Download or read book Wave Variability and Wave Spectra for Wind generated Gravity Waves written by United States. Beach Erosion Board and published by . This book was released on 1959 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book The Sampling Variability of Estimates of Spectra of Wind Generated Gravity Waves written by M. A. Donelan and published by . This book was released on 1981 with total page 22 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book A Note on the Growth of the Spectrum of Wind Generated Gravity Waves as Determined by Non linear Considerations written by Willard J. Pierson and published by . This book was released on 1959 with total page 30 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wind Generated Ocean Waves written by I.R. Young and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 1999-03-23 with total page 307 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably.This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Download or read book Directional Ocean Wave Spectra written by Robert C. Beal and published by . This book was released on 1991 with total page 248 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Das Buch enthält insgesamt 33 Vorträge, die anlässlich des Symposiums "Measuring, Modeling, Predicting, and Applying Directional Ocean Wave Spectra" gehalten wurden, welches von 19890418 bis 19890420 am Applied Physics Laboratory der Johns Hopkins Universität stattfand. Das Symposium war den Ergebnissen des Labrador Sea Extreme Waves Experiment (LEWEX) gewidmet, welches mit internationaler Beteiligung unter Einsatz von zwei Schiffen, zwei Radar- Fernerkundungsflugzeugen sowie Radar-Fernerkundungssatelliten im März 1987 in der Labradorsee durchgeführt wurde. Ziel war die Bestimmung von richtungsbezogenen Meereswellenspektren. Nach zwei einführenden Vorträgen in das Experiment LEWEX sowie in die Bedeutung der Wellenspektren widmen sich die übrigen Fachbeiträge folgenden Themen: Physik von Wind und Wellen (Wind-Wave Physics); Seegangsverhalten und Messungen an der Meeresoberfläche (Seakeeping and Surface Measurement); Luftgestützte und weltraumgestützte Radarmessungen (Air and Space Measurement); Numerische Modellrechnungen (Numerical Model Estimates); Zukünftiger Forschungsbedarf (Future Directions). 300 der während LEWEX gemessenen 2000 Wellenspektren werden vorgestellt und verglichen.
Download or read book Ocean Wave Dynamics written by Ian Young and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2020-03-20 with total page 396 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)
Download or read book On Ocean Wave Spectra and a New Method of Forecasting Wind generated Sea written by Gerhard Neumann and published by . This book was released on 1953 with total page 50 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind written by Peter Janssen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-10-28 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Download or read book Generation of Waves by Wind written by Charles L. Bretschneider and published by . This book was released on 1965 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Contents: Practical applications -- deep water Significant wave concept Complex nature of sea surface Wave variability Wave spectrum concepts Froude scaling of the wave spectrum Propagation of waves and swells into shallow water Generation of wind waves in shallow water Generation of wind waves over a bottom of constant depth Decay of waves in deep water Wave statistics Wind speed versus wind speed.
Download or read book Practical Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics written by Willard J. Pierson and published by . This book was released on 1958 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Middle Atmosphere Dynamics written by David G. Andrews and published by Academic Press. This book was released on 2016-07-21 with total page 502 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For advanced undergraduate and beginning graduate students in atmospheric, oceanic, and climate science, Atmosphere, Ocean and Climate Dynamics is an introductory textbook on the circulations of the atmosphere and ocean and their interaction, with an emphasis on global scales. It will give students a good grasp of what the atmosphere and oceans look like on the large-scale and why they look that way. The role of the oceans in climate and paleoclimate is also discussed. The combination of observations, theory and accompanying illustrative laboratory experiments sets this text apart by making it accessible to students with no prior training in meteorology or oceanography. * Written at a mathematical level that is appealing for undergraduates and beginning graduate students * Provides a useful educational tool through a combination of observations and laboratory demonstrations which can be viewed over the web * Contains instructions on how to reproduce the simple but informative laboratory experiments * Includes copious problems (with sample answers) to help students learn the material.
