Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996 with total page 514 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Willard Bascom and published by Anchor. This book was released on 1980 with total page 528 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea written by Willard Bascom and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page 426 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves written by Alexander Babanin and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2011-05-19 with total page 479 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Download or read book The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind written by Peter Janssen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-10-28 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Download or read book PIV and Water Waves written by John Grue and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2004 with total page 356 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: - State-of-the-art overview of PIV applied to water waves - Invited articles, in carefully chosen fields, providing profound insight into the role of PIV in important applications - Updated overviews of the PIV method that will benefit newcomers to the field
Download or read book Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems written by Johannes Falnes and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2020-05-28 with total page 319 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.
Download or read book Swell written by Evan Slater and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2012-05-09 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.
Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Kim McCoy and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2021-03-16 with total page 400 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Bestselling Classic Updated for Surfers, Sailors, Oceanographers, Climate Activists, and Those Who Love the Sea First published in 1963 and updated in 1979, this classic was an essential handbook for anyone who studies, surfs, protects, or is fascinated by the ocean. The original author, Willard Bascom, was a master of the subject and included a wealth of information, based on theory and statistics, but also anecdotal observation and personal experience. It brought to the general public understanding of the awesome and complex power of the waves. This revision from Kim McCoy adds recent facts and anecdotes to update the book's relevance in the time of climate change. One of the most significant effects of global warming will be sea-level rise. What will this mean to waves and beaches, and what effects are we already seeing? New text and photos cover events such as the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004, Hurricane Katrina flooding of 2005, and the 2011 earthquake and resulting devastation in Fukishima. As well as students, surfers, and the general public, this updated edition of a beloved classic is an essential handbook for climate scientists and ocean activists, providing clear explanations and detailed resources for the constant battle to preserve the shore.
Download or read book Tides and the Ocean written by William Thomson and published by Black Dog & Leventhal. This book was released on 2018-05-15 with total page 329 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfers, sailors, and anyone who loves the ocean will enjoy this visual exploration of the world's seas along its shores, including rip tides, swells, waves, and tsunamis. Tide is the vertical motion of water, something so subtle it is impossible to see with the naked eye. Inspired by his travels around the world's coastline in a camper van with his young family, William Thomson captures the cycles of the sea's movement, and intersperses his adventures surfing the waves and charting the tides. Throughout Tides and the Ocean are his graphic renderings of unusual tidal maps, as well as other forms of water movement, including rip, rapids, swell, stream, tide, wave, whirlpool, and tsunami. Tides and the Ocean explains how the tides surge when the moon and sun align with the earth; how ocean streams alternate direction every six hours (which is invaluable information for kayakers, paddle boarders, and fishermen); why skyscraper-sized tsunamis occur frequently in an Alaskan Bay; and the most deadly beach orientation for rip currents. Also emphasized throughout is the importance of keeping the world's oceans healthy and full of life. Published in time for beach travel, this large-format hardcover is ideal for anyone who knows and loves the sea, and who wants to understand, discover, surf, or sail it better.
Download or read book Wind Waves in Oceans written by Igor Lavrenov and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2003-02-27 with total page 394 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.
Download or read book Annie and the Waves written by Louise Lambeth and published by Publicious Pty Limited. This book was released on 2020-02-03 with total page 42 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Annie and the Waves is a book aimed to teach children and their caregivers about how to stay safe at the beach. As you read this book you will learn: Surf lifesavers wear red and yellow You should always swim between the red and yellow flags Some beaches are safer than others There are different kinds of waves, some are safer than others If you get into trouble, stay calm and raise your hand to show the surf lifesavers you need help. Be sun safe at the beach. Wear a hat and a rashie and don't forget to put on sunscreen before you go out in the sun And..... You should never go into the water alone!
