Download or read book Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves written by Stephen Laurence Elgar and published by . This book was released on 1985 with total page 282 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Resonance Effects on Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves written by Michael Harris Freilich and published by . This book was released on 1982 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Two nonlinear shoaling models describing the shoaling of unidirectional surface gravity waves are developed. The models, based on variants of the Boussinesq equations for a sloping bottom are cast as a set of coupled evolution equations for the amplitudes and phases of the Fourier modes of the wave field. Resonant and near resonant triad interactions across the entire wind-wave frequency band (0.05-0.25 Hz) provide the mechanism for nonlinear cross spectral energy transfers and phase modifications as the waves propogate shoreward through the shoaling region (10 m - 3 m depth). A major field experiment designed to test the operational validity of the models was undertaken in the summer of 1980. Three representative data sets illustrating different initial spectral shape and subsequent evolution are compared in detail to predictions of the shoaling models and linear, finite-depth theory. The nonlinear shoaling models accurately predict Fourier coefficients of the wave field through the shoaling region for all data sets. Differences between the model predictions can be related to differences in the linear dispersion relations of the models. Measurements of directional spectra at two depths are used to partially explain coherence spectra between models and data.
Download or read book Characteristics and Implications of Surface Gravity Waves in the Littoral Zone of a Large Lake Lake Constance written by Hilmar Hofmann and published by Cuvillier Verlag. This book was released on 2008 with total page 135 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996 with total page 514 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Download or read book Shore Wave Modulation Due to Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone with Applications written by Saad M. M. Abdelrahman and published by . This book was released on 1986 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The omni-present low frequency wave motion (30-300 sec) contains a substantial fraction of the total wave energy inside the surf zone. A more complete description of nearshore wave processes considers incident short period waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber and direction due to relatively slowly varying depth changes caused by the long waves. The energy in the wind wave band is enhanced by side band growth at the sum and difference frequencies of short and long waves (order 15% at the shoreline). The modulation is identified in the analysis of field data as a positive correlation between the long waves and the wind wave envelope near the shoreline. Considering oblique incident waves, a steady longshore current showing a non-vanishing current at the shoreline is found as a result of the non-linear interaction between monochromatic incident and infragravity waves. An analytical solution describing the unsteadiness of the longshore current is developed. Keywords include: Infragravity, Longshore Current, Sediment transport, and Surf zone dynamics. (Theses).
Download or read book Essentials of Pad Approximants written by George A. Jr. Baker and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 1975-01-01 with total page 319 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Essentials of Padé Approximants
Download or read book Active Geophysical Monitoring written by and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2010-03-05 with total page 578 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Active geophysical monitoring is an important new method for studying time-evolving structures and states in the tectonically active Earth's lithosphere. It is based on repeated time-lapse observations and interpretation of rock-induced changes in geophysical fields periodically excited by controlled sources. In this book, the results of strategic systematic development and the application of new technologies for active geophysical monitoring are presented. The authors demonstrate that active monitoring may drastically change solid Earth geophysics, through the acquisition of substantially new information, based on high accuracy and real-time observations. Active monitoring also provides new means for disaster mitigation, in conjunction with substantial international and interdisciplinary cooperation. - Introduction of a new concept - Most experienced authors in the field - Comprehensiveness
Download or read book Simulation of Water Waves by Boussinesq Models written by Ge Wei and published by . This book was released on 1997 with total page 234 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A new set of time-dependent Boussinesq equations is derived to simulate nonlinear long wave propagation in coastal regions. Following the approaches by Nwogu and later by Chen and Liu, the velocity (or velocity potential) at a certain water depth corresponding to the optimum linear dispersion property is used as a dependent variable. Therefore, the resulting equations are valid in intermediate water depth as well as for highly nonlinear waves. Coefficients for second order bound waves and the third order Schrodinger equation are derived and compared with exact solutions. A numerical model using a combination of second and fourth order schemes to discretize equation terms is developed for obtaining solutions to the equations. A fourth order predictor-corrector scheme is employed for time stepping and the first order derivative terms are finite differenced to fourth order accuracy, making the truncation errors smaller than the dispersive terms in the equations. Linear stability analysis is performed to determine the corresponding numerical stability range for the model. To avoid the problem of wave reflection from the conventional incident boundary condition, internal wave generation by source function is employed for the present model. Numerical filtering is applied at specified time steps in the model to eliminate short waves (about 2 to 5 times of the grid size) which are generated by the nonlinear interaction of long waves. To simulate the wave breaking process, additional terms for artificial eddy viscosity are included in the model equations to dissipate wave energy. The dissipation terms are activated when the horizontal gradient of the horizontal velocity exceeds the specified breaking criteria. Some of the existing models for simulating the process of wave runup are reviewed and we attempt to incorporate the present model to simulate the process by maintaining a thin layer of water over the physically dry grids.
