Download or read book Beneath Breaking Waves written by Juliet Vane and published by Juliet Vane. This book was released on 2020-11-09 with total page 258 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1956, “good girls” don’t surf. Annie, apparently, isn’t a good girl. After the death of their parents, sixteen-year-old Annie finds herself thrust into the guardianship of her brother, Ted. He was her only ally during their unhappy childhood, and she followed him everywhere, including into the waves. Now, however, Ted can’t forgive Annie for the role she played in their parents’ deaths. Annie finds herself in a boarding home in California while he goes off to surf in Hawaii. When Annie finally gets an invitation to visit Ted, she has only the span of Christmas break to convince him to let her stay—and surfing the big waves of the North Shore just might be the key to softening his heart. But if Annie fails to win Ted over, she’ll be shipped back to California, losing the only family she has left. Beneath Breaking Waves is perfect for readers who love the ocean, stories of redemption, and atmospheric tales that transport them back in time. Additional keywords: 1950s, surfing, Hawaii, Oahu, Waimea, Makaha, big waves, surfer girls, mid-twentieth century, sports, ocean, history, girls in sports, coming of age, family, 1956, music, piano

Download or read book Bubble Injection Under Breaking Waves written by James B. Tannahill and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 60 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave energy dissipation due to bubble penetration and inferred turbulent penetration from breaking waves in the surf zone is related to the total energy of dissipation. Bubble injection is inferred from void fraction measurements obtained using a 2.3 meter vertical array of eight conductivity sensors extending from the bottom through the water surface. Potential energy and dissipation associated with bubble injection are calculated and compared with total wave dissipation. Total wave dissipation is calculated from the energy flux balance measured using an array of seven pressure sensors in the surf zone. Percent of total wave potential energy of the bubbles due to spilling breakers is on the order of 0.18% to 0.62%, consistent with past measurements in the surf zone. Percent of the bubble potential energy dissipation rates to total wave dissipation in the cross shore direction is on the order of 8% to 20%. The potential energy dissipation is largest immediately after injection, decaying exponentially after that. Bubble potential energy dissipation results within 1.2 seconds even for void fraction events greater than 36% and usually in less than 1.0 seconds. Energy dissipation was found linearly related (0.95 correlation coefficient) with the ratios of wave height to water depth, a measure of the percent of breaking waves within the surf zone.

Download or read book Breaking Waves written by Michael L. Banner and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 375 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave breaking is a commonly occurring phenomena associated with wave motion in fluids, often inducing significant effects which are of fundamental and technological importance, A familiar illustration is provided with white-capping and microbreaking of the wind-driven ocean sUrface waves, which is believed to play an important part in the transfers of momentum, mass and heat across the air-sea interface, as well as in the production of underwater ambient noise and augmented microwave backscatter. The enhanced hydrodynamic forces associated with the breaking of the more energetic ocean wave components constitute a significant challenge in ocean engineering, coastal engineering and naval architecture. Other less conspicuous but equally important manifestations are the breaking of internal waves and the fila mentation of vorticity interfaces. Despite recent theoretical and observational progress towards a more complete understanding of wave breaking, mathematical descriptions of its onset and consequences are presently lacking. The aim of this Symposium was to bring together theoretical and observational expertise, with the goal of determining the current state of knowledge of wave breaking and providing a stimulus to future research. The Symposium focused on water waves of all scales from capillary waves to ocean swell, but also considered internal waves and the filamentation of vorticity interfaces. Specific topics included were: Fundamental theoretical studies; wave instabilities; routes to breaking. Models of wave breaking. Field observations, including statistical information. Laboratory studies. Shoaling waves, breaking waves on currents, breaking induced by the motion of a ship.

Download or read book Coastal Engineering 2004 Proceedings Of The 29th International Conference In 4 Vols written by Jane Mckee Smith and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2005-04-08 with total page 4836 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This comprehensive and up-to-date volume contains 367 papers presented at the 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, held in Lisbon, Portugal, 19-24 September 2004. It is divided into five parts: waves; long waves, nearshore currents, and swash; sediment transport and morphology; coastal management, beach nourishment, and dredging; coastal structures. The contributions cover a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. Coastal Engineering 2004 provides engineers, scientists, and planners state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.The proceedings have been selected for coverage in:

