Download or read book Salty Sleepy Surfery Rhymes written by and published by . This book was released on 2017-09-15 with total page 64 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surf poems and drawings

Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Mariner Books. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockaway is the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockaway is a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.

Download or read book Swell written by Evan Slater and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2012-05-09 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Download or read book Mop Rides the Waves of Life written by Jaimal Yogis and published by Parallax Press. This book was released on 2020-06-30 with total page 46 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A charming story book about emotions and mindfulness, featuring easy breathing exercises to help kids ages 5-8 navigate daily highs and lows. Being teased for your ‘funny’ hair is hard—but when little surfer Mop studies the lessons of the waves, he learns how to bring the mindfulness and joy of surfing into his whole life. Going to school and navigating classmates can be hard—but all that goes away when little surfer Mop paddles out in the waves. With a few tips from his clever mom, Mop studies the wisdom of the water and learns to bring it into his life on land: taking deep breaths, letting the tough waves pass, and riding the good ones all the way. With newfound awareness and courage, Mop heads back to land—and school—to surf the waves of life. Celebrated San Francisco surfer-journalist-dad Jaimal Yogis teaches 4-8 year olds timeless beach wisdom with the story of Mop, a sensitive and fun-loving kid who just wants to be in the ocean.

Download or read book Saltwater Buddha written by Jaimal Yogis and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2009-04-10 with total page 265 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.

Download or read book Surf Diva written by Izzy Tihanyi and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The founders of a surf school for women provide both a practical how-to guide to the sport of surfing and a witty look at the surfing lifestyle, integrating advice from professional surfers and tips on how to stay safe while having fun.

Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2010-09 with total page 498 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

Download or read book Surfer s Code written by Patrick J. Moser and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2009-09 with total page 194 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life, world champion surfer Shaun Tomson shares the life lessons he's gathered from decades of surfing-from his boyhood adventures in South Africa to the world tour in the late 1970s to the business world today. For Tomson, surfing is a hobby, a sport, a religion, an obsession and more-it is a way of life. Tomson's life lessons have guided his career to the top of both professional competition and the world of business. Now, he shares these powerful lessons, born on the world's best swells, with all people-including those who might never step on a surfboard. These lessons are born of the collective wisdom of the surf community and are a powerful source of inspiration in the face of extraordinary challenges of every day life.

Download or read book Wild Sea written by Serge Dedina and published by University of Arizona Press. This book was released on 2011-03-15 with total page 172 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many people have lamented the pollution and outright loss of beaches along the coasts of California and Mexico, but very few people have fought on behalf of beaches as hardÑor as successfullyÑas Serge Dedina. Whether taking on an international conglomerate or tackling a state transportation agency, Dedina is truly an eco-warrior. In this sparkling collection of articles, many written for popular magazines, Dedina tells the stories as only an insider could. He writes with a firm grasp of facts along with an advocateÕs passion and outrage. Sprinkled with just the right mix of humor and surf lingo, DedinaÕs writing is Òweapons gradeÓÑsurfer speak for totally awesome. Dedina grew up in Imperial Beach, California, just north of the Mexican border, and he feels equally at home in Mexico and the States. An expert on gray whales, he eloquently describes the fight he helped to lead against the Mitsubishi Corporation, whose plan to build a salt-processing plant in the San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja California would have destroyed the worldÕs last undeveloped gray whale lagoon. With similar fervor, Dedina describes helping to construct the unlikely coalition that succeeded in defeating a proposed toll road that would have decimated a legendary California surf spot. In between, he writes about the first surfers in Baja, the Great Baja Land Rush of the 1990s, TijuanaÕs punk music scene, the pop-culture wrestling phenomenon lucha libre, the reasons why ocean pollution must be stopped, and the way HBO took over his hometown. Anyone interested in whatÕs happening to our natural places or just yearning to read about someone really making a difference in the world will find this a book worth sinking their teeth into.

Download or read book Zero Break written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2004 with total page 390 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An anthology of literary pieces and essays on surfing is complemented by classic and modern photographs and artwork and includes Mark Twain's nineteenth-century description in "Roughing It" and Susan Orlean's essay on girl surfers in Maui.

