Download or read book Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling written by Derek Rielly and published by . This book was released on 2003 with total page 186 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A book that defines the importance of surfing to the Australian psyche with a far-ranging look at the surfers, the boards, the beaches and the surfwear that have shaped the sport for generations. After its 'discovery' in the pacific the Australians and Americans adopted surfing as a sport of choice, their long ocean-facing coastlines providing ample opportunity for experimentation and development. Only a Surfer knows the Feeling captures the essence of the sport and how Australians and Australian companies such as Billabong have been a leading force in building the surf culture of today. Beautifully designed and illustrated throughout with fantastic action photography, this is a book no surfer will want to be without.
Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 342 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Download or read book The Average Surfer s Guide written by Simon Short and published by Createspace Independent Publishing Platform. This book was released on 2018-11-14 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Heart warming read that discusses depression, radical life change, and muses on the plight of the lifelong intermediate... grab a copy on Amazon" - David Lee Scales, Surf Splendor Podcast "I can recommend this book for non-surfers as much as surfers. It goes a long way towards explaining the hook that keeps people addicted to surfing and provides some personal lessons that can be applied to all walks of life" - Charlie Spurr - The Museum of British Surfing "Once I started reading, I couldn't put it down. The writing is wonderful and Simon really nails it when he defines what an average surfer is and how surfing affects us all" - Imi Barneaud, The Ocean Riders Podcast "Short uses the term "average" not as in mediocre, but to make it relatable to the masses of surfers who are not professionals, and not beginners, but the wave-riders in between. He teaches life lessons with every chapter. You can be scared, intimidated, proud and brave, all in one session" - The Orange County Register From the author of "A Story about Surfing, Identity and Depression" comes the #1 New Release 'The Average Surfer's Guide' The Average Surfer's Guide to Travel, Waves and Progression is a book about surfing as much as it is about mental health, life balance and prioritizing one's passions. The author explores the metaphysical effects of surfing, the biological effects of surfing and how the sport, percolated into a lifestyle opens us up to travel, adventure, community and a true belonging and identity. The book takes us into situations that many are familiar with, but few of us speak of. Short bravely shares details from his darker days fighting a severe depression before learning some valuable life lessons. "Simon Short sat at the end of a Newport Beach rock jetty in the darkness, clutching a gun and ready to end his life as his depression hit an all-time low. For years, Short thought he was on the right track. The surfer from England moved to California after visiting for a surf trip in his early 20s, met a girl who became his wife and had a career as a police officer near Palm Springs. This was what he was supposed to do, right? When it all came crashing down a few years later, he found himself staring out into the ocean, the place that had been his one constant source of solace since he was a teen." Feb 2019 - The OC Register The Average Surfer's Guide takes a unique approach by forgetting the glamour of professional surfing and telling honest, humorous and engaging stories from a true, every-day, average surfer. The book teaches us how to progress away from complacency, both in our surfing and our everyday lives. In the end, this book will make you a better surfer. Not through technique but through teaching a new mindset and outlook towards life and surfing. The Average Surfer's Guide takes us on a journey from dark to light and teaches us how to live a true, balanced life that is authentic to who we are and what makes us happy. In this case, surfing.
Download or read book It s Great to Suck at Something written by Karen Rinaldi and published by Atria Books. This book was released on 2020-03-24 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover how the freedom of sucking at something can help you build resilience, embrace imperfection, and find joy in the pursuit rather than the goal with this “wholly original work that is destined to become a classic” (Susannah Cahalan, #1 New York Times bestselling author). When was the last time you tried something new? Something that won’t make you more productive, make you more money, or check anything off your to-do list? Something you’re really, really bad at, but that brought you joy? Odds are, not recently. We live in a time of aspirational psychoses. We humblebrag about how hard we work and we prioritize productivity over happiness. Even kids don’t play for the sake of playing anymore: they’re building blocks to build the ideal college application. We’re told to be the best or nothing at all. We’re trapped in an epic and farcical quest for perfection and it’s all making us more anxious and depressed than ever. This book provides the antidote. (It’s Great to) Suck at Something “shows how joy and growth come from risking failure and letting go of perfectionism” (The Wall Street Journal). Drawing on her personal experience sucking at surfing (a sport Karen Rinaldi’s dedicated nearly two decades of her life to doing without ever coming close to getting good at it) along with philosophy, literature, and the latest science, Rinaldi explores sucking as a lost art we must reclaim for our health and our sanity and helps us find the way to our own riotous suck-ability. Sucking at something rewires our brain in positive ways, helps us cultivate grit, and inspires us to find joy in the process, without obsessing about the destination. Ultimately, it gives you freedom: the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory. Coupling honest, hilarious storytelling with unexpected insights, this “thought-provoking, engaging examination…explains how our lives are more satisfying and rich when we give ourselves the opportunity to experiment, struggle, and play” (Gretchen Rubin, bestselling author of The Happiness Project).
Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.
Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.
Download or read book Surfing Life written by Mark Stranger and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2017-03-02 with total page 266 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing Life is a study of surfing and social change that also provides insights into other experience-based contemporary subcultures and the nature of the self and social formations in contemporary society. Making use of extensive empirical material to support innovative theoretical approaches to social change, this book offers an analysis of the relationship between embodied experience, culture and the economy. With its ground breaking theoretical contributions, and its foundation in an ethnographic study of surfing culture in locations across Australia, this volume will appeal not only to those interested in the social and cultural phenomenon of surfing, but also to anyone interested in the sociology of sport and leisure, the sociology of culture and consumption, risk-taking, subcultures and theories of contemporary social change.
Download or read book Surfing written by Chris Nelson and published by The Crowood Press. This book was released on 2017-03-31 with total page 282 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Crowood Sports Guides are the perfect tool for anyone wanting to improve their performance, from beginners learning the basic skills to more experienced participants working on advanced techniques. These practical, no-nonsense guides will help give you that all important advantage. Fully illustrated with over 150 colour photographs, Surfing - Crowood Sports Guides covers: the history of surfing; choosing and maintaining a board; reading the ocean; skills development; advanced techniques; environmental care and surf contests and careers. This instructional and practical guide is aimed at surfers, surf enthusiasts and surf instructors and is superbly illustrated with 150 full colour photographs.
Download or read book The Icon Effect written by Darren Sugiyama and published by Lulu.com. This book was released on 2014-01-01 with total page 254 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Vincent is a 27-year old aspiring entrepreneur with big dreams. But after going through a devastating divorce, he finds himself emotionally drained, lacking confidence and dead broke. However, a chance encounter with The Icon (a billionaire business mogul) results in a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to change the direction of his life, forever. Vincent becomes the newest protege of The Icon, and is offered an internship at the most powerful wealth management firm in Beverly Hills. The Icon becomes his business mentor, his father-figure and his best friend. The Icon Effect is both an inspirational story and an aspirational story about the power of faith, belief and second chances. You will undoubtedly find yourself rooting for Vincent the underdog as he discovers the magic of having a true mentor.
Download or read book Surfing about Music written by Timothy J. Cooley and published by Univ of California Press. This book was released on 2014-01-02 with total page 239 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This first major examination the interrelationships of music and surfing explores different ways that surfers combine surfing with making and listening to music. Tim Cooley uses his knowledge and experience as a practicing musician and avid surfer to consider the musical practices of surfers in locations around the world, taking into account ideas about surfing as a global affinity group and the real-life stories of surfers and musicians he encounters. In doing so, he expands ethnomusicological thinking about the many ways musical practices are integral to human socializing, creativity, and the condition of being human. Cooley discusses the origins of surfing in Hawai‘i, its central role in Hawaiian society, and the mele (chants) and hula (dance or visual poetry) about surfing. He covers instrumental rock from groups like Dick Dale and the Del Tones and many others, and songs about surfing performed by the Beach Boys. As he traces trends globally, three broad styles emerge: surf music, punk rock, and acoustic singer-songwriter music. Cooley also examines surfing contests and music festivals as well as the music used in a selection surf movies that were particularly influential in shaping the musical practices of significant groups of surfers. Engaging, informative, and enlightening, this book is a fascinating exploration of surfing as a cultural practice with accompanying rituals, habits, and conceptions about who surfs and why, and of how musical ideas and practices are key to the many things that surfing is and aspires to be.
