Download or read book Surf and Rescue written by Patrick Moser and published by University of Illinois Press. This book was released on 2022-06-28 with total page 295 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The mixed-race Hawaiian athlete George Freeth brought surfing to Venice, California, in 1907. Over the next twelve years, Freeth taught Southern Californians to surf and swim while creating a modern lifeguard service that transformed the beach into a destination for fun, leisure, and excitement. Patrick Moser places Freeth’s inspiring life story against the rise of the Southern California beach culture he helped shape and define. Freeth made headlines with his rescue of seven fishermen, an act of heroism that highlighted his innovative lifeguarding techniques. But he also founded California's first surf club and coached both male and female athletes, including Olympic swimming champion and “father of modern surfing” Duke Kahanamoku. Often in financial straits, Freeth persevered as a teacher and lifeguarding pioneer--building a legacy that endured long after his death during the 1919 influenza pandemic. A compelling merger of biography and sports history, Surf and Rescue brings to light the forgotten figure whose novel way of seeing the beach sparked the imaginations of people around the world.

Download or read book Born in OC written by Greer Wylder and published by Archway Publishing. This book was released on 2024-10-28 with total page 397 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For over a decade, I’ve been captivated by the idea of this book, which goes beyond profiling well-known locals in Orange County. It focuses on individuals who contribute significantly to the region’s culture and beyond, showcasing a diverse range of stories. Orange County isn’t just a location; it’s a hub of creativity, entrepreneurship, and innovation—from surf culture to tech giants. Despite stereotypes perpetuated by reality TV, this book highlights the real essence of OC through figures like Steve Van Doren of Vans, Megan Klink of Susan G. Komen, and Anton Segerstrom, whose family’s legacy spans agriculture to the arts. It’s not just about names but narratives, featuring perspectives and careers accompanied by original portraits that capture their essence. Because to me, a place is defined by its people, and Orange County is rich with individuals whose stories deserve recognition.

Download or read book The Replay written by Adam Skinner and published by Abrams. This book was released on 2022-09-20 with total page 64 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Relive iconic moments from Michael Jordan, Jackie Robinson, Simone Biles, Team USA Hockey, and more through illustrated replays of 25 of the greatest moments in sports This richly illustrated book highlights the achievements and stories of notable athletes—male, female, able-bodied and Paralympians—from the 1800s to today, including trailblazers, Olympians, and record-breakers in more than 20 sports, making it a treasure trove for all the family to share. So sit back and enjoy sport’s greatest moments as a read-aloud story from the comfort of your armchair.

Download or read book John Severson s Surf written by John Severson and published by Damiani/Puka Puka. This book was released on 2014 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: John Severson (born 1933) revolutionized pop culture's vision of surfing and surf culture through his prolific artistic output that transverses decades and disciplines. He began his career as a painter, selling his canvases at Long Beach State College. These first works consisted of oil paintings, photographs, drawings and prints relating to Hawaiian and Californian surf culture. In 1958, Severson expanded his repertoire and created a series of popular surf movies, such as Surf Safari, Surf Fever, Big Wednesday and Pacific Vibrations. While his were among the first surf movies, it was the posters associated with them, hugely popular when issued in the 1950s and 1960s, that remain collector favorites today. Showcased in these early posters, his graphic skills translated easily to Surfer magazine, which he founded in 1960. The magazine was the first to celebrate and revolutionize the art and sport of surfing, establishing it as a powerful pop culture phenomenon. The first issue was a 36-page collection of black-and-white photos, cartoon sketches and short articles--every aspect of which was created by Severson himself. His photographs appeared in Life, Sports Illustrated, Paris Match and other print venues. John Severson's SURF explores Severson's surf odyssey through painting, photography, film and publishing. Featuring an interview with the artist by Nathan Howe, artist and curator at Puka Puka, Hawaii, foreword by Gerry Lopez, surfer and co-founder of Lightning Bolt surfboards and afterword by Drew Kampion, author and former editor of Surfer, John Severson's SURF documents the birth of surf culture and serves as a testament to our ocean.

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Download or read book Surfing about Music written by Timothy J. Cooley and published by Univ of California Press. This book was released on 2014-01-02 with total page 238 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Roth Family Foundation music in America imprint"--First printed page.

