Download or read book Field Measurements of Wave Runup and the Beach Watertable written by H. Y. Kang and published by . This book was released on 1979 with total page 438 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Water Wave Run up on a Beach II written by Joseph Bishop Keller and published by . This book was released on 1965 with total page 92 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Water Wave Run up on a Beach written by Joseph Bishop Keller and published by . This book was released on 1964 with total page 68 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: While investigating the Tsunami wave project, a numerical method was devised to solve the initial boundary value problem for the equations of the non-linear shallow water theory. The case of one horizontal dimension was considered in a domain bounded by a shore at one end, with the motion of the shoreline taken into account. In addition, this method enabled the incident wave to be introduced at the seaward end of the domain. The water was assumed to be at rest in the domain until the incident wave arrived, and the bottom was assumed to slope uniformly. (Author).
Download or read book Wave Refraction at Redondo Beach California written by Joon P. Rhee and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 94 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wave Runup and the Coastal Watertable written by H. Y. Kang and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wave Runup Mono Lake Tests 1965 a Summary of Theoretical Prediction Methods and Some Comparisons with Experimental Data written by J. R. Bertram and published by . This book was released on 1968 with total page 22 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A literature survey on water-wave runup on sloping beaches is presented along with a comparison of theory and measurements from the 1965 Mono Lake test series. These measurements of runup were about twice as large as predicted because the incident wave height was also about twice as large as predicted. A simplified calculative technique is presented which predicts the measured runup within 10 percent from the wave data measured in deep water. (Author).
Download or read book Limits of Wave Runup and Corresponding Beach Profile Change from Large Scale Laboratory Data Revision written by and published by . This book was released on 2009 with total page 58 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The dataset from the SUPERTANK laboratory experiment was analyzed to examine wave runup and the corresponding upper limit of beach-profile change. Thirty SUPERTANK runs were investigated that included both erosional and accretionary wavey conditions with random and monochromatic waves. The upper limit of beach change U(L) was found to approximately equal the vertical excursion of total wave runup, R(tw). An exception was runs where beach or dune scarps were produced, which substantially limit the uprush of swash motion to produce a much reduced total runup. Based on the SUPERTANK dataset, the vertical extent of wave runup above mean water level on a beach without scarp formation was found to approximately equal the significant breaking wave height, H(bs). Therefore, a new and simple relation R(tw) = H(bs) is proposed. The linear relationship between total runup and breaking wave height is supported by a conceptual derivation. In addition, the relation is extended to U(L) = R(tw) = H(bs), to approximate the upper limit of beach change. This formula accurately reproduced the measured upper limit of beach change from the three-dimensional experiments in the Corps' Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility. For the studied laboratory cases, predictions of wave runup were not improved by including a slope-dependent surf similarity parameter. The limit of wave runup was substantially less for monochromatic waves than for random waves, attributed to absence of low-frequency motion.
Download or read book Field Observations of Wave Runup on a Sand Beach written by Michael John Hoernemann and published by . This book was released on 1967 with total page 94 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Six sets of field measurements of runup resulting from both wind waves and swell were made on a uniform sand beach. Waves were recorded simultaneously directly offshore at a point outside the surf zone. Each individual runup was correlated with a specific wave, using a travel-time plot. Runup occurrences were always found to be fewer in number than wave occurrences, particularly when wind waves were present. Large variations in the runup resulting from waves of a given height were found to exist. These variations in height and ratio of runup to waves were caused in large part by the interaction of successive foam lines. Interaction occurred in the form of retardation by backwash of preceding waves, overtaking by a following foam line, and overriding by a small unbroken wave. It is concluded that the complicated nature of runup resulting from ordinary sea and swell makes it difficult to predict runup accurately from laboratory studies. (Author).
Download or read book Water Wave Run up on a Beach written by and published by . This book was released on 1964 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coastal Engineering 2002 Solving Coastal Conundrums Proceedings Of The 28th International Conference In 3 Vols written by Jane Mckee Smith and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2003-03-14 with total page 4007 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book contains more than 300 papers presented at the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, held in Cardiff, Wales, in July 2002. It is divided into five parts: coastal waves; nearshore currents, swash, and long waves; coastal structures; sediment transport; and coastal morphology, beach nourishment, and coastal management. The papers cover a broad range of topics, including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. Coastal Engineering 2002 provides engineers, scientists, and planners with state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.
Download or read book Coastal Dynamics 95 written by William R. Dally and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 1084 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Ninety-two proceedings papers from the 1995 conference reviewing large-scale field and laboratory experiments in the European Community, Japan, the US, and the former Soviet-Bloc countries of Russia, Bulgaria, East Germany, and Poland. These volume particularly features the discussions from those latter countries since most of their experiments have not been, until now, released to the West. In more specific terms, the papers report findings in wave motion in vegetated and non-vegetated coastal zone, surf zone modeling, planform considerations of beach nourishment, swash dynamics, runup, low- frequency motion, longshore currents, cross-shore transport, and profile evolution. Annotation copyright by Book News, Inc., Portland, OR
Download or read book Coastal Dynamics written by and published by . This book was released on 1995 with total page 1092 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coastal Engineering 2004 Proceedings Of The 29th International Conference In 4 Vols written by Jane Mckee Smith and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2005-04-08 with total page 4836 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This comprehensive and up-to-date volume contains 367 papers presented at the 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, held in Lisbon, Portugal, 19-24 September 2004. It is divided into five parts: waves; long waves, nearshore currents, and swash; sediment transport and morphology; coastal management, beach nourishment, and dredging; coastal structures. The contributions cover a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. Coastal Engineering 2004 provides engineers, scientists, and planners state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.The proceedings have been selected for coverage in:
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Download or read book Water Resources Journal written by and published by . This book was released on 2000 with total page 716 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coastal Dynamics 97 written by Edward B. Thornton and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 1102 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Over 100 field, laboratory, theoretical, and numerical studies focus narrowly on natural shorelines and adjacent regions. They consider such aspects as sand suspension, wave propagation in shallow water, boundary layers and mixing, sediment transport predictors, remote sensing and video, wave-current interaction, longshore currents, beach profiles, rip currents, effects of coastal structures, beach nourishment, morphodynamic modelling, tidal inlets, wave-induced circulation, shingle and mixed grain size, breaking waves, megaripples and bars, nearshore circulation patterns, regional studies, long-term morphodynamics, swash and intertidal, groupiness and long waves, and seabed effects. The reproduced typescripts are in a variety of type styles. Only names are indexed. Annotation copyrighted by Book News, Inc., Portland, OR
Download or read book A Study of Beach Ground water Hydrology and Chemistry written by and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 128 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The measurement of changing water levels across a tropical carbonate beach profile over three tidal cycles has provided basic data used to substantiate a predictive mathematical model of fluctuation in level of a beach water table. The model was developed from nonlinear partial differential equations governing transient, one-dimensional movement of ground water through porous media. A finite-difference algorithm for a digital computer was developed to solve the equations. Beach homogeneity and nonlinear boundary conditions imposed by tidal fluctuations were assumed in these calculations. A method for in situ determination of the permeability-porosity ratio is proposed and demonstrated for the beach studied. The mathematical model of the beach water table is used to develop an accurate method of calculating inflow and outflow at the beach-ocean interface. (Modified author abstract).
