Download or read book Infragravity Waves Over Topography written by and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Support from the Office of Naval Research (Coastal Geosciences Program, N00014-02-10145), the National Science Foundation (Physical Oceanography, OCE-0115850).
Download or read book Numerical Modelling of Infragravity Waves written by Arshad Rawat and published by . This book was released on 2015 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wind-generated surface gravity waves are ubiquitous at the ocean surface. Their period varies between 2 and 25 seconds, with wavelength varying between a few meters to several hundreds of meters. Longer and, lower frequency surface gravity waves, called infragravity (IG) waves, are associated to these short, high frequency wind-generated waves. These infragravity waves have dominant periods comprised between 30 seconds and 10 minutes, and, when they propagate freely, with horizontal wavelengths of up to tens of kilometres, as given by the linear surface gravity wave dispersion relation. Outside of surf zones, the vertical amplitude of these infragravity waves is of the order of 1-10 cm, while the amplitude of wind-generated waves is of the order of 1-10 m.Given the length scales of the infragravity wavelengths, and despite the fact that the infragravity wave field exhibits much smaller vertical amplitudes than the high frequency wind-driven waves, the infragravity wave field will be a significant fraction the signal measured by the future Surface Water Ocean Topography satellite (SWOT) mission. This infragravity wave field will have to be characterized in order to achieve the expected precision on dynamic height measurements. It appears likely that the above mentioned precision will not be feasible for high sea states and long and steep swells. One of the aims of this thesis was to provide a first quantification of these associated uncertainties. Beyond the SWOT mission, the quantification of the IG wave field is a key problem for the understanding of several geophysical phenomena, such as the understanding of microseisms and ice shelves break up.
Download or read book Shore Wave Modulation Due to Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone with Applications written by Saad M. M. Abdelrahman and published by . This book was released on 1986 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The omni-present low frequency wave motion (30-300 sec) contains a substantial fraction of the total wave energy inside the surf zone. A more complete description of nearshore wave processes considers incident short period waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber and direction due to relatively slowly varying depth changes caused by the long waves. The energy in the wind wave band is enhanced by side band growth at the sum and difference frequencies of short and long waves (order 15% at the shoreline). The modulation is identified in the analysis of field data as a positive correlation between the long waves and the wind wave envelope near the shoreline. Considering oblique incident waves, a steady longshore current showing a non-vanishing current at the shoreline is found as a result of the non-linear interaction between monochromatic incident and infragravity waves. An analytical solution describing the unsteadiness of the longshore current is developed. Keywords include: Infragravity, Longshore Current, Sediment transport, and Surf zone dynamics. (Theses).
Download or read book Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone written by Kent K. Hathaway and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 100 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Download or read book Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone written by Kent K. Hathaway and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 96 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This report summarizes the present state of knowledge on infragravity wave motions (nominally 0.003 to 0.05 Hz). Theoretical and observational studies are presented. Most of the studies discussed herein have been published elsewhere, however a few studies discussed in chapter 4 are presented for the first time in this report Measurements of nearshore waves and currents have shown that a significant amount of the total energy can be contained in the infragravity band, and on highly dissipative beaches the infragravity wave variance often dominates over energy in the incident wave band(0.05 to 0.3 Hz). An 8-month data set of infragravity variance measured at 8-m-depth at the shoreline (runup) was compared with incident wave variance. Analysis of the 8-m-depth data showed that high mode edge waves account for about 50 percent of the total infragravity variance, and as high as 80 percent at times. Significant edge wave heights greater than 20 cm were observed at the 8-m depth. Infragravity wave variance was shown to have a higher correlation with swell variance (C = 0.95) than with sea variance (C = 0.61). This report was motivated, in part, by the need to determine the significance of infragravity waves on coastal erosion and structure damage and by the desire to improve coastal engineering solutions to problems associated with nearshore processes.
