Download or read book Search for the Perfect Wave written by Kevin Naughton and published by . This book was released on 2015-11-11 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1973, young Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson took to the road with surfboards, camera gear and an untameable desire for adventure. For ten years they scoured the planet in search of perfect waves and the experiences only a traveler on the road encounters. "Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson are two surfers who defined surf travel in the early 1970's. They set off with a board each and rough maps, heading for the most remote possible places in West Africa and beyond, all for the quest of undiscovered surf spots. They felt the flow of travel, and they breathed in the air of the countries they visited, writing the odd mystical surf story for SURFER magazine, sending down the occasional alluring image of a wave breaking off a shipwreck, in front of a mile high sand dune, or at the bottom of a sheer cliff." Craig Jarvis, Tracks magazineThis series of books chronicles their journey. Featuring original photos and text from California, Mexico, El Salvador, Costa Rica, West Africa, Sahara Desert, Morocco, Ireland, France, Fiji, South Africa and beyond.
Download or read book Finding the Perfect Wave written by Cheri H. Miklich and published by Tate Publishing. This book was released on 2010-12 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 'Alli...there's been an accident.' Her voice grew silent. 'What?' I began to hear sobbing coming from the other end of the line. A sick feeling overtook my whole body. The fear of what I was about to hear became a stronger reality with each of Sara's sobs. 'There was a really bad car accident, and Alli...' She paused and began to cry louder. 'H-He's...gone. He's dead.'Seventeen-year-old Alli Whitton's life just can't get any better. She's one of the best surfers in Huntington Beach, spending every day side by side with her boyfriend, Todd, and just days away from entering the halls of her senior year in high school. Then her dad is transferred miles away from her beloved ocean to the middle of the sweltering Arizona desert, and Alli's perfect life is threatened. It takes an uphill turn, however, when she meets Jake, the school's handsome soccer star, whose sandy blond hair and sharp green eyes remind her how to smile once again. All she needs to do is make it ten long months; then she's free to return to California. But when an unthinkable tragedy occurs, Alli is forced into mourning the loss of a dear loved one, leaving her suffering through the grieving process in a new school with none of her best friends to comfort her. Cheri Miklich'sFinding the Perfect Waveis a romantic coming-of-age drama where readers will learn, along with Alli, to smile and laugh even amidst life's darkest hours. A new romance blooms, hope and faith fight to prevail, and a strong realization of passion for her dreams surfaces as she discovers who she is meant to be. Join Alli as she enters the waters of life and seeks to find the perfect wave!
Download or read book Perfect Wave written by Dave Hickey and published by University of Chicago Press. This book was released on 2017-10-23 with total page 214 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When Dave Hickey was twelve, he rode the surfer’s dream: the perfect wave. And, like so many things in life we long for, it didn’t quite turn out----he shot the pier and dashed himself against the rocks of Sunset Cliffs in Ocean Beach, which just about killed him. Fortunately, for Hickey and for us, he survived, and continues to battle, decades into a career as one of America’s foremost critical iconoclasts, a trusted, even cherished no-nonsense voice commenting on the all-too-often nonsensical worlds of art and culture. Perfect Wave brings together essays on a wide range of subjects from throughout Hickey’s career, displaying his usual breadth of interest and powerful insight into what makes art work, or not, and why we care. With Hickey as our guide, we travel to Disneyland and Vegas, London and Venice. We discover the genius of Karen Carpenter and Waylon Jennings, learn why Robert Mitchum matters more than Jimmy Stewart, and see how the stillness of Antonioni speaks to us today. Never slow to judge—or to surprise us in doing so—Hickey powerfully relates his wincing disappointment in the later career of his early hero Susan Sontag, and shows us the appeal to our commonality that we’ve been missing in Norman Rockwell. With each essay, the doing is as important as what’s done; the pleasure of reading Dave Hickey lies nearly as much in spending time in his company as in being surprised to find yourself agreeing with his conclusions. Bookended by previously unpublished personal essays that offer a new glimpse into Hickey’s own life—including the aforementioned slam-bang conclusion to his youthful surfing career—Perfect Wave is not a perfect book. But it’s a damn good one, and a welcome addition to the Hickey canon.
