Download or read book Observed Directional Spectra of Shoaling and Breaking Waves written by Matthew I. Borbash and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The evolution of the frequency-directional wave spectrum, E(f, theta), across the inner continental shelf and beach was examined with measurements collected at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineer's Field Research Facility during the recent SandyDuck experiment. Arrays of bottom pressure sensors were deployed on the shelf in 20 m depth and on the beach in depths ranging from 2 - 5 m. These arrays were complemented by a directional wave buoy in 20 m depth and an array of pressure sensors in 8 m depth maintained by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. A preliminary analysis of these data is presented here focused on four case studies that illustrate the observed wave shoaling evolution in both non-breaking and breaking conditions. Estimates of E(f, theta) extracted from array cross-spectra at six cross-shore locations are compared to predictions of linear refraction theory. The present observations support conclusions from previous studies that the cross-shore evolution of dominant wave propagation direction is well described by linear refraction theory. Observations of harmonic peak development at directions aligned with the dominant waves are consistent with theoretical wave-wave interaction rules and previous observations. In both non-breaking and breaking conditions, the observed E(f, theta) are directionally broader than predicted. In contrast to previous observations on a barred beach, the present observations on a planar beach do not show a dramatic broadening of directional wave spectra in the surf zone.
Download or read book The Effect of Breaking Waves on the Directional Spectrum of Waves in Water of Variable Depth in the Presence of Current written by C. C. Tung and published by . This book was released on 1989 with total page 90 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Validation of a Stochastic Boussinesq Model for Wave Wave Spectra Transformation in the Surf Zone written by Marianie O. Balolong and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page 55 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This thesis presents a field validation of a stochastic, nonlinear wave shoaling model based on a third-order closure Boussinesq equations (Herbers and Burton, 1997). The model predicts the evolution of directionally spread waves propagating over an alongshore uniform beach. The model consists of a coupled set of evolution equations for the wave spectrum and bispectrum that incorporates linear shoaling and refraction effects and nonlinear energy exchanges in near-resonant triad interactions. Dissipation due to breaking is approximated using an empirical quasi-linear damping function and a relaxation to Gaussian statistics. The model was verified with field data from five alongshore instrument arrays deployed near Duck, North Carolina from August to December 1997 as part of the SandyDuck experiment. The predicted shoaling evolution of the frequency-directional wave spectra shows the expected development of harmonic peaks through triad interactions. The predicted harmonic spectral levels and direction are in good agreement with the observed spectra, but the predicted directional spread is biased low inside the surf zone. The significant wave height predictions are generally in good agreement with observations. The model tends to overshoal the waves outside the surf zone and slightly overdissipate wave energy inside the surf zone. Infragravity wave growth, sea surface skewness and asymmetry are predicted fairly accurately by the model.
Download or read book Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis written by Orville T. Magoon and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page 1080 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Proceedings of the Second International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, held in New Orleans, Louisiana, July 25-28, 1993. Sponsored by the Waterways, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division of ASCE. This collection, which honors Professor Robert L. Wiegel, contains 79 papers that explore major advances in wave measurement and quantification of ocean and lake waves, including technical knowledge and applications on wave theory, characteristics, design and techniques. Papers are both national and international in scope and include practical examples and case histories. Topics include: wave transformation, data analysis and reliability, wave modeling, applications, long waves, extreme wave statistics, and other topics relating to wave research over the last two decades. This collection will serve as a primary reference to the latest information in the field of wave measurement and analysis for anyone working with coastal technology.
