Download or read book The Response of Wind Ripples to Long Surface Waves written by and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Further refinement of the rate of wave amplification by wind has resulted from laboratory measurements and numerical calculations. Calculations of the nonlinear interactions in the capillary-gravity range have been extended. We developed a new comfortable method for description of the nonlinear gravity waves interactions on deep water. A Boltzmann's collision term in the Hasselmann's equation was replaced by a nonlinear diffusive operator. The model equation has the same constants of motion as the exact equation and gives correct expressions for weak turbulent Kolmogorov spectra. A numerical simulation of the new model demostrates a pretty good coincidence with the results of solution of the Hasselmann equation. The new model can be efficiently used in the study of physical mechanisms of air-sea interaction. We studied numerically the weak turbulence of capillary waves on deep water. By a direct solution of the Euler equation in approximation of small angles we found that stationary spectra of capillary waves obey the Kolmogorov law KA(.19/4) which is exact solution of kinetic equation for waves. In situation when the turbulence is realized in finite-size tank there is completely new effect of "frozen" turbulence which could be realized at very low levels of the excitations of capillary waves. At "frozen" turbulence regime there is no energy flux from low wavenumbers of pumping toward high wavenumbers of damping.

Download or read book On the Response of Surface Waves to Accelerating the Wind Forcing written by E. Bauer and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 21 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book The Handy Physics Answer Book written by Paul W Zitzewitz and published by Visible Ink Press. This book was released on 2011-02-01 with total page 385 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Eschewing the usual mathematical explanations for physics phenomena, this approachable reference explains complicated scientific concepts in plain English that everyone can understand. Tackling the big issues such as gravity, magnetism, sound, and what really happens in the Large Hadron Collider, this engaging look at physics also spells out why cats always land on their feet, why people appear to have red eyes in photographs, and the real danger of looking at an eclipse. For everyone who ever wondered how a light bulb works or how squirrels avoid electrocution on the power lines, this handbook supplies answers on the physics of everyday life and examines the developments in the exploration of subatomic particles. In addition to the question-and-answer section, an addendum of facts about physicists explains what the Nobel prize is and who has won it, and tells the story of the scientist who was incarcerated for agreeing with Copernicus. Answers more than eight hundred questions about physics, ranging from everyday life applications to the latest explorations in the field.

Download or read book Wind Wave and Current Interactions written by Ana Beatriz de Fiegueiredo Melo Villas Bôas and published by . This book was released on 2020 with total page 120 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surface gravity waves play a major role in the exchange of momentum, heat, energy, and gases between the ocean and the atmosphere. Strong winds blowing over long fetches give rise to long-period waves, known as swell, that can propagate great distances from their source; hence, the surface wave field in a given region results from the combined response to both local and remote wind forcing. Surface winds off the California coast are marked by strong seasonality and regional scale variability associated with the coastal orography. As a consequence, a particular aspect of the surface wave variability in this region is the influence of these regional-scale high wind events that occur during spring and summer. These alongshore "expansion fan" winds have average speeds of ∼10 m/s and are the dominant forcing for waves off central/northern California, leading to relatively short period waves (8-10 s) that come predominantly from the north-northwest. Waves are also modulated by ocean currents via wave-current interactions, which lead to variations in their direction, frequency, and amplitude. The surface current field in the California Current system (CCS) region is mostly dominated by balanced (rotational) motions in late winter/spring, while divergence is stronger in late summer/fall. Here, we propose a theoretical framework based on ray theory to assess the effects of current divergence and vorticity in the diffusion of wave action density. We show that the potential (divergent) component of the flow has no contribution to the diffusion of wave action. In a separate study, we analyze a large ensemble of numerical experiments using the wave model WAVEWATCH III forced with idealized currents to investigate the role of divergent and rotational flows in modifying wave properties, including direction, period, directional spreading, and significant wave height (Hs). Finally, the results obtained using idealized currents are used to interpret the response of surface waves to realistic currents by running an additional set of simulations using the llc4320 MITgcm output in the CCS region.