Download or read book Clark Little written by Clark Little and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2022-04-05 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book Surf Diva written by Izzy Tihanyi and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The founders of a surf school for women provide both a practical how-to guide to the sport of surfing and a witty look at the surfing lifestyle, integrating advice from professional surfers and tips on how to stay safe while having fun.
Download or read book Surf Mama written by Wilma Johnson and published by . This book was released on 2014-06-02 with total page 317 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wilma Johnson was living on the west coast of Ireland with her husband and three children, balancing the challenges of being an artist, wife and mother, until, in her forties and with a deep desire to seize the day, she moved to Biarritz and became a surfer.The waters of her new life are sometimes troubled and relationships aren't always steady; she splits with her husband, her children don't speak French and she lives with a growing menagerie. Her first attempts at surfing are disastrous: bruises, broken bones and a damaged ego the result, but when she sets up the Mamas Surf Club and experiences the euphoric feeling of catching her first wave, it's all worth it.
Download or read book Kook written by Peter Heller and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2010-07-13 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
Download or read book Surf written by Casey Koteen and published by Weldon Owen International. This book was released on 2013-10-29 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The editors of TransWorld SURF share inside information and jaw-dropping photography in this comprehensive guide to the one-hundred best surf spots on Earth. The editors of TransWorld SURF magazine have been all over—from Australia and California to emerging destinations in West Africa, Japan, Norway and beyond—searching for the best beaches and waves with some of the world’s top surfers. This book collects amazing photos of the one-hundred top spots around the world, along with the pro tips and travel details you need to go there yourself. SURF: 100 Greatest Waves takes you from classic locales, such as Mexico, Fiji, and Thailand, to inside secret spots like Iceland, India, and Wales. Whether you’re a globetrotting barrelhunter chasing the perfect wave, or a weekend wave-rider dreaming of the perfect vacation, let SURF: 100 Greatest Waves take you there.
Download or read book Surfing written by Elliott Almond and published by The Mountaineers Books. This book was released on 2009-04-20 with total page 216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: CLICK HERE to download a sample chapter from Surfing * Covers gear, fitness, safety, lingo, and rules of the water * Includes basic to intermediate techniques, surf culture, and competitive surfing * Author is an award-winning journalist and life-long surfer Surfing's not just for rebels anymore: anyone with the desire to ride a wave is grabbing a board and heading to the beach. Each year, this artform-cum-sport gains popularity as business executives, grandmas, teenagers, coastal dwellers, and adventure travelers get stoked to catch swells. This new guidebook by sports writer and waterman Elliott Almond is a primer for the uninitiated as well as a handbook for the experienced ready to build on their fundamental skills. Covering topics ranging from basic surfing techniques to surfing fitness prep (including exercises to get your arms ready for all that paddling and stretches to keep you limber) and from history, surf culture, and a complete explanation of gear, to how to find the right board for you, this book also features insights from industry leaders, pro surfers, and instructors. With more than three decades of surfing experience to share, Almond offers clear, authoritative guidance to help those venturing into uncharted waters find their way safely and confidently.
Download or read book Surf Sweat and Tears written by Andy Martin and published by OR Books. This book was released on 2020-03 with total page 232 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “I don’t normally read books about surfers, but this is like Truman Capote, with shorts.” —Lee Child “Andy Martin, to his immense credit, knows that surfers are misfits and accidental comics, as well as great athletes.” —Matt Warshaw “A sublime mixing of stoke and sorrow, hedonism and the macabre—skillfully and deftly penned by someone who had, and still has, intimate access to many of the key players." —Tom Anderson, author of Riding the Magic Carpet: A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave This is the true story of Ted, Viscount Deerhurst, the son of the Earl of Coventry and an American ballerina who dedicated his life to becoming a professional surfer. Surfing was a means of escape, from England, from the fraught charges of nobility, from family, and, often, from his own demons. Ted was good on the board, but never made it to the very highest ranks of a sport that, like most, treats second-best as nowhere at all. He kept on surfing, ending up where all surfers go to live or die, the paradise of Hawaii. There, in search of the “perfect woman,” he fell in love with a dancer called Lola, who worked in a Honolulu nightclub. The problem with paradise, as he was soon to discover, is that gangsters always get there first. Lola already had a serious boyfriend, a man who went by the name of Pit Bull. Ted was given fair warning to stay away. But he had a besetting sin, for which he paid the heaviest price: He never knew when to give up. Surf, Sweat and Tears takes us into the world of global surfing, revealing a dark side beneath the dazzling sun and cream-crested waves. Here is surf noir at its most compelling, a dystopian tale of one man’s obsessions, wiped out in a grisly true crime.
Download or read book Wavescape written by Chris Towery and published by B.E.S. Publishing. This book was released on 2002 with total page 170 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Every surfer's dream book, this beautifully illustrated volume describes the world's best surfing sites. Divided into five sections covering Asia, Africa, Australia, Europe, and the Americas, this volume follows surfers in their search for that perfect wave. 150 photos.
Download or read book All for a Few Perfect Waves written by David Rensin and published by Harper Collins. This book was released on 2009-03-17 with total page 826 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.
Download or read book Legends of Surfing written by Duke Boyd and published by MVP Books. This book was released on 2009-11-07 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)
Download or read book In Search of Captain Zero written by Allan Weisbecker and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2002-09-16 with total page 353 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1996, Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, and set off in search of his long-time surfing companion, Patrick, who had vanished into the depths of Central America. In this rollicking memoir of his quest from Mexico to Costa Rica to unravel the circumstances of Patrick's disappearance, Weisbecker intimately describes the people he befriended, the bandits he evaded, the waves he caught and lost en route to finding his friend. In Search of Captain Zero is, according to Outside magazine, "A subtly affecting tale of friendship and duty. [It] deserves a spot on the microbus dashboard as a hell of a cautionary tale about finding paradise and smoking it away." In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road is a Booksense 76 Top Ten selection for September/October.
Download or read book Waiting for the Perfect Wave Hardcover Surf Shack Coffee Table Book Blue Cover written by Amanda Miggs and published by . This book was released on 2021-08-28 with total page 76 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This amazing coffee table book features high quality surf photography & surfing quotes to add a pop of color and personality to your home decor. Showcasing beautiful surfing photography from all over the world, Waiting For The Perfect Wave is a breathtaking visual tour of oceans great diversity. Book Features you will love: 8.25x11 Inches, LARGE 76 High Quality Pages in Vibrant Colors Hardbound Matte Cover with fascinating Cover Design
Download or read book Incredible Waves written by Chris Power and published by Orca Publications. This book was released on 2013-12-10 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Incredible Waves has just won Illustrated Book of the Year at The British Sports Book Awards! Beautiful, unique, kaleidoscopic, geometrically exquisite...perfect waves are some of Mother Nature's most alluring and mesmerizing creations. Incredible Waves is a stunning coffee-table book of photographs that capture the beauty and majesty of the world's most awesome waves. This breathtaking volume is a collection of the best recent work by 20 top surf photographers including Clark Little, Brian Bielmann, Chris Burkard, Russell Ord, DJ Struntz, Tungsten, Jeff Flindt, Ray Collins and Andrew Shield. Among the most spectacular shots are images of big-wave breaks such as Pipeline, Cloudbreak, The Right, Teahupoo and Jaws – waves which are as dangerous as they are enticing, for photographers as well as surfers.The stories behind the most dramatic shots are revealed in the accompanying text, along with essays and discussions about current trends in surf photography.Readers interested in improving their own photographic skills will benefit from the technique sections throughout the book which offer tips and advice for getting better shots. Everything from basic composition to underwater photography is covered, along with tips for getting the best from board-mounted miniature cameras such as the GoPro.The photos in Incredible Waves are guaranteed to thrill surfers, longboarders, kite surfers and bodyboarders alike...in fact everyone who loves looking at images of the ocean at its most spectacular.
