Download or read book Wave Groups in Shallow Water written by and published by . This book was released on 1999 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: One of the primary results of this study is that wave group statistics observed in the ocean at depths greater than 10 m for a large range of wave conditions are consistent with linear theory. Wave group prediction models that do not include the effect of correlations between waves separated by several intervening waves underpredict the number of sequential large waves. On the other hand, a model that includes correlations of waves separated by as many as six intervening waves predicts accurately the observed wave group statistics. Another result is that although computationally convenient, wave group prediction models based on power spectral shape alone are not as accurate as models based on direct simulations of the wave field. In shallower water where nonlinearities in the wave field can be important, linear theory based models underpredict the lengths of groups of large waves, but nonlinear simulations that use information from the power spectrum and bispectrum of the time series of sea-surface elevation are more accurate. The simulations suggest nonlinearities result in longer groups of high waves than occur in a Gaussian (eg, linear) sea.
Download or read book Extreme Ocean Waves written by Efim Pelinovsky and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2008-06-27 with total page 200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Extreme, freak or rogue waves are produced by a number of physical mechanisms that focus the water-wave energy into a small area, due to wave instability, chaotic behaviour, dispersion (frequency modulation), refraction (presence of variable currents or bottom topography), soliton interactions, etc. During the past thirty years a number of physical models of the rogue wave phenomenon have been intensively developed. Numerous experimental, statistical and theoretical investigations are intended to understand the physics of the huge wave formation, its relation to the environmental conditions and to provide a freak wave design for engineering purposes. The book details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of freak waves due to modulation instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of rogue wave generation in deep water and in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between observations and freak wave theories. The book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Download or read book Water Wave Mechanics For Engineers And Scientists written by Robert G Dean and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 1991-01-23 with total page 369 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.
Download or read book Waves Tides and Shallow Water Processes written by Open Open University and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2013-10-22 with total page 192 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The text begins by describing waves, their measurement and characteristics, their behaviour in shallow water, and unusual waves. Next, mainly theoretical aspects are considered of sediment movement and deposition by currents, before discussing wave action in the littoral zone, tidal current action on tidal flat and in estuaries, and the interaction of waves, tides, and river flow in deltas. Finally, we examine shelf-sea processes, including an outline of their mineral resources.
Download or read book Encyclopedia of Coastal Science written by Charles W. Finkl and published by Springer. This book was released on 2019-06-25 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This thoroughly revised and expanded edition of the much acclaimed Encyclopedia of Coastal Science edited by M. Schwarz (Springer 2005), presents an interdisciplinary approach that includes biology, ecology, engineering, geology, geomorphology, oceanography, remote sensing, technological advances, and anthropogenic impacts on coasts. Within its covers the Encyclopedia of Coastal Science, 2nd ed. brings together and coordinates many aspects of coastal and related sciences that are widely dispersed in the scientific literature. The broadly interdisciplinary subject matter of this volume features contributions by over 280 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and provides an abundance of figures in full-color with line drawings and photographs, and other illustrations such as satellite images. Not only does this volume offer a large number of new and revised entries, it also includes an illustrated glossary of coastal geomorphology, extensive bibliographic citations, and cross-references. It provides a comprehensive reference work for students, scientific and technical professionals as well as administrators, managers, and informed lay readers. Reviews from the first edition: Awarded for Excellence in Scholarly and Professional Publishing: “Honorable Mention”, in the category Single Volume/Science from the Association of American Publishers (AAP) 2005. "The contents and approach are interdisciplinary and, under a single cover, one finds subjects normally scattered throughout scientific literature." "The topics cover a broad spectrum, so does the geographic range of the contributors. ... besides geomorphologists, biologists, ecologists, engineers, geographers, geologists, oceanographers and technologists will find information related to their respective fields ... . Inclusion of appendices ... is very useful. The illustrated glossary of geomorphology will prove very useful for many of us ... ." Roger H. Charlier, Journal of Coastal Research, Volume 21, Issue 4, Page 866, July 2005. "It is an excellent work that should be included in any carefully selected list of best science reference books of the year "Summing Up: Highly recommended. " M.L. Larsgaard, Choice, Volume 43, Issue 6, Page 989, February 2006. "This volume is a comprehensive collection of articles covering all aspects of the subject: social and economic, engineering, coastal processes, habitats, erosion, geological features, research and observation." ... "As with similar works reviewed, I chose to read articles on familiar topics to see if they covered the expected, and some on unfamiliar topics to see if they could be readily understood. The book passed both tests, but the style is denser and more fact-filled than most of the encyclopedias I have reviewed." John Goodier, Reference Reviews, Volume 20, Issue 2, pages 35-36, 2006
Download or read book Handbook of Ocean Wave Energy written by Arthur Pecher and published by Springer. This book was released on 2016-12-07 with total page 305 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is open access under a CC BY-NC 2.5 license. This book offers a concise, practice-oriented reference-guide to the field of ocean wave energy. The ten chapters highlight the key rules of thumb, address all the main technical engineering aspects and describe in detail all the key aspects to be considered in the techno-economic assessment of wave energy converters. Written in an easy-to-understand style, the book answers questions relevant to readers of different backgrounds, from developers, private and public investors, to students and researchers. It is thereby a valuable resource for both newcomers and experienced practitioners in the wave energy sector.
