Download or read book Australia s Century of Surf written by Tim Baker and published by Random House Australia. This book was released on 2013 with total page 274 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Australia's century of surf marks the centenary of the great Hawaiian Olympic swimmer and surfer Duke Kahanamoku's visit to Australia in 1914. Duke was not the first to ride a surfboard in Australia, but his surfing exhibitions in the summer of 1914-15 set in motion a great wave of oceanic obsession that continues to this day. Surfing has morphed from exotic curio to regimented training for lifesavers, from counterculture revolution to respectable mainstream sport. Along the way, it's shaped our coastal migrations, spawned vast business empires and design innovations, produced sports stars and spectacular casualties, and helped the beach overtake the bush as our national, natural habitat of choice."--Back cover.

Download or read book Surfing Australia written by Phil Jarratt and published by . This book was released on 2017-11 with total page 344 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The definitive guide to Australia's surfing history, published in conjunction with Surfing Australia. Australian surf culture is over a century old, and it still hasn't grown up. From its roots as an illegal pastime to its current incarnation as a professional sport, surfing's enduring appeal has always been the carefree, quintessentially Australian lifestyle that goes with it. Australian surf culture has always had competing impulses of chaos and order. For every Boot Hill Gang there is a Surf Life Saving Association; for every tragic drug disqualification, a World Title winner. From Tommy Tanna, Alick Wickham and Freddie Williams's pioneering surf lifestyles to the hedonism of 1950s beach culture, the Coolangatta Kids of the 1970s, to the eventual professionalised machine that surfing in Australia has now become, this is the complete, no-holds-barred history of both sides of the story. With forewords by Mark Richards and Layne Beachley, Australia's World Champion surfers, this book is the definitive history of surfing in Australia.

Download or read book Surfer of the Century written by Ellie Crowe and published by . This book was released on 2007 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "A brief biography of Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, five-time Olympic swimming champion from the early 1900s who is also considered worldwide as the 'father of modern surfing'"--Provided by publisher.

Download or read book Australian Beach Cultures written by Douglas Booth and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 281 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Australians are surrounded by beaches. But this enclosure is more than a geographical fact for the inhabitants of an island continent; the beach is an integral part of the cultural envelope. This work analyzes the history of the beach as an integral aspect of Australian culture.

Download or read book Aussie Surfing Heroes written by Mark Occhilupo and published by Random House Australia. This book was released on 2011-11-30 with total page 688 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Two surfing legends in one book! Occy is the magically talented child star who crashed and burned, then miraculous crawled from the wreckage to claim his destiny. Mick is the ferociously determined, disciplined athlete, who overcame personal tragedy and devastating injury to pursue his dreams. Australian surfing has produced many great champions, but few have overcome so much, and inspired so many, as Mark Occhilupo and Mick Fanning. Though dramatically contrasting characters, Occy and Mick's life stories both serve as powerful primers in the power of dreams, the importance of never giving up, and the courage required to claw your way out of the deepest trough and climb all the way up to the highest peak. Occy : the Rise and Fall and Rise of Mark Occhilupo and Mick Fanning's Surf For Your Life, both written together with renowned surf writer Tim Baker, have become modern Australian classics, within the surfing community and beyond. They have inspired elite athletes from all walks of life, launched innumerable grommets on their first forays into the surf and spurred countless mature age surfers to get off the couch and back into the waves. Now combined into an inspirational omnibus, Occy and Surf For Your Life, are essential reading for anyone wanting to overcome adversity, blast through their personal limits and achieve their goals.

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Download or read book Australia s Hottest One Hundred Surfing Legends written by Phil Jarratt and published by Hardie Grant Publishing. This book was released on 2012-02-01 with total page 515 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Perpetually broke, he would eat a spider for a beer, or drink mud from a puddle for a bite of a pie. The history of Australian surfing has been full of pioneers, outlaws, hooligans, and mavericks. This lavishly illustrated book, with profiles of 100 legends of Australian surfing from 'ancient history' (pre-1950s) to the current day, is the perfect gift for any surfer or surf aficionado. Featuring many rare and archival images, along with hundreds of gorgeous contemporary surf shots, Australia's Hottest 100 Surfing Legends is a feast for the eyes. Packed with behind-the-scenes anecdotes from insider author Phil Jarratt, this is a riveting account of the pioneers behind Australian surfing's past, and the mavericks who are now moulding its future.

