Download or read book Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms In 2 Parts written by Maarten W Dingemans and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1997-01-07 with total page 1015 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The primary objective of this book is to provide a review of techniques available for the problems of wave propagation in regions with uneven beds as they are encountered in coastal areas. The view taken is that the techniques should be useful for application in advisory practice. However, effort is put into a precise definition of the underlying physical principles, so that the validity of the methods used can be evaluated. Both linear and nonlinear wave propagation techniques are discussed. Because of its length, the book comes in two parts: Part 1 covers primarily linear wave propagation, and Part 2 covers nonlinear wave propagation.

Download or read book Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms Linear wave propagation written by Maarten W. Dingemans and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2000 with total page 508 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves In 2 Parts written by Chiang C Mei and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 2005-07-26 with total page 1135 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded version, three chapters on recent developments have been added. The first is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry. The second is on Zakharov's theory of nonlinear wave fields with broad spectra. The third is an extensive discussion of powerful numerical techniques for highly nonlinear waves. Other new topics include infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Download or read book Coastal Stabilization written by Rong-chung John Hsu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1997-07-01 with total page 596 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book discusses coastal defense measures, which have not improved in the past few decades, and better alternatives. It emphasizes on the existence of stable bays in coastal geomorphology and their use in coastal stabilization. The conventional measures for saving beaches, such as seawalls, groins, offshore breakwaters, and renourishment, are discussed in detail, followed by an alternative known as headland control. Many types of coast, and the respective defense measures, are discussed, especially for eroding beaches downcoast of harbors with long breakwaters. The formation of offshore bars during storms is examined and the design of stable recreational beaches is demonstrated. Practical design problems are discussed in all cases. Many issues requiring attention in coastal engineering are also outlined.

Download or read book Water Wave Mechanics For Engineers And Scientists written by Robert G Dean and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 1991-01-23 with total page 369 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.

Download or read book Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms written by James Thornton Kirby and published by . This book was released on 1985 with total page 102 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In Part I of this report, a time dependent form of the reduced wave equation of Berkhoff is developed for the case of water waves propagating over a bed consisting of ripples superimposed on an otherwise slowly varying mean depth which satisfies the mild slope assumption. The ripples are assumed to have wavelengths on the order of the surface wave length but amplitudes which scale as a small parameter along with the bottom slope. The theory is verified by showing that it reduces to the case of plane waves propagating over a non-dimensional, infinite patch of sinusoidal ripples, studied recently by Davis and Heathershaw and Mei. We then study two cases of interest--formulation and use of the coupled parabolic equations for propagation over patches of arbitrary form in order to study wave reflection, and propagation of trapped waves along an infinite ripple patch. In the second part, we use the results of Part 1 to extend the results for weakly-nonlinear wave propagation to the case of partial reflection from bottoms with mild-sloping mean depth with superposed small amplitude undulations. Keywords include: Combined refraction-diffraction, Linear Surface Waves, Shallow and intermediate water depths, and Wave reflection.

Download or read book Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering written by Philip L. F. Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1999 with total page 263 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This volume consists of five excellent review papers. In the first paper, ?A Review of Coastal Wave Modeling: The Physical and Mathematical Problems?, N E Huang presents a summary of the state-of-the-art of wave modeling in deep waters. He points out several shortcomings in existing modeling approaches and expresses the urgent need for developing a statistical theory of surface waves in shallow waters. Huang believes that the statistical theory can be formulated as the soliton turbulence. He also points out other important issues in wave modeling, including the air-sea interaction processes, and the physics of the wave-current and dissipation processes. In the second paper A C Radder focuses his discussion on the ?Hamiltonian Dynamics of Water Waves?. He demonstrates that the Hamiltonian theory of surface waves can be formulated in terms of surface elevation and the velocity potential at the free surface as canonical variables. Several evolution equations, can be readily obtained. Radder also points out the need to develop a stochastic wave model in the shallow-water environment.The maximum runup is arguably the single most important parameter in the design of coastal structures and for the evaluation of the inundation potential of storm surges and tsunamis. C E Synolakis presents a thorough review of the ?Exact Solutions of Shallow-Water Wave Equations?. For a single sloping beach, the evolution and runup of solitary, dipole, N and cnoidal waves are discussed. These solutions are then extended to more practical problems.The last two papers concern the flow and sediment motions near the seafloor. In their paper, ?Boundary Layer and Sediment Dynamics Under Sea Waves?, P Blondeaux and G Vittori give an expert review of the recent contributions on the understanding of the interaction of the coherent vortex with cohesionless or partially cohesive sediments in a boundary layer. The formation and development of small-scale bedforms in the coastal regions are also discussed. Finally, in ?Wave Scour Around Structures?, B M Sumer and J Freds?e review the scouring processes around various types of structures. Many recent experimental data and theoretical developments are presented.

