Download or read book Wind Waves at Sea Breakers and Surf written by Henry Bryant Bigelow and published by . This book was released on 1947 with total page 212 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Willard Bascom and published by Anchor. This book was released on 1980 with total page 528 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea written by Willard Bascom and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page 426 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Kim McCoy and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2021-03-16 with total page 400 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Bestselling Classic Updated for Surfers, Sailors, Oceanographers, Climate Activists, and Those Who Love the Sea First published in 1963 and updated in 1979, this classic was an essential handbook for anyone who studies, surfs, protects, or is fascinated by the ocean. The original author, Willard Bascom, was a master of the subject and included a wealth of information, based on theory and statistics, but also anecdotal observation and personal experience. It brought to the general public understanding of the awesome and complex power of the waves. This revision from Kim McCoy adds recent facts and anecdotes to update the book's relevance in the time of climate change. One of the most significant effects of global warming will be sea-level rise. What will this mean to waves and beaches, and what effects are we already seeing? New text and photos cover events such as the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004, Hurricane Katrina flooding of 2005, and the 2011 earthquake and resulting devastation in Fukishima. As well as students, surfers, and the general public, this updated edition of a beloved classic is an essential handbook for climate scientists and ocean activists, providing clear explanations and detailed resources for the constant battle to preserve the shore.
Download or read book Zero Break written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2004 with total page 390 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An anthology of literary pieces and essays on surfing is complemented by classic and modern photographs and artwork and includes Mark Twain's nineteenth-century description in "Roughing It" and Susan Orlean's essay on girl surfers in Maui.
Download or read book American Practical Navigator written by and published by . This book was released on 1962 with total page 1532 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Beach Slope Effect on Breakers and Surf Forecasting written by University of California, Berkeley. Institute of Engineering Research and published by . This book was released on 1950 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.
Download or read book Surf Forecasting written by Gale M. Griswold and published by . This book was released on 1964 with total page 36 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This report is intended for the Navy Meteorologist (and Aerographers mate) who is called upon to make surf forecasts for amphibious operations. It discusses in a basic and introductory manner: (1) waves, their properties and characteristics; (2) surf, its cause and effect; (3) forecasting surf conditions for the case of a straight and parallel beach. The concluding section points to the need for further research in the field. (Author).
Download or read book Breakers and Beach Erosion written by Tokuichi Hamada and published by . This book was released on 1963 with total page 170 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book American Practical Navigator written by Nathaniel Bowditch and published by . This book was released on 1962 with total page 1544 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Surf Manual for Amphibious Operations written by United States. Navy and published by . This book was released on 1945 with total page 64 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book New American Practical Navigator written by and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 1412 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Tables from American Practical Navigator written by Nathaniel Bowditch and published by . This book was released on 1962 with total page 1544 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Invitation to Oceanography written by Paul R. Pinet and published by Jones & Bartlett Learning. This book was released on 2003 with total page 582 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Invitation to Oceanography, Third Edition provides students with a fundamental overview of the four major branches of ocean science: geology, chemistry, physics, and biology. The approach used is a broad one, relying on basic concepts to explain the ocean's many mysteries. Anybody -- whether sailor, surfer, beachcomber, or student -- can learn about the processes and creatures of the oceans by reading this visually exciting book.
Download or read book FMFM written by and published by . This book was released on with total page 718 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