Download or read book Surface Waves at Short Fetches and Low Wind Speeds written by Blair Kinsman and published by . This book was released on 1960 with total page 200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Response of Gravity Water Waves to Wind Excitation written by James B. Bole and published by . This book was released on 1967 with total page 200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The primary purpose of this work was to study the response of gravity water waves to wind excitation, and in particular the applicability of the Miles inviscid shear-flow theory of gravity wave growth, by conducting experiments in a laboratory wind-wave channel under conditions approximating the assumptions of the mathematical model. The secondary objective was to document features of the coupled wave-response/wind-excitation system for comparison with the assumptions of Miles' theory. Mechanically generated wave profiles were measured with capacitance wire sensors and wave energy was calculated at seven stations spaced at 10-ft intervals along the channel test section. Waves varied in length from about 2.5 to 6.5 ft and maximum wind speeds ranged from 12 to 44 fps. Two sources of evidence indicate that without some modification the Miles inviscid theory may be inapplicable to gravity wave growth on a sufficiently rough water surface. First, the measured growth rates were significantly larger than theory predicts. Second, the superposed ripple standard deviations were larger than the respective critical layer thicknesses. Measured energy growth is not inconsistent with the energy transfer expected from flow separation. (Author).

Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2013 with total page 690 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The book contains a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes, and possibly landslides and asteroids impacts. Basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. New topics include wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, and freak waves.

Download or read book Computational Science and Its Applications ICCSA 2014 written by Beniamino Murgante and published by Springer. This book was released on 2014-07-02 with total page 842 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The six-volume set LNCS 8579-8584 constitutes the refereed proceedings of the 14th International Conference on Computational Science and Its Applications, ICCSA 2014, held in Guimarães, Portugal, in June/July 2014. The 347 revised papers presented in 30 workshops and a special track were carefully reviewed and selected from 1167. The 289 papers presented in the workshops cover various areas in computational science ranging from computational science technologies to specific areas of computational science such as computational geometry and security.

Download or read book Aquatic Physiosphere Biosphere Dynamics and Modelling written by Aike Beckmann and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on 2021-02-10 with total page 582 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This encyclopedia is a reference for aquatic physical, biological and biogeochemical sciences, collecting and connecting a number of topics, concepts and facts about aquatic systems and their scientific investigation. The scope of the book comprises the aquatic physiosphere-biosphere transition zone, an entity that encompasses both inanimate matter and collectives (the physiosphere) as well as living organisms and collectives (the biosphere). This combined approach is meaningful because both realms are intimately linked and because available methods of investigation are often similar. Much can be gained from considering both spheres at and across their interface jointly, and while there is a strong focus on marine systems, most concepts presented are also applicable to freshwater systems. This presented snapshot of knowledge of the transition zone between the aquatic physiosphere and biosphere is taken from a very specific angle: the point of view of a modeler. Modeling is not only a state-of-the-art mode of scientific investigation, but also requires the explicit specification of all assumptions (helping to avoid fallacies), and offers the advantage of being quantitative and allows for theoretical "what if" scenarios. As in any reference work, equal emphasis is given to fundamental facts, the definition of terms and the explanation of concepts, in an attempt to establish a joint language for physicists, biologists and biogeochemists. Although originating from a modeler's approach to nature, the resulting suite of compatible concepts may also be useful beyond modeling purposes. Furthermore, the material is presented in a condensed, straightforward way. Hence, the length of each entry is limited to one (occasionally two) pages, thus offering a quick introductory overview. This excludes lengthy derivations and very specialized details. The book is geared towards researchers, teachers and advanced students in the field of aquatic (marine and limnic) sciences, in particular those interested or involved in interdisciplinary work.

