Download or read book Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling written by Derek Rielly and published by . This book was released on 2003 with total page 186 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A book that defines the importance of surfing to the Australian psyche with a far-ranging look at the surfers, the boards, the beaches and the surfwear that have shaped the sport for generations. After its 'discovery' in the pacific the Australians and Americans adopted surfing as a sport of choice, their long ocean-facing coastlines providing ample opportunity for experimentation and development. Only a Surfer knows the Feeling captures the essence of the sport and how Australians and Australian companies such as Billabong have been a leading force in building the surf culture of today. Beautifully designed and illustrated throughout with fantastic action photography, this is a book no surfer will want to be without.
Download or read book Only A Surfer Knows The Feeling written by Ocean Desings T and published by . This book was released on 2019-07-13 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Only $6.99! Perfect Journal, Diary, Notebook � Amazing design and high quality cover and paper. � Matte Cover. � Perfect size 6x9" � No Spiral � Use it as a journal, note taking, composition notebook, makes a great gift!
Download or read book Only A Surfer Knows The Feeling written by Ocean Desings T and published by . This book was released on 2019-07-13 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Only $6.99! Perfect Journal, Diary, Notebook � Amazing design and high quality cover and paper. � Matte Cover. � Perfect size 6x9" � No Spiral � Use it as a journal, note taking, composition notebook, makes a great gift!
Download or read book Surf Sweat and Tears written by Andy Martin and published by OR Books. This book was released on 2020-03 with total page 232 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “I don’t normally read books about surfers, but this is like Truman Capote, with shorts.” —Lee Child “Andy Martin, to his immense credit, knows that surfers are misfits and accidental comics, as well as great athletes.” —Matt Warshaw “A sublime mixing of stoke and sorrow, hedonism and the macabre—skillfully and deftly penned by someone who had, and still has, intimate access to many of the key players." —Tom Anderson, author of Riding the Magic Carpet: A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave This is the true story of Ted, Viscount Deerhurst, the son of the Earl of Coventry and an American ballerina who dedicated his life to becoming a professional surfer. Surfing was a means of escape, from England, from the fraught charges of nobility, from family, and, often, from his own demons. Ted was good on the board, but never made it to the very highest ranks of a sport that, like most, treats second-best as nowhere at all. He kept on surfing, ending up where all surfers go to live or die, the paradise of Hawaii. There, in search of the “perfect woman,” he fell in love with a dancer called Lola, who worked in a Honolulu nightclub. The problem with paradise, as he was soon to discover, is that gangsters always get there first. Lola already had a serious boyfriend, a man who went by the name of Pit Bull. Ted was given fair warning to stay away. But he had a besetting sin, for which he paid the heaviest price: He never knew when to give up. Surf, Sweat and Tears takes us into the world of global surfing, revealing a dark side beneath the dazzling sun and cream-crested waves. Here is surf noir at its most compelling, a dystopian tale of one man’s obsessions, wiped out in a grisly true crime.
Download or read book Only A Surfer Knows The Feeling written by Ocean Desings T and published by . This book was released on 2019-07-13 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Only $6.99! Perfect Journal, Diary, Notebook � Amazing design and high quality cover and paper. � Matte Cover. � Perfect size 6x9" � No Spiral � Use it as a journal, note taking, composition notebook, makes a great gift!
Download or read book Caught Inside written by Daniel Duane and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 1997-04-10 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna
Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 342 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Download or read book Surfing about Music written by Timothy J. Cooley and published by Univ of California Press. This book was released on 2014-01-02 with total page 239 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This first major examination the interrelationships of music and surfing explores different ways that surfers combine surfing with making and listening to music. Tim Cooley uses his knowledge and experience as a practicing musician and avid surfer to consider the musical practices of surfers in locations around the world, taking into account ideas about surfing as a global affinity group and the real-life stories of surfers and musicians he encounters. In doing so, he expands ethnomusicological thinking about the many ways musical practices are integral to human socializing, creativity, and the condition of being human. Cooley discusses the origins of surfing in Hawai‘i, its central role in Hawaiian society, and the mele (chants) and hula (dance or visual poetry) about surfing. He covers instrumental rock from groups like Dick Dale and the Del Tones and many others, and songs about surfing performed by the Beach Boys. As he traces trends globally, three broad styles emerge: surf music, punk rock, and acoustic singer-songwriter music. Cooley also examines surfing contests and music festivals as well as the music used in a selection surf movies that were particularly influential in shaping the musical practices of significant groups of surfers. Engaging, informative, and enlightening, this book is a fascinating exploration of surfing as a cultural practice with accompanying rituals, habits, and conceptions about who surfs and why, and of how musical ideas and practices are key to the many things that surfing is and aspires to be.
