighted wave measurement and analysis program to fully describe the coastal wave climate of the United States. Emphasis was placed on ocean engineering and scientific uses of wave data, existing wave monitoring programs, and modern measure ment techniques which may provide currently needed data.
Download or read book Surf Science written by Tony Butt and published by Alison Hodge Publishers. This book was released on 2014-03-25 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don’t need a scientific background to read it – just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
Download or read book Encyclopedia of Coastal Science written by M. Schwartz and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2006-11-08 with total page 1243 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.
Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Willard Bascom and published by Anchor. This book was released on 1980 with total page 528 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Satellites Oceanography and Society written by D. Halpern and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2000-06-06 with total page 381 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The book shows how the new observations from satellites required advances in theory and influenced societal decision-making. Chapters have a review with an extensive reference list, making the book an excellent source of information for biological and physical oceanographers and atmospheric scientists.A large range of state-of-the art applications of satellite data (altimeter, color, infrared radiometer, scatterometer, synthetic aperture radar) visible in regional-to-global scale ocean studies integrating satellite and in-situ measurements with circulation models are covered in the book. Subjects include forecasting of surface waves, both swell and windsea, and surface wind; El Niño/La Niña; exchange of water masses between ocean basins, Rossby waves; eddies and filaments; fisheries; coastal ocean dynamics; phytoplankton dynamics; and ideas to measure sea surface salinity.
Download or read book Waves in Ocean Engineering written by M.J. Tucker and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page 556 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Waves in Ocean Engineering" covers the whole field of wave studies of interest to applied oceanographers and ocean engineers. It has considerable relevance to coastal engineering. The book is split into 12 sections, the first of which is devoted to the practical applications of wave studies and to the history of wave research. The rest of the book covers the measurement of waves, including remote sensing; the analysis and interpretation of wave data; estimating the properties of the extreme "Design Wave", as well as of the generality of waves for fatigue calculations; waves in finite depth, wave generation by wind and wave forecasting models; non-linear effects, and errors and uncertainties in wave data.
Download or read book A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea written by Willard Bascom and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page 426 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
