Download or read book Amazing Surfing Stories written by Alex Wade and published by Fernhurst Books Limited. This book was released on 2012-09-28 with total page 187 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This eclectic mix of surfing stories has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. Be thrilled by legendary surfers, as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike, and many are illustrated with colour photographs.
Download or read book Cocaine Surfing written by Chas Smith and published by Rare Bird Books. This book was released on 2019-12-11 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.
Download or read book The Big Drop written by John Long and published by Falcon Guides. This book was released on 1999 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A classic collection of big wave surfing stories that heralded a new era in surfing literature--32 tantalizing and terrifying true tales from the sport's pioneers
Download or read book Ocean in Motion written by Paul Mason and published by Capstone. This book was released on 2008 with total page 36 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: What links all of these subjects? Surfing giant waves Surviving killer currents How the ocean ate the land Simple-they're all Extreme! Ocean in Motion! is packed full of incredible information about surfing, from the story of the biggest wave ever ridden and where do waves come from to, most amazing of all, how it's possible to survive on a wave as big as a city block. Extreme is an action-packed series that brings together incredible tales and secret facts about the most radical things you really want to know---such as how to avoid a shark, survive a snowstorm, or spot the world's most poisonous snake! Discover the fascinating stories behind how things work and why they happen.. Book jacket.
Download or read book Incredible Waves written by Chris Power and published by Orca Publications. This book was released on 2013-12-10 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Incredible Waves has just won Illustrated Book of the Year at The British Sports Book Awards! Beautiful, unique, kaleidoscopic, geometrically exquisite...perfect waves are some of Mother Nature's most alluring and mesmerizing creations. Incredible Waves is a stunning coffee-table book of photographs that capture the beauty and majesty of the world's most awesome waves. This breathtaking volume is a collection of the best recent work by 20 top surf photographers including Clark Little, Brian Bielmann, Chris Burkard, Russell Ord, DJ Struntz, Tungsten, Jeff Flindt, Ray Collins and Andrew Shield. Among the most spectacular shots are images of big-wave breaks such as Pipeline, Cloudbreak, The Right, Teahupoo and Jaws – waves which are as dangerous as they are enticing, for photographers as well as surfers.The stories behind the most dramatic shots are revealed in the accompanying text, along with essays and discussions about current trends in surf photography.Readers interested in improving their own photographic skills will benefit from the technique sections throughout the book which offer tips and advice for getting better shots. Everything from basic composition to underwater photography is covered, along with tips for getting the best from board-mounted miniature cameras such as the GoPro.The photos in Incredible Waves are guaranteed to thrill surfers, longboarders, kite surfers and bodyboarders alike...in fact everyone who loves looking at images of the ocean at its most spectacular.
Download or read book Surfing s Greatest Misadventures written by Paul Diamond and published by Casagrande Press LLC. This book was released on 2006 with total page 403 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing's Greatest Misadventures contains thirty of themost engaging, humorous and unbelievable stories ofsurfing life from the past fifty years. Culled fromhundreds of submissions, the non-fiction stories selectedfor this one-of-a-kind collection run the gamut from theterrifying to the comical to the downright bizarre. Thestories ......
Download or read book Maverick s written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2000-08 with total page 286 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With heart-stopping photography and a driving text, "Maverick's" tracks the five most dangerous days in the break's history. Surf journalist Matt Warshaw weaves into this vivid record the complete, unconventional history of big-wave surfing, from its Hawaiian origins through to the modern drama of tow-in surfers. More than 130 color and b&w illustrations.
Download or read book Amazing Diving Stories written by John Bantin and published by Fernhurst Books Limited. This book was released on 2012-07-27 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This collection of true diving stories makes for compelling reading for all divers. Enjoy classic tales of this extreme watersport, from thrilling wreck discoveries to encounters with the bizarre and the beautiful. There are stories of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. Tales of the exciting and the extreme rub shoulders with more poetic pieces about the people and places that make up the folklore of this fascinating sport. The author's global tour takes you everywhere, from Indonesia to the Caribbean and from the chill waters of Northern Europe to the reefs of the Pacific. Every ocean of the world is explored, making this essential reading – or a wonderful gift – for divers everywhere.
Download or read book Legends of Surfing written by Duke Boyd and published by MVP Books. This book was released on 2009-11-07 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)
Download or read book High Surf written by Tim Baker and published by HarperCollins Australia. This book was released on 2010-06-01 with total page 39 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Inspiring stories from an eclectic cast of surfers 'tim Baker may well be the most brilliant and incisive surf writer working today, or on any givenday for the last twenty years.' worldprosurfers.com Leading surf journalist tim Baker has profiled the surfing world's most inspiring characters, encountered over two decades of surf writing, to highlight the life lessons and boundless inspiration to be gained from a lifestyle built around waveriding. From salty old surf legends to modern pro-surf stars, to surfers from all walks of life - writers, musicians, aid workers, ethicists - the common theme in all these surfers' lives is how their personal journeys have been shaped and informed by their experiences in the ocean. 'I think one of the most powerful outcomes of surfing is how it creates community and shared experiences across all sections of society. Surfing is a lingua franca of nature. Even dolphins and other sea creatures surf.' Vezen Wu, scientist 'Just the feeling of the water on you, diving and paddling, duck-diving your first wave, seeing a set come, turning around and stroking into it, that initial rush as you drop down the face, the jolts of acceleration as you go through the manoeuvres - there's nothing like it. the only thing that actually comes close to riding waves is sex.' Mark Richards, four-time world surfing champion 5% of author royalties from this book will be distributed to the following charities: Surf Aid International; Disabled Surfers Association; Life Rolls On; Surfers Healing; Surfrider Foundation
Download or read book The Big Juice written by John Long and published by Falcon Guides. This book was released on 2011 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Incredible stories of a new generation of thrill-seeking, death-defying surfers and stunning, full-color photography of monster waves fill the pages of this new collection by John Long and former surfing pro Sam George.
Download or read book Waves written by Tim Baker and published by HarperSports. This book was released on 2005 with total page 288 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A collection of surf stories from writers who have shaped the face of Australian surf journalism. This book provides a window into the lifestyle and attitude that is common to all in the surfing world.
Download or read book Eddie Would Go written by Stuart Holmes Coleman and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 2004-02-07 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule'a. Eddie Would Go is the compelling story of Eddie Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii. "Splendid...clear and fascinating."--Greg Ambrose, San Francisco Chronicle "Enlightening...an impressive history...of surfing...of Hawaiian culture both at home and across the world."--Matt Walker, Surfing Magazine "Eddie Aikau's life is a story waiting to be told, and it could not have been told any better than in Stuart Coleman's Eddie Would Go. This is a bestseller in the same way as the The Perfect Storm."--Peter Cole, Big-Wave Surfing Pioneer "It's amazing the impact Eddie had on the surfing world and Hawaii. It touches the community at a real grass-roots level."--Kelly Slater, World Champion Surfer "A meaningful biography of a surfing hero...extraordinary." -Terry Rogers, The San Diego Union-Tribune "Coleman, a surfer himself, does an admirable job of de-mystifying this remarkable man." -Terry Tomalin, The St. Petersburg Times "Fantastic...a treat to read."-Mark Cunningham, Honolulu Weekly
Download or read book Surf Lessons written by Earl Shores and published by One Way Road Press. This book was released on 2016-08-21 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surf Lessons is a new book from author and longtime East Coast surfer Earl Shores.Put your toes in the sand and the wax in your hand as you drop into the pages of this vibrant set of surf stories from Earl Shores. It's a Top 20 of his best work, including favorites from his early days with Eastern Surf Magazine. And it's one of the few surf books ever written from a purely East Coast perspective.That means Surf Lessons isn't full of heroic gnarly surf dudes trekking the globe for perfect waves. Instead, Shores aims his focus on the ordinary moments of the surfing experience. After putting the reader in his "regular guy" flip-flops, he never fails to capture the passion that inspires surfers to rise before dawn to catch the uncrowded early morning calm.This is a book that all readers can enjoy.So even if you've never climbed into a thick wetsuit for a wintertime wave fix, you will still enjoy Surf Lessons. Just bring your sense of adventure and your sense of humor. And be ready to shake the sand from your trunks and the water from your ears as you turn the final page.
