Download or read book The Jersey Surf Diaries written by Nick Honachefsky and published by Stackpole Books. This book was released on 2014-01-01 with total page 384 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Experience the strange and fascinating world of surf-fishing from the perspective of a veteran angler. Based on a ten-year compilation of detailed journals, this personal account will take you on an adrenaline-filled trip to key spots along the Jersey coast and teach you the seasonal strategies, best rigs, and most effective methods for bass, blues, weakfish, sharks, and more.
Download or read book The Neural Surfer s Diary Excerpt One written by and published by MSAC Philosophy Group. This book was released on with total page 24 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Surf Session Diary written by Sierra Bravo and published by . This book was released on 2019-03-27 with total page 139 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Keep a record of all your surf sessions for all your surfing travels and trips. Keep secret spots secret by recording all the info in this essential diary! Makes your next surf even better as you can fine-tune all of the conditions for the perfect session with just your friends when everyone else is missing out! Get more from your surfing with this simple but effective diary, log and journal for every surfer.
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book Caught Inside written by Daniel Duane and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 1997-04-10 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna
Download or read book Diary of a Dying Girl written by Mallory Smith and published by Random House Books for Young Readers. This book was released on 2024-05-07 with total page 393 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This collection of one girl's real, unflinching diary entries about slowly dying of a terminal illness is an unparalleled exploration of the human spirit and what it means to truly live. Many of the feelings I write about are too difficult to share while I'm alive, so I'm keeping everything in my journal password-protected until the end. Mallory Smith was no ordinary girl, and this is no ordinary story. At age three, Mallory was diagnosed with cystic fibrosis--a disease that attacks the internal organs and would eventually kill her. Despite living on borrowed time, Mallory pursued her passions: volleyball; writing; the environment; her boyfriend, family, and friends. Most importantly, every day she chose to embody the mantra "live happy." Mallory also had her struggles--everything from love and sex to living with illness and just being a human on this planet. And she chronicled every bit of it, writing thousands of diary entries before her death in her twenties. This is the poignant, true story of a young woman who refused to be defined by chronic illness. Her light and her life are shared here in her own words to encourage everyone to live life to the fullest, as she did, even as she was dying.
Download or read book Swell written by Liz Clark and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2018-04 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sailing Ten Years and 20,000 Miles In Search of Surf and Self
Download or read book Classification of User Tasks by the User Behavior written by Anne Gutschmidt and published by Logos Verlag Berlin GmbH. This book was released on 2013 with total page 268 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: On-line newspapers have become an important source of information for many people. Readers of on-line newspapers may regularly check the news in general, they may follow the news concerning a certain topic, e.g. when people wanted to get all information that was available on September 11, or they may just check for certain facts such as stock prices or the weather forecast. This thesis deals with the question of whether it is possible to recognize the kind of task a Web user is performing by just looking at the user's behavior. Two studies were conducted to examine whether behavioral aspects, such as mouse and scroll movement, mouse clicks or page view duration, give hint on the surfing mode which may be just browsing, information gathering or fact finding. This thesis is meant to provide a basis for the personalization of Websites such as on-line newspapers where personalization is not only based on the analysis of content information or general topic preferences, but, additionally, on the current context represented by the kind of task a user is performing at the very moment.
Download or read book Surfing Water Is Freedom written by Anthony Pancia and published by . This book was released on 2018 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Russell Ord's spectacular images have won him worldwide recognition, and deservedly so. Based in Western Australia, Russell is renowned for his awesome images of super thick empty peaks and heavy sessions at reefs like The Box and The Right. You can pick up any surf magazine in the country and find Russell's work on the front and back covers, and filling out entire spreads and the pages in between. In 'Surfing: Water is Freedom', Russell teams with noted local writer Anthony Pancia to tell the story 'behind the waves', the people who surf them, those who make their livelihoods from them, and who follow the culture with a passion. It is an extraordinary book for the new millennium. And Anthony Pancia's words bring the images to life with wonderful stories of passion and adventure. Russell Ord's photography stands alone. Nobody else in the world swims in the heaviest slab waves in the world, putting life, limb on the line to capture such dramatic & fantastically composed photos
Download or read book The Neural Surfer written by David Christopher Lane and published by Lulu.com. This book was released on 2008-04 with total page 125 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book On Diary written by Philippe Lejeune and published by University of Hawaii Press. This book was released on 2009-04-30 with total page 362 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: On Diary is the second collection in English of the groundbreaking and profoundly influential work of one of the best-known and provocative theorists of autobiography and diary. Ranging from the diary’s historical origins to its pervasive presence on the Internet, from the spiritual journey of the sixteenth century to the diary of Anne Frank, and from the materials and methods of diary writing to the question of how diaries end, these essays display Philippe Lejeune’s expertise, eloquence, passion, and humor as a commentator on the functions, practices, and significance of keeping or reading a diary. Lejeune is a leading European critic and theorist of diary and autobiography. His landmark essay, "The Autobiographical Pact," has shaped life writing studies for more than thirty years, and his many books and essays have repeatedly opened up new vistas for scholarship. As Michael Riffaterre notes, "Lejeune’s work on autobiography is the most original, powerful, effective approach to a difficult subject. . . . His style is very personal, lively. It grabs the reader as scholarship rarely does. Lejeune’s erudition and methodology are impeccable." Two substantial introductory essays by Jeremy Popkin and Julie Rak place Lejeune’s work within its critical and theoretical traditions and comment on his central importance within the fields of life writing, literary genetic studies, and cultural studies.
