Download or read book On the Breaking of Water Waves of Finite Amplitude on a Sloping Beach written by Harvey Philip Greenspan and published by . This book was released on 1957 with total page 32 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In recent paper Carrier + Greenspan showed that, within the framework of the non-linear shallow-water theory, there exist waves which do not break as they climb a sloping beach. The formation of a shock or bore is dependent on a variety of factors (wave shape, particle velocity) and, as yet, no general criteria for breaking have been found. Waves are considered which propagate shoreward into quiescent water; it is shown that any compressive wave (a wave of positive amplitude) which has a non-zero slope at the wave-front eventually breaks before reaching the coastline. In fact, an explicit relation is obtained between the initial conditions and the position where breaking occurs. (Author).
Download or read book Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport written by R. E. Meyer and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2013-09-24 with total page 471 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport documents the proceedings of an Advanced Seminar held in October, 1971, aiming to offer a coherent, interdisciplinary view of the state of physical research in coastal oceanography and the direction in which this subject is moving. The articles range from wave refraction to littoral erosion, and the authors from geologists to mathematicians. The book opens with a study on the characteristics of wave records in the coastal zone. This is followed by separate chapters on sediment transport in beaches; equations for water waves; small-amplitude normal oscillations of a liquid body; and wave behavior near caustics in models and in nature. Subsequent chapters deal with nonlinear wave interaction in a variety of physical phenomena including deep water waves; the study of longshore currents; sediment suspension by periodic waves; forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone; run-up on beaches; and the wave breaking process in shallow water.
Download or read book Simulation of Water Waves by Boussinesq Models written by Ge Wei and published by . This book was released on 1997 with total page 234 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A new set of time-dependent Boussinesq equations is derived to simulate nonlinear long wave propagation in coastal regions. Following the approaches by Nwogu and later by Chen and Liu, the velocity (or velocity potential) at a certain water depth corresponding to the optimum linear dispersion property is used as a dependent variable. Therefore, the resulting equations are valid in intermediate water depth as well as for highly nonlinear waves. Coefficients for second order bound waves and the third order Schrodinger equation are derived and compared with exact solutions. A numerical model using a combination of second and fourth order schemes to discretize equation terms is developed for obtaining solutions to the equations. A fourth order predictor-corrector scheme is employed for time stepping and the first order derivative terms are finite differenced to fourth order accuracy, making the truncation errors smaller than the dispersive terms in the equations. Linear stability analysis is performed to determine the corresponding numerical stability range for the model. To avoid the problem of wave reflection from the conventional incident boundary condition, internal wave generation by source function is employed for the present model. Numerical filtering is applied at specified time steps in the model to eliminate short waves (about 2 to 5 times of the grid size) which are generated by the nonlinear interaction of long waves. To simulate the wave breaking process, additional terms for artificial eddy viscosity are included in the model equations to dissipate wave energy. The dissipation terms are activated when the horizontal gradient of the horizontal velocity exceeds the specified breaking criteria. Some of the existing models for simulating the process of wave runup are reviewed and we attempt to incorporate the present model to simulate the process by maintaining a thin layer of water over the physically dry grids.
Download or read book The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1989 with total page 770 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Download or read book Numerical Modeling of Water Waves written by Pengzhi Lin and published by CRC Press. This book was released on 2008-04-30 with total page 500 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Modelling large-scale wave fields and their interaction with coastal and offshore structures has become much more feasible over the last two decades with increases in computer speeds. Wave modelling can be viewed as an extension of wave theory, a mature and widely published field, applied to practical engineering through the use of computer tools.
