Download or read book Modification of Wave Spectra on the Continental Shelf and in the Surf Zone written by and published by . This book was released on 1966 with total page 146 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Modification of Wave Spectra on the Continental Shelf and in the Surf Zone written by National Engineering Science Company and published by . This book was released on 1963 with total page 48 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Modification of Wave Spectra on the Continental Shelf and in the Surf Zone written by National Engineering Science Company, Pasadena, Calif and published by . This book was released on 1966 with total page 113 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A study was made to increase the state of the art on wave forecasting over the continental shelf, in shallow water, and in the surf zone. The study includes investigations of certain dynamic actions such as breaking waves and currents which affect the rate of littoral drift; storm surge and flooding, which result in an increase in total water depth, thereby permitting larger breaking waves to occur closer to the shoreline. Theory, field data, and analytical methods are required for the successful completion of the study. (Author).
Download or read book Wave Shoaling written by Robert C. Y. Koh and published by . This book was released on 1966 with total page 108 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This study is a contribution to a larger project for studying the 'Modification of Wave Spectra on the Continental Shelf and in the Surf Zone.' Prior to dealing with a wave spectrum, a study of nonlinear effects on periodic waves appears to be necessary. For this purpose it is assumed that both friction effects and reflection effects are small. Then the principle of conservation of energy flux is applied to a periodic wave. This calculation has already been applied to a Stokes wave (periodic irrotational) to a third order of approximation (Le Mehaute and Webb, 1964). The purpose of this report is to perform the calculation up to the fifth order and to compare the corresponding result, with the third and first order of approximation. It will be the purpose of another (pending) report to present the limits of the principle of conservation of energy flux and to present a method of calculation which takes also into account bottom friction and reflection effect as well as nonlinear effects consistently. (Author).
Download or read book Selected Water Resources Abstracts written by and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 848 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Oceanography written by Defense Documentation Center (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1969 with total page 702 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Soil Pollution written by Defense Documentation Center (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 402 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book U S Government Research Development Reports written by and published by . This book was released on 1966-11 with total page 1014 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coastal estuarine and Nearshore Processes written by Evelyn Sinha and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Ocean Surface Wave Transformation Over a Sandy Sea Bed written by and published by . This book was released on 2009 with total page 61 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Projecting naval forces in littoral areas requires a thorough understanding of the environmental processes that take place in those areas, especially ocean wave evolution, and the associated surf and wave-driven currents. The transformation of wave spectra in coastal environments is predicted with numerical models that include the effects of refraction, nonlinear wave-wave interactions, and parameterizations of wave breaking and bottom friction. This thesis presents a comparison between a new field data set and model predictions of wave transformation in shallow water. An array of 16 wave-measuring instruments was deployed outside the surf zone on the sandy sea bed of Martha's Vineyard's inner continental shelf in the fall of 2007. Data from these instruments are analyzed and the performance of the spectral wave prediction model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) is tested against the observations. The observations generally show gradual wave decay towards the shore with a reduction of as much as 15% of the incident wave height across only 4 km of continental shelf. Wave height variability is observed in both the crossshore and the alongshore directions, suggesting that the effect of bottom processes on wave energy is two dimensional. Comparisons of these observations with SWAN model predictions show that both bottom friction and refraction play a dominant role in the wave energy transformation outside the surf zone. Overall, the spectral wave decay is handled well by SWAN with any of the bottom friction parameterizations activated, including the widely used JONSWAP (Hasselmann et al., 1973) empirical parameterization. Deactivating bottom friction in SWAN yields a slight over prediction of nearshore wave heights.
Download or read book Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports written by and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page 892 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Technical Abstract Bulletin written by and published by . This book was released on with total page 760 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Government wide Index to Federal Research Development Reports written by and published by . This book was released on 1966 with total page 1466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Proceedings of the Eighth Conference on Coastal Engineering written by Joe William Johnson and published by . This book was released on 1963 with total page 840 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Observed Directional Spectra of Shoaling and Breaking Waves written by Matthew I. Borbash and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The evolution of the frequency-directional wave spectrum, E(f, theta), across the inner continental shelf and beach was examined with measurements collected at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineer's Field Research Facility during the recent SandyDuck experiment. Arrays of bottom pressure sensors were deployed on the shelf in 20 m depth and on the beach in depths ranging from 2 - 5 m. These arrays were complemented by a directional wave buoy in 20 m depth and an array of pressure sensors in 8 m depth maintained by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. A preliminary analysis of these data is presented here focused on four case studies that illustrate the observed wave shoaling evolution in both non-breaking and breaking conditions. Estimates of E(f, theta) extracted from array cross-spectra at six cross-shore locations are compared to predictions of linear refraction theory. The present observations support conclusions from previous studies that the cross-shore evolution of dominant wave propagation direction is well described by linear refraction theory. Observations of harmonic peak development at directions aligned with the dominant waves are consistent with theoretical wave-wave interaction rules and previous observations. In both non-breaking and breaking conditions, the observed E(f, theta) are directionally broader than predicted. In contrast to previous observations on a barred beach, the present observations on a planar beach do not show a dramatic broadening of directional wave spectra in the surf zone.
Download or read book Book Catalog of the Library and Information Services Division Subject index written by Environmental Science Information Center. Library and Information Services Division and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 438 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Book catalog of the Library and Information Services Division written by Environmental Science Information Center. Library and Information Services Division and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 444 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