Download or read book Born Under a Stump written by Russ Hulet and published by iUniverse. This book was released on 2003-05-06 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Born Under a Stump is a biography of Bill Hulet, a legendary bear hunter. Working for various timber concerns, he thinned the black bear who ruined thousands of young trees on the Olympic Peninsula tree farms in Washington State. He quite possibly killed more bear than anyone who ever lived. His life also embraced the era of old growth logging.

Download or read book Herd Register written by American Guernsey Cattle Club and published by . This book was released on 1915 with total page 1148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Surf Nation written by Alex Wade and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2008-09-04 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: If golf is the new football, then surfing must be the new golf. People are flocking to the sport in record numbers, often defying the unforgiving British climate to make the best of what can be some world-class waves. But is it all just surf dudes in VW camper vans heading down for a week's hell-raising in Newquay? Or is the sport attracting a wider range of addicts, often eschewing the established beaches in pursuit of a more solitary, and sometimes more dangerous, goal? In SURF NATION: IN SEARCH OF THE FAST LEFTS AND HOLLOW RIGHTS OF BRITAIN AND IRELAND, Alex Wade takes the pulse of these islands' surfing credentials, and finds a growing army of devotees as well as some stunning locations. A witty and engaging mix of travelogue, reportage and guide to where to find the best breaks, SURF NATION reveals Britain and Ireland to be not just a growing hotbed of surfers but a surf destination of real credibility.

Download or read book Senate documents written by and published by . This book was released on 1895 with total page 1016 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.

Download or read book Women Who Surf written by Ben Marcus and published by Rowman & Littlefield. This book was released on 2017-05-15 with total page 249 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Mavericks and more, a celebration of feminine beauty, athleticism, wisdom, and skill when the surf is bombing—Women Who Surf profiles some of the world’s most inspiring female surfers ranging from Bethany Hamilton to Wrenna Delgado. Each surfer tells her story, highlighting her personal challenges, accomplishments, and philosophy, as well as inspiring readers and providing them with practical how-to suggestions on maximizing not only their own potential in surfing but in life as they lead the charge and push their limits at infamous big-wave spots like Teahupoo in Tahiti, Waimea Bay, and Peahi/Jaws in the Hawaiian Islands. The profiles by accomplished author and editor Ben Marcus are complemented by stunning color photography by leading adventure photojournalist Lucia Griggi. Featured surfers: 1. Rochelle Ballard 2. Wrenna Delgado 3. Bethany Hamilton 4. Maya Gabeira 5. Keala Kennelly 6. Andrea Moller 7. Leah Dawson 8. Mercedes Maidana 9. Easkey Britton 10. Alana Blanchard 11. Bianca Valenti 12. Paige Alms 13. Alison Teal 14. Sally Fitzgibbons 15. Rosy Hodge 16. Janet Macpherson 17. Pauline Ado

Download or read book Surfer s Code written by Patrick J. Moser and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2009-09 with total page 194 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life, world champion surfer Shaun Tomson shares the life lessons he's gathered from decades of surfing-from his boyhood adventures in South Africa to the world tour in the late 1970s to the business world today. For Tomson, surfing is a hobby, a sport, a religion, an obsession and more-it is a way of life. Tomson's life lessons have guided his career to the top of both professional competition and the world of business. Now, he shares these powerful lessons, born on the world's best swells, with all people-including those who might never step on a surfboard. These lessons are born of the collective wisdom of the surf community and are a powerful source of inspiration in the face of extraordinary challenges of every day life.

