Download or read book Waking Up in the Sea written by Derek Dunfee and published by . This book was released on 2021-04-13 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: WAKING UP IN THE SEABy Derek DunfeeFormat: HardcoverTrim Size: 8.5 x 11308pgs.Professional big wave surfer/ Photographer/ AuthorI go into detail about surfing and chasing big waves around the world, I also open up about how the concussions and trauma I suffered from big wave surfing impacts me everyday. You'll have a better understanding of why I don't surf big waves any more. I've never told this particular story and I'm excited to share.

Download or read book Mother s Love written by Luke Foster and published by Austin Macauley Publishers. This book was released on 2023-06-23 with total page 198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Mother’s Love is a series of essays about social issues. I say that my readers know my essays are good for them like broccoli, but the jokes throughout are sort of the cream cheese that makes the essays tasty. I started writing them in 2014 and then picked up where I left off in 2021. Some of the best essays were written while travelling to Brooklyn in New York in 2021. The other more notable essays were written after long beach walks where I would empty my mind out so when I started writing I would only have a heading in mind and then let the rest flow directly out of my subconscious. I often say that my life is sort of a circus that my essays are based on but the Dalai Lama says circuses are fun.

Download or read book Library of the World s Best Literature Songs hymn and lyrics written by Charles Dudley Warner and published by . This book was released on 1898 with total page 726 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Library of the World s Best Literature Ancient and Modern Songs hymns and lyrics written by and published by . This book was released on 1902 with total page 380 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Hound of the Sea written by Garrett McNamara and published by HarperCollins. This book was released on 2016-11-15 with total page 200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this thrilling and candid memoir, world record-holding and controversial Big Wave surfer Garrett McNamara--star and subject of the HBO mini-series, 100 Foot Wave--chronicles his emotional quest to ride the most formidable waves on earth. Garrett McNamara set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells. But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes—to risk everything for one thrilling ride? Is riding giant waves the ultimate exercise in control or surrender? Personal and emotional, readers will know GMac as never before, seeing for the first time the personal alongside the professional in an exciting, intimate look at what drives this inventive, iconoclastic man. Surfing awesome giants isn’t just thrill seeking, he explains—it’s about vanquishing fears and defeating obstacles past and present. Surfers and non-surfers alike will embrace McNamara’s story—as they have William Finnegan’s Barbarian Days—an its intimate look at the enigmatic pursuit of riding waves, big and small. Hound of the Sea is a record of perseverance, passion, and healing. Thoughtful, suspenseful, and spiritually profound, McNamara reveals the beautiful soul of surfing through the eyes of one of its most daring and devoted disciples.

Download or read book World s Best Travel Experiences written by National Geographic and published by National Geographic Books. This book was released on 2012 with total page 324 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Features some of the world's most transformative locales, from Norway's western fjords and Cambodia's Angkor Wat to Kyoto's Moss Garden and the urban surprises of Denver, Pittsburgh, and Vancouver.

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Mariner Books. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockaway is the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockaway is a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.

Download or read book Man s Best Friends True Stories of the World s Most Heroic Dogs written by John McShane and published by Kings Road Publishing. This book was released on 2012-07-27 with total page 215 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For thousands of years, men and women have known who to turn to in times of trouble - a dog. All over the world dogs have risked, and often lost, their lives to look after the human beings they care for. Their intelligence, devotion and astonishing courage to help humans in distress on countless occasions almost defies belief. Their stories range from Roselle the Labrador, who led her blind owner to safety from the carnage of the World Trade Centre, to the legends of Balto and Togo, two of the huskies who traversed over 1,000 kilometres of snow and ice to bring life-saving medicine to an isolated town, and Swansea Jack, the black Labrador who rescued almost 30 people from drowning and who had a statue erected in his honour. Many of the dogs featured in this book have been specially trained to help humans, a task they eagerly set about regardless of the physical risk they face as a result. Then there are the family pets who, when danger threatens, react with total disregard for their own wellbeing, caring only about one thing; protecting the humans they love.

