Download or read book Surfing Life Waves written by Bradley Hook and published by . This book was released on 2012-12 with total page 72 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: We are surrounded by waves: from light, sound, electrical and micro waves through to the quantum waves that underpin our reality. Amidst all this wave activity it's easy to draw a comparison between the physical waves we know so well and the experiential waves - or opportunities - that colour our existence. Waves of opportunity for happiness, success, love, failure, adventure and a spectrum of enriching experiences swirl constantly around us. The approach of the surfer - arguably the world's foremost experts in waves - provides a metaphor for embracing your life waves with passion, commitment, detachment, flow and fun. There are waves breaking everywhere. How you choose to find and ride them is up to you.
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book Mop Rides the Waves of Life written by Jaimal Yogis and published by Parallax Press. This book was released on 2020-06-30 with total page 46 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A charming story book about emotions and mindfulness, featuring easy breathing exercises to help kids ages 5-8 navigate daily highs and lows. Being teased for your ‘funny’ hair is hard—but when little surfer Mop studies the lessons of the waves, he learns how to bring the mindfulness and joy of surfing into his whole life. Going to school and navigating classmates can be hard—but all that goes away when little surfer Mop paddles out in the waves. With a few tips from his clever mom, Mop studies the wisdom of the water and learns to bring it into his life on land: taking deep breaths, letting the tough waves pass, and riding the good ones all the way. With newfound awareness and courage, Mop heads back to land—and school—to surf the waves of life. Celebrated San Francisco surfer-journalist-dad Jaimal Yogis teaches 4-8 year olds timeless beach wisdom with the story of Mop, a sensitive and fun-loving kid who just wants to be in the ocean.
Download or read book Annie and the Waves written by Louise Lambeth and published by Publicious Pty Limited. This book was released on 2020-02-03 with total page 42 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Annie and the Waves is a book aimed to teach children and their caregivers about how to stay safe at the beach. As you read this book you will learn: Surf lifesavers wear red and yellow You should always swim between the red and yellow flags Some beaches are safer than others There are different kinds of waves, some are safer than others If you get into trouble, stay calm and raise your hand to show the surf lifesavers you need help. Be sun safe at the beach. Wear a hat and a rashie and don't forget to put on sunscreen before you go out in the sun And..... You should never go into the water alone!
Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Mariner Books. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockaway is the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockaway is a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.
Download or read book After Surfing Ocean Beach written by Mary Soderstrom and published by Dundurn. This book was released on 2004-04-27 with total page 228 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Rick doesn't have time to think. He plunges his knife into the stranger's gut, believing he is defending himself from an attacker. But Rick is wrong about the man's intentions, and as he flees the scene, the innocent man bleeds to death, leaving Rick horrified by what he has done. It is a moment of panic that changes Rick's life forever. It is also a moment that brings Rick face to face with his past, as we soon discover that the slain man was not a stranger after all.
Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 342 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Download or read book Cold New World written by William Finnegan and published by Modern Library. This book was released on 2010-09-29 with total page 449 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the Pulitzer Prize–winning author of Barbarian Days, this narrative nonfiction classic documents the rising inequality and cultural alienation that presaged the crises of today. “A status report on the American Dream [that] gets its power [from] the unpredictable, rich specifics of people’s lives.”—Time “[William] Finnegan’s real achievement is to attach identities to the steady stream of faceless statistics that tell us America’s social problems are more serious than we want to believe.”—The Washington Post A fifteen-year-old drug dealer in blighted New Haven, Connecticut; a sleepy Texas town transformed by crack; Mexican American teenagers in Washington State, unable to relate to their immigrant parents and trying to find an identity in gangs; jobless young white supremacists in a downwardly mobile L.A. suburb. William Finnegan spent years embedded with families in four communities across the country to become an intimate observer of the lives he reveals in Cold New World. What emerges from these beautifully rendered portraits is a prescient and compassionate book that never loses sight of its subjects’ humanity. A NEW YORK TIMES NOTABLE BOOK • A LOS ANGELES TIMES BEST NONFICTION SELECTION Praise for Cold New World “Unlike most journalists who drop in for a quick interview and fly back out again, Finnegan spent many weeks with families in each community over a period of several years, enough time to distinguish between the kind of short-term problems that can beset anyone and the longer-term systemic poverty and social disintegration that can pound an entire generation into a groove of despair.”—Los Angeles Times Book Review “The most remarkable of William Finnegan’s many literary gifts is his compassion. Not the fact of it, which we have a right to expect from any personal reporting about the oppressed, but its coolness, its clarity, its ductile strength. . . . Finnegan writes like a dream. His prose is unfailingly lucid, graceful, and specific, his characterization effortless, and the pull of his narrative pure seduction.”—The Village Voice “Four astonishingly intimate and evocative portraits. . . . All of these stories are vividly, honestly and compassionately told. . . . While Cold New World may make us look in new ways at our young people, perhaps its real goal is to make us look at ourselves.”—The Philadelphia Inquirer
Download or read book Swell written by Evan Slater and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2012-05-09 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.
