Download or read book Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone written by Kent K. Hathaway and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 100 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Download or read book Shore Wave Modulation Due to Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone with Applications written by Saad M. M. Abdelrahman and published by . This book was released on 1986 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The omni-present low frequency wave motion (30-300 sec) contains a substantial fraction of the total wave energy inside the surf zone. A more complete description of nearshore wave processes considers incident short period waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber and direction due to relatively slowly varying depth changes caused by the long waves. The energy in the wind wave band is enhanced by side band growth at the sum and difference frequencies of short and long waves (order 15% at the shoreline). The modulation is identified in the analysis of field data as a positive correlation between the long waves and the wind wave envelope near the shoreline. Considering oblique incident waves, a steady longshore current showing a non-vanishing current at the shoreline is found as a result of the non-linear interaction between monochromatic incident and infragravity waves. An analytical solution describing the unsteadiness of the longshore current is developed. Keywords include: Infragravity, Longshore Current, Sediment transport, and Surf zone dynamics. (Theses).
Download or read book Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics written by Ib A. Svendsen and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2006 with total page 748 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as an introductory textbook for graduate students and as a reference book for engineers and scientists working in the field of coastal engineering. As such it gives a description of the theories for wave and nearshore hydrodynamics. It is meant to de-mystify the topics and hence starts at a fairly basic level. It requires knowledge of fluid mechanics equivalent to a first year graduate level. At the end of each topic, an attempt is made to give an overview of the present stage of the scientific development in that area with numerous references for further studies.
Download or read book Nearshore Sediment Transport written by R.J. Seymour and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-11-11 with total page 410 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book represents the efforts of over a hundred individuals who planned and executed the NSTS field experiments, analyzed the billions of data points, and distilled their findings and insights into the summaries found here. Because these experiments were of a scope that will seldom, if ever, be duplicated, and because the program brought together many of the foremost field experimentalists in this country, we all felt from the beginning that it was important to preserve the outcome. This was done in two ways. First, the raw data were made available to any interested investigator within 18 months of the completion of each experiment. Secondly, both the methodology of the experiments and the findings from them were codified in the form of a monograph. This book is that result. I have had the occasion recently (Sediments '87 Proceedings, Vol. 1, pp. 642-651) to assess the NSTS performance. I found that we made giant strides in our understanding of the surf zone hydrodynamics --far more than our fondest expectations at the beginning. We were able to do less than we had hoped about the response of the sediment, largely because of a limited ability to measure it at a point. As I reported in the Sediments '87 assessment, we established a new state of the art in measurement techniques and we demonstrated the effectiveness of large, multi-investigator, instrument-intensive experiments for studying nearshore processes.
Download or read book Geology and Geophysics Program Summary for FY written by and published by . This book was released on 1990 with total page 236 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book A Summary of Research 1995 written by United States. Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA. and published by . This book was released on 1995 with total page 588 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes written by National Research Council and published by National Academies Press. This book was released on 1989-02-01 with total page 130 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Much of the U.S. coastline is rapidly changingâ€"mostly eroding. That fact places increasing pressure on the planners and managers responsible for coastal development and protection, and could have a direct effect on many of the 125 million Americans living within 50 miles of the coast who rely on its resources and beaches for their livelihood or recreation. Although rapid advances have been made in the measurement systems needed to understand and describe the forces and changes at work in the surf-zone environment, their potential for allowing more accurate and reliable planning and engineering responses has not been fully realized. This book assesses coastal data needs, instrumentation, and analyses, and recommends areas in which more information or better instrumentation is needed.
Download or read book Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering written by Philip L. F. Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996 with total page 290 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This volume contains six papers discussing coastal processes, and physical and numerical modeling.In the first paper, Svendsen and Putrevu give an extensive review on the state of understanding of surf-zone hydrodynamics, including subjects such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and instability of nearshore currents and infragravity waves. They point out that the most urgent need is to develop an adequate theory for wave breaking and broken waves in the surf zone.One of the methods for studying the complex coastal processes is to perform laboratory experiments. However, physical models are always plagued by scale and laboratory effects, because the coastal process involves many different length and time scales. In the second paper, Kamphuis presents a detailed discussion on the sources and implications of the scale and laboratory effects on physical modeling.The third and the fourth papers are two parts of the discussion on the mathematical modeling of the meso-tidal barrier island coasts. To understand the dynamics of coastal inlet systems, one can either rely on empirical knowledge and construct various forms of empirical and semi-empirical models (Part I), or develop a set of mathematical models based on the physical processes (Part II). Although these models do not provide the details of the dynamics, they give valuable knowledge of the equilibrium-state relationships. de Vriend and Ribberink give a detailed review on two models, Initial Sedimentation/Erosion models and Medium-Term Morphodynamic models. They have also presented many examples of applications.In the fifth paper, Houston gives a brief review on different methods to mitigate beach loss caused by storms or persistent long-term erosion. He then describes, in detail, the method of beach nourishment, which is also called a beach fill. This paper discusses the information that must be collected to design a beach fill and that should be monitored after the completion of the project.The last paper of this volume shifts our attention to the design of offshore structures, such as gravity structures, floating barges and tankers. Chakrabarti discusses the effects of the uniform and shear currents on fixed and floating structures.
