Download or read book Surf for Your Life written by Mick Fanning and published by Random House Australia. This book was released on 2011 with total page 370 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Mick Fanning might only be 28 but he already knows how a lot of things feel that most of us never will. Mick has overcome personal tragedy and career-threatening injury on his way to claiming the 2007 world surfing title. Mick tells his life story candidly - in turns funny, sensitive, thoughtful, self-deprecating - while providing intimate insights into the personal lessons gained along the way - with practical tips on surfing technique, fitness, nutrition, board design, travel, competitive strategies and mental clarity. Universally acknowledged as the most focused and driven competitive surfer of his era, Mick's approach to surfing, sports psychology, life and relationships, makes fascinating reading.
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book Surf for Your Life written by Mick Fanning and published by Random House Australia. This book was released on 2010 with total page 130 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Before the two world titles, before the sponsorships, before the jet-setting life on the world tour, being paid to do the thing you love most: weaving through zippering Superbank barrels and paddling over the ledge at places like Pipline and Teahupo'o.
Download or read book Surf for Your Life written by and published by . This book was released on 2015 with total page 368 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book High Surf written by Tim Baker and published by HarperCollins Australia. This book was released on 2010-06-01 with total page 39 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Inspiring stories from an eclectic cast of surfers 'tim Baker may well be the most brilliant and incisive surf writer working today, or on any givenday for the last twenty years.' worldprosurfers.com Leading surf journalist tim Baker has profiled the surfing world's most inspiring characters, encountered over two decades of surf writing, to highlight the life lessons and boundless inspiration to be gained from a lifestyle built around waveriding. From salty old surf legends to modern pro-surf stars, to surfers from all walks of life - writers, musicians, aid workers, ethicists - the common theme in all these surfers' lives is how their personal journeys have been shaped and informed by their experiences in the ocean. 'I think one of the most powerful outcomes of surfing is how it creates community and shared experiences across all sections of society. Surfing is a lingua franca of nature. Even dolphins and other sea creatures surf.' Vezen Wu, scientist 'Just the feeling of the water on you, diving and paddling, duck-diving your first wave, seeing a set come, turning around and stroking into it, that initial rush as you drop down the face, the jolts of acceleration as you go through the manoeuvres - there's nothing like it. the only thing that actually comes close to riding waves is sex.' Mark Richards, four-time world surfing champion 5% of author royalties from this book will be distributed to the following charities: Surf Aid International; Disabled Surfers Association; Life Rolls On; Surfers Healing; Surfrider Foundation
Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.
Download or read book Surfing and the Meaning of Life written by Ben Marcus and published by Voyageur Press (MN). This book was released on 2006 with total page 96 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Ninety full-color and black-and-white photographs, along with reflections, observations, wit, and wisdom by some of the sport's leading practitioners, including Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, capture the culture of surfing.
Download or read book Surfing Life Waves Russian Edition written by Bradley Hook and published by inHorizon Media. This book was released on 2013-12 with total page 100 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing Life Waves (in Russian) explores using surfing as a philosophy for living life. The book features beautiful surf photography and takes the reader through various stages of the surfing experience, from paddling out to catching the ultimate wave. It is the perfect book for anyone who loves the ocean lifestyle. There are waves of opportunity for happiness, success, love, failure and adventure all around us. Using the approach of the surfer you will learn how you can make the most of the waves that crash into your life.
Download or read book Aussie Surfing Heroes written by Mark Occhilupo and published by Random House Australia. This book was released on 2011-11-30 with total page 688 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Two surfing legends in one book! Occy is the magically talented child star who crashed and burned, then miraculous crawled from the wreckage to claim his destiny. Mick is the ferociously determined, disciplined athlete, who overcame personal tragedy and devastating injury to pursue his dreams. Australian surfing has produced many great champions, but few have overcome so much, and inspired so many, as Mark Occhilupo and Mick Fanning. Though dramatically contrasting characters, Occy and Mick's life stories both serve as powerful primers in the power of dreams, the importance of never giving up, and the courage required to claw your way out of the deepest trough and climb all the way up to the highest peak. Occy : the Rise and Fall and Rise of Mark Occhilupo and Mick Fanning's Surf For Your Life, both written together with renowned surf writer Tim Baker, have become modern Australian classics, within the surfing community and beyond. They have inspired elite athletes from all walks of life, launched innumerable grommets on their first forays into the surf and spurred countless mature age surfers to get off the couch and back into the waves. Now combined into an inspirational omnibus, Occy and Surf For Your Life, are essential reading for anyone wanting to overcome adversity, blast through their personal limits and achieve their goals.
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2015-07-21 with total page 384 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book Be Surf written by Sara Dyer and published by Finette Press. This book was released on 2021-03-05 with total page 71 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Cold water surfer Sara Dyer distills lessons learned through her time surfing the coast of New England and beyond in this brief manual for living and being. With candor, wit and good vibes, she offers bite-sized anecdotes, reflections and challenges on living our best lives on and off the water. A treasure trove of advice for both surfers and general lovers of wildness and living an authentic life, readers will keep this in their pocket for inspiration to dive in when they’re feeling resistance, be it cold water or any challenge in life.