Download or read book Advances In Coastal And Ocean Engineering Vol 4 written by Philip L-f Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1999-06-17 with total page 263 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This volume consists of five excellent review papers. In the first paper, “A Review of Coastal Wave Modeling: The Physical and Mathematical Problems”, N E Huang presents a summary of the state-of-the-art of wave modeling in deep waters. He points out several shortcomings in existing modeling approaches and expresses the urgent need for developing a statistical theory of surface waves in shallow waters. Huang believes that the statistical theory can be formulated as the soliton turbulence. He also points out other important issues in wave modeling, including the air-sea interaction processes, and the physics of the wave-current and dissipation processes. In the second paper A C Radder focuses his discussion on the “Hamiltonian Dynamics of Water Waves”. He demonstrates that the Hamiltonian theory of surface waves can be formulated in terms of surface elevation and the velocity potential at the free surface as canonical variables. Several evolution equations, can be readily obtained. Radder also points out the need to develop a stochastic wave model in the shallow-water environment.The maximum runup is arguably the single most important parameter in the design of coastal structures and for the evaluation of the inundation potential of storm surges and tsunamis. C E Synolakis presents a thorough review of the “Exact Solutions of Shallow-Water Wave Equations”. For a single sloping beach, the evolution and runup of solitary, dipole, N and cnoidal waves are discussed. These solutions are then extended to more practical problems.The last two papers concern the flow and sediment motions near the seafloor. In their paper, “Boundary Layer and Sediment Dynamics Under Sea Waves”, P Blondeaux and G Vittori give an expert review of the recent contributions on the understanding of the interaction of the coherent vortex with cohesionless or partially cohesive sediments in a boundary layer. The formation and development of small-scale bedforms in the coastal regions are also discussed. Finally, in “Wave Scour Around Structures”, B M Sumer and J Fredsøe review the scouring processes around various types of structures. Many recent experimental data and theoretical developments are presented.

Download or read book Waves And Wave Forces On Coastal And Ocean Structures written by Robert T Hudspeth and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2006-04-26 with total page 954 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book focuses on: (1) the physics of the fundamental dynamics of fluids and of semi-immersed Lagrangian solid bodies that are responding to wave-induced loads; (2) the scaling of dimensional equations and boundary value problems in order to determine a small dimensionless parameter ε that may be applied to linearize the equations and the boundary value problems so as to obtain a linear system; (3) the replacement of differential and integral calculus with algebraic equations that require only algebraic substitutions instead of differentiations and integrations; and (4) the importance of comparing numerical and analytical computations with data from laboratories and/or nature.

Download or read book Advances In Numerical Simulation Of Nonlinear Water Waves written by Qingwei Ma and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2010-04-15 with total page 700 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Most of the Earth's surface is covered by water. Many aspects of our everyday lives and activities may be affected by water waves in some way. Sometimes, the waves can cause disaster. One of the examples was the tsunami that occurred in the Indian Ocean on 26 December 2004. This indicates how important it is for us to fully understand water waves, in particular the very large ones. One way to do so is to perform numerical simulation based on the nonlinear theory. Considerable research advances have been made in this area over the past decade by developing various numerical methods and applying them to emerging problems; however, until now there has been no comprehensive book to reflect these advances. This unique volume aims to bridge this gap.This book contains 18 self-contained chapters written by more than 50 authors from 12 different countries, many of whom are world-leading experts in the field. Each chapter is based mainly on the pioneering work of the authors and their research teams over the past decades. The chapters altogether deal with almost all numerical methods that have been employed so far to simulate nonlinear water waves and cover many important and very interesting applications, such as overturning waves, breaking waves, waves generated by landslides, freak waves, solitary waves, tsunamis, sloshing waves, interaction of extreme waves with beaches, interaction with fixed structures, and interaction with free-response floating structures. Therefore, this book provides a comprehensive overview of the state-of-the-art research and key achievements in numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves, and serves as a unique reference for postgraduates, researchers and senior engineers working in industry.