Download or read book Surfing Life written by Mark Stranger and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2017-03-02 with total page 266 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing Life is a study of surfing and social change that also provides insights into other experience-based contemporary subcultures and the nature of the self and social formations in contemporary society. Making use of extensive empirical material to support innovative theoretical approaches to social change, this book offers an analysis of the relationship between embodied experience, culture and the economy. With its ground breaking theoretical contributions, and its foundation in an ethnographic study of surfing culture in locations across Australia, this volume will appeal not only to those interested in the social and cultural phenomenon of surfing, but also to anyone interested in the sociology of sport and leisure, the sociology of culture and consumption, risk-taking, subcultures and theories of contemporary social change.
Download or read book Pure Water written by Case Adams and published by Logical Books. This book was released on 2024-01-29 with total page 245 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Water is our most essential element. Every day we drink it, bathe in it, cook with it and wash with it. What do we know about our water? Where does it come from? Is it clean? Is it healthy? Perhaps it is polluted or toxic. Perhaps what comes out of our faucet is making us sick. Perhaps we are slowly poisoning our bodies. Or perhaps not, depending upon our water source and treatment method. "Pure Water" engages all of these questions and more. Here the latest scientific discoveries about water and its many magical and healing properties are unveiled. Here the latest research on water pollutants and contamination sources are exposed. Here we discover our options for home filtration, the truth about bottled water, and the facts on water treatment. From "Pure Water" we gain clarity regarding the epidemic of dehydration, and discover how to use water to heal and feel better every day.
Download or read book Surfing and Social Theory written by Nick Ford and published by Taylor & Francis. This book was released on 2006 with total page 220 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Drawing on popular surf culture, academic literature and the analytical tools of social theory, this is the first sustained commentary on the contemporary social and cultural meaning of surfing, exploring mind and body, emotions, and aesthetics.
Download or read book The Consumption and Representation of Lifestyle Sports written by Belinda Wheaton and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2014-06-11 with total page 554 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Since their emergence in the 1960s, lifestyle sports (also referred to as action sport, extreme sports, adventure sports) have experienced unprecedented growth both in terms of participation and in their increased visibility across public and private space. book seeks to explore the changing representation and consumption of lifestyle sport in the twenty-first century. The essays, which cover a range of sports, and geographical contexts (including Brazil, Europe, North America and Australasia) focus on three themes. First, essays scrutinise aspects of the commercialisation process and impact of the media, reviewing and reconsidering theoretical frameworks to understand these processes. The scholars here emphasise the need to move beyond simplistic understandings of commercialisation as co-option and resistance, to capture the complexity and messiness of the process, and of the relationships between the cultural industries, participants and consumers. The second theme examines gender identity and representations, exploring the potential of lifestyle sport to be a politically transformative space in relation to gender, sexuality and ‘race’. The last theme explores new theoretical directions in research on lifestyle sport, including insights from philosophy, sociology and cultural geography. The themes the monograph addresses are wide reaching, and centrally concerned with the changing meaning of sport and sporting identity in the twenty-first century. This book was previously published as a Special Issue of Sport in Society.
Download or read book Walking on Ocean Floors written by Mike Mcgettigan and published by Xlibris Corporation. This book was released on 2019-10-27 with total page 289 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is based on the life of a commercial diver working in the oil and gas industry from the cowboy days of the early 1980s around Asia, India, Australasia, and Africa to the safety-orientated twenty-first century in the North Sea and Gulf of Mexico. You will travel with the characters that work in this world and see the countries that they visit. It’s a wild and dangerous job, and most people would struggle to get their head around the fact that people actually do this for a living. But that’s not all. You also get to travel with a traveller, who, when not submerged under the water building or fixing oil fields, is sitting on a surfboard riding the waves that he dreamt about when he was growing up. This is proof that dreams can turn into reality if you want to push yourself over the edge of your safety zone. Dreams become reality if you work on it and face your fears. Give it a shot and see how you go.
