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Book Cocaine   Surfing

    Book Details:
  • Author : Chas Smith
  • Publisher : Rare Bird Books
  • Release : 2019-12-11
  • ISBN : 9781644280331
  • Pages : 188 pages

Download or read book Cocaine Surfing written by Chas Smith and published by Rare Bird Books. This book was released on 2019-12-11 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.

Book Reports from Hell

    Book Details:
  • Author : Chas Smith
  • Publisher :
  • Release : 2020
  • ISBN : 9781644280751
  • Pages : 0 pages

Download or read book Reports from Hell written by Chas Smith and published by . This book was released on 2020 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction and Cocaine + Surfing A gonzo ride through the Middle East as only Chas Smith, the award-winning author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell and Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair, could provide. Follow Smith and his misfit band of merrymakers as they search for the true origins of Al Qaeda and endeavor to ride the unsurfed waves of Yemen all while exploring the slim opportunities for fun in the margins of our global war on terror and at what cost--even if it means eventual kidnapping by Hezbollah.

Book Surfing

    Book Details:
  • Author :
  • Publisher :
  • Release : 1991
  • ISBN :
  • Pages : 126 pages

Download or read book Surfing written by and published by . This book was released on 1991 with total page 126 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Samira Surfs

    Book Details:
  • Author : Rukhsanna Guidroz
  • Publisher : Penguin
  • Release : 2021-06-29
  • ISBN : 1984816209
  • Pages : 417 pages

Download or read book Samira Surfs written by Rukhsanna Guidroz and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2021-06-29 with total page 417 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A middle grade novel in verse about Samira, an eleven-year-old Rohingya refugee living in Cox's Bazar, Bangladesh, who finds strength and sisterhood in a local surf club for girls. Samira thinks of her life as before and after: before the burning and violence in her village in Burma, when she and her best friend would play in the fields, and after, when her family was forced to flee. There's before the uncertain journey to Bangladesh by river, and after, when the river swallowed her nana and nani whole. And now, months after rebuilding a life in Bangladesh with her mama, baba, and brother, there's before Samira saw the Bengali surfer girls of Cox's Bazar, and after, when she decides she'll become one. Samira Surfs, written by Rukhsanna Guidroz with illustrations by Fahmida Azim, is a tender novel in verse about a young Rohingya girl's journey from isolation and persecution to sisterhood, and from fear to power.

Book Surf Shacks

Download or read book Surf Shacks written by Matt Titone and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2017 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many abodes can fall under the label of surf shack: New York City apartments, cabins nestled next to national parks, or tiny Hawaiian huts. Surfing communities are overflowing with creativity, innovation, and rich personas. Surf Shacks takes a deeper look at surfers' homes and artistic habits. Glimpses of record collections, strolls through backyard gardens, or a peek into a painter's studio provide insight into surfers' lives both on and off shore. From the remote Hawaiian nook of filmmaker Jess Bianchi to the woodsy Japanese paradise that the former CEO of Surfrider Foundation in Japan, Hiromi Masubara, calls home to the converted bus that Ryan Lovelace claims as his domicile and his transport, every space has a unique tale. The moments that these vibrant personalities spend away from the swell and the froth are both captivating and nuanced.

Book Surfing USA

    Book Details:
  • Author : Jeff Divine, Ben Marcus
  • Publisher :
  • Release :
  • ISBN : 9781610606868
  • Pages : 216 pages

Download or read book Surfing USA written by Jeff Divine, Ben Marcus and published by . This book was released on with total page 216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Classic Horror Collection Vol 2  The Turn of the Screw The Call of Cthulhu  Carmilla  The King in Yellow     Golden Deer Classics

Download or read book Classic Horror Collection Vol 2 The Turn of the Screw The Call of Cthulhu Carmilla The King in Yellow Golden Deer Classics written by Edgar Allan Poe and published by Oregan Publishing. This book was released on 2012-11-17 with total page 1281 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This Classic Horror Collection is the ultimate book bundle for readers of classic gothic, vampire, horror and science fiction. Each masterful novel in this collection has inspired numerous adaptations, re-imaginings, and even whole genres of fiction. This collection contains: • The Willows by Algernon Blackwood • The King in Yellow by Robert William Chambers • The House on the Borderland by William Hope Hodgson • The Turn of the Screw by Henry James • Ghost Stories of an Antiquary by Montague Rhodes James • The Fall of the House of Usher by Edgar Allan Poe • Carmilla by Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu • The Call of Cthulhu by H. P. Lovecraft • The White People by Arthur Machen • William Wilson by Edgar Allan Poe • The Jewel of Seven Stars by Bram Stoker Also available Classic Horror Collection Vol 1: Dracula, Frankenstein, The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, Jekyll and Hyde... (Golden Deer Classics)

Book Under the Wave at Waimea

Download or read book Under the Wave at Waimea written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2021 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.

Book Surfing

    Book Details:
  • Author : Ben Marcus
  • Publisher :
  • Release : 2013-03-05
  • ISBN : 0760344515
  • Pages : 210 pages

Download or read book Surfing written by Ben Marcus and published by . This book was released on 2013-03-05 with total page 210 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: First published as Surfing USA! in 2005.