Download or read book Life of Brine written by Phil Jarratt and published by Hardie Grant Publishing. This book was released on 2017-08-01 with total page 371 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “In the not-so-small world of surfing, Phil Jarratt has seen it all. Luckily for us, he’s a fearless, funny storyteller, with a reporter’s unsentimental eye and an endearing modesty. But his memoir is, above all, a haunting self-portrait: the boy practising drop-knee cutbacks in his mother’s full-length mirror in mid-century Wollongong becomes a man.” William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize–winning author of Barbarian Days Life of Brine is the memoir of Phil Jarratt, one of the world’s best-known chroniclers of surfing culture whose lifelong pursuit of the perfect wave has placed him in the midst of some of the most exciting moments in surfing’s modern history. Jarratt, who has courted controversy in his long career as a journalist, editor and documentarian, pulls no punches as he rides an exhilarating wave of nostalgia from the sixties up until now, through the heady days of drugs, alcohol and excess in Bali and Biarritz and other exotic locations in between. Filled with debauchery, reflection and insight, this is a book that will be devoured by surfers young and old.

Download or read book Girl in the Curl written by Andrea Gabbard and published by Seal Press. This book was released on 2000-12-08 with total page 144 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Traces the achievements of female surfers and the impact they have had on the sport over the last one hundred years.

Download or read book That Summer at Boomerang written by Phil Jarratt and published by Hardie Grant Publishing. This book was released on 2014-01-01 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: That Summer at Boomerang, by leading surf writer Phil Jarrat, is an evocative retelling of the little known story about the birth of surfing in Australia and the early beginnings of our beach culture and sporting heritage. In the first summer of World War One, while Australian soldiers made their way to the battlefields, the world’s original aquatic superstar sailed for Sydney. Over a two-month, three-state tour, Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku revolutionised perceptions of surfing and swimming, and changed forever the direction of fifteen-year-old Isabel Letham’s life. When the charistmatic Duke picks an average Aussie girl out of the audience to ride his long board with him into shore before a packed beach, it’s a symbol of the seismic change that is already rippling through the nation as the rules and regulations of the 19th century give way to the anything-goes beach culture we recognise today. The story centres on Sydney, Australia, but moves between Honolulu, Stockholm and the Olympics in 1912, and even California (where the Duke eventually goes in search of a Hollywood film career, followed by Isabel). But many more characters from history people these pages – such as novelist Jack London, our first sport promoter Hugh ‘Huge Deal’ Mcintosh as well as other sporting greats – as one season, one summer, epitomises the end of an era and the birth of a new one. ‘That Summer at Boomerang immerses the reader in a time “when fun was young”. The entwined stories of Duke Kahanamoku and Isabel Letham, whose paths crossed at Freshwater beach at the dawn of the age of celebrity and the beginning of the Great War, are the foreground to a fascinating portrayal of Australia and Hawaii, of sport and business, at that seminal moment.’ MALCOLM KNOX ‘Duke and Isabel are entrenched as iconic figures in the world of surfing. This is a wonderfully romanticised account of what “really” happened in the summer of 1914.’ LAYNE BEACHLEY ‘Phil Jarratt has worked a miracle and resurrected Duke Kahanamoku, bringing him to life with great research, wit and storytelling, and above all love for all of surfing’s characters.’ BOB MCTAVISH Phil Jarratt lives in Noosa, Australia and is the leading writer on surfing and surfing history in Australia. He has published many books on surfing and sport biographies including Salts and Suits, Hottest 100 Surfing Legends, Kelly Slater, Surfing Australia: The Complete History of Surf Board Riding in Australia. He is a former editor of Tracks