Download or read book WAVEx written by Mark Douglass Loveland and published by . This book was released on 2023 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The focus of this dissertation is the development of mathematical models for wind-generated gravity waves on the ocean surface. Wind-generated gravity waves, commonly referred to as wind waves, are waves on the ocean surface that typically exist with wavelengths of 1-1500 m and periods ranging from 0.25-30 seconds. Spectral wind wave models estimate the transport of energy from these wind waves by numerically solving a form of a partial differential equation (PDE) called the Wave Action Balance Equation. More specifically, these models seek to predict the changes in action density due to forcing from winds on the surface, dissipation, and nonlinear interactions. In turn, these models can be used to generate forecasts of statistical quantities which include significant wave height, wave radiation stress, significant wave period, as well as the wave spectrum itself. This dissertation focuses on two primary objectives related to spectral wind wave models. The first being development of finite element methods (FEM) for the spectral wind wave model and the second being investigation into source term implementations. As it pertains to the latter, the dissertation discusses the history of source terms and those used in contemporary spectral wind wave models. A study is conducted that focuses on the trade-off between run time and accuracy of 1st, 2nd, and 3rd generation source terms. In the study, a coupled wave-circulation model called ADCIRC+SWAN is used to model Hurricane Ike. Water levels from the coupled model are compared to gauge data and significant wave height, peak period, and mean wave direction are compared to buoys. Results show potential for efficacy of reduced order source terms in order to eliminate computational cost while sacrificing minimal accuracy. Several potential FEM discretizations of the Wave Action Balance Equation are discussed. The methods, which include streamline upwind Petrov-Galerkin (SUPG), least squares, and discontinuous Galerkin, are implemented using the open source finite element library FEniCS for simplified 2-D cases. Open source finite element libraries, such as FEniCS, typically only support geometries up to dimension of 3. The Wave Action Balance Equation is 4 dimensions in space so this presents difficulties. A method to use a FEM library, such as FEniCS, to solve problems in domains with dimension larger than 4 using the product basis is discussed and demonstrated for some simpler problems such as the Poisson equation in 4 dimensions and the advection-reaction-diffusion problem. Using these ideas, a new spectral wind wave model, WAVEx, is formulated and implemented using the new finite element library FEniCSx. WAVEx is designed to allow for construction of multiple FEM discretizations with relatively small modifications in the code base. An example implementation is then demonstrated with WAVEx using continuous finite elements and SUPG stabilization in geographic/spectral space. For propagation in time, a generalized one step implicit finite difference method is used. When source terms are active, the second order operator splitting scheme known as Strang splitting is used. In the splitting scheme, propagation is solved using the aforementioned implicit method and the nonlinear source terms are treated explicitly using second order Runge-Kutta. Several test cases which are part of the Office for Naval Research Test Bed (ONR Test Bed) are demonstrated both with and without 3rd generation source terms and results are compared to analytic solutions, observations, and SWAN output
Download or read book Practical Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics written by Willard J. Pierson and published by . This book was released on 1955 with total page 318 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Spectral Measurements and Growth Rates of Wind generated Water Waves written by Alex J. Sutherland and published by . This book was released on 1967 with total page 80 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Power spectral density measurements were made of the water surface displacement in a wind-generated wave train in the Stanford Wind, Water-wave Facility. Two of the more interesting features of the measured spectra--the presence of a second peak and the lack of an equilibrium range--are fully discussed. Growth rates of different wave components were determined from the measured spectra. The resulting values were compared with those predicted by the viscous Reynolds stress mechanism of energy transfer from wind to wave which was proposed by Miles. Where the growth was exponential the theory could be made to predict growth rates successfully at wave numbers less than 15.0 ft( -1). At higher wave numbers the theory predicted values an order of magnitude larger than those measured in the Stanford facility. Limited regions of linear growth were found at the lowest wind speed for low frequency components. The scatter in the data did not permit a quantitative comparison with theory to be made for this range. (Author).
Download or read book Equilibrium Spectrum of Wind generated Waves from Deep to Shallow Water written by Delun Xu and published by . This book was released on 1984 with total page 36 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Operational Analysis and Prediction of Ocean Wind Waves written by Madhav L. Khandekar and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-03-07 with total page 223 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This monograph is an attempt to compile the present state of knowledge on ocean wave analysis and prediction. The emphasis of the monograph is on the development of ocean wave analysis and predic tion procedures and their utility for real-time operations and appli cations. Most of the material in the monograph is derived from journal articles, research reports and recent conference proceedings; some of the basic material is extracted from standard text books on physical oceanography and wind waves. Ocean wave analysis and prediction is becoming an important activity in the meteorological and oceanographic services of many countries. The present status of ocean wave prediction may be compar able to the status of numerical weather prediction of the mid-sixties and early seventies when a number of weather prediction models were developed for research purposes, many of which were later put into operational use by meteorological services of several countries. The increased emphasis on sea-state analysis and prediction has created a need for a ready reference material on various ocean wave analysis and modelling techniques and their utility. The present monograph is aimed at fulfilling this need. The monograph should prove useful to the ocean wave modelling community as well as to marine forecasters, coastal engineers and offshore technologists. The monograph could also be used for a senior undergraduate (or a first year graduate) level course in ocean wave modelling and marine meteorology.
Download or read book Basic Coastal Engineering written by Robert M. Sorensen and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2006-03-28 with total page 331 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The second edition (1997) of this text was a completely rewritten version of the original text Basic Coastal Engineering published in 1978. This third edition makes several corrections, improvements and additions to the second edition. Basic Coastal Engineering is an introductory text on wave mechanics and coastal processes along with fundamentals that underline the practice of coastal engineering. This book was written for a senior or first postgraduate course in coastal engineering. It is also suitable for self study by anyone having a basic engineering or physical science background. The level of coverage does not require a math or fluid mechanics background beyond that presented in a typical undergraduate civil or mechanical engineering curriculum. The material p- sented in this text is based on the author’s lecture notes from a one-semester course at Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Texas A&M University, and George Washington University, and a senior elective course at Lehigh University. The text contains examples to demonstrate the various analysis techniques that are presented and each chapter (except the first and last) has a collection of problems for the reader to solve that further demonstrate and expand upon the text material. Chapter 1 briefly describes the coastal environment and introduces the re- tively new field of coastal engineering. Chapter 2 describes the two-dimensional characteristics of surface waves and presents the small-amplitude wave theory to support this description.
