Download or read book Could You Be a Monster Wave Surfer written by Matt Doeden and published by Capstone Press. This book was released on 2020 with total page 113 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surf's up! Do you have what it takes to surf a monster wave? Test your skills against the extreme--and dangerous--sport of big wave surfing. In this sport, one false move can lead to a deadly wipeout. Will you catch a wave to victory?
Download or read book Waking Up in the Sea written by Derek Dunfee and published by . This book was released on 2021-04-13 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: WAKING UP IN THE SEABy Derek DunfeeFormat: HardcoverTrim Size: 8.5 x 11308pgs.Professional big wave surfer/ Photographer/ AuthorI go into detail about surfing and chasing big waves around the world, I also open up about how the concussions and trauma I suffered from big wave surfing impacts me everyday. You'll have a better understanding of why I don't surf big waves any more. I've never told this particular story and I'm excited to share.
Download or read book Ghost Wave written by Chris Dixon and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2011-10-21 with total page 281 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “Takes us to a place of almost mythic power and tells a story that unfolds like a long ride on a killer wave . . . compellingly written.” —Sebastian Junger, New York Times–bestselling author Rising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just fifteen feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: this is the home of the biggest rideable wave on the face of the earth. In this dramatic work of narrative nonfiction, journalist Chris Dixon unlocks the secrets of Cortes Bank and pulls readers into the harrowing world of big wave surfing and high seas adventure above the most enigmatic and dangerous rock in the sea. The true story of this Everest of the sea will thrill anyone with an abiding curiosity of and respect for mother ocean. “A terrific, deeply researched tale about a truly wild place. You couldn’t make up Cortes Bank, or the characters who’ve tried to make it theirs.” —William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize–winning author of Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life “A first-rate account of an amazing phenomenon and the people who tried to conquer and exploit it. A great read.” —Winston Groom, New York Times–bestselling author of Forrest Gump “After reading Chris’ most excellent account of the monstrous waves of the mysterious Cortes Bank—the Bermuda Triangle of the Pacific—I never thought I would ever consider riding a wave like this. But after surviving a five-foot, head-first fall from the stage earlier this year, I think I might be ready.” —Jimmy Buffett
Download or read book Sarah and the Big Wave written by Bonnie Tsui and published by Henry Holt and Company (BYR). This book was released on 2021-05-11 with total page 19 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This stunning nonfiction picture book tells the inspiring story of Sarah Gerhardt, one of the first female big-wave surfers. Have you ever seen a big wave? One that’s twenty, thirty, forty, even fifty feet tall? Here’s a better question: Would you ever surf a big wave? Sarah Gerhardt did—and this is her story. Sarah and the Big Wave, a tale of perseverance and indomitable spirit, is about the first woman to ride the waves at Mavericks, one of the biggest and most dangerous surf breaks in the world.
Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.
Download or read book Force of Nature written by Laird Hamilton and published by Rodale. This book was released on 2008-10-28 with total page 258 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A celebrity surfer shares his strategies for achieving optimal health and spiritual balance, counseling readers on a wide variety of topics, from nutrition and injury prevention to overcoming negativity and embracing one's passions. 100,000 first printing.
Download or read book Inside Maverick s written by Grant Washburn and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2006-09-21 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Every winter when the ocean buoys start to read 10-, 15-, and 20-feet, the coast of Half Moon Bay, California, is transformed by an enormous wave called Maverick's. Recognized as one of the most dangerous big wave surf breaks in the world, Maverick's is big, cold, and sickeningly powerful. It's the best show in town, but until now you could only see it through a pair of binoculars. Inside Maverick's brings you right onto the sickening ledge of a 75-foot wave with jaw-dropping photographs and gritty insider accounts of what it's really like out there. Sports columnist Bruce Jenkins and Maverick's surfer Grant Washburn have interviewed top big wave surfers Peter Mel, Zach Wourmhoudt, Evan Slater, and others to discuss every aspect of the freakish wavefrom the paddle out to the terrifying drop to the inevitable and brutal wipeouts. Covering fifteen years of incredible surfing with photos that have never before been published, Inside Maverick's grants unparalleled access to this legendary wave and the elite core of big wave surfers that are obsessed with challenging it.