Download or read book The Effect of Breaking Waves on a Coupled Model of Wind and Ocean Surface Waves written by Tobias Kukulka and published by . This book was released on 2006 with total page 183 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Understanding the role of breaking surface waves in air-sea exchange processes is integral to accurate weather and climate modeling. A coupled wind and ocean surface wave model is developed that includes the enhanced form drag of breaking waves. Breaking and non-breaking waves induce air-side fluxes of momentum and energy in a thin layer above the air-sea interface within the constant stress layer (the wave boundary layer). By conserving momentum and energy in the wave boundary layer and wave energy, we derive coupled nonlinear advance-delay differential equations, which govern four physical quantities critical to air-sea transfer processes: the vertical wind profiles of the speed and turbulent stress, the wave height spectrum, and the length distribution of breaking wave crests as a function of wave scale. Introduction of non-dimensional variables elucidates the parameters controlling the momentum fluxes into breaking and non-breaking waves. In order to understand better the coupled wind and wave system, analytic solutions are obtained for limiting cases with either wind input to only breaking or input to only non-breaking waves. To solve the full system of advance-delay differential equations, we developed a numerical method based on two nested iterations. Solutions indicate that the number of breaking waves strongly depends on the sea state. Furthermore, breaking waves may contribute significantly to the total air-sea momentum flux. The breaking wave contribution increases for younger, strongly forced wind waves. This new wind and wave model provides a powerful tool to gain insight into complex coupled wind-wave dynamics.

Download or read book The Handy Physics Answer Book written by Charles Liu and published by Visible Ink Press. This book was released on 2020-09-01 with total page 571 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An informative, accessible, easy-to-use guide to physics, covering the fundamental concepts and amazing discoveries that govern our universe! We don’t need a U.S. Supreme Court ruling to know that everyone is governed by the laws of physics, but what are they? How do they affect us? Why do they matter? What did Newton mean when he said, "For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction?" What is gravity? What is Bernoulli’s Principle? Einstein’s Theory of Relativity? How do space, time, matter, and energy all interact? How do scientific laws, theories, and hypotheses differ? Physics can often seem difficult or complex, but it's actually beautiful and fun—and it doesn't need to be hard to understand. Revised for the first time in a decade, the completely updated third edition of The Handy Physics Answer Book makes physics and its impact on us, the world, and the universe entertaining and easy to grasp. It disposes with the dense jargon and overly-complicated explanations often associated with physics, and instead it takes an accessible, conceptual approach—never dumbing down the amazing science, yet all written in everyday English. The Handy Physics Answer Book tackles big issues and concepts, like motion, magnetism, sound, and light, and lots of smaller topics too—like, why don’t birds or squirrels on power lines get electrocuted?—and makes them enlightening and enjoyable for anyone who picks up this informative book. For everyone who has ever wondered about the sources of energy production in the United States, or how different kinds of light bulbs shine, or why wearing dark-colored clothes is warmer than light-colored ones, or even what happens when you fall into a black hole, The Handy Physics Answer Book examines more than 1,000 of the most frequently asked, most interesting, and most unusual questions about physics, including ... How can I be moving even while I’m sitting still? If the Sun suddenly disappeared, what would happen to the Sun’s gravity? What is the energy efficiency of the human body? Why do golf balls have dimples? How can ice help keep plants warm? What kinds of beaches are best for surfing? What do 2G, 3G, 4G, and 5G wireless networks mean? Why shouldn’t metal objects be placed in microwave ovens? Why does my voice sound different on a recording? Can a light beam be frozen in time? Why are soap bubbles sometimes so colorful? Why does a charged balloon stick to a wall? Is Earth a giant magnet? What are gamma rays? What happens when antimatter strikes matter? What is quantum teleportation? Are artificial intelligence systems able to think on their own? What happens when two black holes collide? How will the universe end? Useful and informative, The Handy Physics Answer Book also includes a glossary of commonly used terms to cut through the jargon, a helpful bibliography, and an extensive index. Ideal for students, curious readers of all ages, and anyone reckoning with the essential questions about the universe. This handy resource is an informative primer for applications in everyday life as well as the most significant scientific theories and discoveries of our time. And, we promise, no whiteboard needed.

Download or read book Engineering News record written by and published by . This book was released on 1923 with total page 1342 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Answer Book written by and published by National Geographic Books. This book was released on 2009 with total page 452 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Covers everything from earth sciences to astronomy; from climate and habitats to human arts and cultures; from ancient history to cutting-edge technology; and descriptions, flags, and statistics of all the countries in the world.

Download or read book The Regeneration of Surface Waves by Wind in Interactions with Internal Gravity Waves written by Owen M. Phillips and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 68 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book On the generation of surface waves by wind written by Frank Engelund and published by . This book was released on 1968 with total page 24 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Applied Mechanics Reviews written by and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 520 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Download or read book Special Scientific Report written by and published by . This book was released on 1965 with total page 1100 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: