Download or read book On the Determination of when Waves Break in Shallow Water written by James H. Balsillie and published by . This book was released on 1983 with total page 60 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Remote Measurement and Analysis of Shallow Water Wave Breaking Characteristics written by Bryson Robertson and published by . This book was released on 2013 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This thesis is an investigation of one of the most important elements in coastal engineering design; shallow water breaking waves. Shallow water waves create large impact forces on coastal structures, drive sediment transport, regulate a number of biophysical and air-sea chemical processes, and ultimately control coastal morphology and storm inundation. The value of accurate measurements and prediction systems for breaking waves cannot be overstated - it is paramount to understanding the drivers of coastal processes, engineering design and hazard prediction. A detailed review of key original empirical work is presented in this thesis to give a historical perspective of wave breaking research and identify avenues yet to be explored. The majority of the published relationships were semi-empirically extracted from scaled laboratory tests or limited field investigations. Traditional field investigation methods generally suffer from low spatial resolution data, high researcher safety risks and exorbitant costs. This study presents a precise, robust and low cost method to extract all relevant breaking wave properties from irregular waves, using simple consumer digital camcorder and global positioning system (total cost: ~ $350 USD). The collective understanding of wave breaking characteristics is continually hampered by a lack of consistent definitions and measurement techniques for determining breaking, breaking depth and effective seafloor slope. In this detailed study, the dominant published definitions for the breaking depth and effective seafloor slope are compared, their reliability tested and the best practices suggested. A novel method of calculating the breaking depth, corrected for optical wave trough water level variations, displayed the lowest variability and was determined to best define the effective breaking depth. A newly presented effective seafloor slope definition, based on individual wavelength to depth ratios, increased predictive ability over previous seafloor slope extraction methods. Finally, an optimized breaking wave height prediction method finds a root mean square relative error of just 1.7 % within the ranges of measured dataset. Irregular waves investigated on an individual wave basis are shown to follow regular wave breaker height and depth prediction methods. Investigations into plunging breaker "intensity" using wave vortex geometric parameters have been ongoing for 50 years with limited success. Previously published works, based on regular wave flume results or solitary wave theory, present contradictory results and conclusions. This thesis investigates the predictability of vortex parameters and validity of using vortex parameters as indicators of breaking intensity. Detailed analysis determined that vortex parameters cannot be accurately predicted and are not suggested as a possible indicator of breaking intensity. Through this study, numerous innovative measurement methods and wave definitions were presented, defended and shown to increase our understanding of shallow water break events. The unique and highly detailed dataset of irregular breaking wave conditions allowed for unparalleled investigations into shallow water breaking waves.
Download or read book Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis written by Orville T. Magoon and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page 1080 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Proceedings of the Second International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, held in New Orleans, Louisiana, July 25-28, 1993. Sponsored by the Waterways, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division of ASCE. This collection, which honors Professor Robert L. Wiegel, contains 79 papers that explore major advances in wave measurement and quantification of ocean and lake waves, including technical knowledge and applications on wave theory, characteristics, design and techniques. Papers are both national and international in scope and include practical examples and case histories. Topics include: wave transformation, data analysis and reliability, wave modeling, applications, long waves, extreme wave statistics, and other topics relating to wave research over the last two decades. This collection will serve as a primary reference to the latest information in the field of wave measurement and analysis for anyone working with coastal technology.
Download or read book Extreme Ocean Waves written by Efim Pelinovsky and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2008-06-27 with total page 200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Extreme, freak or rogue waves are produced by a number of physical mechanisms that focus the water-wave energy into a small area, due to wave instability, chaotic behaviour, dispersion (frequency modulation), refraction (presence of variable currents or bottom topography), soliton interactions, etc. During the past thirty years a number of physical models of the rogue wave phenomenon have been intensively developed. Numerous experimental, statistical and theoretical investigations are intended to understand the physics of the huge wave formation, its relation to the environmental conditions and to provide a freak wave design for engineering purposes. The book details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of freak waves due to modulation instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of rogue wave generation in deep water and in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between observations and freak wave theories. The book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Download or read book Encyclopedia of Coastal Science written by Charles W. Finkl and published by Springer. This book was released on 2019-06-25 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This thoroughly revised and expanded edition of the much acclaimed Encyclopedia of Coastal Science edited by M. Schwarz (Springer 2005), presents an interdisciplinary approach that includes biology, ecology, engineering, geology, geomorphology, oceanography, remote sensing, technological advances, and anthropogenic impacts on coasts. Within its covers the Encyclopedia of Coastal Science, 2nd ed. brings together and coordinates many aspects of coastal and related sciences that are widely dispersed in the scientific literature. The broadly interdisciplinary subject matter of this volume features contributions by over 280 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and provides an abundance of figures in full-color with line drawings and photographs, and other illustrations such as satellite images. Not only does this volume offer a large number of new and revised entries, it also includes an illustrated glossary of coastal geomorphology, extensive bibliographic citations, and cross-references. It provides a comprehensive reference work for students, scientific and technical professionals as well as administrators, managers, and informed lay readers. Reviews from the first edition: Awarded for Excellence in Scholarly and Professional Publishing: “Honorable Mention”, in the category Single Volume/Science from the Association of American Publishers (AAP) 2005. "The contents and approach are interdisciplinary and, under a single cover, one finds subjects normally scattered throughout scientific literature." "The topics cover a broad spectrum, so does the geographic range of the contributors. ... besides geomorphologists, biologists, ecologists, engineers, geographers, geologists, oceanographers and technologists will find information related to their respective fields ... . Inclusion of appendices ... is very useful. The illustrated glossary of geomorphology will prove very useful for many of us ... ." Roger H. Charlier, Journal of Coastal Research, Volume 21, Issue 4, Page 866, July 2005. "It is an excellent work that should be included in any carefully selected list of best science reference books of the year "Summing Up: Highly recommended. " M.L. Larsgaard, Choice, Volume 43, Issue 6, Page 989, February 2006. "This volume is a comprehensive collection of articles covering all aspects of the subject: social and economic, engineering, coastal processes, habitats, erosion, geological features, research and observation." ... "As with similar works reviewed, I chose to read articles on familiar topics to see if they covered the expected, and some on unfamiliar topics to see if they could be readily understood. The book passed both tests, but the style is denser and more fact-filled than most of the encyclopedias I have reviewed." John Goodier, Reference Reviews, Volume 20, Issue 2, pages 35-36, 2006
Download or read book A Practical Guide to Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis written by Marshall Delph Earle and published by . This book was released on 1984 with total page 88 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Water Wave Mechanics For Engineers And Scientists written by Robert G Dean and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 1991-01-23 with total page 369 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.