Download or read book Wonder written by Frank C. Keil and published by MIT Press. This book was released on 2022-03-01 with total page 333 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: How we can all be lifelong wonderers: restoring the sense of joy in discovery we felt as children. From an early age, children pepper adults with questions that ask why and how: Why do balloons float? How do plants grow from seeds? Why do birds have feathers? Young children have a powerful drive to learn about their world, wanting to know not just what something is but also how it got to be that way and how it works. Most adults, on the other hand, have little curiosity about whys and hows; we might unlock a door, for example, or boil an egg, with no idea of what happens to make such a thing possible. How can grown-ups recapture a child’s sense of wonder at the world? In this book, Frank Keil describes the cognitive dispositions that set children on their paths of discovery and explains how we can all become lifelong wonderers. Keil describes recent research on children’s minds that reveals an extraordinary set of emerging abilities that underpin their joy of discovery—their need to learn not just the facts but the underlying causal patterns at the very heart of science. This glorious sense of wonder, however, is stifled, beginning in elementary school. Later, with little interest in causal mechanisms, and motivated by intellectual blind spots, as adults we become vulnerable to misinformation and manipulation—ready to believe things that aren’t true. Of course, the polymaths among us have retained their sense of wonder, and Keil explains the habits of mind and ways of wondering that allow them—and can enable us—to experience the joy of asking why and how.

Download or read book Kook written by Peter Heller and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2010-07-13 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Download or read book Surf Like a Girl written by Rebecca Heller and published by Three Rivers Press (CA). This book was released on 2005 with total page 164 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Get in a Surfer State of Mind Whether you live near the ocean or can only dream about being out in the water, you can achieve those sun-kissed locks and cheeks, that stellar physique, and the no-holds-barred spirit of the quintessential surfer girl. Get in the swim with this one-of-a-kind guide to all things surfer, which will answer your questions, including: -How can you find a surf break that's right for you? -Why wear a leash and what does it mean to be goofy footed? -How early in the morning do you really need to get out there? -Can you surf without wrecking a fresh pedicure? -What should you say to a hottie pulling a hang ten? -How do you find a cute bikini that won't fall off when you get worked in the water? "Surf Like a Girl covers all the basics: how to ride the waves, what to wear, safety and etiquette, and loads of advice for the landlocked surfer girl. It's a perfect resource, whether you're about to paddle out and catch a wave or you just want to look like you pulled a wicked cutback.

Download or read book Reports from Hell written by Chas Smith and published by . This book was released on 2020 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction and Cocaine + Surfing A gonzo ride through the Middle East as only Chas Smith, the award-winning author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell and Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair, could provide. Follow Smith and his misfit band of merrymakers as they search for the true origins of Al Qaeda and endeavor to ride the unsurfed waves of Yemen all while exploring the slim opportunities for fun in the margins of our global war on terror and at what cost--even if it means eventual kidnapping by Hezbollah.

Download or read book The Wave written by Susan Casey and published by Random House. This book was released on 2010 with total page 354 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In recent years waves have been recorded which are dramatically larger in size. They have the power to flatten oil rigs and sink supertankers; they seem to disobey the laws of physics, swelling when logic shows they should be running out of steam. These rogue waves have attracted an obsessive following of scientists, who seek to understand them, and of extreme surfers, looking to tame them. The author talks to the climatologists trying to unlock the causes of these waves, and looks at the danger they will wreak on our planet. Guided by Laird Hamilton, big-wave-rider extraordinaire, the author exposes a world of obsession and dare-devil surfing, a world filled with eccentric wave-hunters - both scientists and surfers - who are universally convinced that bigger waves are coming. And that they can ride them.

Download or read book Surf Tribe written by Stephan Vanfleteren and published by . This book was released on 2018 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: - An incomparable new photo book about the international surf culture by Stephan Vanfleteren- Showcases captivating portraits of some of the world's surf iconsWith Surf Tribe, photographer Stephan Vanfleteren shows that there is far more to surf culture than just sport and competition. Surfing is also about a deep admiration and respect for the ocean, as well as the feeling of insignificance when confronted with the forces of nature. Surfers use the waves for fun, but also to forget and to battle, both with others and with themselves. Vanfleteren looks beyond the traditional borders of the United States and Australia and searches the globe for people who live in places where sea and land meet. He documents a fluid community, with nature as its sole leader. He has sought out young talent, living icons, and old legends, both competitive and free surfers. The photographs here are serene black and white portraits in Vanfleteren's well-known, haunting style; as always, he reaches below the surface and goes to the core of his subjects. Included, amongst many others, are Kelly Slater, Gerry Lopez, John Florence, Mickey Munoz, Filipe Toledo and Stephanie Gilmore. Surfer, journalist, and actor Gerry Lopez has contributed the Foreword. Surf Tribe has been exhibited in Knokke-Heist (Belgium), Kunsthal Rotterdam (Netherlands), Gallery Kahmann Amsterdam (Netherlands). The next exhibition will be in June 2019 in France. If you are interested in the stories behind the book, go to: www.surftribe.be