Download or read book Infragravity Waves Generated Through Shoaling and Breaking of Wave Groups written by Sriram Sivaram and published by . This book was released on 1992 with total page 372 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Download or read book Topographic and Rotation Effects on Gravity Wave Dynamics in the Atmosphere written by Triantaphyilos R. Akylas and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Theoretical models for the generation of gravity internal waves by flow over topography have been developed, in an effort to understand the role of orographically induced gravity waves in atmospheric turbulence production. For given background wind speed and distribution of buoyancy frequency, the location of the tropopause (the borderline between the troposphere and the stratosphere) is found to have a significant effect, consistent with observations of increased gravity-wave activity over New Mexico when the tropopause is 10-11 km above ground. Based on a finite-amplitude hydrostatic model that accounts for three dimensional effects, a theoretical explanation has been proposed for certain intense oblique gravity wave trains observed downstream of islands. Finally, the effects of periodic variations in the background buoyancy frequency have been studied, Under certain conditions, such fluctuations are found to cause trapping of mountain waves well below the tropopause while, in other instances, they result in unusually strong gravity-wave activity owing to a resonance phenomenon.
Download or read book Sandy Beach Morphodynamics written by Derek Jackson and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2020-06-03 with total page 814 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions. Includes chapters that are written by the world's leading experts, including the latest up-to-date thinking on a variety of subject areas Covers state-of-the-art techniques, bringing the reader the latest technologies/methods being used to understand beach systems Presents a clear-and-concise description of processes and techniques that enables a clear understanding of coastal processes
Download or read book Treatise on Geomorphology written by and published by Academic Press. This book was released on 2013-02-27 with total page 6392 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The changing focus and approach of geomorphic research suggests that the time is opportune for a summary of the state of discipline. The number of peer-reviewed papers published in geomorphic journals has grown steadily for more than two decades and, more importantly, the diversity of authors with respect to geographic location and disciplinary background (geography, geology, ecology, civil engineering, computer science, geographic information science, and others) has expanded dramatically. As more good minds are drawn to geomorphology, and the breadth of the peer-reviewed literature grows, an effective summary of contemporary geomorphic knowledge becomes increasingly difficult. The fourteen volumes of this Treatise on Geomorphology will provide an important reference for users from undergraduate students looking for term paper topics, to graduate students starting a literature review for their thesis work, and professionals seeking a concise summary of a particular topic. Information on the historical development of diverse topics within geomorphology provides context for ongoing research; discussion of research strategies, equipment, and field methods, laboratory experiments, and numerical simulations reflect the multiple approaches to understanding Earth’s surfaces; and summaries of outstanding research questions highlight future challenges and suggest productive new avenues for research. Our future ability to adapt to geomorphic changes in the critical zone very much hinges upon how well landform scientists comprehend the dynamics of Earth’s diverse surfaces. This Treatise on Geomorphology provides a useful synthesis of the state of the discipline, as well as highlighting productive research directions, that Educators and students/researchers will find useful. Geomorphology has advanced greatly in the last 10 years to become a very interdisciplinary field. Undergraduate students looking for term paper topics, to graduate students starting a literature review for their thesis work, and professionals seeking a concise summary of a particular topic will find the answers they need in this broad reference work which has been designed and written to accommodate their diverse backgrounds and levels of understanding Editor-in-Chief, Prof. J. F. Shroder of the University of Nebraska at Omaha, is past president of the QG&G section of the Geological Society of America and present Trustee of the GSA Foundation, while being well respected in the geomorphology research community and having won numerous awards in the field. A host of noted international geomorphologists have contributed state-of-the-art chapters to the work. Readers can be guaranteed that every chapter in this extensive work has been critically reviewed for consistency and accuracy by the World expert Volume Editors and by the Editor-in-Chief himself No other reference work exists in the area of Geomorphology that offers the breadth and depth of information contained in this 14-volume masterpiece. From the foundations and history of geomorphology through to geomorphological innovations and computer modelling, and the past and future states of landform science, no "stone" has been left unturned!
Download or read book Topographic and Rotation Effects on Gravity Wave Dynamics in the Atmosphere written by Triantaphyilos R. Akylas and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page 3 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coastal Dynamics 01 written by Hans Hanson and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page 1110 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This collection contains 109 papers presented at the Fourth Conference on Coastal Dynamics, held in Lund, Sweden, June 11-15, 2001.
