Download or read book Measuring Shallow Water Waves with Pressure Sensors written by Vitor Manuel Henriques Goncalo and published by . This book was released on 1978 with total page 146 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For two locations within the surf zone sea surface elevations were observed using a wave staff and a pressure sensor while simultaneously the two horizontal orthogonal components, u and v, of water particle velocity were measured. Surface elevations derived from pressure sensors are lower, mainly in the region of the crest, compared with the same surface elevations measured with wave gages. Pressure records are more smoothed than wave gage records, and the energy computed for waves measured with a pressure sensor is consistently smaller than for waves measured with a wave gage. Methods for converting pressure to surface elevation are given which include the non-linear velocity term (u sq + v sq) which is usually neglected in the Bernoulli equation. Two techniques are proposed to include this term: (1) flowmeters are used to measure u and v, and (2) the Bernoulli term is derived by determining the velocities by convolving the pressure records using a weighting function determined from shallow water theory.
Download or read book Measuring Shallow Water Waves with Pressure Sensors written by and published by . This book was released on 1978 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Topographical Measurements of Water Waves at a Matrix of Measuring Points written by Peter Vennemann and published by diplom.de. This book was released on 2002-02-15 with total page 50 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Inhaltsangabe:Abstract: The measurement of the shape of a water wave is important for the study of a wide range of questions like the understanding of wave motions, the wave shapes dependence an the quality of the ground, the water depth or the surface tension which might be altered by pollution. The mixing of substances or gases at the surface of the sea is dependent an the waves shapes. The shape of a water wave is also interesting for understanding the transport mechanisms and the energy of waves. Knowledge about water wave shapes is essential for the design of an effective shore protection which is going to be more and more important when the sea level is rising. Furthermore offshore designers require knowledge about the shape of a wave during its interaction with installations for optimising the shape of offshore structures and for calculating the loading. This is a key requisite for the design and the construction of cost effective and save structures of any kind like buoys, lifeboats, ships, oil rigs or other offshore platforms. Measurements of wave shapes for example can help to understand the interference or upwelling caused by the legs of typical offffshore platform geometries which can enhance the wave amplitude and possible wave impact with the underside of the platform. The probably simplest way of measuring the surface of a wave is to put a certain number of water depth gauges into the water, taking a photo of the wave when it is passing the gauges and then reading every single measure from the photograph. The wave shape can be reconstructed by interpolating the waves surface between the measuring points. The considerable distortion of the measuring object by the measuring instruments is disadvantageous. An array of pressure sensors in a plain below the water surface can be used instead of the gauges to avoid the distortions. The pressure at every single sensor is a measure for the water height above the sensor. The disadvantage of this method is the sensitivity of the pressure sensors for the dynamic pressure of water flows caused by turbulences, in particular in shallow water, underneath breaking waves or close to constructions. Also disadvantageous is the necessity of mounting a part of the measuring system under the water. To avoid this problems, photographic methods for the recording of surface waves have been developed: At the beginning of the 20th century the first attempts have been made to collect elevation data of ocean [...]
Download or read book Propagation Speeds of Ocean Surface Waves in Shallow Water written by Nick A. Sarap and published by . This book was released on 1999 with total page 51 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Nonlinear effects on the dispersion relation of waves in shallow water are examined with measurements collected on a mild sloping sandy beach during the recent Sandy Duck experiment. Four arrays of bottom pressure sensors were deployed in depths ranging from 3 - 6 m during August-November, 1997. For each of these arrays, a root-mean-square average wavenumber was estimated as a function of frequency from the cross-spectra of one-hour-long pressure records. The observed wavenumbers are compared to linear finite depth theory predictions and to predictions based on a stochastic formulation of weakly nonlinear Boussinesq equations that incorporate both frequency and amplitude dispersion effects. The observed wavenumbers are generally in agreement with the nonlinear theory predictions and deviate significantly (maximum errors averaged over the spectrum of about 25%) from the linear theory predictions. In high energy conditions with breaking or nearly breaking waves, the effects of amplitude and frequency dispersion tend to cancel, and all components of the wave spectrum travel with approximately the shallow water wave speed. These results are consistent with previous studies.
Download or read book Propagation Speeds of Ocean Surface Waves in Shallow Water written by and published by . This book was released on 1999 with total page 51 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Nonlinear effects on the dispersion relation of waves in shallow water are examined with measurements collected on a mild sloping sandy beach during the recent Sandy Duck experiment. Four arrays of bottom pressure sensors were deployed in depths ranging from 3 - 6 m during August-November, 1997. For each of these arrays, a root-mean-square average wavenumber was estimated as a function of frequency from the cross-spectra of one-hour-long pressure records. The observed wavenumbers are compared to linear finite depth theory predictions and to predictions based on a stochastic formulation of weakly nonlinear Boussinesq equations that incorporate both frequency and amplitude dispersion effects. The observed wavenumbers are generally in agreement with the nonlinear theory predictions and deviate significantly (maximum errors averaged over the spectrum of about 25%) from the linear theory predictions. In high energy conditions with breaking or nearly breaking waves, the effects of amplitude and frequency dispersion tend to cancel, and all components of the wave spectrum travel with approximately the shallow water wave speed. These results are consistent with previous studies.
Download or read book Technical Abstract Bulletin written by and published by . This book was released on with total page 912 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coasts And Estuaries Management And Engineering written by Vallam Sundar and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2022-12-06 with total page 412 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Coastlines, like many things around us, are constantly evolving. Keeping pace with the changes and their development is necessary to ensure their stability and to maintain eco-equilibrium for nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. Supported with field measurements for model validation, several numerical and analytical tools are available to us to understand the physical processes in the vicinity of these water bodies.This book encompasses the engineering principles involved in field data observation, measurement, collection, and processing; the prediction of wave climate and sediment transport using measured field data; numerical modelling involving calibration and validation of the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes; and the study of the underlying physical processes and the application of sustainable engineering measures to combat coast- and estuary-related problems.The book has three sections: The first section is an elaboration on the need for and framework of the existing management and engineering notions. The second section details the measurement of the various parameters such as wave climate (offshore and nearshore), shoreline changes, beach profile variation, and sediment transport rates. The third section describes the aspects of wave prediction to arrive at design characteristics and modelling of the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes along open coasts and tidal inlets.This book is designed to benefit students pursuing coastal engineering as their field of specialization. It could also serve as a guidebook to engineers, planners, and decision makers working in the fields of coastal, estuarine, and harbour engineering, governmental and private agencies that plan the financial outlay for coastal development projects, and private consultants dealing with maritime hydraulics.
Download or read book Renewable Energy written by Bent Sorensen and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2018-12-14 with total page 2216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This four-volume set, edited by a leading expert in the field, brings together in one collection a series of papers that have been fundamental to the development of renewable energy as a defined discipline. Some of the papers were first published many years ago, but they remain classics in their fields and retain their relevance to the understanding of current issues. The papers have been selected with the assistance of an eminent international editorial board. The set includes a general introduction and each volume is introduced by a new overview essay, placing the selected papers in context. The range of subject matter is considerable, including coverage of all the main renewable technologies, the fundamental principles by which they function, and the issues around their deployment such as planning, integration and socio-economic assessment. Overall, the set provides students, teachers and researchers, confronted with thousands of journal articles, book chapters and grey literature stretching back decades, with a ready-made selection of and commentary on the most important key writings in renewable energy. It will be an essential reference for libraries concerned with energy, technology and the environment.
Download or read book Coastal Geology written by Juan A. Morales and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on 2022-03-18 with total page 463 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This textbook shows all the existing knowledge about coastal geology and its implications for coastal management. In the last decades, the geological sciences have been supplying exciting information about the coastal systems, not only from its dynamics but also providing a sedimentary concept to understand and interpret the preserved coastal stratigraphical record. Furthermore, recent investigations have been focused on the prevention of coastal hazards like storms, tsunamis, or sea-level fluctuation. This discipline has an increasing interest after the expanding human activities around the coasts worldwide. The present trend is that many of the problems raised by the coast–human interaction must be resolved by using the Integrated Coastal Zone Management. The chapters of this book have a double-level structure. The first part of each chapter contains the necessary information for undergraduate courses studying coastal geology. The second part includes advanced information and examples to be used by graduate students and novel professionals.
Download or read book Coasts written by C. D. Woodroffe and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2002 with total page 640 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Coasts are some of the most rapidly changing places on earth. Understanding the natural adjustments that occur between coastal landforms and the processes that influence them is essential for the better management of coastal resources. Coasts provides a necessary background in geomorphology for those studying coastal systems. It describes the landforms that occur on the coast, their responses to the processes that shape them, and the pattern of evolution that can be determined for different types of coast over thousands of years. Numerous examples from around the world are used to illustrate the variety of environments. Particular attention is paid to coastal morphodynamics, the co-adjustment of process and form, on rocky, reef, sandy, deltaic-estuarine and muddy coasts. This valuable text for advanced undergraduate and graduate students is well illustrated and contains an extensive reference section. It will also be of great interest to environmental scientists, geologists, coastal managers and planners.
Download or read book Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology written by Robin Davidson-Arnott and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2019-09-19 with total page 541 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Download or read book Ocean Wave Dynamics For Coastal And Marine Structures written by Vallam Sundar and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2021-07-05 with total page 362 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The increase in exploration and exploitation of ocean resources, maritime trade and ocean energy have led to development of new concepts in the study of coastal and marine structures. These developments necessitate comprehensive and in-depth knowledge of ocean wave behavior in the offshore as well as in the nearshore, such as the phenomena of wave generation, propagation, deformation and its effects, which help to enlighten our understanding of its influence on coastal and offshore structures.Ocean Wave Dynamics for Coastal and Marine Structures is a recommended textbook for students and researchers in ocean sciences, engineering and related topics. It offers application of theoretical formulae to practical relevance through problem solving. This book will also be invaluable for professionals in ports, offshore and marine industries as well as consulting companies.
Download or read book Advances in ocean bottom seismology written by Francisco Javier Nuñez-Cornu and published by Frontiers Media SA. This book was released on 2023-03-27 with total page 199 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wave Response of Kahului Harbor Maui Hawaii written by and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 228 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Comparison of Measured and Transformed Directional Wave Spectra Using a Linear Refraction Model written by James Cheng Liu and published by . This book was released on 1990 with total page 108 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Proceedings of the 63rd Meeting of the Coastal Engineering Research Board written by Coastal Engineering Research Board. Meeting and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 112 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis written by Orville T. Magoon and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page 1080 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Proceedings of the Second International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, held in New Orleans, Louisiana, July 25-28, 1993. Sponsored by the Waterways, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division of ASCE. This collection, which honors Professor Robert L. Wiegel, contains 79 papers that explore major advances in wave measurement and quantification of ocean and lake waves, including technical knowledge and applications on wave theory, characteristics, design and techniques. Papers are both national and international in scope and include practical examples and case histories. Topics include: wave transformation, data analysis and reliability, wave modeling, applications, long waves, extreme wave statistics, and other topics relating to wave research over the last two decades. This collection will serve as a primary reference to the latest information in the field of wave measurement and analysis for anyone working with coastal technology.