Download or read book Library of the World s Best Literature Songs hymns and lyrics written by Charles Dudley Warner and published by . This book was released on 1902 with total page 376 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book The Best of the World s Classics written by Henry Cabot Lodge and published by DigiCat. This book was released on 2022-12-10 with total page 1927 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: DigiCat presents to you this unique and meticoulusly edited sellection of the greatest works of world literature, from ancient Greece and Rome to Modern American literature: Volume I – Greece Volume II – Rome Volume III – Great Britain and Ireland I Volume IV – Great Britain and Ireland II Volume V – Great Britain and Ireland III Volume VI – Great Britain and Ireland IV Volume VII – Continental Europe I Volume VIII – Continental Europe II Volume IX – America I Volume X – America II

Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

Download or read book World s Best Whiskies written by Dominic Roskrow and published by White Lion Publishing. This book was released on 2018-10-16 with total page 288 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Revised and Updated. Whisky is one of the world’s most revered spirits, with connoisseurs spending a great deal of money and time on the appreciation of rare expressions and limited edition bottles. In addition, many whisky connoisseurs travel direct to the source to see and experience the world’s best distilleries at first hand. Since the publication of the first edition in 2010, many changes have occurred in the world of whisky which are fully explored in this completely new edition. Over 200 of the 750 whiskies are updated, along with over 20 of the 38 features to reflect the ‘new world of whisky’, from the growing US single malt craft distillery movement (including Balcones in Texas), Japan (Yoichi),Taiwan (Kavalan), India (Paul John), Australia (Overeem), France (Warengem) and Sweden (Mackmyra, Spirit of Hven). Aimed at beginners as well as connoisseurs, the book encompasses everything you need to know to increase your appreciation of this complex and fascinating spirit. Iconic distilleries such as Lagavulin, Highland Park and Glenrothes in Scotland are fully explored alongside the bourbon innovators of Kentucky such as Woodford Reserve and Maker’s Mark. From global brands to tiny craft distillers, this book offers a comprehensive overview of the best dram the world over.

Download or read book A Library of the World s Best Literature Ancient and Modern Vol XL Forty Five Volumes Songs Hymns Lyrics written by Charles Dudley Warner and published by Cosimo, Inc.. This book was released on 2008-07-01 with total page 362 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Popular American essayist, novelist, and journalist CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER (1829-1900) was renowned for the warmth and intimacy of his writing, which encompassed travelogue, biography and autobiography, fiction, and more, and influenced entire generations of his fellow writers. Here, the prolific writer turned editor for his final grand work, a splendid survey of global literature, classic and modern, and it's not too much to suggest that if his friend and colleague Mark Twain-who stole Warner's quip about how "everybody complains about the weather, but nobody does anything about it"-had assembled this set, it would still be hailed today as one of the great achievements of the book world. Volume 40 is a comprehensive selection of songs and hymns including works by: . Richard Lovelace . Nora Hopper . James Montgomery . Sarah Williams . Charles Godfrey Leland . Andrew Marvell . King Henry IV of France . Gerald Massey . Eliza Calvert Hall . Sir Walter Raleigh . and many others

Download or read book Women on Waves written by Jim Kempton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2021-07-06 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make it’s Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia, From Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.

Download or read book The Best of the World s Classics Vol 1 10 written by Henry Cabot Lodge and published by DigiCat. This book was released on 2023-11-12 with total page 1927 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: DigiCat presents this meticoulusly edited and formatted sellection of the greatest works of world literature, from ancient Greece and Rome to Modern American literature: Volume I – Greece Volume II – Rome Volume III – Great Britain and Ireland I Volume IV – Great Britain and Ireland II Volume V – Great Britain and Ireland III Volume VI – Great Britain and Ireland IV Volume VII – Continental Europe I Volume VIII – Continental Europe II Volume IX – America I Volume X – America II

Download or read book Boys Life written by and published by . This book was released on 1966-07 with total page 66 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Boys' Life is the official youth magazine for the Boy Scouts of America. Published since 1911, it contains a proven mix of news, nature, sports, history, fiction, science, comics, and Scouting.