Download or read book Naval Research Reviews written by and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Proceedings of the XII All Russian Scientific Conference on Current Issues of Continuum Mechanics and Celestial Mechanics written by Maxim Yu Orlov and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on 2024 with total page 383 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Zusammenfassung: This book presents peer reviewed articles from The XII All Russian Scientific Conference on Current issues of Continuum Mechanics and Celestial Mechanics (XII CICMCM), held on 15-17 November 2023, at Toms in, Russia. It summarizes the latest studies on shock and explosive loading of promising materials, including functionally graded materials, porous materials, multilayer ceramic structures, advanced materials and etc. It provides a platform for researchers (and professionals) to exchange ideas and present the latest findings in these important and growing areas of applied physics and engineering
Download or read book Computational Fluid Dynamics written by Paul D. Bates and published by John Wiley & Sons. This book was released on 2005-08-05 with total page 540 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Uniquely outlines CFD theory in a manner relevant to environmental applications. This book addresses the basic topics in CFD modelling in a thematic manner to provided the necessary theoretical background, as well as providing global cases studies showing how CFD models can be used in practice demonstrating how good practice can be achieved , with reference to both established and new applications. First book to apply CFD to the environmental sciences Written at a level suitable for non-mathematicians
Download or read book Tsunami Science Four Years After the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami written by Phil R. Cummins and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2009-04-20 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The tragedy of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami has led to a rapid expansion in science directed at understanding tsunami and mitigating their hazard. A remarkable cross-section of this research was presented in the session: Tsunami Generation and Hazard, at the International Union of Geodesy and Geophysics XXIV General Assembly in Perugia, held in July of 2007. Over one hundred presentations were made at this session, spanning topics ranging from paleotsunami research, to nonlinear shallow-water theory, to tsunami hazard and risk assessment. A selection of this work, along with other contributions from leading tsunami scientists, is published in detail in the 28 papers of this special issue of Pure and Applied Geophysics: Tsunami Science Four Years After the Indian Ocean Tsunami. Part I of this issue includes 14 papers covering the state-of-the-art in tsunami modelling and hazard assessment. Another 14 papers are published in Part II focusing on observations and data analysis.
Download or read book Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology written by Robin Davidson-Arnott and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2019-09-19 with total page 541 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Download or read book Shallow Flows written by Gerhard H. Jirka and published by CRC Press. This book was released on 2004-09-15 with total page 692 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This text presents the key findings of the International Symposium held in Delft in 2003, which explored the process of shallow flows. Shallow flows are found in lowland rivers, lakes, estuaries, bays, coastal areas and in density-stratified atmospheres, and may be observed in puddles, as in oceans. They impact on the life and work of a w
Download or read book Marine Research written by and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 1200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Hyperbolic Problems Theory Numerics Applications written by Sylvie Benzoni-Gavage and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2008-01-12 with total page 1117 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This volume contains papers that were presented at HYP2006, the eleventh international Conference on Hyperbolic Problems: Theory, Numerics and Applications. This biennial series of conferences has become one of the most important international events in Applied Mathematics. As computers became more and more powerful, the interplay between theory, modeling, and numerical algorithms gained considerable impact, and the scope of HYP conferences expanded accordingly.
Download or read book Marine Research 1973 written by United States. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 1200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book U S Government Research Reports written by and published by . This book was released on 1958 with total page 744 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Water Waves The Mathematical Theory with Applications written by James Johnston Stoker and published by Courier Dover Publications. This book was released on 2019-04-17 with total page 593 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: First published in 1957, this is a classic monograph in the area of applied mathematics. It offers a connected account of the mathematical theory of wave motion in a liquid with a free surface and subjected to gravitational and other forces, together with applications to a wide variety of concrete physical problems. A never-surpassed text, it remains of permanent value to a wide range of scientists and engineers concerned with problems in fluid mechanics. The four-part treatment begins with a presentation of the derivation of the basic hydrodynamic theory for non-viscous incompressible fluids and a description of the two principal approximate theories that form the basis for the rest of the book. The second section centers on the approximate theory that results from small-amplitude wave motions. A consideration of problems involving waves in shallow water follows, and the text concludes with a selection of problems solved in terms of the exact theory. Despite the diversity of its topics, this text offers a unified, readable, and largely self-contained treatment.
Download or read book Water Wave Mechanics For Engineers And Scientists written by Robert G Dean and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 1991-01-23 with total page 369 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.