Download or read book Turbulence In Coastal And Civil Engineering written by B Mutlu Sumer and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2020-03-23 with total page 758 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book discusses the subject of turbulence encountered in coastal and civil engineering.The primary aim of the book is to describe turbulence processes including transition to turbulence; mean and fluctuating flows in channels/pipes, and in currents; wave boundary layers (including boundary layers under solitary waves); streaming processes in wave boundary layers; turbulence processes in breaking waves including breaking solitary waves; turbulence processes such as bursting process and their implications for sediment transport; flow resistance in steady and wave boundary layers; and turbulent diffusion and dispersion processes in the coastal and river environment, including sediment transport due to diffusion/dispersion.Both phenomenological and statistical theories are described in great detail. Turbulence modelling is also described, and several examples for modelling of turbulence in steady flow and wave boundary layers are presented.The book ends with a chapter containing hands-on exercises on a wide variety of turbulent flows including experimental study of turbulence in an open-channel flow, using Laser Doppler Anemometry; Statistical, correlation and spectral analysis of turbulent air jet flow; Turbulence modelling of wave boundary layer flows; and numerical modelling of dispersion in a turbulent boundary layer, a set of exercises used by the authors in their Masters classes over many years.Although the book is essentially intended for professionals and researchers in the area of Coastal and Civil Engineering, and as a text book for graduate/post graduate students, the contents of the book will, however, additionally provide sufficient background in the study of turbulent flows relevant to many other disciplines, such as Wind Engineering, Mechanical Engineering, and Environmental Engineering.

Download or read book Springer Handbook of Experimental Fluid Mechanics written by Cameron Tropea and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2007-10-09 with total page 1570 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Accompanying DVD-ROM contains ... "all chapters of the Springer Handbook."--Page 3 of cover.

Download or read book The Stand Up Paddler s Guide to Southern California written by David Womack and published by Menasha Ridge Press. This book was released on 2015-05-18 with total page 226 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Stand-Up Paddler's Guide to Southern California by local veteran outdoorsman David Womack is a beach-by-beach guide to paddling in the coastal waters from San Diego to Santa Barbara. The book covers every application of stand-up paddling from touring to surfing. This is the book you need if you want to maximize your SUP experience.

Download or read book Stratigraphy A Modern Synthesis written by Andrew D. Miall and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on 2022-03-02 with total page 528 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The updated textbook is intended to serve as an advanced and detailed treatment of the evolution of the subject of stratigraphy from its disparate beginnings as separate studies of sedimentology, lithostratigraphy, chronostratigraphy, etc., into a modern integrated discipline in which all components are necessary. There is a historical introduction, which now includes information about the timeline of the evolution of the components of modern stratigraphy. The elements of the various components (facies analysis, sequence stratigraphy, mapping methods, chronostratigraphic methods, etc.) are outlined, and a chapter discussing the modern synthesis is included near the end of the book, which closes with a discussion of future research trends in the study of time as preserved in the stratigraphic record.

Download or read book Elements of Physical Oceanography written by and published by Academic Press. This book was released on 2009-08-26 with total page 658 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Elements of Physical Oceanography is a derivative of the Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences, Second Edition and serves as an important reference on current physical oceanography knowledge and expertise in one convenient and accessible source. Its selection of articles—all written by experts in their field—focuses on ocean physics, air-sea transfers, waves, mixing, ice, and the processes of transfer of properties such as heat, salinity, momentum and dissolved gases, within and into the ocean. Elements of Physical Oceanography serves as an ideal reference for topical research. References related articles in physical oceanography to facilitate further research Richly illustrated with figures and tables that aid in understanding key concepts Includes an introductory overview and then explores each topic in detail, making it useful to experts and graduate-level researchers Topical arrangement makes it the perfect desk reference

Download or read book Mixing and Dispersion in Stably Stratified Flows written by P. A. Davies and published by Oxford University Press. This book was released on 1999 with total page 668 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Stratified flows are important in determining how various atmospheric and environmental processes occur. The book investigates these processes and focuses on the methods by which pollutants are mixed and dispersed in natural and industrial environments.

Download or read book Transformation of Breaking Wave Parameters Over a Submarine Bar written by William L. Wood and published by . This book was released on 1971 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Cyclic Behaviour of Soils and Liquefaction Phenomena written by Th. Triantafyllidis and published by CRC Press. This book was released on 2004-07-01 with total page 716 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This conference brought together specialists in cyclic soil behaviour in order to discuss important results and new ideas in the field, and to share expertise in design of various problems involving cyclic or dynamic behaviour of soils. This book covers a variety of topics: * Theory and analysis, including constitutive relations of soil under cyclic loading, post-seismic stability analysis of soil/structure, dynamic stability of structures, liquefaction analysis of marine structures due to cyclic loading, and more * Cyclic and dynamic laboratory and model testing, centrifuge testing and in-situ testing. * Numerical analysis, including computer methods * Design of industrial applications and marine structures, installation methods of piles, vibrocompaction, densification of ballast in railway structures, case studies of earthquakes and post-liquefaction observations.