Download or read book Directional Ocean Wave Spectra written by Robert C. Beal and published by . This book was released on 1991 with total page 248 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Das Buch enthält insgesamt 33 Vorträge, die anlässlich des Symposiums "Measuring, Modeling, Predicting, and Applying Directional Ocean Wave Spectra" gehalten wurden, welches von 19890418 bis 19890420 am Applied Physics Laboratory der Johns Hopkins Universität stattfand. Das Symposium war den Ergebnissen des Labrador Sea Extreme Waves Experiment (LEWEX) gewidmet, welches mit internationaler Beteiligung unter Einsatz von zwei Schiffen, zwei Radar- Fernerkundungsflugzeugen sowie Radar-Fernerkundungssatelliten im März 1987 in der Labradorsee durchgeführt wurde. Ziel war die Bestimmung von richtungsbezogenen Meereswellenspektren. Nach zwei einführenden Vorträgen in das Experiment LEWEX sowie in die Bedeutung der Wellenspektren widmen sich die übrigen Fachbeiträge folgenden Themen: Physik von Wind und Wellen (Wind-Wave Physics); Seegangsverhalten und Messungen an der Meeresoberfläche (Seakeeping and Surface Measurement); Luftgestützte und weltraumgestützte Radarmessungen (Air and Space Measurement); Numerische Modellrechnungen (Numerical Model Estimates); Zukünftiger Forschungsbedarf (Future Directions). 300 der während LEWEX gemessenen 2000 Wellenspektren werden vorgestellt und verglichen.
Download or read book Validation of a Stochastic Boussinesq Model for Wave Spectra Transformation in the Surf Zone written by Marianie O. Balolong and published by . This book was released on 2001-03-01 with total page 69 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This thesis presents a field validation of a stochastic, nonlinear wave shoaling model based on a third-order closure Boussinesq equations (Herbers and Burton, 1997). The model predicts the evolution of directionally spread waves propagating over an alongshore uniform beach. The model consists of a coupled set of evolution equations for the wave spectrum and bispectrum that incorporates linear shoaling and refraction effects and nonlinear energy exchanges in near-resonant triad interactions. Dissipation due to breaking is approximated using an empirical quasi-linear damping function and a relaxation to Gaussian statistics. The model was verified with field data from five alongshore instrument arrays deployed near Duck, North Carolina from August to December 1997 as part of the SandyDuck experiment. The predicted shoaling evolution of the frequency-directional wave spectra shows the expected development of harmonic peaks through triad interactions. The predicted harmonic spectral levels and direction are in good agreement with the observed spectra, but the predicted directional spread is biased low inside the surf zone. The significant wave height predictions are generally in good agreement with observations. The model tends to overshoal the waves outside the surf zone and slightly overdissipate wave energy inside the surf zone. Infragravity wave growth, sea surface skewness and asymmetry are predicted fairly accurately by the model.
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Download or read book Comparison of Measured and Transformed Directional Wave Spectra Using Linear Refraction Model written by Mohammad Asmatullah Khalid and published by . This book was released on 1989 with total page 61 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Handbook of Ocean Wave Energy written by Arthur Pecher and published by Springer. This book was released on 2016-12-07 with total page 305 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is open access under a CC BY-NC 2.5 license. This book offers a concise, practice-oriented reference-guide to the field of ocean wave energy. The ten chapters highlight the key rules of thumb, address all the main technical engineering aspects and describe in detail all the key aspects to be considered in the techno-economic assessment of wave energy converters. Written in an easy-to-understand style, the book answers questions relevant to readers of different backgrounds, from developers, private and public investors, to students and researchers. It is thereby a valuable resource for both newcomers and experienced practitioners in the wave energy sector.
Download or read book Wave Spectra of a Shoaling Wave Field A Comparison of Experimental and Simulated Results written by and published by . This book was released on 1982 with total page 36 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2017-09-28 with total page 801 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
Download or read book Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves written by Alexander Babanin and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2011-05-19 with total page 479 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Download or read book Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves Using the Motions of a Floating Buoy Preprint of Paper Presented at written by M. S. Longuet-Higgins and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Determination of Directional Spectra of Sea Surface Wave Field by Scanning Observation written by Piotr Koziol and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 60 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The paper considers the possibility of determining the directional energy spectrum of ocean surface gravity waves from a set of one-dimensional spectra. The one-dimensional spectra are in Doppler shifted frequency domain and they are obtained from the signal given by towing a measuring device in different directions across a wave field. An attempt to solve the integral equation involved approximating it by a set of simultaneous linear algebraic equations led to a singular matrix. (Author).
Download or read book Practical Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics written by Willard J Pierson and published by . This book was released on 1955 with total page 312 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Advances In Coastal And Ocean Engineering Vol 5 written by Philip L-f Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1999-07-06 with total page 338 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.
Download or read book Observations of the Power and Directional Spectrum of Oceanic Surface Waves written by Lloyd Allen Regier and published by . This book was released on 1975 with total page 400 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