Download or read book Experiencing the Outdoors written by Margaret Robertson and published by Springer. This book was released on 2015-02-27 with total page 264 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The space is outdoors. The experience is personal and the journey can be solitary or take place in groups. Informal or formal the places visited are sites of learning. Locked in memory our experiences in the outdoors are a constant source of wonderment and food to replenish our sense of wellbeing. Our experiences in the outdoors can endure in the abstract as ideas for developing a sense of a well lived life. They can also draw us back to places and reenergise the body. Physical and emotional wellbeing collides in the unexpected events that flourish in the outdoors. Our readiness for enjoyment and personal development are subjective states which this book challenges. Traversing the landscape of the outdoors the collection of chapters contained range from the theoretical to the practical including strategies for teaching and learning that are transdisciplinary. With ideas for practitioners as well as thoughtful reading for readers of diverse ages and interests this book includes contributions from Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong, United Kingdom and Canada.
Download or read book Nine Parts Water written by Emma Hardman and published by ReadHowYouWant.com. This book was released on 2010-07-13 with total page 290 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the Eighties, Cal Brodie was the next best thing in women's surfing. Now she just wants to be left alone. When she returns to her childhood home in Tungalla Bay to put her past to rest, Cal finds the events surrounding her mother's death twenty years ago still reverberating through the town, and is confronted with some difficult truths. But u...
Download or read book The Average Surfer s Guide written by Simon Short and published by Createspace Independent Publishing Platform. This book was released on 2018-11-14 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Heart warming read that discusses depression, radical life change, and muses on the plight of the lifelong intermediate... grab a copy on Amazon" - David Lee Scales, Surf Splendor Podcast "I can recommend this book for non-surfers as much as surfers. It goes a long way towards explaining the hook that keeps people addicted to surfing and provides some personal lessons that can be applied to all walks of life" - Charlie Spurr - The Museum of British Surfing "Once I started reading, I couldn't put it down. The writing is wonderful and Simon really nails it when he defines what an average surfer is and how surfing affects us all" - Imi Barneaud, The Ocean Riders Podcast "Short uses the term "average" not as in mediocre, but to make it relatable to the masses of surfers who are not professionals, and not beginners, but the wave-riders in between. He teaches life lessons with every chapter. You can be scared, intimidated, proud and brave, all in one session" - The Orange County Register From the author of "A Story about Surfing, Identity and Depression" comes the #1 New Release 'The Average Surfer's Guide' The Average Surfer's Guide to Travel, Waves and Progression is a book about surfing as much as it is about mental health, life balance and prioritizing one's passions. The author explores the metaphysical effects of surfing, the biological effects of surfing and how the sport, percolated into a lifestyle opens us up to travel, adventure, community and a true belonging and identity. The book takes us into situations that many are familiar with, but few of us speak of. Short bravely shares details from his darker days fighting a severe depression before learning some valuable life lessons. "Simon Short sat at the end of a Newport Beach rock jetty in the darkness, clutching a gun and ready to end his life as his depression hit an all-time low. For years, Short thought he was on the right track. The surfer from England moved to California after visiting for a surf trip in his early 20s, met a girl who became his wife and had a career as a police officer near Palm Springs. This was what he was supposed to do, right? When it all came crashing down a few years later, he found himself staring out into the ocean, the place that had been his one constant source of solace since he was a teen." Feb 2019 - The OC Register The Average Surfer's Guide takes a unique approach by forgetting the glamour of professional surfing and telling honest, humorous and engaging stories from a true, every-day, average surfer. The book teaches us how to progress away from complacency, both in our surfing and our everyday lives. In the end, this book will make you a better surfer. Not through technique but through teaching a new mindset and outlook towards life and surfing. The Average Surfer's Guide takes us on a journey from dark to light and teaches us how to live a true, balanced life that is authentic to who we are and what makes us happy. In this case, surfing.
Download or read book Water Creativity and Meaning written by Liz Roberts and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2018-08-06 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: At a time of great turmoil and crisis, environmentally, socially and politically, water has emerged as a topic of huge global concern. Moreover, many argue that what is needed in order to change our relationship with the environment is a cultural paradigm shift. To this end, this volume brings together diverse approaches to exploring human relationships with the watery world and the other living things that rely upon it. Through exploring multiple creative ways of engaging with water and people, the volume adds to the current zeitgeist of writing about water by expanding the discussion about this vital substance and how, as humans, we relate to it. Chapters focus on creative explorations and explorations of creativity in relation to developing these understandings, including concepts such as hydrocitizenship and responses to drought and flooding. Drawing on the in-depth research and experience of arts practitioners including participatory artists, as well as academics from a variety of fields including geography, anthropology, health studies and environmental humanities, the book provides a rich and multidisciplinary perspective on water and creative ways of engaging and understanding human–water relationships. It represents a valuable source and inspiration for academics, arts practitioners and those involved in environmental policy and governance.