Download or read book Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering written by Philip L. F. Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2000 with total page 250 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This invaluable volume consists of five articles covering a wide range of topics in coastal engineering. The reader can find a paper discussing the modern optical measurement techniques applied to wave studies. An introductory paper on wavelet theory provides readers with a new perspective on coastal and ocean engineering data analysis. For those who are interested in wave modeling, a review article on the stochastic evolution models is included. A detailed review paper on the recent sediment transport research should supply enough motivation for more research in this area. Finally, readers who are interested in history can find an interesting article reviewing the coastal development and coastal engineering activities in Japanese history.
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Download or read book Water Waves Theory And Experiment Proceedings Of The Conference written by Mohammad F Mahmood and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2010-04-23 with total page 214 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The objective of this book is to introduce new researchers to the rich dynamical system of water waves, and to show how (some) abstract mathematical concepts can be applied fruitfully in a practical physical problem and to make the connection between theory and experiment. It provides a coherent set of lectures on the current status of water wave theory, including identification of some open problems.
Download or read book Internal Gravity Waves written by Bruce R. Sutherland and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-09-02 with total page 395 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The study of internal gravity waves provides many challenges: they move along interfaces as well as in fully three-dimensional space, at relatively fast temporal and small spatial scales, making them difficult to observe and resolve in weather and climate models. Solving the equations describing their evolution poses various mathematical challenges associated with singular boundary value problems and large amplitude dynamics. This book provides the first comprehensive treatment of the theory for small and large amplitude internal gravity waves. Over 120 schematics, numerical simulations and laboratory images illustrate the theory and mathematical techniques, and 130 exercises enable the reader to apply their understanding of the theory. This is an invaluable single resource for academic researchers and graduate students studying the motion of waves within the atmosphere and ocean, and also mathematicians, physicists and engineers interested in the properties of propagating, growing and breaking waves.
Download or read book The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind written by Peter Janssen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-10-28 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Download or read book Wind and Wave Forcing of Longshore Currents Across a Barred Beach written by Dennis James Whitford and published by . This book was released on 1988 with total page 238 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Previous investigations of longshore currents have included simplifying assumptions and restriction (such as a planar beach, a steady and depth uniform flow, spatially-variant bed shear stress and turbulent momentum exchange, and the exclusion of surface wind stress. These assumptions are quantitatively investigated by calculating the relative importance of each term in the longshore momentum balance with an emphasis on the relative importance of wind forcing across the barred nearshore. Wind and wave forcing of longshore currents across a barred beach are examined using both a numerical model and field measurements. A local momentum balance was measured at various locations across the surf zone during the SUPERDUCK experiment held at the USACE CERC Field Research Facility, Duck, N.C. in October 1986. A moveable sled was instrumented with pressure, current, and wind sensors to measure the various terms in the longshore momentum equation. Stability-dependent atmospheric drag coefficients for the surf zone are determined from wind stress measurements acquired just beyond the surf zone and wind speed measurements acquired from an anemometer atop the 9 m sled mast. Breaking waves were visually identified and electronically marked on the data tapes. Keywords: Ocean currents; Air water interactions; Nearshore surf zone; Wind stress; Theses. (EDC).
Download or read book Coastal Engineering 2004 Proceedings Of The 29th International Conference In 4 Vols written by Jane Mckee Smith and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2005-04-08 with total page 4836 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This comprehensive and up-to-date volume contains 367 papers presented at the 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, held in Lisbon, Portugal, 19-24 September 2004. It is divided into five parts: waves; long waves, nearshore currents, and swash; sediment transport and morphology; coastal management, beach nourishment, and dredging; coastal structures. The contributions cover a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. Coastal Engineering 2004 provides engineers, scientists, and planners state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.The proceedings have been selected for coverage in:
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2017-09-28 with total page 801 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
Download or read book Long wave Runup Models written by Philip L. F. Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996 with total page 419 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
