Download or read book A Surfer Riding a Big Wave in Hawaii Journal written by C. S. Creations and published by Createspace Independent Publishing Platform. This book was released on 2017-05-02 with total page 150 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This journal with 150 ruled pages awaits your writing pleasure. You are invited to unplug, slow down, and enjoy the process. Happy writing!

Download or read book Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2021-10-26 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.

Download or read book Eddie Would Go written by Stuart Holmes Coleman and published by Macmillan + ORM. This book was released on 2004-02-07 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This biography of legendary Hawaiian surfer Eddie Aikau is “a homespun homage to a modern-day folk hero” (Outside Magazine). In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a “waterman.” As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule’a. From Stuart Holmes Coleman, Eddie Would Go is the “fascinating” story of Eddie Aikau’s life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii (San Francisco Chronicle). “Enlightening . . . an impressive history.” —Surfing Magazine “A meaningful biography of a surfing hero . . . extraordinary.” —San Diego Union-Tribune “Coleman, a surfer himself, does an admirable job of de-mystifying this remarkable man.” —St. Petersburg Times

Download or read book Maverick s written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2003-10-09 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With its massive faces, punishing rocks, and treacherous currents, Maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. Author Matt Warshaw has updated his critically acclaimed illustrated history of Maverick's to cover important recent developments, and we've added a fresh new cover to kick this edition off in style. "A fascinating account," to quote Surfer magazine, it takes "a cue from Sebastian Junger's The Perfect Storm...Warshaw focused on a single event...and expands on it to illuminate an entire culture and its world beyond waves." The event was the death of celebrated surfer Mark Foo, one of those who congregate every winter to test themselves in the dark, foreboding waters. And what unfolds in Maverick's is no less than the story of big-wave surfing, from its ancient Hawaiian origins to modern tow-in riders. It's a book to be enjoyed not only by those who surf deep in the waves, but also by those whose taste for adventure is satisfied deep in the pages of a very good book.

Download or read book Vintage Journal Riding the Big Waves Hawaii written by and published by Found Image Press. This book was released on 2021-04 with total page 100 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Vintage Journal Riding the Big Waves, Hawaii pocket journal features a travel poster illustration of people surfing big waves in Hawaii. This journal has full color decorative vintage art on the cover, and is the perfect companion for your next trip, writing project, to-do list, or any occasion where a handy notebook is needed. Found Image Press Vintage Journals feature vintage art that celebrates your favorite places, hobbies and interests. The front cover design features a classic piece of art from the Found Image Press collection of over 60,000 pictures. - 4 x 6 inches - 100 lined opaque pages - Soft matte finish

Download or read book North Shore Chronicles written by Bruce Jenkins and published by Frog Books. This book was released on 2005-08-05 with total page 284 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.

Download or read book Waves of Resistance written by Isaiah Helekunihi Walker and published by University of Hawaii Press. This book was released on 2011-03-02 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing has been a significant sport and cultural practice in Hawai‘i for more than 1,500 years. In the last century, facing increased marginalization on land, many Native Hawaiians have found refuge, autonomy, and identity in the waves. In Waves of Resistance Isaiah Walker argues that throughout the twentieth century Hawaiian surfers have successfully resisted colonial encroachment in the po‘ina nalu (surf zone). The struggle against foreign domination of the waves goes back to the early 1900s, shortly after the overthrow of the Hawaiian kingdom, when proponents of this political seizure helped establish the Outrigger Canoe Club—a haoles (whites)-only surfing organization in Waikiki. A group of Hawaiian surfers, led by Duke Kahanamoku, united under Hui Nalu to compete openly against their Outrigger rivals and established their authority in the surf. Drawing from Hawaiian language newspapers and oral history interviews, Walker’s history of the struggle for the po‘ina nalu revises previous surf history accounts and unveils the relationship between surfing and colonialism in Hawai‘i. This work begins with a brief look at surfing in ancient Hawai‘i before moving on to chapters detailing Hui Nalu and other Waikiki surfers of the early twentieth century (including Prince Jonah Kuhio), the 1960s radical antidevelopment group Save Our Surf, professional Hawaiian surfers like Eddie Aikau, whose success helped inspire a newfound pride in Hawaiian cultural identity, and finally the North Shore’s Hui O He‘e Nalu, formed in 1976 in response to the burgeoning professional surfing industry that threatened to exclude local surfers from their own beaches. Walker also examines how Hawaiian surfers have been empowered by their defiance of haole ideas of how Hawaiian males should behave. For example, Hui Nalu surfers successfully combated annexationists, married white women, ran lucrative businesses, and dictated what non-Hawaiians could and could not do in their surf—even as the popular, tourist-driven media portrayed Hawaiian men as harmless and effeminate. Decades later, the media were labeling Hawaiian surfers as violent extremists who terrorized haole surfers on the North Shore. Yet Hawaiians contested, rewrote, or creatively negotiated with these stereotypes in the waves. The po‘ina nalu became a place where resistance proved historically meaningful and where colonial hierarchies and categories could be transposed. 25 illus.