Download or read book Ocean Waves for All written by Stacy McAnulty and published by Henry Holt and Company (BYR). This book was released on 2020-05-05 with total page 21 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From writer Stacy McAnulty and illustrator David Litchfield, Ocean! Waves for All is a light-hearted nonfiction picture book about the formation and history of the ocean, told from the perspective of the ocean itself. Dude. Ocean is incredible. Atlantic, Pacific, Artic, Indian, Southern—it's all excellent Ocean! Not part of any nation, his waves are for all. And under those waves, man, he holds so many secrets. With characteristic humor and charm, Stacy McAnulty channels the voice of Ocean in this next "autobiography" in the Our Universe series. Rich with kid-friendly facts and beautifully brought to life by David Litchfield, this is an equally charming and irresistible companion to Earth! My First 4.54 Billion Years; Sun! One in a Billion; and Moon! Earth's Best Friend.
Download or read book Water Waves and Ship Hydrodynamics written by R. Timman and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-03-09 with total page 151 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the spring of 1971, Reinier Tirnrnan visited the University of Delaware during which time he gave a series of lectures on water waves from which these notes grew. Those of us privi leged to be present during that time will never forget the experience. Rein Tirnrnan is not easily forgotten. His seemingly inexhaustible energy completely overwhelmed us. Who could forget the numbing effect of a succession of long wine filled evenings of lively conversation on literature, politics, education, you name it, followed early the next day by the appearance of the apparently totally refreshed red haired giant eager to discuss our mathematical problems with keen insight en remarkable understanding, ready to lecture on fluid mechanics or optimal control theory or a host of other subjects and ready to work into the evening until the cycle repeated. He thought faster, he knew more, he drank more and he slept less than any of us mortals and he literally wore us out. What a rare privilege indeed to have participated in this intellectual orgy. Tirnrnan's lively interest in almost every thing coupled with his buoyant enthusiasm and infectious op timism epitomized his approach to life. No delicate nibbling at the fringes, he wanted every morsel of every course. In these times of narrow specialization truly renaissance figures are, if not extinct, at least a highly endangered species. But Tirnrnan was one of that rare breed.
Download or read book Waves Tides and Shallow water Processes written by Open University. Oceanography Course Team and published by Pergamon. This book was released on 1989 with total page 196 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is the fourth Volume of the six Volume Open University set. Each Volume is used by students as a relevant part of the Open University course in the UK, but designed so that it can equally be used as an individual text book. This Volume describes waves, their measurement and characteristics, their behaviour in shallow water and unusual waves. It also considers mainly theoretical aspects of sediment movement and deposition of currents, wave estuaries, and the interaction of waves, tides and river flow in deltas. Concludes with a look at shelf-sea processes and their mineral resources. Each Volume in this set is well laid out and copiously illustrated with full colour photographs, graphs and graphics. Questions to help develop arguments and/or understanding can be found in the text and at the end of each chapter, with worked answers provided at the back of each Volume. Each chapter also concludes with a summary to help consolidate understanding before the next chapter is begun.
Download or read book Rogue Waves in the Ocean written by Christian Kharif and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2008-12-11 with total page 222 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “It came from nowhere, snapping giant ships in two. No one believed the survivors . . . until now” —New Scientist magazine cover, June 30, 2001 Rogue waves are the focus of this book. They are among the waves naturally - served by people on the sea surface that represent an inseparable feature of the Ocean. Rogue waves appear from nowhere, cause danger, and disappear at once. They may occur on the surface of a relatively calm sea and not reach very high amplitudes, but still be fatal for ships and crew due to their unexpectedness and abnormal features. Seamen are known to be unsurpassed authors of exciting and horrifying stories about the sea and sea waves. This could explain why, despite the increasing number of documented cases, that sailors’ observations of “walls of - ter” have been considered ctitious for a while. These stories are now addressed again due to the amount of doubtless evidence of the existence of the phenomenon, but still without suf cient information to - able interested researchers and engineers to completely understand it. The billows appear suddenly, exceeding the surrounding waves by two times their size and more, and obtaining many names: abnormal, exceptional, extreme, giant, huge, s- den, episodic, freak, monster, rogue, vicious, killer, mad- or rabid-dog waves, cape rollers, holes in the sea, walls of water, three sisters, etc.