Download or read book Shark Attacks written by Blake Chapman and published by CSIRO PUBLISHING. This book was released on 2017-11-01 with total page 337 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Humans spend more time in or on the water than ever before. We love the beach. But for many people, getting in the water provokes a moment’s hesitation. Shark attacks are big news events and although the risk of shark attack on humans is incredibly low, the fact remains that human lives are lost to sharks every year. Shark Attacks explores the tension between risk to humans and the need to conserve sharks and protect the important ecological roles they play in our marine environments. Marine biologist Blake Chapman presents scientific information about shark biology, movement patterns and feeding behaviour. She discusses the role of fear in the way we think about sharks and the influence of the media on public perceptions. Moving first-hand accounts describe the deep and polarising psychological impacts of shark attacks from a range of perspectives. This book is an education in thinking through these emotive events and will help readers to navigate the controversial issues around mitigating shark attacks while conserving the sharks themselves.
Download or read book Mundane Methods written by Helen Holmes and published by Manchester University Press. This book was released on 2020-04-30 with total page 280 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Mundane Methods is an innovative and original collection which will make a distinctive methodological and empirical contribution to research on the everyday. Bringing together a range of interdisciplinary approaches it provides a practical, hands-on approach for scholars interested in studying the mundane and exploring its potential. Divided into three key themes this volume explores methods for studying: materials and memories, emotions and senses, and mobilities and motion; with encounters, relationships, practices, spaces, temporalities and imaginaries cross-cutting throughout. In doing so, it draws on the work of a range of established and up-and-coming scholars researching the everyday, including human geographers, sociologists, anthropologists, urban planners, cartographers, and fashion historians. With empirical examples, practical tips, ethical considerations, and exercises.
Download or read book How to Be a Surfer written by Joao De Macedo and published by Meyer & Meyer Verlag. This book was released on 2007 with total page 178 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Aim at helping surfers and non-surfers improve their surfing skills, as well as their enjoyment in the water.
Download or read book The Cultural Politics of Lifestyle Sports written by Belinda Wheaton and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2013-07-23 with total page 248 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Drawing on a series of in-depth, empirical case-studies, this book offers a re-evaluation of theoretical frameworks with which lifestyle sports have been understood, and focuses on aspects of their cultural politics that have received little attention, particularly the racialization of lifestyle sporting spaces. Casting new light on the significance of sport and sporting subcultures within contemporary society, this book is essential reading for students or researcher working in the sociology of sport, leisure studies or cultural studies.
Download or read book Am I Living With an Addict written by Jackson Oppy and published by Kerr Publishing. This book was released on 2014 with total page 105 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is not about drugs, it is about people. It is about those suffering from addiction and the struggles of the people around them. As well as describing how to identify if a loved one is in addiction, it provides clear information about the solution. With the right treatment addicts can recover. Jackson Oppy has walked the road he describes, knows the pain of addiction and knows the road back to wellness, wholeness and stable family and social life. Am I Living With an Addict? is the route map to wellness. Jackson Oppy used drugs actively for 15 years. He and his family experienced all the pitfalls and trauma that comes with having a loved one in the grip of addiction and the hopelessness of believing that there was no way out. After countless attempts to stop and after losing everything, Jackson entered recovery at age 35 and now lives alcohol- and drug-free. He now uses his experience in both active addiction and in recovery to help others at Hader Clinic in Melbourne. In his current role he deals with addicts and their families everyday, using his intimate knowledge of the problem and the solution.
Download or read book Pure Water written by Case Adams and published by Logical Books. This book was released on 2024-01-29 with total page 245 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Water is our most essential element. Every day we drink it, bathe in it, cook with it and wash with it. What do we know about our water? Where does it come from? Is it clean? Is it healthy? Perhaps it is polluted or toxic. Perhaps what comes out of our faucet is making us sick. Perhaps we are slowly poisoning our bodies. Or perhaps not, depending upon our water source and treatment method. "Pure Water" engages all of these questions and more. Here the latest scientific discoveries about water and its many magical and healing properties are unveiled. Here the latest research on water pollutants and contamination sources are exposed. Here we discover our options for home filtration, the truth about bottled water, and the facts on water treatment. From "Pure Water" we gain clarity regarding the epidemic of dehydration, and discover how to use water to heal and feel better every day.
Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 321 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.
