Download or read book The Surfer Spirit written by Cynthia A. DeRosier and published by Free Time Productions, LLC. This book was released on 2005 with total page 32 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Awe-inspiring, uplifting, and beautifully motivating, The Surfer Spirit is a book unlike any other surf book. Stunning in its simplicity, the book features breathtaking images accentuated with simple, yet profound sentiments. Together, the words and imagery on each page reflect the way in which surfing keeps us in communion with nature, reconnecting us with our spirits each time our boards meet the water. Photos by world-renowned surf photographers John Bilderback and Jeff Divine feature Kelly Slater, Perry Dane, Taj Burrow, Rochelle Ballard, epic waves and more. A fabulous book for surfers and non-surfers alike.
Download or read book Spirit of the Surfer written by Jonas Bach Jr and published by . This book was released on 2015-04-22 with total page 52 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surf is a philosophy of life. The wave is the sea's crisis. The crisis is the life's wave. As the surfers need a board to overcome the challenges of the sea, so we need a board for the challenges of life. The wave is a reflection of the universe. On earth as it's in heaven! The spirit of the surfer is the messenger: in life as it's in the sea! Being surrounded by a wave is being dragged through the currents, at the pleasure of the sea. Being surrounded by the crisis is being drawn by uncertainties, at the pleasure of the vicissitudes of any fate. A surfer catches the wave of the sea to go towards the beach, choosing adventures. The surfer of life catches a crisis to go toward his own fate, choosing challenges. To catch the wave is to catch the burst, the fulfillment. To catch the crisis is to experience the burst, the achievement. Surfing is to have the power of choice of achievement, so at sea as in life.
Download or read book The Flow written by Dominik Baur and published by Benteli. This book was released on 2021-06 with total page 224 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Hommage to the world of surfing in Europe by capturing the essence of the sport and its lifestyle through images and stories.
Download or read book The Surfer and the Sage written by Noah benShea and published by Abrams. This book was released on 2022-06-07 with total page 206 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sometimes life’s waves knock you down; other times, life might seem to sweep you along powerless. But the choice is always yours to swim back up to the light. Legendary world champion surfer Shaun Tomson and international bestselling poet-philosopher Noah benShea join forces to offer you insight on a path of purpose, hope, and faith. This timely guidebook alternates between Tomson’s inspiring experiential essays and benShea’s spiritual commentary that lift the soul, all accented with stunning full-color surfing photographs. After losing his son, Tomson walked the bitter road of loss and crossed from darkness into the light. The Surfer and the Sage addresses the eighteen relentless, breaking waves of life, from loss and aging to relationships and depression, and guides you to transformation. It is not a list of rules to follow that guarantee success, health, or wealth, but rather a collection of advice from two guides who have traveled far and wide and suffered deeply, but still look forward to tomorrow with faith and hope.
Download or read book Spirit Surfing written by Kevin Bewersdorf and published by . This book was released on 2012-08 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: ""Spirit Surfing"" is an attempt to preserve and share a body of texts and visual essays written by artist, actor and musician Kevin Bewersdorf between 2002 and 2010, collected and edited by Domenico Quaranta without the explicit consent of the author, but according to his philosophy of sharing. Bewersdorf has been very active online between 2007 and 2009, as one of the leading figures of the so-called ""pro-surfers"" generation. With his works and texts, he had a long-standing influence on the practice and theory of art, not only net-based. When, around 2010, he decided to stop actively promoting himself as an artist, he deleted from the internet any content still under his control. This book is part of a wider project focused on social preservation of ephemeral, net based practices called Share Your Sorrow, and available online at the URL shareyoursorrow.linkartcenter.eu.
Download or read book Soul Surfer written by Bethany Hamilton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2012-12-25 with total page 218 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the tremendous passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing - not even the loss of her arm in a horrific shark attack - could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii Bethany responded to the shark's stealth with a calmness beyond belief. Pushing pain and panic aside, she immediately thought: 'Get to the beach...' Rushed to the hospital, where her father, Ted Hamilton, was about to undergo knee surgery, Bethany found herself taking his spot in the operating theatre. When the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was 'When can I surf again?' it became clear that her unfaltering spirit and determination were part of a greater story - a tale of courage and faith that this modest and soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world.
Download or read book Tides written by Jonathan White and published by Trinity University Press. This book was released on 2017-01-16 with total page 280 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In Tides: The Science and Spirit of the Ocean, writer, sailor, and surfer Jonathan White takes readers across the globe to discover the science and spirit of ocean tides. In the Arctic, White shimmies under the ice with an Inuit elder to hunt for mussels in the dark cavities left behind at low tide; in China, he races the Silver Dragon, a twenty-five-foot tidal bore that crashes eighty miles up the Qiantang River; in France, he interviews the monks that live in the tide-wrapped monastery of Mont Saint-Michel; in Chile and Scotland, he investigates the growth of tidal power generation; and in Panama and Venice, he delves into how the threat of sea level rise is changing human culture—the very old and very new. Tides combines lyrical prose, colorful adventure travel, and provocative scientific inquiry into the elemental, mysterious paradox that keeps our planet’s waters in constant motion. Photographs, scientific figures, line drawings, and sixteen color photos dramatically illustrate this engaging, expert tour of the tides.
