Download or read book Infragravity Waves and Nearshore Bars written by Troels Aagaard and published by . This book was released on 1989 with total page 234 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone written by Kent K. Hathaway and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 100 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Download or read book The Influence of Nearshore Bars on Infragravity Energy at the Shoreline written by Nicholas Carroll Cox and published by . This book was released on 2012 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Bathymetric features such as nearshore sandbars can alter local nearshore hydrodynamic processes such as the production of infragravity energy. These bathymetric features may act to reduce or increase the amount of infragravity energy that reaches the shoreline. To determine the influence of the bathymetric features on infragravity energy, the numerical nearshore processes model XBeach was used to simulate infragravity energy at the shoreline. Numerical simulations were completed for three types of bathymetric scenarios: continuous alongshore bar, bar-rip, and no-bar. The presence of the bar reduces the amount of infragravity energy at the shoreline when compared with the no-bar scenario. This reduction was characterized by modifying an empirical parameterization for significant infragravity swash developed by Stockdon et al. (2006) for barred beaches. Results show that the amount of infragravity energy in the form of swash is dependent on the bar height and depth, in addition to the offshore wave height and wavelength. The bar-rip bathymetry produces significant alongshore variation in infragravity energy. The alongshore variations may be due to refracted wave energy or the production of an edge wave by the rip. The magnitude of infragravity energy in the alongshore direction is found to be correlated with the surf zone width. Finally, erosion for the bar-rip scenario is studied qualitatively. The shape of the shoreline is modified during storm events, and is found to take the shape of the alongshore distribution of infragravity energy. Since infragravity swash influences beach erosion, results of this research may be used as part of an erosion vulnerability scale. Such information on erosion vulnerability is important for the design of coastal protection systems and the protection of coastal communities.
Download or read book Encyclopedia of Coastal Science written by M. Schwartz and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2006-11-08 with total page 1243 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.
Download or read book Coastal Zones and Estuaries written by Federico Ignacio Isla and published by EOLSS Publications. This book was released on 2009-06-30 with total page 536 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Coastal Zones and Estuaries is a component of Encyclopedia of Environmental and Ecological Sciences, Engineering and Technology Resources which is part of the global Encyclopedia of Life Support Systems (EOLSS), an integrated compendium of twenty one Encyclopedias. The Theme deals with important links of water, sediment, and nutrients between continents and oceans. The present behavior of sea level, ice sheets, and coral reefs is still a matter of controversy and concern. Coastal experiences learned in developed countries should be used to improve coastal policies world wide. Within the Global Change Programme, it is recognized that the earth system is characterized by critical limits and abrupt changes. The coastal systems are particularly sensitive to these changes. This volume is aimed at the following five major target audiences: University and College Students, Educators, Professional Practitioners, Research Personnel and Policy Analysts, Managers, and Decision Makers and NGOs.
Download or read book Infragravity Waves in a Dissipative Multiple Bar System written by Bernard Gerhard Ruessink and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 245 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Nearshore Infragravity Wave Generation written by Eileen M. Czarnecki and published by . This book was released on 2006 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: These parameters affect the infragravity wave response in the following manner: a higher peak wave period leads to a higher magnitude of response; a higher offshore significant wave height leads to a higher magnitude of response; a narrower directional width leads to higher magnitude of response; increased bottom friction leads to a decreased magnitude of response; a shallower bathymetric profile leads to an increased magnitude of response; a higher bar amplitude leads to decreased magnitude of response, especially near the shoreline; a wider bar leads to a slightly higher magnitude of response; the bar being closer to the shore results in a narrower response pattern; obliquely incident waves lead to a decreased magnitude of response at the offshore boundary, although peak wave direction has little effect on response near the shoreline; a narrower frequency spectrum leads to a slightly decreased magnitude of response.
Download or read book Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport written by J?rgen Freds?e and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1992 with total page 406 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of non-cohesive sediment by waves and current in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required. It is intended for M.Sc. and Ph.D. students. The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. It does not present a large number of different formulae for the sediment transport rates under various conditions. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described; in the second, sediment transport and morphological development are treated. The hydrodynamic part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents. The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts (critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer, near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development, of coastal profiles and coastlines.
Download or read book Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology written by Robin Davidson-Arnott and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2019-09-19 with total page 541 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Download or read book Shore Wave Modulation Due to Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone with Applications written by Saad M. M. Abdelrahman and published by . This book was released on 1986 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The omni-present low frequency wave motion (30-300 sec) contains a substantial fraction of the total wave energy inside the surf zone. A more complete description of nearshore wave processes considers incident short period waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber and direction due to relatively slowly varying depth changes caused by the long waves. The energy in the wind wave band is enhanced by side band growth at the sum and difference frequencies of short and long waves (order 15% at the shoreline). The modulation is identified in the analysis of field data as a positive correlation between the long waves and the wind wave envelope near the shoreline. Considering oblique incident waves, a steady longshore current showing a non-vanishing current at the shoreline is found as a result of the non-linear interaction between monochromatic incident and infragravity waves. An analytical solution describing the unsteadiness of the longshore current is developed. Keywords include: Infragravity, Longshore Current, Sediment transport, and Surf zone dynamics. (Theses).
Download or read book Sandy Beach Morphodynamics written by Derek Jackson and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2020-06-03 with total page 814 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions. Includes chapters that are written by the world's leading experts, including the latest up-to-date thinking on a variety of subject areas Covers state-of-the-art techniques, bringing the reader the latest technologies/methods being used to understand beach systems Presents a clear-and-concise description of processes and techniques that enables a clear understanding of coastal processes
Download or read book Treatise on Geomorphology written by and published by Academic Press. This book was released on 2013-02-27 with total page 6392 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The changing focus and approach of geomorphic research suggests that the time is opportune for a summary of the state of discipline. The number of peer-reviewed papers published in geomorphic journals has grown steadily for more than two decades and, more importantly, the diversity of authors with respect to geographic location and disciplinary background (geography, geology, ecology, civil engineering, computer science, geographic information science, and others) has expanded dramatically. As more good minds are drawn to geomorphology, and the breadth of the peer-reviewed literature grows, an effective summary of contemporary geomorphic knowledge becomes increasingly difficult. The fourteen volumes of this Treatise on Geomorphology will provide an important reference for users from undergraduate students looking for term paper topics, to graduate students starting a literature review for their thesis work, and professionals seeking a concise summary of a particular topic. Information on the historical development of diverse topics within geomorphology provides context for ongoing research; discussion of research strategies, equipment, and field methods, laboratory experiments, and numerical simulations reflect the multiple approaches to understanding Earth’s surfaces; and summaries of outstanding research questions highlight future challenges and suggest productive new avenues for research. Our future ability to adapt to geomorphic changes in the critical zone very much hinges upon how well landform scientists comprehend the dynamics of Earth’s diverse surfaces. This Treatise on Geomorphology provides a useful synthesis of the state of the discipline, as well as highlighting productive research directions, that Educators and students/researchers will find useful. Geomorphology has advanced greatly in the last 10 years to become a very interdisciplinary field. Undergraduate students looking for term paper topics, to graduate students starting a literature review for their thesis work, and professionals seeking a concise summary of a particular topic will find the answers they need in this broad reference work which has been designed and written to accommodate their diverse backgrounds and levels of understanding Editor-in-Chief, Prof. J. F. Shroder of the University of Nebraska at Omaha, is past president of the QG&G section of the Geological Society of America and present Trustee of the GSA Foundation, while being well respected in the geomorphology research community and having won numerous awards in the field. A host of noted international geomorphologists have contributed state-of-the-art chapters to the work. Readers can be guaranteed that every chapter in this extensive work has been critically reviewed for consistency and accuracy by the World expert Volume Editors and by the Editor-in-Chief himself No other reference work exists in the area of Geomorphology that offers the breadth and depth of information contained in this 14-volume masterpiece. From the foundations and history of geomorphology through to geomorphological innovations and computer modelling, and the past and future states of landform science, no "stone" has been left unturned!
Download or read book Coastal Dynamics 01 written by Hans Hanson and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page 1110 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This collection contains 109 papers presented at the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, held in Lund, Sweden, June 11-15, 2001.
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Download or read book Headland bay Beaches Static Equilibrium Concept For Shoreline Management written by Rong-chung John Hsu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2021-06-22 with total page 811 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Headland-bay beaches (HBBs) are ubiquitous in coastal environment. They exist around the world naturally or artificially as byproduct of engineering project. Though in various shapes, sizes and stability, a HBB in static equilibrium not only is a delight for visitors, but also offers hope for better beach protection, restoration, recreation, and shoreline management. With an empirical parabolic model now available, the stability of an existing HBB can be verified, the future bay shape downdrift of a harbor can be predefined, and a stable HBB can be designed.Although a plethora of books are available for coastal and ocean engineering and geomorphology, only a countable few have covered engineering applications of HBBs. On the contrary, this book with focus on the HBBs in static equilibrium aims to offer a comprehensive volume with knowledge and applications for coastal scientists, engineers, managers, students, and the general public interested in HBBs. Useful software tools for HBBs (MEPBAY, MeePaSoL, and SMC) are introduced in the book to aid in applications.The authors have set out to make this book the first unique publication on HBBs, by bringing together the old coastal geomorphic knowledge and new concepts for static bay beaches. This book also provides numerous examples using the static bay beach concept to assist coastal scientists and engineers on planning and pre-design of a stable HBB, and for experimentalists, consultants, and numerical modelers to alleviate the burden of comparing planning options and conducting laborious physical experiments on coastal sedimentation problems.
Download or read book Technical Memodrandum written by Waterways Experiment Station (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1988 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coastal Storms written by Paolo Ciavola and published by John Wiley & Sons. This book was released on 2017-06-12 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A comprehensive introduction to coastal storms and their associated impacts Coastal Storms offers students and professionals in the field a comprehensive overview and groundbreaking text that is specifically devoted to the analysis of coastal storms. Based on the most recent knowledge and contributions from leading researchers, the text examines coastal storms’ processes and characteristics, the main hazards (such as overwash, inundation and flooding, erosion, structures overtopping), and how to monitor and model storms. The authors include information on the most advanced innovations in forecasting, prediction, and early warning, which serves as a foundation for accurate risk evaluation and developing adequate coastal indicators and management options. In addition, structural overtopping and damage are explained, taking into account the involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes. The monitoring methods of coastal storms are analyzed based on recent results from research projects in Europe and the United States. Methods for vulnerability and risk evaluation are detailed, storm impact indicators are suggested for different hazards and coastal management procedures analyzed. This important resource includes: Comprehensive coverage of storms and associated impacts, including meteorological coastal storm definitions and related potential consequences A state-of-the-art reference for advanced students, professionals and researchers in the field Chapters on monitoring methods of coastal storms, their prediction, early warning systems, and modeling of consequences Explorations of methods for vulnerability and risk evaluation and suggestions for storm impact indicators for different hazards and coastal management procedures Coastal Storms is a compilation of scientific and policy-related knowledge related to climate-related extreme events. The authors are internationally recognized experts and their work reflects the most recent science and policy advances in the field.