Download or read book The Wave written by Susan Casey and published by Anchor Canada. This book was released on 2011-05-31 with total page 434 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.
Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 342 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Download or read book Under the Wave at Waimea written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2021 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.
Download or read book Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2021-10-26 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.
Download or read book Hound of the Sea written by Garrett McNamara and published by HarperCollins. This book was released on 2016-11-15 with total page 200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this thrilling and candid memoir, world record-holding and controversial Big Wave surfer Garrett McNamara--star and subject of the HBO mini-series, 100 Foot Wave--chronicles his emotional quest to ride the most formidable waves on earth. Garrett McNamara set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells. But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes—to risk everything for one thrilling ride? Is riding giant waves the ultimate exercise in control or surrender? Personal and emotional, readers will know GMac as never before, seeing for the first time the personal alongside the professional in an exciting, intimate look at what drives this inventive, iconoclastic man. Surfing awesome giants isn’t just thrill seeking, he explains—it’s about vanquishing fears and defeating obstacles past and present. Surfers and non-surfers alike will embrace McNamara’s story—as they have William Finnegan’s Barbarian Days—an its intimate look at the enigmatic pursuit of riding waves, big and small. Hound of the Sea is a record of perseverance, passion, and healing. Thoughtful, suspenseful, and spiritually profound, McNamara reveals the beautiful soul of surfing through the eyes of one of its most daring and devoted disciples.
Download or read book Big Wave Surfing written by Jim Buckley and published by Carson-Dellosa Publishing. This book was released on 2018-11-30 with total page 48 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: You want intense? How about a mountain of water as high as a building? The world’s greatest big wave surfers face that challenge and conquer whatever the ocean can throw at them! Find out how big wave surfing started, meet the top wave riders, and learn how these daring athletes conquer the world’s biggest waves! This title will allow students to explain events, procedures, ideas, or concepts in a historical, scientific, or technical text, including what happened and why, based on specific information in the text. • Profiles of athletes • Text based questions • Bolded keywords
Download or read book Surfing Brilliant Corners written by Sam Bleakley and published by Alison Hodge Publishers. This book was released on 2010 with total page 196 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Professional longboarder Sam Bleakley details a decade of extreme global surf travel.
Download or read book Surfing the Great Lakes written by P. L. Strazz and published by . This book was released on 2004 with total page 239 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Surfing Mavericks written by Ryan August and published by BookCaps Study Guides. This book was released on 2012-08-15 with total page 46 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Jay Moriarity was a big wave surfer whose positive spirit, relentless dedication, and respect for his sport earned him the admiration of the entire surfing world. Although, he lost his life just one day before his 23rd birthday, he is still an inspiration to not just the surfing community, but to countless people that he met in his life. This book examines his life, but more importantly, it also examines Mavericks and surfing; to understand his life, it's important to understand what he actually did and why; along with a biography on Moriarity, this book also presents an introduction to surfing. LifeCaps is an imprint of BookCaps(tm) Study Guides. With each book, a lesser known or sometimes forgotten life is recapped. We publish a wide array of topics (from baseball and music to literature and philosophy), so check our growing catalogue regularly to see our newest books.
Download or read book Deep in the Wave written by Bear Woznick and published by Hachette UK. This book was released on 2012-07-10 with total page 116 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For world-class surfer Bear Woznick, the ocean has always been the center of his universe. He's spent his entire life with it; riding its waves, learning from it, loving it. The ocean also nourishes the soul as Bear shows us on his surfboard. In DEEP IN THE WAVE, readers ride along with Woznick through the calmest of tides and most turbulent waves. Woznick's portrayal of the beauty and power of the ocean is truly inspiring and showcases the profound meaning surfing has had on his life. From the way a surfboard is painstakingly crafted, to the faith and patience that is required to ride a monster wave, Woznick weaves his relationship to surfing with his relationship to God, relating how the two are often one in the same. Instead of standing on the shore with our toes in the surf, Woznick takes us on the board--to the deep water--to watch and wait--and, if need be, to paddle hard to survive.