Download or read book Walking on Water written by Jeremy V. Jones and published by Gospel Light Publications. This book was released on 2006-09-05 with total page 198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing is spiritual. Ask most wave riders and they’ll describe some sense of deeper connection with the water, the waves or the power around them. Surfing to them is a spiritual experience. In a subculture that’s traditionally known for its rebellion, here you’ll find a deep undercurrent of faith amongst these top wave riders who share an understanding that the Creator of the waves also desires to know and relate with them. In these pages, you’ll meet top surfers such as C.J. Hobgood, who rose to the top of the surf world but found it ultimately dissatisfying; Bethany Hamilton, a courageous teen who survived a shark attack and returned to the sport; surf legend Tom Curren, a middle-aged father of four whose comeback of sorts is the talk of the surf world; and Al Merrick, a remarkable surfboard shaper who crafts the vehicles ridden by surf stars. Discover what makes these celebrities and others believe that surfing is meaningless without a deep satisfying faith in something more.
Download or read book The Scale or Ladder of Perfection written by Walter Hilton and published by . This book was released on 1869 with total page 438 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Surfing and Spirituality written by Leslie Kerby and published by Createspace Independent Pub. This book was released on 2013-03-04 with total page 60 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An in-depth look at surfing as a form of spirituality and way of life. Real surfing, real stories, real spirituality. Reviews: "Drawing on philosophy, religion, science, literature, and her own experience, Leslie Kerby deftly reveals why so many of us find solace and peace in the sea. I loved this book." Jaimal Yogis, author of Saltwater Buddha and The Fear Project Surfing And Spirituality is the only book I've ever read to capture the true essence of why we are drawn to the ocean and surfing. If you surf or just love the ocean you just "get it." Where "it" is the nearly indescribable sensation of infinite connection and presence we feel when riding a wave. Leslie has finally put a voice to this spiritual calling we have to the waves. She proves without a doubt we who ride the waves do so for much more than fun. We do it to experience a spiritual connection that can't be found in any church or religious practice. Incredibly well researched and written in a decidedly academic but friendly and relatable voice. I highly recommend Surfing And Spirituality to anyone who loves the ocean or feels that omnipresent drive to reconnect with who we really are. - Ryan Camana
Download or read book Cocaine Surfing written by Chas Smith and published by Rare Bird Books. This book was released on 2019-12-11 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.
Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.
Download or read book The Fisherman s Son written by Chris Malloy and published by . This book was released on 2015 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Ramon Navarro, a third-generation subsistence fisherman and farmer who lives on the coast of Chile at Punta Lobos, learned to surf on a busted surfboard left by a visiting surfer. Since then he has become one of the top-ten big wave riders. He has used his surfing accomplishments to protect his home break, and he is admired around the world as an environmental activist: he fights resort development on the point, the building of pulp mills along on the coast, and sewage pipes that pollute the ocean off Pichilemu. Editor Chris Malloy created the film and book The Fisherman's Son, which focuses on Ramon's rise to big wave fame and how Ramon is using that notoriety to make his voice heard on activism issues. Contributors to the book include Gerry Lopez, Josh Berry, and Jack Johnson. Part of the proceeds to the book and film will be used to support Ramon's environmental efforts.
Download or read book West of Jesus written by Steven Kotler and published by Bloomsbury Publishing USA. This book was released on 2008-12-01 with total page 270 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.
Download or read book Swell written by LIZ. CLARK and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2024-05-14 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Surf Like a Girl written by Carolina Amell and published by National Geographic Books. This book was released on 2019-10-01 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Whether they're threading a barrel or shredding a swell, these amazing women are making enormous waves in the world of surfing. If you thought surfing was a male-dominated sport, think again. The thirty women surfers profiled in this thrilling collection can rip a wave with the best of them. Hailing from all over the world, each surfer is featured in spectacular photography and with their own inspirational words. There's American professional surfer Lindsay Steinriede on how her father's death has inspired her career; French board shaper Valerie Duprat on how she got her start "sculpting foam"; Conchita Rossler, founder of Mooana Retreat in Portugal, on connecting mind, body, and spirit; and Australian photographer Cait Miers on empowering women. You'll also meet surfers who are over sixty, who surf while pregnant, who captain boats, teach yoga, and make movies. Breathtaking photography captures these women from every angle, on and off the waves, in some of the world's most visually stunning locations. The perfect gift for surfing enthusiasts, this unique compilation of stunning pictures and hard-won wisdom proves that the thrill of catching a wave, riding it, and kicking out belongs to everyone.
Download or read book Spirit Surfing written by Aloha and published by . This book was released on 2020-02-04 with total page 102 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 100 LIGNE PAGES 6X9 POOU CAN'T STOP THe WAVES BUT YOU CAN LEARN TO SURF!!!!!!!!!spirit surfing!!!!!