Download or read book Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences written by and published by Academic Press. This book was released on 2019-04-12 with total page 4318 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The oceans cover 70% of the Earth’s surface, and are critical components of Earth’s climate system. This new edition of Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences, Six Volume Set summarizes the breadth of knowledge about them, providing revised, up to date entries as well coverage of new topics in the field. New and expanded sections include microbial ecology, high latitude systems and the cryosphere, climate and climate change, hydrothermal and cold seep systems. The structure of the work provides a modern presentation of the field, reflecting the input and different perspective of chemical, physical and biological oceanography, the specialized area of expertise of each of the three Editors-in-Chief. In this framework maximum attention has been devoted to making this an organic and unified reference. Represents a one-stop. organic information resource on the breadth of ocean science research Reflects the input and different perspective of chemical, physical and biological oceanography, the specialized area of expertise of each of the three Editors-in-Chief New and expanded sections include microbial ecology, high latitude systems and climate change Provides scientifically reliable information at a foundational level, making this work a resource for students as well as active researches

Download or read book Dynamics of Water Surface Flows and Waves written by Yasunori Watanabe and published by CRC Press. This book was released on 2022-11-11 with total page 351 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Dynamics of Water Surface Flows and Waves provides theoretical descriptions of the whole life of water surface waves through their birth, propagation, evolution and finally breaking. While initial capillary waves are created via instability at air-water interfaces, potential wave theories adequately describe interactions of waves with current, bathymetry and structure. In the final breaking stage, potential fluid motions in the waves rapidly evolve into vortical turbulent flows that disturb the surfaces, resulting in entrainment of air-bubbles and ejection of sea spray in bursting bubbles floating on the surface. All theories and analytical methods required to understand the series of wave processes, over diverse areas of subjects, including turbulence, diffusion, vortex and capillary dynamics, shallow water approach, and stability analysis, as well as the conventional potential wave theory, are comprehensively covered in this book. All of the mathematical formulas are consistently developed from theorems and linked with physics, which provides theoretical understanding and further interest in wave dynamics. This is an ideal graduate-level textbook or reference for engineers and researchers in the fields of fluid and wave mechanics, coastal and ocean engineering.

Download or read book Small Scale Processes in Geophysical Fluid Flows written by Lakshmi H. Kantha and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2000-08-07 with total page 921 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: While ocean waves are the most visible example of oceanic mixing processes, this macroscale mixing process represents but one end of the spectrum of mixing processes operating in the ocean. At the scale of a typical phytoplanktoic diatom or larval fish inhabiting these seas, the most important mixing processes occur on the molecular scale - at the scale of turbulence. Physical-biological interactions at this scale are of paramount importance to the productivity of the seas (fisheries) and the heat balance that controls large scale ocean climate phenomena such as El Niño and tornadoes. This book grew out of the need for a comprehensive treatment of the diverse elements of geophysical fluid flow at the microscale. Kantha and Clayson have arranged a logial exposition of the various mixing processes operating within and between the oceans and its boundaries with the atmosphere and ocean floor. The authors' intent is to develop a volume that would provide a comprehensive treatment of the fundamental elements of ocean mixing so that students, academics, and professional fluid dynamicists and oceanographers can access this essential information from one source. This volume will serve as both a valuable reference tool for mathematically inclined limnologists, oceanographers and fluid modelers. * Simple models of oceanic and atmospheric boundary layers are discussed* Comprehensive and up-to-date review* Useful for graduate level course* Essential for modeling the oceans and the atmosphere* Color Plates

Download or read book Music and Suicide written by Jeff Clark and published by Farrar, Straus and Giroux. This book was released on 2014-10-07 with total page 59 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Flower on, happy paperwhite When you bloom you're gorgeous when you wilt --"Drugs" Jeff Clark's first collection, The Little Door Slides Back, was hailed as an unclassifiable classic in underground American writing: "Remarkable for its liveliness and intelligence" (Chicago Review), "Amazing and ambitious" (Rain Taxi), "a 120-page spell" (American Letters & Commentary), "A happy sadomasochism, a luxuriance of prurience" (Boston Review), "Devoted to the idea of possibility in the poet who operates as free agent, looking to the weather not for the springs of dailiness but for some message from the aether" (Arras), "[Clark's work] creates . . . our own precursors, precursors who behave differently than our supposed avant-garde" (Rhizome). In Music and Suicide Clark is no longer underground. He moves away from the sinisterism and mask-ridden black humor of his debut, toward new realms of clarity, dissent, and sex. Neither a traditionalist nor an experimentalist-if being one means not being the other-Clark once again is engaged in radically beautiful poem-making, but, as Guy Kyser states, "Something affected him down in the desert."

Download or read book The Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone written by Alfred James Olsen and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 164 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Simultaneous measurements of sea surface elevation and onshore and alongshore water particle velocities were measured at three locations within the surf zone using two capacitance type penetrating wave staffs and three two-component electromagnetic flow meters. The probability density functions, pdf, for the sea surface elevation were always highly positively skewed, whereas the pdf's for the velocities were both negatively and positively skewed. Mean values of the onshore and alongshore components of flow reflected the influence of a rip current frequently observed just south of the instrument locations. Strong harmonics in the spectra of sea surface fluctuations and particle velocities infer nonlinear conditions. Coherence values between waves and onshore flow were high, ranging above 0.9. The coherence between waves and onshore flow was used to separate the turbulence and wave-induced velocity components. Over the range of collapsing to spilling breakers a reasonable value for the ratio of turbulent to wave-induced velocity was determined to be approximately 0.75. Saturation regions were found in the wave and velocity energy-density spectra at higher frequencies as evidenced by -5 and -3 slopes, respectively. (Author).