Download or read book Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology written by Robin Davidson-Arnott and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2019-09-19 with total page 541 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Download or read book Coastal Risk Shores and Deltas in Peril written by Clara Armaroli and published by Frontiers Media SA. This book was released on 2020-01-30 with total page 193 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The interaction between land and sea is controlled by a number of processes that are in general driven by the equilibrium between environmental forcing components (e.g. hydrodynamic - waves, currents, surges), atmospheric (e.g. winds) and terrestrial (e.g. catchment land cover) and sediment dynamics. In the context of the Anthropocene epoch, the equilibrium in many coastal regions is now often altered by the influence of human activities. Successive human activities globally influence (indirectly) these forcing components, helping magnify the negative impact of extreme meteorological events and sea level rise. Directly, human activity can also influence a number of processes at a local scale within and between the catchment, the sea and the coast. For example, misplaced engineered infrastructure inside these naturally dynamic environments can accentuate disequilibrium, destabilizing shores and deltas. Development in catchments can promote rapid runoff, inducing sometimes-dramatic effects on downstream urbanized areas, the socio-economy as well as on coastal resources and ecosystems. This Research Topic aims to assemble research and review papers that focus on the dynamics of shores and deltas in peril under present conditions as well as in the future context of sea-level rise, climate change and adaptation strategies under various scenarios.
Download or read book Encyclopedia of Geomorphology written by Andrew Goudie and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2013-04-15 with total page 2128 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Geomorphology, the discipline which analyzes the history and nature of the earth's surface, deals with the landforms produced by erosion, weathering, deposition, transport and tectonic processes. In recent decades there have been major developments in the discipline and these are reflected in this major Encyclopedia, the first such reference work in the field to be published for thirty-five years. Encyclopedia of Geomorphology has been produced in association with the International Association of Geomorphologists (IAG) and has a truly global perspective. The entries have been written by an international editorial team of contributors, drawn from over thirty countries, who are all among the leading experts in the discipline. In two lavishly illustrated volumes, Encyclopedia contains nearly 700 alphabetically organized entries to provide a comprehensive guide both to specific landforms and to the major types of geomorphological processes that create them. The Encyclopedia also demonstrates the major developments that have taken place in recent years in our knowledge of tectonic and climatic changes and in the use of new techniques such as modelling, remote sensing and process measurement. Older concepts, however, are not forgotten and provide an historical perspective on the development of ideas. Both accessible and authoritative, Encyclopedia of Geomorphology is destined to become the definitive resource for students, researchers and applied practitioners in the field of geomorphology and the cognate disciplines of geography, earth science, sedimentology and environmental science.
Download or read book Coastal Environments and Global Change written by Gerd Masselink and published by John Wiley & Sons. This book was released on 2014-04-23 with total page 1147 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The coastal zone is one of the most dynamic environments on our planet and is much affected by global change, especially sea-level rise. Coastal environments harbour valuable ecosystems, but they are also hugely important from a societal point of view. This book, which draws on the expertise of 21 leading international coastal scientists, represents an up-to-date account of coastal environments and past, present and future impacts of global change. The first chapter of the book outlines key principles that underpin coastal systems and their behaviour. This is followed by a discussion of key processes, including sea level change, sedimentation, storms, waves and tides, that drive coastal change. The main part of the book consists of a discussion of the main coastal environments (beaches, dunes, barriers, salt marshes, tidal flats, estuaries, coral reefs, deltas, rocky and glaciated coasts and coastal groundwater), and how these are affected by global change. The final chapter highlights strategies for coping with coastal change. Readership: final year undergraduate and postgraduate-level students on coastal courses in a wide range subjects, including geography, environmental management, geology, oceanography and coastal/civil engineering. The book will also be a valuable resource for researchers and applied scientists dealing with coastal environments. Additional resources for this book can be found at: www.wiley.com/go/masselink/coastal