Download or read book Surfer Girl written by Sanoe Lake and published by Little Brown & Company. This book was released on 2005 with total page 143 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discusses the basics of surfing for teenage girls, including equipment, safety, practical surfing attire, and fundamental surfing moves.
Download or read book Wave Woman the Life and Struggles of a Surfing Pioneer written by Vicky Durand and published by R. R. Bowker. This book was released on 2020-11-16 with total page 294 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Philosophy defines the dynamic and hard-fought life of Betty Pembroke Heldreich who believed that anything exciting was worth trying at least once. When her airplane went down, the young pilot got back up. Wave Woman is a charming and intimate biography, a love letter from a daughter to her progressive mother who broke glass ceilings with simple curiosity and desire. Betty trained to swim in the 1936 Olympic Games. She eloped on a hunch and learned the tough lessons of love. With an entrepreneurial creativity and a drive for self-sufficiency, Betty found meaning as a sculptor, a dental hygienist, a jeweler, a fisherwoman, a potter and a poet. ? In Hawaii, the thrill of big waves crashing at Makaha Beach inspired the 41-year-old mother to pick up a surfboard, conquer her fears and compete as a champion! ? Wave Woman speaks clearly to all women-and men-searching for self-confidence, fulfillment and true happiness."Morph together Amelia Earhart, Frida Kahlo, Emily Dickinson and Esther Williams and you have Betty Pembroke Heldreich Winstedt-a 20th-century Wonder Woman."-Ben Marcus, former editor of Surfer Magazine"Wave Woman Betty Heldreich is the kind of person I admire-women and men who are one hundred percent, authentically themselves. I am inspired by her positive resilience and passion for life."-Carissa Moore, pro surfer and Women's World Tour Champion
Download or read book The Surfer and the Sage written by Noah benShea and published by Abrams. This book was released on 2022-06-07 with total page 206 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sometimes life’s waves knock you down; other times, life might seem to sweep you along powerless. But the choice is always yours to swim back up to the light. Legendary world champion surfer Shaun Tomson and international bestselling poet-philosopher Noah benShea join forces to offer you insight on a path of purpose, hope, and faith. This timely guidebook alternates between Tomson’s inspiring experiential essays and benShea’s spiritual commentary that lift the soul, all accented with stunning full-color surfing photographs. After losing his son, Tomson walked the bitter road of loss and crossed from darkness into the light. The Surfer and the Sage addresses the eighteen relentless, breaking waves of life, from loss and aging to relationships and depression, and guides you to transformation. It is not a list of rules to follow that guarantee success, health, or wealth, but rather a collection of advice from two guides who have traveled far and wide and suffered deeply, but still look forward to tomorrow with faith and hope.
Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2015-04-17 with total page 571 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.
Download or read book Waking Up in the Sea written by Derek Dunfee and published by . This book was released on 2021-04-13 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: WAKING UP IN THE SEABy Derek DunfeeFormat: HardcoverTrim Size: 8.5 x 11308pgs.Professional big wave surfer/ Photographer/ AuthorI go into detail about surfing and chasing big waves around the world, I also open up about how the concussions and trauma I suffered from big wave surfing impacts me everyday. You'll have a better understanding of why I don't surf big waves any more. I've never told this particular story and I'm excited to share.
Download or read book Surf Science written by Tony Butt and published by Alison Hodge Publishers. This book was released on 2014-03-25 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don’t need a scientific background to read it – just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
Download or read book Surfing Life Waves Russian Edition written by Bradley Hook and published by inHorizon Media. This book was released on 2013-12 with total page 100 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing Life Waves (in Russian) explores using surfing as a philosophy for living life. The book features beautiful surf photography and takes the reader through various stages of the surfing experience, from paddling out to catching the ultimate wave. It is the perfect book for anyone who loves the ocean lifestyle. There are waves of opportunity for happiness, success, love, failure and adventure all around us. Using the approach of the surfer you will learn how you can make the most of the waves that crash into your life.
Download or read book Waves written by Drew Kampion and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2005 with total page 79 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Captures the thrill of the ocean's energy in amazing photographs, awesomertwork, and out-of-this-world facts.