Download or read book The Beach Boys written by Keith Badman and published by Hal Leonard Corporation. This book was released on 2004 with total page 444 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Presents an account of the rise of the Beach Boys and sheds light on their rivalry with the Beatles, the release of the influential "Pet Sounds" album, and the nervous breakdown of Brian Wilson, the group's creative genius.
Download or read book Surf Session Diary Travel Version 6x9 A5 written by Stephen Beale and published by . This book was released on 2019-03-09 with total page 123 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This handy guide and companion for surfers at home and abroad can help them to fine-tune conditions for their local spot and new ones by logging and journaling about the swell, wind, tide and waves! Don't miss another epic swell at breaks new and familiar. This perfect gift for surfing enthusiasts young and old, whatever their level is a must have and will travel well given its pocket size of 6x9 (A5). It has over 140 pages so you can log surf sessions to your heart's content!
Download or read book Surfing and Social Theory written by Nick Ford and published by Taylor & Francis. This book was released on 2006 with total page 220 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Drawing on popular surf culture, academic literature and the analytical tools of social theory, this is the first sustained commentary on the contemporary social and cultural meaning of surfing, exploring mind and body, emotions, and aesthetics.
Download or read book The Los Diaries written by Mark Jones and published by Booksmango. This book was released on 2012-07-11 with total page 95 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is the first part of a reflective account of my experiences in Thailand over the past seventeen years. It is an account of someone who has journeyed two different paths; that of a professional diving instructor and, later, a whoremonger. It is a story of a journey from an initially carefree, idyllic, adventurous lifestyle in an island paradise, to the harsh reality of the urban environments of Bangkok and Pattaya. It is a story of a journey into the dark side of life in Thailand and a realization that there’s a hardness and ruthlessness in that dark side which, when you’ve lived here for seventeen years offers you nothing in return except a world largely devoid of integrity, honesty and sincerity. It is my story and it is, like those of so many other foreigners who settle in this land, a story of a roller coaster ride through adventure, hardship and endurance. It’s also a story of mateship, something which is a rare commodity in this day and age. I make no apologies for what you’ll read beyond this page. You may be humored, shocked and even angered but, ultimately, you’ll come to realize that there is no other country in the world like the Land Of Smiles. These are the LOS diaries.
Download or read book Saltwater in the Blood written by Easkey Britton and published by Watkins Media Limited. This book was released on 2021-09-28 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Powerful feminist nature writing by the pioneer of women's big-wave surfing in Ireland. Easkey Britton provides a rare female perspective on surfing, exploring the mental skills it fosters, and the need to recognize the value of the ocean and of nature's cycles in our lives. This is an incredibly inspiring exploration of the sea's role in the wellness of people and the planet, beautifully written by Easkey Britton – surfer, scientist and social activist. She offers a powerful female perspective on the sea and surfing, explaining what it’s like to be a woman in a man's world and how she promoted the sport to women in Iran, surfing while wearing a hijab. She speaks of the undiscussed taboo around entering the water while menstruating – and of how she has come to celebrate her own bodily cycles. She has developed her own approach to surfing, which instead of seeking to dominate the waves, works in tune with the natural cycles of her body, the moon and the seasons. In a society that rewards busyness, she believes that understanding the influence of cycles becomes even more important – and we all have them, men and women. For Easkey, the sea is a source of mental and physical wellbeing. She explores the mental toughness needed in big-wave surfing, and presents surfing as an embodied mindfulness practice in which we can find flow and connect with the movement of the waves. She stresses the need to recognize the ocean as our most powerful ally when addressing our greatest global challenge: the climate crisis. Above all, Easkey’s relationship to the sea has taught her about the need to meet life and evolve with it, rather than seeking to control it. By such wisdom our planet might just survive and thrive.
Download or read book Salty Sleepy Surfery Rhymes written by and published by . This book was released on 2017-09-15 with total page 64 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surf poems and drawings