Download or read book Big Wave Surfer Journal Hawaiian Silhouette in Water Surf Notebook to Log All Your Epic Ocean Sessions and Waves Additional Pages to Store Co written by Barefoot Bodeez Art and published by Independently Published. This book was released on 2019-03-28 with total page 110 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A handy 6 x 9 inch, 109 page notebook with placeholders to fill out so you don't miss a trick on your surfing journey. Log your location, date, company, weather and what was epic or challenging. Great to take with you on that surf vacation or retreat. Take a look inside to see the log pages and also the cover artwork that is infused on the inside spreads for extra style.

Download or read book Summer Surfboards on the Wave Surfer Journal written by Big Wave Printing and published by Independently Published. This book was released on 2019-03-28 with total page 110 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A handy 6 x 9 inch, 109 page notebook with placeholders to fill out so you don't miss a trick on your surfing journey. Log your location, date, company, weather and what was epic or challenging. There are pages for your surfing contacts and surfing wish lists to record all those surfing essentials you see in shops and websites, that you just have to have one day! Great to take with you on that surf vacation or retreat. Surf's Up so enjoy!

Download or read book Big Juice written by John Long and published by Rowman & Littlefield. This book was released on 2011-11-08 with total page 337 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The best and newest big-wave surfing stories from the sport’s insiders More than a decade ago, John Long published his now classic The Big Drop, an unprecedented look at the larger-than-life frontier of big wave surfing. Since then, the sport has exploded in popularity. The big wave bar keeps rising as extreme surfers continue to seek out, surf, and survive a ride on the elusive 100-foot wave. The incredible stories of a new generation of thrill-seeking, death-defying surfers and stunning, full-color photography of monster waves fill the pages of this new collection by John Long and former surfing pro Sam George. A powerful, contemporary look at the men and women who live and breathe for the next big wave and the bigger, more dangerous challenge, The Big Juice presents a rich history of characters, controversies, heroism, humor, and tragedy that define the sport. With contributions from: - Ben Marcus, author of The Surfing Handbook and The Art of Stand Up Paddling - Chris Dixon, writer, Surfer magazine - Kimball Taylor, writer, ESPN - Bruce Jenkins, author of North Shore Chronicles; writer, Sports Illustrated - Drew Kampion, former editor of Surfer, Surfing, Wind Surf, and Wind Tracks magazines; author of The Book of Waves: Form and Beauty on the Ocean - James Hollmer-Cross, writer, Surfing magazine . . . and big-wave surfers: - Laird Hamilton - Dave Kalama - Evan Slater - Shane Dorian - Greg Noll- and more

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Download or read book Women on Waves written by Jim Kempton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2021-07-06 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make it’s Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia, From Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.

Download or read book Dangerous Fun written by Ugo Corte and published by University of Chicago Press. This book was released on 2022-06-20 with total page 285 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A thrilling ethnography of big wave surfing in Hawaii that explores the sociology of fun. Straight from the beaches of Hawaii comes an exciting new ethnography of a community of big-wave surfers. Oahu’s Waimea Bay attracts the world’s best big wave surfers—men and women who come to test their physical strength, courage, style, knowledge of the water, and love of the ocean. Sociologist Ugo Corte sees their fun as the outcome of social interaction within a community. Both as participant and observer, he examines how mentors, novices, and peers interact to create episodes of collective fun in a dangerous setting; how they push one another’s limits, nourish a lifestyle, advance the sport and, in some cases, make a living based on their passion for the sport. In Dangerous Fun, Corte traces how surfers earn and maintain a reputation within the field, and how, as innovations are introduced, and as they progress, establish themselves and age, they modify their strategies for maximizing performance and limiting chances of failure. Corte argues that fun is a social phenomenon, a pathway to solidarity rooted in the delight in actualizing the self within a social world. It is a form of group cohesion achieved through shared participation in risky interactions with uncertain outcomes. Ultimately, Corte provides an understanding of collective effervescence, emotional energy, and the interaction rituals leading to fateful moments—moments of decision that, once made, transform one’s self-concept irrevocably.

Download or read book Surf Wave Beach Hawaii written by Hawaii Surfing Journals and published by . This book was released on 2019-11-14 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Hawaii Surfing Notebook Blank Dot Grid Family Journal dotted with dots 6x9 120 Pages Checklist Record Book Take Notes Hawaii Paradise Planner Paper Christmas Gift for Hawaii Lover Hawaiian

Download or read book Surf Wave Beach Hawaii written by Hawaii Surfing Journals and published by . This book was released on 2019-11-13 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Hawaii Surfing Notebook Blank Line Family Journal Lined with Lines 6x9 120 Pages Checklist Record Book Take Notes Hawaii Paradise Planner Paper Christmas Gift for Hawaii Lover Hawaiian

Download or read book Big Wave Surfing written by Buckley and published by Carson-Dellosa Publishing. This book was released on 2015-08-01 with total page 52 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: You want intense? How about a mountain of water as high as a building? The world’s greatest big wave surfers face that challenge and conquer whatever the ocean can throw at them! Find out how big wave surfing started, meet the top wave riders, and learn how these daring athletes conquer the world’s biggest waves! This title will allow students to explain events, procedures, ideas, or concepts in a historical, scientific, or technical text, including what happened and why, based on specific information in the text. • Profiles of athletes • Text based questions • Bolded keywords

Download or read book How to Party With an Infant written by Kaui Hart Hemmings and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2016-08-09 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A hilarious and charming story about a quirky single mom in San Francisco who tiptoes through the minefields of the Mommy Wars and manages to find friendship and love.