Download or read book Wave Shoaling written by Bernard LeMéhauté and published by . This book was released on 1964 with total page 126 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The concepts of energy flux and group velocity for nonlinear periodic gravity waves are discussed. The average energy flux, average energy per wavelength and 'group velocity' are calculated for irrotational periodic gravity waves at a third order of approximation. Then the principle of conservation of transmitted energy between wave orthogonals is applied to the same order of approximation for determining the variation of wave height in decreasing depth. The results are presented as nomographs. It is seen that the 'shoaling coefficient' needs to be expressed at least at a third order of approximation to account for experimental results. The second part of the report is the summary of a literature survey which has been carried out on the problem of littoral processes. It is now possible to make further refinements to the material presented in progress report SN 134-1 on waves arriving at an angle with the shoreline. Also the way is paved for applying the theoretical results, already obtained in SN 134, to the problem of littoral processes.

Download or read book Treatise on Estuarine and Coastal Science written by and published by Academic Press. This book was released on 2012-03-06 with total page 4604 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The study of estuaries and coasts has seen enormous growth in recent years, since changes in these areas have a large effect on the food chain, as well as on the physics and chemistry of the ocean. As the coasts and river banks around the world become more densely populated, the pressure on these ecosystems intensifies, putting a new focus on environmental, socio-economic and policy issues. Written by a team of international expert scientists, under the guidance of Chief Editors Eric Wolanski and Donald McClusky, the Treatise on Estuarine and Coastal Science, Ten Volume Set examines topics in depth, and aims to provide a comprehensive scientific resource for all professionals and students in the area of estuarine and coastal science Most up-to-date reference for system-based coastal and estuarine science and management, from the inland watershed to the ocean shelf Chief editors have assembled a world-class team of volume editors and contributing authors Approach focuses on the physical, biological, chemistry, ecosystem, human, ecological and economics processes, to show how to best use multidisciplinary science to ensure earth's sustainability Provides a comprehensive scientific resource for all professionals and students in the area of estuarine and coastal science Features up-to-date chapters covering a full range of topics

Download or read book Shoaling and Breaking Characteristics of the Solitary Wave written by Arthur T. Ippen and published by . This book was released on 1955 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book A Numerical Model for Shoaling and Refraction of Third order Stokes Waves Over an Irregular Bottom written by Mary A. Cialone and published by . This book was released on 1987 with total page 206 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This numerical model solves for water wave height, angle, and number directly on a rectangular grid. Required input are the deepwater wave height, period, and direction and the bathymetry in the region of interest. The model employs a finite difference scheme. The irrotationality equation of the wave number vector is solved for the wave angle, and the conservation of energy flux equation is solved for the wave height. Iteration is required. A closed form expresssion, to third-order, for the time-averaged, vertically integrated energy flux is derived. Stokes' second definition of wave celerity is used in the derivation to reduce the number of intermediate calculations. Expressions for the wave energy and the group velocity are also derived. The model is written such that both first-order (linear) and third-order stokes wave theory model computations may be conducted. The modeling process begins at higher intermediate depth, or deep water, and waves are propagated shoreward until an Urseell number of 25 or another, user-specified, value is reached. The model is applied for the following cases: (a) comparison of small amplitude and finite amplitude wave refraction and shoaling on a plane beach, (b) refraction and shoaling over an irregular bottom configuration, and (c) comparison of the model shoaling predictions to laboratory data of Iverson (1951).

Download or read book Sand Transport by Shoaling Waves written by David Olney Cook and published by . This book was released on 1969 with total page 324 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book NBS Special Publication written by and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 1562 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Calculation of Wave Shoaling with Dissipation Over Nearshore Sands written by Robert J. Hallermeier and published by . This book was released on 1983 with total page 34 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Hydraulic Research in the United States and Canada written by United States. National Bureau of Standards and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 342 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Mechanics of Wave Seabed Structure Interactions written by Dong-Sheng Jeng and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2018-04-26 with total page 371 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An in-depth look at the mechanics of combined stresses imposed on the seabed from wave action and marine infrastructure.

Download or read book A Numerical Model for Shoaling and Refraction of Second order Cnoidal Waves Over an Irregular Bottom written by Thomas A. Hardy and published by . This book was released on 1987 with total page 206 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Marine Concrete Structures written by Mark Alexander and published by Woodhead Publishing. This book was released on 2016-09-13 with total page 506 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Marine Concrete Structures: Design, Durability and Performance comprehensively examines structures located in, under, or in close proximity to the sea. A major emphasis of the book is on the long-term performance of marine concrete structures that not only represent major infrastructure investment and provision, but are also required to operate with minimal maintenance. Chapters review the design, specification, construction, and operation of marine concrete structures, and examine their performance and durability in the marine environment. A number of case studies of significant marine concrete structures from around the world are included which help to reinforce the principles outlined in earlier chapters and provide useful background to these types of structures. The result is a thorough and up-to-date reference source that engineers, researchers, and postgraduate students in this field will find invaluable. Covers, in detail, the design, specification, construction, and operation of marine concrete structures Examines the properties and performance of concrete in the marine environment Provides case studies on significant marine concrete structures and durability-based design from around the world

Download or read book The Wave Height Variation for Regular Waves in Shoaling Water written by I. A. Svendsen and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 24 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Numerical Simulation of Water Waves written by Jianhua Tao and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on 2020-03-30 with total page 482 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book discusses the numerical simulation of water waves, which combines mathematical theories and modern techniques of numerical simulation to solve the problems associated with waves in coastal, ocean, and environmental engineering. Bridging the gap between practical mathematics and engineering, the book describes wave mechanics, establishment of mathematical wave models, modern numerical simulation techniques, and applications of numerical models in engineering. It also explores environmental issues related to water waves in coastal regions, such as pollutant and sediment transport, and introduces numerical wave flumes and wave basins. The material is self-contained, with numerous illustrations and tables, and most of the mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text. The book is intended for researchers, graduate students and engineers in the fields of hydraulic, coastal, ocean and environmental engineering with a background in fluid mechanics and numerical simulation methods.

Download or read book Beaches written by J. Hardisty and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 1990-12-31 with total page 360 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book places research into worldwide beach environments in its geomorphological context. Having introduced the systems approach to environmental modelling, and identified the groups of processes operating on beaches, the text is structured in five parts: the first three sections provide a sequential account of the effects of these processes on the beach system; part four focuses on theory relevant to landform stability, then reviews existing empirical, analytical and numerical models; and the final section introduces a computer model and shows its application to the process functions developed earlier.

Download or read book Laboratory Study of Wave Transformation in Shoaling Water Including an Analysis of Channel Boundary Friction written by H. W. Iversen and published by . This book was released on 1952 with total page 28 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments written by M. Schwartz and published by . This book was released on 1982 with total page 968 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book should be of interest to geologists; biologists; environmentalists; ecologists; engineers; lecturers and students in related subjects; libraries.

Download or read book Wave Transformation Over a Submerged Shoal written by Arun K. Chawla and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 522 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: