Download or read book The Prediction of Longshore Currents written by John A. Putnam and published by . This book was released on 1949 with total page 12 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Compilation of Longshore Current Data written by Cyril Jerome Galvin and published by . This book was released on 1967 with total page 32 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Longshore Current Velocity written by Cyril Jerome Galvin and published by . This book was released on 1967 with total page 18 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Topics in Longshore Currents written by John Casey Church and published by . This book was released on 1993 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The momentum equation governing mean longshore currents on straight beaches is a balance of forcing from the momentum transfer of the oscillatory wave motion, turbulent momentum transfer (mixing), and bottom stress. Of these, the wave's contribution is well understood, but the remaining two are not, principally due to the complicated hydrodynamics of the surf-zone. Addressing the bottom stress term, a longshore current model is developed which includes a modification of the bottom stress due to the effects of breaking-wave induced turbulence. A one-dimensional turbulent kinetic energy equation is used to model this breaking-wave induced turbulence, producing a spatially varying bottom friction coefficient. The modeled longshore current cross-shore profiles show improved agreement with field observations. In a second bottom stress study, vertical profiles of mean longshore currents are examined using field data obtained with vertically stacked electromagnetic current meters with the goal of measuring the bottom stress and its associated drag coefficient. The profiles are observed to become vertically uniform whenever the ratio of wave height to depth exceeds 0.3, indicating that nearly all of the waves passing a given location are breaking. Finally, horizontal turbulent momentum transfer (mixing) is examined for the case of shear instabilities of the longshore current.
Download or read book Surf Observations and Longshore Current Prediction written by James H. Balsillie and published by . This book was released on 1975 with total page 48 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Experimental Study of Longshore Currents on a Plane Beach written by Cyril Jerome Galvin and published by . This book was released on 1965 with total page 96 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Technical Memorandum U S Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center written by Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1975 with total page 1082 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Longshore Current Observations in Southern California written by United States. Beach Erosion Board and published by . This book was released on 1950 with total page 60 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book A Simple Quasi three Dimensional Model of Longshore Currents Over Arbitrary Profile written by Antonio Fernando Garcez Faria and published by . This book was released on 1995 with total page 52 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The long shore current maximum observed in the trough of a barred beach during the nearshore dynamics experiment DELILAH at Duck, North Carolina, is not predicted by present theory. The simplest longshore curren models balance cross-shore changes in the alongshore wave momentum (radiation stress) with the alongshore bottom shear stress. Waves break over the bar, reform in the trough and again break on the foreshore resulting in changes in the radiation stress, which predicts two jets, one over the bar and the other at the foreshore, which does not agree with the observed current maximum in the trough. The advection of the momentum of the longshore current by mean cross-shore currents as a source of momentum mixing is investigated. The longshore current is strongest toward the surface and decreasing to zero at the bottom. The cross-shore mean current has an onshore transport in the wave crest/trough region and an offshore transport beneath (undertow). The net interaction can induce significant lateral mixing of the alongshore momentum of the mean currents, which is shown using a simplified three- dimension model of nearshore currents to explain much of the differences with observations.
Download or read book Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering written by Philip L. F. Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1999 with total page 346 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.
Download or read book Encyclopedia of Coastal Science written by M. Schwartz and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2006-11-08 with total page 1243 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.
Download or read book Advances In Coastal And Ocean Engineering Vol 3 written by Philip L-f Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1997-02-20 with total page 228 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This review volume, the third in the series, presents the latest topics for discussion, which provides invaluable information to coastal and ocean engineers around the world. In the first paper of this volume, entitled “Internal Solitary Waves”, Grimshaw reviews the basic theory of weakly nonlinear waves in an incompressible density-stratified fluid. The internal solitary waves solutions and effects such as friction, refraction and finite amplitude on internal solitary waves are also discussed. In the second paper entitled “The 3/2-Power Law for Ocean Wind Waves and Its Applications”, Toba gives a thorough review on the field evidence and physical background of the 3/2-power law and the associated wind-wave energy spectra. Several wind-wave prediction models are also discussed. Goda, in his paper entitled “Directional Wave Spectrum and Its Engineering Applications”, gives a brief historical overview of the development of directional wave spectrum. He presents several standard formulas for directional spreading function for engineering applications and discusses the effects of directional spreading on nearshore currents and wave forces on coastal structures. In a companion paper entitled “Analysis of the Directional Wave Spectrum from Field Data”, Hashimoto describes the maximum entropy principle method, Bayesian directional spectrum estimation method and the extended maximum entropy method for estimating directional wave spectrum. Hashimoto also introduces a new developed Doppler-type directional wave meter for field measurements. Finally, in “Reliability-Based Design of Coastal Structures”, Barcharth introduces a design procedure that makes it possible to optimize a design and/or to design to a specific failure probability level.
Download or read book Coastal Currents Along the Pacific Coast of the United States written by U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey and published by . This book was released on 1926 with total page 88 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology written by R. Davidson-Arnott and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010 with total page 457 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A complete guide to coastal processes and their related features for undergraduate students.
Download or read book Miscellaneous Report written by Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1976 with total page 508 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Advances In Coastal And Ocean Engineering Vol 2 written by Philip L-f Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996-07-03 with total page 290 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This volume contains six papers discussing coastal processes, and physical and numerical modeling.In the first paper, Svendsen and Putrevu give an extensive review on the state of understanding of surf-zone hydrodynamics, including subjects such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and instability of nearshore currents and infragravity waves. They point out that the most urgent need is to develop an adequate theory for wave breaking and broken waves in the surf zone.One of the methods for studying the complex coastal processes is to perform laboratory experiments. However, physical models are always plagued by scale and laboratory effects, because the coastal process involves many different length and time scales. In the second paper, Kamphuis presents a detailed discussion on the sources and implications of the scale and laboratory effects on physical modeling.The third and the fourth papers are two parts of the discussion on the mathematical modeling of the meso-tidal barrier island coasts. To understand the dynamics of coastal inlet systems, one can either rely on empirical knowledge and construct various forms of empirical and semi-empirical models (Part I), or develop a set of mathematical models based on the physical processes (Part II). Although these models do not provide the details of the dynamics, they give valuable knowledge of the equilibrium-state relationships. de Vriend and Ribberink give a detailed review on two models, Initial Sedimentation/Erosion models and Medium-Term Morphodynamic models. They have also presented many examples of applications.In the fifth paper, Houston gives a brief review on different methods to mitigate beach loss caused by storms or persistent long-term erosion. He then describes, in detail, the method of beach nourishment, which is also called a beach fill. This paper discusses the information that must be collected to design a beach fill and that should be monitored after the completion of the project.The last paper of this volume shifts our attention to the design of offshore structures, such as gravity structures, floating barges and tankers. Chakrabarti discusses the effects of the uniform and shear currents on fixed and floating structures.
Download or read book Miscellaneous Report Coastal Engineering Research Center written by Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1976 with total page 754 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