Download or read book Physical Geology written by Steven Earle and published by . This book was released on 2016-08-12 with total page 628 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is a discount Black and white version. Some images may be unclear, please see BCCampus website for the digital version.This book was born out of a 2014 meeting of earth science educators representing most of the universities and colleges in British Columbia, and nurtured by a widely shared frustration that many students are not thriving in courses because textbooks have become too expensive for them to buy. But the real inspiration comes from a fascination for the spectacular geology of western Canada and the many decades that the author spent exploring this region along with colleagues, students, family, and friends. My goal has been to provide an accessible and comprehensive guide to the important topics of geology, richly illustrated with examples from western Canada. Although this text is intended to complement a typical first-year course in physical geology, its contents could be applied to numerous other related courses.
Download or read book Handbook of Ocean Wave Energy written by Arthur Pecher and published by Springer. This book was released on 2016-12-07 with total page 305 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is open access under a CC BY-NC 2.5 license. This book offers a concise, practice-oriented reference-guide to the field of ocean wave energy. The ten chapters highlight the key rules of thumb, address all the main technical engineering aspects and describe in detail all the key aspects to be considered in the techno-economic assessment of wave energy converters. Written in an easy-to-understand style, the book answers questions relevant to readers of different backgrounds, from developers, private and public investors, to students and researchers. It is thereby a valuable resource for both newcomers and experienced practitioners in the wave energy sector.
Download or read book The Nature and Analysis of Random Waves in Shallow Water written by Dirk Hermanus Swart and published by . This book was released on 1982 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis written by Billy L. Edge and published by . This book was released on 2002 with total page 902 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures written by Yoshimi Goda and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2000 with total page 478 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Random waves are the most important constituent of the sea environment. They make the design of maritime structures quite different from that of structures on land. In this book, the concept of randomness in waves for the design of breakwaters, seawalls, and harbor structures is fully explored for easy comprehension by practicing engineers. Theoretical aspects are also discussed in detail for further studies by graduate students and researchers. Several additions have been made to this second edition, including a new chapter on extreme wave statistics.
Download or read book Coastal Engineering 2006 written by Jane McKee Smith and published by . This book was released on 2007 with total page 1128 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This Proceedings contains 445 papers presented at the 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which was held in San Diego, California, USA, 3-8 September 2006. The Proceedings is divided into five parts: Waves; Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves; Coastal Management, Risk, and Ecosystem Restoration; Sediment Transport and Morphology; and Coastal Structures. The individual papers cover a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. These papers provide engineers, scientists, and planners state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.
Download or read book Water Waves The Mathematical Theory with Applications written by James Johnston Stoker and published by Courier Dover Publications. This book was released on 2019-04-17 with total page 593 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: First published in 1957, this is a classic monograph in the area of applied mathematics. It offers a connected account of the mathematical theory of wave motion in a liquid with a free surface and subjected to gravitational and other forces, together with applications to a wide variety of concrete physical problems. A never-surpassed text, it remains of permanent value to a wide range of scientists and engineers concerned with problems in fluid mechanics. The four-part treatment begins with a presentation of the derivation of the basic hydrodynamic theory for non-viscous incompressible fluids and a description of the two principal approximate theories that form the basis for the rest of the book. The second section centers on the approximate theory that results from small-amplitude wave motions. A consideration of problems involving waves in shallow water follows, and the text concludes with a selection of problems solved in terms of the exact theory. Despite the diversity of its topics, this text offers a unified, readable, and largely self-contained treatment.
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Download or read book A Summary of the Theory of Oscillatory Waves written by United States. Beach Erosion Board and published by . This book was released on 1942 with total page 58 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996 with total page 514 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