Download or read book Advances In Coastal And Ocean Engineering Vol 2 written by Philip L-f Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996-07-03 with total page 290 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This volume contains six papers discussing coastal processes, and physical and numerical modeling.In the first paper, Svendsen and Putrevu give an extensive review on the state of understanding of surf-zone hydrodynamics, including subjects such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and instability of nearshore currents and infragravity waves. They point out that the most urgent need is to develop an adequate theory for wave breaking and broken waves in the surf zone.One of the methods for studying the complex coastal processes is to perform laboratory experiments. However, physical models are always plagued by scale and laboratory effects, because the coastal process involves many different length and time scales. In the second paper, Kamphuis presents a detailed discussion on the sources and implications of the scale and laboratory effects on physical modeling.The third and the fourth papers are two parts of the discussion on the mathematical modeling of the meso-tidal barrier island coasts. To understand the dynamics of coastal inlet systems, one can either rely on empirical knowledge and construct various forms of empirical and semi-empirical models (Part I), or develop a set of mathematical models based on the physical processes (Part II). Although these models do not provide the details of the dynamics, they give valuable knowledge of the equilibrium-state relationships. de Vriend and Ribberink give a detailed review on two models, Initial Sedimentation/Erosion models and Medium-Term Morphodynamic models. They have also presented many examples of applications.In the fifth paper, Houston gives a brief review on different methods to mitigate beach loss caused by storms or persistent long-term erosion. He then describes, in detail, the method of beach nourishment, which is also called a beach fill. This paper discusses the information that must be collected to design a beach fill and that should be monitored after the completion of the project.The last paper of this volume shifts our attention to the design of offshore structures, such as gravity structures, floating barges and tankers. Chakrabarti discusses the effects of the uniform and shear currents on fixed and floating structures.
Download or read book Ocean System Studies The ocean system written by and published by . This book was released on 1989 with total page 92 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coastal Dynamics 01 written by Hans Hanson and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page 1110 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This collection contains 109 papers presented at the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, held in Lund, Sweden, June 11-15, 2001.
Download or read book Technical Report CERC written by and published by . This book was released on 1983 with total page 44 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Encyclopedia of Modern Coral Reefs written by David Hopley and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2010-11-26 with total page 1226 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Coral reefs are the largest landforms built by plants and animals. Their study therefore incorporates a wide range of disciplines. This encyclopedia approaches coral reefs from an earth science perspective, concentrating especially on modern reefs. Currently coral reefs are under high stress, most prominently from climate change with changes to water temperature, sea level and ocean acidification particularly damaging. Modern reefs have evolved through the massive environmental changes of the Quaternary with long periods of exposure during glacially lowered sea level periods and short periods of interglacial growth. The entries in this encyclopedia condense the large amount of work carried out since Charles Darwin first attempted to understand reef evolution. Leading authorities from many countries have contributed to the entries covering areas of geology, geography and ecology, providing comprehensive access to the most up-to-date research on the structure, form and processes operating on Quaternary coral reefs.
Download or read book The CERCular written by and published by . This book was released on 1988 with total page 338 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology written by Robin Davidson-Arnott and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2019-09-19 with total page 541 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Download or read book Nonlinear Wave Dynamics Selected Papers Of The Symposium Held In Honor Of Philip L f Liu s 60th Birthday written by Patrick Lynett and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2009-02-04 with total page 314 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In September 2006, research leaders in the field of coastal engineering, fluid mechanics, and wave theory met at Cornell University to celebrate the 60th birthday of Prof. Philip L-F Liu. This volume is a compilation of the research papers presented at the symposium, and includes both review and new research papers. Topics such as nonlinear wave theory, tsunamis, wave-structure interaction, turbulence, and modeling of complex sediment transport are discussed in this volume. All of the contributing authors are research collaborators of Prof. Liu, and include leaders in coastal engineering such as Maarten Dingemans, Hwung-Hweng Hwung, Nobu Kobayashi, Inigo Losada, Hocine Oumeraci, Costas Synolakis, and Harry Yeh.
Download or read book Water Waves Theory And Experiment Proceedings Of The Conference written by Mohammad F Mahmood and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2010-04-23 with total page 214 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The objective of this book is to introduce new researchers to the rich dynamical system of water waves, and to show how (some) abstract mathematical concepts can be applied fruitfully in a practical physical problem and to make the connection between theory and experiment. It provides a coherent set of lectures on the current status of water wave theory, including identification of some open problems.