Book Barbarian Days

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Book Dawn Patrol

    Book Details:
  • Author : Don Winslow
  • Publisher : Vintage Crime/Black Lizard
  • Release : 2011-05-18
  • ISBN : 0307793796
  • Pages : 322 pages

Download or read book Dawn Patrol written by Don Winslow and published by Vintage Crime/Black Lizard. This book was released on 2011-05-18 with total page 322 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Savages (now an Oliver Stone film). As cool as its California surfer heroes, Don Winslow delivers a high velocity, darkly comic, and totally righteous crime novel. Every morning Boone Daniels catches waves with the other members of The Dawn Patrol: four men and one woman as single-minded about surfing as he is. Or nearly. They have "real j-o-b-s"; Boone, however, works as a PI just enough to keep himself afloat. But Boone's most recent gig-investigating an insurance scam—has unexpectedly led him to a ghost from his past. And while he may have to miss the biggest swell of his surfing career, this job is about to give him a wilder ride than anything he's ever encountered. Filled with killer waves and a coast line to break your heart, The Dawn Patrol will leave you gasping for air.

Book Surfer

    Book Details:
  • Author :
  • Publisher :
  • Release : 2000
  • ISBN :
  • Pages : 1112 pages

Download or read book Surfer written by and published by . This book was released on 2000 with total page 1112 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Book Surf Is Where You Find It

Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2015-04-17 with total page 571 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

Book Godspeed

    Book Details:
  • Author : Britt Merrick
  • Publisher : David C Cook
  • Release : 2012-06-01
  • ISBN : 1434705013
  • Pages : 215 pages

Download or read book Godspeed written by Britt Merrick and published by David C Cook. This book was released on 2012-06-01 with total page 215 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Have you ever felt like there’s a higher calling for your life? Something more than the mundane weekly routine of work, eat, sleep, play, and church? In Godspeed, Britt Merrick challenges us to step out of our little, self-centered lives and step into God’s grand mission—His plan to restore, redeem, and renew the world. Your heart has been aching for something more, and this is it. Join His mission and change the world.

Book The Surfing Yearbook

Download or read book The Surfing Yearbook written by Bruce Boal and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2009-05 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: THE SURFING YEAR BOOK OFFERS the complete package of news, features, results, opinions, and photography, providing an insider's view of everything that matters in each of the world's surfing regions-Africa, Europe, Southeast Asia and Japan, South and Central America, United States, United Kingdom, and Australia. An extended Surfing Year Book awareness campaign is underway at Surfersvillage.com, the world's biggest surfing news Web site, with more than twenty-two million visitor sessions a year. Surfersvillage will also utilize its large family of publishing partners around the world to advertise the book's arrival in all surfing markets. With each regional section offering text in English and language of origin, the book will have broad appeal in all world surfing markets. Photo essays from the best surf photographers around the world; profiles of all the leading surfers of 2008. Ocean environmental issues, weather, and swell reports. The only global directory of surfing products and services. International sponsors include: O'Neill, Quiksilver, Vans Europe, Oakley Europe, Solitude, Billabong, Hurley, Rip Curl, and Body Glove. Online marketing and promotions. Print and web advertising campaign. Co-op available. For years, Surfersvillage has led the world in providing the most comprehensive online information about the sport, culture, and industry of surfing, from the biggest swell events and contests to the tiniest club meets on the back beaches of the most remote coasts.

Book Orange Coast Magazine

Download or read book Orange Coast Magazine written by and published by . This book was released on 1989-02 with total page 226 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Orange Coast Magazine is the oldest continuously published lifestyle magazine in the region, bringing together Orange County¹s most affluent coastal communities through smart, fun, and timely editorial content, as well as compelling photographs and design. Each issue features an award-winning blend of celebrity and newsmaker profiles, service journalism, and authoritative articles on dining, fashion, home design, and travel. As Orange County¹s only paid subscription lifestyle magazine with circulation figures guaranteed by the Audit Bureau of Circulation, Orange Coast is the definitive guidebook into the county¹s luxe lifestyle.

Book The Skateboarder s Journal   Lives on Board

Download or read book The Skateboarder s Journal Lives on Board written by and published by Jack Smith. This book was released on 2009 with total page 333 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "A piece of wood, two trucks, four wheels ... a skateboard. You start by rolling down a sidewalk, and end up rolling through life. For some the ride stops at the end of the street; for others the ride never ends. This book was written by those for whom the ride is never-ending: by the 15-year-old grom who falls asleep dreaming of skateboarding; by the 40-something "pad dad" you see at the local skatepark; by the women whose stories have never been told; and by the 73-year-old architect who didn't begin skateboarding until the age of 65. Over 170 stories and 200+ photographs. The 'everyman/everywoman' are accompanied by contributions from some 'notable' skateboarders, and other personalities from the skateboard world ... Some of the great skateboarding photographers have graciously contributed to the book."--Description from www.amazon.com