Download or read book Surf Craft written by Richard Kenvin and published by MIT Press. This book was released on 2014-07-18 with total page 193 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The evolution of the surfboard, from traditional Hawaiian folk designs to masterpieces of mathematical engineering to mass-produced fiberglass. Surfboards were once made of wood and shaped by hand, objects of both cultural and recreational significance. Today most surfboards are mass-produced with fiberglass and a stew of petrochemicals, moving (or floating) billboards for athletes and their brands, emphasizing the commercial rather than the cultural. Surf Craft maps this evolution, examining surfboard design and craft with 150 color images and an insightful text. From the ancient Hawaiian alaia, the traditional board of the common people, to the unadorned boards designed with mathematical precision (but built by hand) by Bob Simmons, to the store-bought longboards popularized by the 1959 surf-exploitation movie Gidget, board design reflects both aesthetics and history. The decline of traditional alaia board riding is not only an example of a lost art but also a metaphor for the disintegration of traditional culture after the Republic of Hawaii was overthrown and annexed in the 1890s. In his text, Richard Kenvin looks at the craft and design of surfboards from a historical and cultural perspective. He views board design as an exemplary model of mingei, or art of the people, and the craft philosophy of Soetsu Yanagi. Yanagi believed that a design's true beauty and purpose are revealed when it is put to its intended use. In its purest form, the craft of board building, along with the act of surfing itself, exemplifies mingei. Surf Craft pays particular attention to Bob Simmons's boards, which are striking examples of this kind of functional design, mirroring the work of postwar modern California designers. Surf Craft is published in conjunction with an exhibition at San Diego's Mingei International Museum.

Download or read book The Kumulipo written by Lili‘uokalani and published by Graphic Arts Books. This book was released on 2021-06-21 with total page 62 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Kumulipo (1897) is a traditional chant translated by Lili‘uokalani. Published in 1897, the translation was written in the aftermath of Lili‘uokalani’s attempt to appeal on behalf of her people to President Grover Cleveland, a personal friend. Although she inspired Cleveland to demand her reinstatement, the United States Congress published the Morgan Report in 1894, which denied U.S. involvement in the overthrow of the Kingdom of Hawaii. The Kumulipo, written during the Queen’s imprisonment in Iolani Palace, is a genealogical and historical epic that describes the creation of the cosmos and the emergence of humans, plants, and animals from “the slime which established the earth.” “At the time that turned the heat of the earth, / At the time when the heavens turned and changed, / At the time when the light of the sun was subdued / To cause light to break forth, / At the time of the night of Makalii (winter) / Then began the slime which established the earth, / The source of deepest darkness.” Traditionally recited during the makahiki season to celebrate the god Lono, the chant was passed down through Hawaiian oral tradition and contains the history of their people and the emergence of life from chaos. A testament to Lili‘uokalani’s intellect and skill as a poet and songwriter, her translation of The Kumulipo is also an artifact of colonization, produced while the Queen was living in captivity in her own palace. Although her attempt to advocate for Hawaiian sovereignty and the restoration of the monarchy was unsuccessful, Lili‘uokalani, Hawaii’s first and only queen, has been recognized as a beloved monarch who never stopped fighting for the rights of her people. With a beautifully designed cover and professionally typeset manuscript, this edition of Lili‘uokalani’s The Kumulipo is a classic of Hawaiian literature reimagined for modern readers.

Download or read book Surfing in the Movies written by John Engle and published by McFarland. This book was released on 2015-10-19 with total page 261 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing has fascinated filmmakers since Thomas Edison shot footage of Waikiki beachboys in 1906. Before the 1950s surf craze, surfing showed up in travelogues or as exotic background for studio features. The arrival of Gidget (1959) on the big screen swept the sport into popular culture, but surfer-filmmakers were already featuring the day's best surfers in self-narrated two-reelers. Hollywood and independent filmmakers have produced about three dozen surf films in the last half-century, including the frothy Beach Party movies, Point Break (1991) and Chasing Mavericks (2012). From Bud Browne's earliest efforts to The Endless Summer (1966), Riding Giants (2004) and today's brilliant videos, over 1,000 surfing movies have celebrated the stoke. This first full-length study of surf movies gives critical attention to hundreds of the most important films.

Download or read book Surfing written by Linda Chase and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2007 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: As the official counterculture sport of the 1960s, surfing was not just a sport but a lifestyle, one long, sun-drenched beach party with endless waves and music, as well as an unapologetically masculine culture. This notion has since been disproved by generations of amazing female surfers who have made an indelible mark on the sport. Surfing: Women of the Waves highlights some of these extraordinary women of surfing, from Linda Benson and Joyce Hoffman in the 1950s and 1960s to Layne Beachley, Sofia Mulanovich, Bethany Hamilton, and the great Lisa Andersen, four-time women's world champion. Today, women of all ages and skill levels have taken their place among the waves-longboarders, shortboarders, goofyfooters, hotdoggers, young girls, and surfer moms-these are the women of the waves!