Download or read book The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind written by Peter Janssen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-10-28 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Download or read book Wind Waves written by Blair Kinsman and published by Courier Corporation. This book was released on 1984-01-01 with total page 706 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this classic study, a renowned student of ocean wave theory examines the data requirements and details of the power spectral analysis required to make the wave revolution intelligible. Although the discussions center on waves, once the techniques are understood, they can be applied to many other areas. After outlining the nature of waves and wave processes and their methods of measurement and classification, the author provides a detailed exploration that relies heavily on mathematical models. Topics include perturbations of irrotational motion, energy considerations, wave generations by wind, and much more. The text is enhanced and clarified by 270 photos, figures, and tables. A helpful bibliography and indexes conclude this indispensable addition to the oceanographer's library.
Download or read book Wind Waves in Oceans written by Igor Lavrenov and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-11-11 with total page 381 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.
Download or read book Wind Generated Ocean Waves written by I.R. Young and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 1999-03-23 with total page 307 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably.This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Download or read book Wind Waves at Sea Breakers and Surf written by Henry Bryant Bigelow and published by . This book was released on 1947 with total page 212 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wind driven Waves written by Lev Fedorovich Titov and published by Coronet Books. This book was released on 1971 with total page 266 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book The Natural Navigator written by Tristan Gooley and published by The Experiment. This book was released on 2012-06-05 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the New York Times-bestselling author of The Secret World of Weather and The Lost Art of Reading Nature’s Signs, learn to tap into nature and notice the hidden clues all around you Before GPS, before the compass, and even before cartography, humankind was navigating. Now this singular guide helps us rediscover what our ancestors long understood—that a windswept tree, the depth of a puddle, or a trill of birdsong can help us find our way, if we know what to look and listen for. Adventurer and navigation expert Tristan Gooley unlocks the directional clues hidden in the sun, moon, stars, clouds, weather patterns, lengthening shadows, changing tides, plant growth, and the habits of wildlife. Rich with navigational anecdotes collected across ages, continents, and cultures, The Natural Navigator will help keep you on course and open your eyes to the wonders, large and small, of the natural world.
Download or read book Operational Analysis and Prediction of Ocean Wind Waves written by Madhav L. Khandekar and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-03-07 with total page 223 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This monograph is an attempt to compile the present state of knowledge on ocean wave analysis and prediction. The emphasis of the monograph is on the development of ocean wave analysis and predic tion procedures and their utility for real-time operations and appli cations. Most of the material in the monograph is derived from journal articles, research reports and recent conference proceedings; some of the basic material is extracted from standard text books on physical oceanography and wind waves. Ocean wave analysis and prediction is becoming an important activity in the meteorological and oceanographic services of many countries. The present status of ocean wave prediction may be compar able to the status of numerical weather prediction of the mid-sixties and early seventies when a number of weather prediction models were developed for research purposes, many of which were later put into operational use by meteorological services of several countries. The increased emphasis on sea-state analysis and prediction has created a need for a ready reference material on various ocean wave analysis and modelling techniques and their utility. The present monograph is aimed at fulfilling this need. The monograph should prove useful to the ocean wave modelling community as well as to marine forecasters, coastal engineers and offshore technologists. The monograph could also be used for a senior undergraduate (or a first year graduate) level course in ocean wave modelling and marine meteorology.
Download or read book Wind Waves at Se written by Henry Bryant Bigelow and published by . This book was released on 2012-06-01 with total page 216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Hydrographic Office Publication, No. 609.
Download or read book Wind Waves and Swell written by and published by . This book was released on 1944 with total page 94 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Techniques for Forecasting Wind Waves and Swell written by United States. Hydrographic Office and published by . This book was released on 1951 with total page 120 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wind Waves at Sea written by Henry B. Bigelow and published by . This book was released on 2002-12-01 with total page 216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is a reprint of an excellent 1947 U. S. Naval Hydrographic Office publication on wind, waves, breakers and surf. Chapters include: The Physical Nature of Wind Waves, The Dimensions of Waves, The Contours of Waves (effects of currents, shoals, measurement), Seas and Swells, The Frequency of High
Download or read book Wave Forecasting Relationships for the Gulf of Mexico written by Charles L. Bretschneider and published by . This book was released on 1956 with total page 40 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wind Waves Their Generation and Propagation on the Ocean Surface With Illustrations written by Blair Kinsman and published by . This book was released on 1965 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Download or read book Swell written by Evan Slater and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2012-05-09 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.
Download or read book Comparison of Wind Wave and Uniform Wave Effects on a Beach written by Peter Truman Kraai and published by . This book was released on 1969 with total page 96 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A series of two dimensional experiments were made in a wave channel to compare the nearshore beach profiles formed by wind generated waves with the profiles formed by periodic machine-generated waves. Although equilibrium was easily obtained in the case of uniform periodic wave exposure, it was not possible to achieve equilibrium when the beach was exposed to wind waves. Particles of neutral buoyancy and dyes indicated that the basic current systems differed in the offshore zone for the two cases. Arguments are presented to show that no theoretical equilibrium beach profile exists for the case of a beach exposed to locally generated wind waves. (Author).
