Download or read book Under the Wave at Waimea written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2021 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.
Download or read book Clark Little written by Clark Little and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2022-04-05 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.
Download or read book No Bad Waves written by and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2013-10-06 with total page 317 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Mickey Muñoz has been called the “surfer’s surfer,” and is loved and respected among the cognoscenti for his contributions to surfing and the surfing life for the past 60 years as a surfer, a pioneer of Waimea Bay, a stuntman (stand-in for Gidget), a board shaper and designer, and as a sailor and boatbuilder (America’s Cup). Mentored by the Malibu greats of the ’40s, and an influence on generations of surfers since, Mickey weaves the story of a California waterman using his own life and that of his friends.
Download or read book Da Bull written by Greg Noll and published by North Atlantic Books. This book was released on 1989 with total page 228 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Pioneer big-wave surfer, Greg Noll, was called Da Bull by his fellow surfers for his stubborn, straightforward and aggressive approach to the sport. His approach to life in general wasn't much different. His life revolved around surfing and everything the sport engendered. He made surfboards and surf films. He pioneered modern surfing in Australia. He discovered Mazatlan as a surf spot. He as the first to ride the fear-some waves at Waimea Bay and Outside Pipeline on Oahu's North Shore. He brawled and caroused with men, charmed and entertained women. Above all, he was Da Bull, one of the bravest and best of the big wave riders of his or anyone's era."--Amazon.com
Download or read book Stealing the Wave written by Andy Martin and published by Bloomsbury Publishing USA. This book was released on 2008-12-01 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 'A classic tale of sporting rivalry' Observer 'The tales are gripping ... surfing emerges as a dangerous, solitary and potential fatal obsession' Telegraph 'A fascinating glimpse into obsession' Independent A gripping true story of a tragic and bitter rivalry in the world of surfing Winter. Mid-eighties. Hawai'i. Two surfers are battling for supremacy at Waimea Bay, home to the biggest waves in the world. Old-school, and some say too old, Ken Bradshaw commands respect with his fearlessness and fearsome temper. Mark Foo is the new kid on the block. Icon of the younger generation, this photogenic Chinese-American wows the crowds with his lightning repertoire of cool moves. One perfect day at Sunset Beach, Foo audaciously steals a wave from under Bradshaw's nose, sparking a bitter feud that is to last for over ten years and end in tragedy.
Download or read book The Lower River written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2012 with total page 361 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A taut, tense, darkly suspenseful novel about a man who flees to Africa after his marriage falls apart, only to be caught up in a precarious situation in a seemingly benign village.
Download or read book Eddie Would Go written by Stuart Holmes Coleman and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 2004-02-07 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule'a. Eddie Would Go is the compelling story of Eddie Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii. "Splendid...clear and fascinating."--Greg Ambrose, San Francisco Chronicle "Enlightening...an impressive history...of surfing...of Hawaiian culture both at home and across the world."--Matt Walker, Surfing Magazine "Eddie Aikau's life is a story waiting to be told, and it could not have been told any better than in Stuart Coleman's Eddie Would Go. This is a bestseller in the same way as the The Perfect Storm."--Peter Cole, Big-Wave Surfing Pioneer "It's amazing the impact Eddie had on the surfing world and Hawaii. It touches the community at a real grass-roots level."--Kelly Slater, World Champion Surfer "A meaningful biography of a surfing hero...extraordinary." -Terry Rogers, The San Diego Union-Tribune "Coleman, a surfer himself, does an admirable job of de-mystifying this remarkable man." -Terry Tomalin, The St. Petersburg Times "Fantastic...a treat to read."-Mark Cunningham, Honolulu Weekly
Download or read book Hotel Honolulu written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2002-05-15 with total page 473 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A writer turned Hawaiian hotel manager observes the many lives that pass through his rooms in this novel by the author of The Great Railway Bazaar. A New York Times Notable Book In this wickedly satiric romp, a down-on-his-luck writer finds escape from his life as the manager of a low-rent hotel a few blocks from the beach in Waikiki. His boss is quick to explain that the Hotel Honolulu is a multistory establishment—and the writer soon discovers just how many stories are contained in its walls. Honeymooners, vacationers, wanderers, mythomaniacs, soldiers, and families all check in. Like the Canterbury pilgrims, every guest has come in search of something, whether it’s sun, love, happiness, or objects of unnameable longing. And every guest—not to mention the staff, the owner, and the author himself—has a story. By turns hilarious, ribald, tender, and tragic, Hotel Honolulu offers a unique glimpse into the psychological landscape of an American paradise. “A sun-soaked Decameron.”—Chicago Sun-Times
Download or read book Blinding Light written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2006-06 with total page 451 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Explores creative genius and fame through the life of a writer whose search for a muse has led him into dangerous and destructive places.
Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.
Download or read book My Other Life written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 1997-09 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A fictionalized autobiography of a travel writer. There are descriptions of his experiences as a teacher of English in an African village, his meeting with the writer, Anthony Burgess, and his encounter with Queen Elizabeth of England.
Download or read book The Great Railway Bazaar written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2006-06-01 with total page 406 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The acclaimed author recounts his epic journey across Europe and Asia in this international bestselling classic of travel literature: “Compulsive reading” (Graham Greene). In 1973, Paul Theroux embarked on a four-month journey by train from the United Kingdom through Europe, the Middle East, and Southeast Asia. In The Great Railway Bazaar, he records in vivid detail and penetrating insight the many fascinating incidents, adventures, and encounters of his grand, intercontinental tour. Asia's fabled trains—the Orient Express, the Khyber Pass Local, the Frontier Mail, the Golden Arrow to Kuala Lumpur, the Mandalay Express, the Trans-Siberian Express—are the stars of a journey that takes Theroux on a loop eastbound from London's Victoria Station to Tokyo Central, then back from Japan on the Trans-Siberian. Brimming with Theroux's signature humor and wry observations, this engrossing chronicle is essential reading for both the ardent adventurer and the armchair traveler.
Download or read book Deep in the Wave written by Bear Woznick and published by Hachette UK. This book was released on 2012-07-10 with total page 116 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For world-class surfer Bear Woznick, the ocean has always been the center of his universe. He's spent his entire life with it; riding its waves, learning from it, loving it. The ocean also nourishes the soul as Bear shows us on his surfboard. In DEEP IN THE WAVE, readers ride along with Woznick through the calmest of tides and most turbulent waves. Woznick's portrayal of the beauty and power of the ocean is truly inspiring and showcases the profound meaning surfing has had on his life. From the way a surfboard is painstakingly crafted, to the faith and patience that is required to ride a monster wave, Woznick weaves his relationship to surfing with his relationship to God, relating how the two are often one in the same. Instead of standing on the shore with our toes in the surf, Woznick takes us on the board--to the deep water--to watch and wait--and, if need be, to paddle hard to survive.
Download or read book Waldo written by Paul Theroux and published by . This book was released on 1993 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Een jongeman ervaart een aantal bizarre confrontaties met het leven.
Download or read book The Stranger At The Palazzo D oro And Other Stories written by Paul Theroux and published by HarperCollins. This book was released on 2012-06-22 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "This is my only story. Now that I am sixty I can tell it." He, the narrator, was a twenty-one-year-old art student traveling the world. She was a countess -- apparently cold, haughty, and inaccessible -- traveling with Haroun, her ambiguous companion. When the young man makes their acquaintance at a hotel in Sicily, he finds himself filled with unexpected lust and playing a part in something he doesn't quite understand. Filled with Theroux's typically effortless but devastating descriptions of people and places, The Stranger at the Palazzo d'Oro is a brilliant portrayal of aging and decay, a shocking tale of sensuality in a golden age. The thrill and risk of pursuit and desire mark the accompanying stories of the sexual awakening and rites of passage of a Boston boyhood, the ruin of a writer in Africa, and the bewitchment of a retiree in Hawaii. This is Paul Theroux at his most allusive and wise, writing with a deep understanding of the frailties of men and boys.
Download or read book The Mosquito Coast written by Paul Theroux and published by Penguin UK. This book was released on 2011-12-15 with total page 424 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Winner of the Stanford Dolman Lifetime Contribution to Travel Writing Award 2020 The Mosquito Coast - winner of the James Tait Black Memorial Prize - is a breathtaking novel about fanaticism and a futile search for utopia from bestseller Paul Theroux. Allie Fox is going to re-create the world. Abominating the cops, crooks, junkies and scavengers of modern America, he abandons civilisation and takes the family to live in the Honduran jungle. There his tortured, messianic genius keeps them alive, his hoarse tirades harrying them through a diseased and dirty Eden towards unimaginable darkness. 'Stunning. . . exciting, intelligent, meticulously realised, artful' Victoria Glendinning, Sunday Times 'An epic of paranoid obsession that swirls the reader headlong to deposit him on a black mudbank of horror' Christopher Wordsworth, Guardian 'Magnificently stimulating and exciting' Anthony Burgess American travel writer Paul Theroux is known for the rich descriptions of people and places that is often streaked with his distinctive sense of irony; his novels and collected short stories, My Other Life, The Collected Stories, My Secret History, The Lower River, The Stranger at the Palazzo d'Oro, A Dead Hand, Millroy the Magician, The Elephanta Suite, Saint Jack, The Consul's File, The Family Arsenal, and his works of non-fiction, including the iconic The Great Railway Bazaar are available from Penguin.
Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2010-09 with total page 498 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.