Download or read book Surf When You Can written by Captain Brett Crozier and published by Heligo Books. This book was released on 2023-06-13 with total page 198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Amid one of the darkest times in American history, it was a moment that captured the attention of the nation. Brett Crozier, captain of the most powerful and prestigious aircraft carrier in the United States Navy, walked off his ship for the last time while thousands of his sailors saluted and chanted his name in admiration. This remarkable moment occurred after Crozier made the decision to try to protect his sailors by pleading with his superiors for help when COVID-19 swept through the vessel. Two days later, he was relieved of command. Now, Crozier reflects on his life, career, and commitment to doing the right thing in a book that celebrates the power of kindness, the importance of teamwork, and the value of standing up for what you believe in. Through a series of captivating stories set all around the world, Crozier takes us along on the grand adventures of his extraordinary career and introduces the incredible people he met along the way. From his days as fighter pilot facing near-death experiences to commandeering suspected pirate vessels in the Persian Gulf, and of course, seizing any opportunity to enjoy one of his favorite hobbies-surfing-Crozier distills the lessons he has learned and the principles that have guided him, showing how you can apply them to your personal and professional life.
Download or read book The Lost Coast written by Drew Kampion and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2004 with total page 216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: As energy passing through matter organizes matter, so years of intimacy with the ocean and its waves organizes and alters the perceptions of the surfer. The lulls, sets, and rogue waves; the briny stew in which they tumble and struggle; the continual oscillations of reflective surfaces under shifting skies; the lurking presence of "The Landlord" -- all of this alters the senses while it educates the surfer, revealing the laws of the universe on a scale that can be engaged and understood. This collection of stories will pull you into the world of the surfer -- capturing your emotion and engaging your mind. As varied as the patterns of waves, these stories reveal the joy, fear, longing, and ever-present questions of human emotion and existence. Book jacket.
Download or read book Da Bull written by Greg Noll and published by North Atlantic Books. This book was released on 1989 with total page 228 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Pioneer big-wave surfer, Greg Noll, was called Da Bull by his fellow surfers for his stubborn, straightforward and aggressive approach to the sport. His approach to life in general wasn't much different. His life revolved around surfing and everything the sport engendered. He made surfboards and surf films. He pioneered modern surfing in Australia. He discovered Mazatlan as a surf spot. He as the first to ride the fear-some waves at Waimea Bay and Outside Pipeline on Oahu's North Shore. He brawled and caroused with men, charmed and entertained women. Above all, he was Da Bull, one of the bravest and best of the big wave riders of his or anyone's era."--Amazon.com
Download or read book Surf s Up written by Louise Southerden and published by Ballantine Books. This book was released on 2009-01-21 with total page 273 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: CATCH THE WAVE Have you always thought surfing looks like so much fun but lacked the confidence to try it? Do you dream of having sun-bleached hair and surf-toned arms? Maybe you’d like to join those surfers you watch from the comfort of your beach towel? With women’s surfing booming as never before, now is the perfect time to grab a board and get out there! If you’re a girl who longs to mix it up with the boys in the surf, carve graceful lines across the face of a wave, and feel the exhilaration of surfing, this book is for you. Surf’s Up has it all, including • what to look for when buying a surfboard • how to find the right waves • how to paddle out, catch waves, stand up, and turn your board • a colorful history of women’s surfing, from Gidget to Beachley • where to find North America’s dream surfing spots Writing with the passion that comes from living the surfing life for more than fifteen years, Louise Southerden brings her love of surfing to every page, offering a glimpse of surfing subculture, surf lingo, the rules of the waves, and helpful tips from other surfer girls who have survived the learning-to-surf journey. Surf’s Up is encouraging and empowering: a book no surfer girl should be without!
Download or read book Your Life in Web Apps written by Giles Turnbull and published by "O'Reilly Media, Inc.". This book was released on 2006-06-21 with total page 22 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: What is a web app? It's software that you use right in your web browser. Rather than installing an application on your computer, you visit a web site and sign up as a new user of its software. Instead of storing your files on your own hard disk, the web app stores them for you, online. Is it possible to switch entirely to web apps? To run nothing but a browser for an entire day? In this PDF we'll take you through one day in the life of a web apps-only user and chronicle the pros and cons of living by browser. And if the idea of switching, fully or partially, to web apps sounds appealing to you, we also take care of the job of investigating which web apps to use. The immediate benefit of living by web apps is their accessibility: you can use almost any computer, anywhere, to retrieve your data. If you habitually switch between several computers of your own, web apps keep everything in sync and make version control simple. But there are also drawbacks to overcome: Can you trust web apps? Can you back them up? In this PDF we'll also address practicality, security issues, and backup strategies for living the web app life. Is it really possible? This PDF will help you decide.
Download or read book A Life in Brine written by Jarratt Phil and published by Hardie Grant. This book was released on 2017-06-06 with total page 300 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "In the not-so-small world of surfing, Phil Jarratt has seen it all. Luckily for us, he's a fearless, funny storyteller, with a reporter's unsentimental eye and an endearing modesty. But his memoir is, above all, a haunting self-portrait: the boy practising drop-knee cutbacks in his mother's full-length mirror in mid-century Wollongong becomes a man." William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Barbarian Days Life of Brine is the memoir of Phil Jarratt, one of the world's best-known chroniclers of surfing culture whose lifelong pursuit of the perfect wave has placed him in the midst of some of the most exciting moments in surfing's modern history. Jarratt, who has courted controversy in his long career as a journalist, editor and documentarian, pulls no punches as he rides an exhilarating wave of nostalgia from the sixties up until now, through the heady days of drugs, alcohol and excess in Bali and Biarritz and other exotic locations in between. Filled with debauchery, reflection and insight, this is a book that will be devoured by surfers young and old.