Download or read book Five Hundred Summer Stories written by Greg MacGillivray and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2022-11-15 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The filmmaker of the surfing documentary Five Summer Stories and pioneer of the IMAX format tells stories from his adventurous life and groundbreaking career in Hollywood and beyond. Greg MacGillivray is a man with stories. Stories of being a surfer kid in California, and making his first movie at the age of 13; of his early days as a filmmaker, creating iconic surfing documentaries such as the cult classic 5 Summer Stories, with his partner in crime, Jim Freeman; of his years in Hollywood, working in Hollywood with such legends such as Stanley Kubrick (on The Shining, no less); and of his work pioneering the 70mm IMAX film format, creating some of the most spectacular, groundbreaking cinematography celebrating the natural world. There are stories of almost dying in New Guinea, flying into eyes of hurricanes, the perils of shooting in the USSR, and how filming Mount Everest changed his life. Greg MacGillivray has led a life like no other, - and for the first time, he’s telling his story. In this fascinating memoir, Greg chronicles his personal journey as an artist, a self-made filmmaker, a father, and an entrepreneur at the head of the most successful documentary production company in history. It is also a story about MacGillivray’s deep commitment to family, to ocean conservation, and to raising awareness about the importance of protecting our natural heritage for generations to come. Contributions by legendary surfers Gerry Lopez and Bill Hamilton, and filmmakers such as Stephen Judson and Brad Ohlund, plus 40 QR codes to extraordinary film clips, add give even more depth and perspective to this amazing journey. Greg’s compelling stories of adventure, surfing, love, loss, inspiration, conservation, and filmmaking give you a front seat to an extraordinary life - and, just like his IMAX movies, makes you feel as if you are there. EXCLUSIVE VIDEOS: Includes 40 QR codes linked to rare, incredible videos that bring Greg MacGillvray’s stories to life. BEHIND-THE-SCENES SECRETS: Learn the history of the IMAX film format, and how filmmakers achieve an immersive and awe-inspiring visual experience. FROM SURFER TO MOVIE LEGEND: Follow the journey of a man who went from a teenage surfer to the most successful documentary filmmaker in history with hundreds of amazing escapades and achievements in between.
Download or read book Women Who Surf written by Ben Marcus and published by Rowman & Littlefield. This book was released on 2017-05-15 with total page 249 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Mavericks and more, a celebration of feminine beauty, athleticism, wisdom, and skill when the surf is bombing—Women Who Surf profiles some of the world’s most inspiring female surfers ranging from Bethany Hamilton to Wrenna Delgado. Each surfer tells her story, highlighting her personal challenges, accomplishments, and philosophy, as well as inspiring readers and providing them with practical how-to suggestions on maximizing not only their own potential in surfing but in life as they lead the charge and push their limits at infamous big-wave spots like Teahupoo in Tahiti, Waimea Bay, and Peahi/Jaws in the Hawaiian Islands. The profiles by accomplished author and editor Ben Marcus are complemented by stunning color photography by leading adventure photojournalist Lucia Griggi. Featured surfers: 1. Rochelle Ballard 2. Wrenna Delgado 3. Bethany Hamilton 4. Maya Gabeira 5. Keala Kennelly 6. Andrea Moller 7. Leah Dawson 8. Mercedes Maidana 9. Easkey Britton 10. Alana Blanchard 11. Bianca Valenti 12. Paige Alms 13. Alison Teal 14. Sally Fitzgibbons 15. Rosy Hodge 16. Janet Macpherson 17. Pauline Ado
Download or read book Raising a Soul Surfer written by Rick Bundschuh and published by Gospel Light Publications. This book was released on 2013-07-25 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Cheri Hamilton, Bethany’s mom, tells the inspiring story of the Hamilton Family. Bethany Hamilton’s incredible story of surviving and thriving in the wake of a shark attack, told in her best-selling autobiography Soul Surfer, has sold more than 1.5 million copies. Yet her family’s adventures started long before Bethany lost her arm and became a pro surfer. Now Cheri Hamilton, Bethany’s mom, tells the inspiring story of the Hamilton Family. Raising a Soul Surfer invites readers to journey with the Hamiltons to the lush islands of Hawaii, to experience a worldwide news event, Bethany’s shark attack, from her parents’ point of view. Witness the many small steps of faith and how God stepped in and gave them a higher purpose.