Download or read book Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves Linear aspects written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2005 with total page 540 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. It is intended for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves.

Download or read book Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves Nonlinear aspects written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2005 with total page 595 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded edition, two chapters on recent developments have been added: one is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry, and the other is on Zakharov's theory of broad spectrum wave fields. New sections include topics on infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises. Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Download or read book Hydraulic performance of an impermeable submerged structure for tsunami damping written by Agnieszka Strusinska and published by ibidem-Verlag / ibidem Press. This book was released on 2011-02-01 with total page 228 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the face of the enormous destruction caused by the December 26, 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami event, it is necessary to utilize more effective means of tsunami mitigation to prevent such tragedies. Based on the experiences gathered in storm wave damping by using submerged structures, Agnieszka Strusinska examines the applicability of artificial reefs as an integrated part of a multi-defence line strategy for tsunami attenuation. In her study, she first discusses the results of laboratory experiments in order to identify the difference in the nonlinear interaction of storm and tsunami-like solitary waves with an impermeable sub¬mer¬ged structure of a finite width (including generation of wave breaking and wave fission). With this basic knowledge, the damping performance of an artificial reef under tsunami impact is determined as a ratio of wave transmission, wave reflection, and wave energy dissipation for varying reef geometries and incident wave conditions using a Boussinesq-type numerical model.

Download or read book Hydrodynamics Around Cylindrical Structures written by B. Mutlu Sumer and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2006 with total page 550 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book discusses the subject of wave/current flow around a cylinder, the forces induced on the cylinder by the flow, and the vibration pattern of slender structures in a marine environment.The primary aim of the book is to describe the flow pattern and the resulting load which develops when waves or current meet a cylinder. Special attention is paid to circular cylinder. The development in the forces is related to the various flow patterns and is discussed in detail. Regular as well as irregular waves are considered, and special cases like wall proximities (pipelines) are also investigated.

Download or read book Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics written by Ib A. Svendsen and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2006 with total page 748 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as an introductory textbook for graduate students and as a reference book for engineers and scientists working in the field of coastal engineering. As such it gives a description of the theories for wave and nearshore hydrodynamics. It is meant to de-mystify the topics and hence starts at a fairly basic level. It requires knowledge of fluid mechanics equivalent to a first year graduate level. At the end of each topic, an attempt is made to give an overview of the present stage of the scientific development in that area with numerous references for further studies.

Download or read book Dynamics Of Coastal Systems written by Job Dronkers and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2005-08-04 with total page 541 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Dynamics of Coastal Systems is about the dynamic interaction between water motion and seabed topography, which affects the natural response of coastal systems to change in external conditions and to human interventions — from the scale of seabed ripples up to the scale of entire barrier and delta systems. The book highlights major concepts developed during the past 50 years for the description of current-topography, tide-topography and wave-topography interactions. It provides simple analytical tools and models for diagnosing and predicting coastal response to change, with references to a great variety of coastal systems around the world. These concepts and tools are crucial for sustainable management of beaches, deltas and coastal wetlands.The book is based on a master course on coastal morphodynamics given at the Universities of Utrecht and Delft in The Netherlands for graduate students who are familiar with the basic concepts of coastal hydrodynamics. It enables coastal engineers to complete their background knowledge and to facilitate access to cutting-edge scientific literature on specific topics. The book may also serve to familiarise consultants, practitioners and academics in related coastal disciplines with modern concepts of land-sea interaction.