Download or read book Time Surfing written by Paul Loomans and published by Watkins Media Limited. This book was released on 2017-09-19 with total page 349 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Zen monk and coach Paul Loomans is the creator of Time Surfing, a 7-step approach to help anyone create more time in their life. “This book is for anyone who feels trapped by over-full, over-scheduled days. It explains how to escape the raging storms of busyness and find your way back to a more enjoyable and natural relationship with the clock. Time Surfing is a beautiful idea, expressed brilliantly in this beautiful book.” Tony Crabbe, author of international bestseller Busy: How to Thrive in a World of Too Much Who has time these days? Any moments that haven’t already been accounted for are swallowed up by smartphones, social media and working into the evening hours. Stress can often seem to be caused solely by the outside world, but in fact it also comes from within. This book will inspire and guide you to choose peace as a basis for carrying out all your daily activities, whether at work or in the home. The approach is based on a step-by-step method called Time Surfing, which consists of seven simple and easy-to-learn instructions backed with targeted tips and techniques. Rooted in Zen Buddhism, the emphasis is very much on making the most of the time you have rather than trying to control time itself. The instructions – which include making time for “breathers” throughout the day and finishing a task before starting another – will feel instinctive, and will make it possible for you to surf over the waves of time. You will learn that you can trust your intuition when it comes to choosing what to do, and, as a result, your actions will be not only inspired but also very effective. The focus you experience will be relaxed and unforced. But, more than anything else, an inner sense of calm will arise.
Download or read book Time Surfing written by Paul Loomans and published by Watkins Media Limited. This book was released on 2017-09-19 with total page 349 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Zen monk and coach Paul Loomans is the creator of Time Surfing, a 7-step approach to help anyone create more time in their life. “This book is for anyone who feels trapped by over-full, over-scheduled days. It explains how to escape the raging storms of busyness and find your way back to a more enjoyable and natural relationship with the clock. Time Surfing is a beautiful idea, expressed brilliantly in this beautiful book.” Tony Crabbe, author of international bestseller Busy: How to Thrive in a World of Too Much Who has time these days? Any moments that haven’t already been accounted for are swallowed up by smartphones, social media and working into the evening hours. Stress can often seem to be caused solely by the outside world, but in fact it also comes from within. This book will inspire and guide you to choose peace as a basis for carrying out all your daily activities, whether at work or in the home. The approach is based on a step-by-step method called Time Surfing, which consists of seven simple and easy-to-learn instructions backed with targeted tips and techniques. Rooted in Zen Buddhism, the emphasis is very much on making the most of the time you have rather than trying to control time itself. The instructions – which include making time for “breathers” throughout the day and finishing a task before starting another – will feel instinctive, and will make it possible for you to surf over the waves of time. You will learn that you can trust your intuition when it comes to choosing what to do, and, as a result, your actions will be not only inspired but also very effective. The focus you experience will be relaxed and unforced. But, more than anything else, an inner sense of calm will arise.
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.
Download or read book It s Great to Suck at Something written by Karen Rinaldi and published by Atria Books. This book was released on 2019-05-07 with total page 256 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover how the freedom of sucking at something can help you build resilience, embrace imperfection, and find joy in the pursuit rather than the goal. What if the secret to resilience and joy is the one thing we’ve been taught to avoid? When was the last time you tried something new? Something that won’t make you more productive, make you more money, or check anything off your to-do list? Something you’re really, really bad at, but that brought you joy? Odds are, not recently. As a sh*tty surfer and all-around-imperfect human Karen Rinaldi explains in this eye-opening book, we live in a time of aspirational psychoses. We humblebrag about how hard we work and we prioritize productivity over play. Even kids don’t play for the sake of playing anymore: they’re building blocks to build the ideal college application. But we’re all being had. We’re told to be the best or nothing at all. We’re trapped in an epic and farcical quest for perfection. We judge others on stuff we can’t even begin to master, and it’s all making us more anxious and depressed than ever. Worse, we’re not improving on what really matters. This book provides the antidote. (It’s Great to) Suck at Something reveals that the key to a richer, more fulfilling life is finding something to suck at. Drawing on her personal experience sucking at surfing (a sport she’s dedicated nearly two decades of her life to doing without ever coming close to getting good at it) along with philosophy, literature, and the latest science, Rinaldi explores sucking as a lost art we must reclaim for our health and our sanity and helps us find the way to our own riotous suck-ability. She draws from sources as diverse as Anthony Bourdain and surfing luminary Jaimal Yogis, Thich Nhat Hanh, and Jean-Paul Sartre, among many others, and explains the marvelous things that happen to our mammalian brains when we try something new, all to discover what she’s learned firsthand: it is great to suck at something. Sucking at something rewires our brain in positive ways, helps us cultivate grit, and inspires us to find joy in the process, without obsessing about the destination. Ultimately, it gives you freedom: the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory. Coupling honest, hilarious storytelling with unexpected insights, (It’s Great to) Suck at Something is an invitation to embrace our shortcomings as the very best of who we are and to open ourselves up to adventure, where we may not find what we thought we were looking for, but something way more important.
Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-09-06 with total page 274 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Wonderful . . . a moving autobiography, the story of a unique business, and a detailed blueprint for hope." —Jared Diamond, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Guns, Germs, and Steel In this 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.
Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 342 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2015-04-17 with total page 571 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.
Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2021-05-19 with total page 416 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The saying goes, "The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward." Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time brings readers into the intimately personal sport withSurf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water. From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has traveled for surf the world over. But for him, the people stood out the most. Originally published in 2008,Surf Is Where You Find It preserves memories of surf eras gone by, and commemorates those who helped shape the surfing world today. Now, ten years and more than 50,000 copies later, Patagonia is once again re-launching the surfing classic in a fully redesigned edition with new photos. Timed to correspond with the release of a new documentary about Gerry produced by equally legendary surfer and skateboarder Stacy Peralta, these 38 stories and hundreds of photos offer more of Gerry than ever before. In these pages, Gerry pays homage to those who shaped surfing today -- surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way. Includes forewords by Rob Machado andThe Surfer's Journal found Steve Pezman.
Download or read book Surfing written by Peter Diel and published by Meyer & Meyer Verlag. This book was released on 2008 with total page 202 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A guide to surfing offers information on the origins of the sport, essential equipment, techniques, and the best surfing locations in the United States, Hawaii, Australia, and Europe.
Download or read book Surfing in the Movies written by John Engle and published by McFarland. This book was released on 2015-10-19 with total page 261 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing has fascinated filmmakers since Thomas Edison shot footage of Waikiki beachboys in 1906. Before the 1950s surf craze, surfing showed up in travelogues or as exotic background for studio features. The arrival of Gidget (1959) on the big screen swept the sport into popular culture, but surfer-filmmakers were already featuring the day's best surfers in self-narrated two-reelers. Hollywood and independent filmmakers have produced about three dozen surf films in the last half-century, including the frothy Beach Party movies, Point Break (1991) and Chasing Mavericks (2012). From Bud Browne's earliest efforts to The Endless Summer (1966), Riding Giants (2004) and today's brilliant videos, over 1,000 surfing movies have celebrated the stoke. This first full-length study of surf movies gives critical attention to hundreds of the most important films.
Download or read book Cocaine Surfing written by Chas Smith and published by Rare Bird Books. This book was released on 2019-12-11 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.
Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2006-09-05 with total page 276 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Yvon Chouinard-legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.-shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. A newly revised edition of Let My People Go Surfing is available now. From the Trade Paperback edition.
Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.
Download or read book Surfing Photographs from the Seventies written by Jeff Divine and published by T. Adler Books. This book was released on 2005 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing Photographs from the Seventies Taken by Jeff Divine~ISBN 1-890481-23-8 U.S. $40.00 / Hardcover, 12.5 x 9.5 in. / 96 pgs / 94 color. ~Item / March / Photography Yes, I had long hair. And Pendletons... but our prize possessions were our garage-made surfboards all lined up in the side yard. They mattered the most. --Jeff Divine
Download or read book Surf s Up written by Louise Southerden and published by Ballantine Books. This book was released on 2009-01-21 with total page 273 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: CATCH THE WAVE Have you always thought surfing looks like so much fun but lacked the confidence to try it? Do you dream of having sun-bleached hair and surf-toned arms? Maybe you’d like to join those surfers you watch from the comfort of your beach towel? With women’s surfing booming as never before, now is the perfect time to grab a board and get out there! If you’re a girl who longs to mix it up with the boys in the surf, carve graceful lines across the face of a wave, and feel the exhilaration of surfing, this book is for you. Surf’s Up has it all, including • what to look for when buying a surfboard • how to find the right waves • how to paddle out, catch waves, stand up, and turn your board • a colorful history of women’s surfing, from Gidget to Beachley • where to find North America’s dream surfing spots Writing with the passion that comes from living the surfing life for more than fifteen years, Louise Southerden brings her love of surfing to every page, offering a glimpse of surfing subculture, surf lingo, the rules of the waves, and helpful tips from other surfer girls who have survived the learning-to-surf journey. Surf’s Up is encouraging and empowering: a book no surfer girl should be without!
Download or read book Surfing Illustrated written by John Robison and published by McGraw Hill Professional. This book was released on 2010-04-16 with total page 177 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Expert instruction you need to take your skills from kook to boss Author John Robison uses hundreds of pictures--comical, cartoon-like drawings--to clearly illustrateevery aspect of surfing: wave dynamics, riding techniques,etiquette, logistics, and more. This entertaining,easy-to-understand visual presentation makes it easyfor you to pick up his techniques and use themon the waves. Robison covers every aspect of thesport, from paddling out through the surf zone andcatching and riding that first wave to nose riding, acrobatics,shortboard riding, and to equipment repairs.