Download or read book Water Waves written by Norman Frederick Barber and published by Crane Russak, Incorporated. This book was released on 1969 with total page 164 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For senior high school and university students.
Download or read book Twenty Second Symposium on Naval Hydrodynamics written by National Research Council and published by National Academies Press. This book was released on 2000-03-02 with total page 1039 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Twenty-Second Symposium on Naval Hydrodynamics was held in Washington, D.C., from August 9-14, 1998. It coincided with the 100th anniversary of the David Taylor Model Basin. This international symposium was organized jointly by the Office of Naval Research (Mechanics and Energy Conversion S&T Division), the National Research Council (Naval Studies Board), and the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division (David Taylor Model Basin). This biennial symposium promotes the technical exchange of naval research developments of common interest to all the countries of the world. The forum encourages both formal and informal discussion of the presented papers, and the occasion provides an opportunity for direct communication between international peers.
Download or read book Water Wave Kinematics written by A. Tørum and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 751 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.
Download or read book Ocean Swell Wave Groups from Wave Record Analysis written by Raymond C. Smith and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 96 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind written by Peter Janssen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-10-28 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Download or read book Waves Tides and Shallow Water Processes written by Open University. Oceanography Course Team and published by Gulf Professional Publishing. This book was released on 1999 with total page 230 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "The book begins by describing the characteristics of waves and tides, and their behaviour in shallow water. After outlining the sources of sediment supply to the oceans, some theoretical aspects of sediment movement and deposition by currents are considered. After looking at wave action in the littoral zone, the interplay of tidal currents, river flow and wave action in estuaries and deltas are explored. The final chapter provides an overview of shelf processes."--Amazon.com viewed June 30, 2022.
Download or read book The Design Wave in Shallow Water written by Robert L. Wiegel and published by . This book was released on 1955 with total page 54 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wave Mechanics and Wave Loads on Marine Structures written by Paolo Boccotti and published by Butterworth-Heinemann. This book was released on 2014-09-25 with total page 349 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave Mechanics and Wave Loads on Marine Structures provides a new perspective on the calculation of wave forces on ocean structures, unifying the deterministic and probabilistic approaches to wave theory and combining the methods used in field and experimental measurement.Presenting his quasi-determinism (QD) theory and approach of using small-scale field experiments (SSFEs), author Paolo Boccotti simplifies the findings and techniques honed in his ground-breaking work to provide engineers and researchers with practical new methods of analysis. Including numerous worked examples and case studies, Wave Mechanics and Wave Loads on Marine Structures also discusses and provides useful FORTRAN programs, including a subroutine for calculating particle velocity and acceleration in wave groups, and programs for calculating wave loads on several kinds of structures. Solves the conceptual separation of deterministic and stochastic approaches to wave theory seen in other resources through the application of quasi-determinism (QD) theory Combines the distinct experimental activities of field measurements and wave tank experiment using small-scale field experiments (SSFEs) Simplifies and applies the ground-breaking work and techniques of this leading expert in wave theory and marine construction
Download or read book Nonlinear Wave Group Evolution in Shallow Water written by and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 21 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Rogue Waves in the Ocean written by Christian Kharif and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2008-12-11 with total page 222 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “It came from nowhere, snapping giant ships in two. No one believed the survivors . . . until now” —New Scientist magazine cover, June 30, 2001 Rogue waves are the focus of this book. They are among the waves naturally - served by people on the sea surface that represent an inseparable feature of the Ocean. Rogue waves appear from nowhere, cause danger, and disappear at once. They may occur on the surface of a relatively calm sea and not reach very high amplitudes, but still be fatal for ships and crew due to their unexpectedness and abnormal features. Seamen are known to be unsurpassed authors of exciting and horrifying stories about the sea and sea waves. This could explain why, despite the increasing number of documented cases, that sailors’ observations of “walls of - ter” have been considered ctitious for a while. These stories are now addressed again due to the amount of doubtless evidence of the existence of the phenomenon, but still without suf cient information to - able interested researchers and engineers to completely understand it. The billows appear suddenly, exceeding the surrounding waves by two times their size and more, and obtaining many names: abnormal, exceptional, extreme, giant, huge, s- den, episodic, freak, monster, rogue, vicious, killer, mad- or rabid-dog waves, cape rollers, holes in the sea, walls of water, three sisters, etc.
Download or read book Practical Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics written by Willard J. Pierson and published by . This book was released on 1958 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
