Download or read book The Breaking and Run up of Solitary Waves on Beaches written by Ashwini K. Otta and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page 32 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book The Runup of Long Waves written by Constantine Emmanuel Synolakis and published by . This book was released on 1987 with total page 276 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book An Investigation of the Deformation and Breaking of Solitary Waves written by Frederick E. Camfield and published by . This book was released on 1967 with total page 150 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: It is proposed that solitary waves can be used as the initial wave shape to simulate the shoaling, breaking and run-up of large, long waves on a beach. Experiments were conducted with solitary waves to determine criteria for wave growth, celerity, breaking height and run-up on various beach slopes. In addition, limited investigations were made of reflected bores, effects of variations in the bottom profile, and the effect of multiple slopes, i.e., one slope followed by a second, higher slope, on the breaking and run-up of solitary waves. Further considerations are given to the method of characteristics as a means of analyzing shoaling waves. A qualitative analysis is presented of the effect of vertical acceleration terms on the solution. A comparison is made with other analytical solutions for shoaling waves. The experimental results are tabulated and plotted comparisons of the experimental results and the various analytical methods for shoaling waves are presented. (Author).
Download or read book Experimental and Analytical Investigations of Solitary Waves on a Beach written by Nimish Pujara and published by . This book was released on 2015 with total page 416 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This thesis presents theoretical and experimental investigations of the flow on a beach, i.e., the swash, due to solitary waves with the objective of understanding the flow processes that govern complex coastal hydrodynamics. The bed shear stress is identified as an important quantity and consequently, a shear plate sensor is developed to make accurate measurements of the bed shear stress. Its size is designed to be small enough to give spatially local measurements and its bandwidth high enough to resolve time-varying forcing due to waves. Typically, shear plate sensors are restricted to zero pressure gradient flows because secondary forces on the edge of the shear plate caused by pressure gradients can introduce large errors. To address this issue, a theory is developed to analyze the pressure distribution at the edges of the shear plate and a new methodology is introduced for correcting for the pressure gradient force. Experimental results are presented that show that this methodology improves the accuracy of the sensor. The swash flow created by solitary waves beyond the stillwater shoreline on a plane, impermeable beach is studied. Measurements of the bed shear stress, flow velocities, water depths, bed pressure and shoreline motion are presented for a wide range of incident solitary waves that span different regimes of wave breaking. The flow evolution due to breaking solitary waves is found to be a gravity-driven flow that is scaled by the initial velocity of the shoreline, which, in turn, is shown to be predicted by measurements of wave height near the stillwater shoreline. Experimental results are presented that show how different wave breaking regimes influence the initial shoreline velocity, the swash flow evolution, the run-up and the time period of the swash. Time-histories of the bed shear stress are also presented, but a new normalization for the peak values of the bed shear stress using the initial shoreline velocity shows the crossshore variation of bed shear stress and the influence of different wave breaking regimes. The effects of bed friction are found to significantly alter the flow in the leading edge of the swash, near the moving shoreline. A theory is developed that considers the leading order dynamical balance in the swash tip, treating it in a bulk sense. Predictions of the shoreline motion from the theory compare very well to the measured shoreline motion. Experiments are also conducted to study the interaction between successive solitary waves incident on a beach. Two cases are examined: a strongly interacting case and a weakly interacting case. The parameters relevant to predicting the strength of interaction between the swash of successive solitary waves are given. Measurements of bed shear stress, bed pressure and velocity are also used to explain the complex boundary layer dynamics that occur in the interaction of the swash flows due to successive waves.
Download or read book Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport written by R. E. Meyer and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2013-09-24 with total page 471 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport documents the proceedings of an Advanced Seminar held in October, 1971, aiming to offer a coherent, interdisciplinary view of the state of physical research in coastal oceanography and the direction in which this subject is moving. The articles range from wave refraction to littoral erosion, and the authors from geologists to mathematicians. The book opens with a study on the characteristics of wave records in the coastal zone. This is followed by separate chapters on sediment transport in beaches; equations for water waves; small-amplitude normal oscillations of a liquid body; and wave behavior near caustics in models and in nature. Subsequent chapters deal with nonlinear wave interaction in a variety of physical phenomena including deep water waves; the study of longshore currents; sediment suspension by periodic waves; forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone; run-up on beaches; and the wave breaking process in shallow water.
Download or read book Long wave Runup Models written by Philip L. F. Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996 with total page 419 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Long wave Runup Models Proceedings Of The International Workshop written by Harry H Yeh and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1997-05-05 with total page 419 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Since September 1992, there has been an unprecedented number of major tsunami events. Chronologically, the ten sites were: Nicaragua, in September 1992; Flores, Indonesia, in December 1992; Okushiri, Japan, in July 1993; East Java, Indonesia, in June 1994; Shikotan, Russia, in October 1994; Mindoro, Philippines, in November 1994; Skagway, Alaska, in November 1994; East Timor, Indonesia, in May 1995; Irian Jaya, Indonesia, in February 1996; Chimbote, Peru, in February 1996. These tsunamis caused substantial damage and many casualties. Now is the time to review this extraordinary phenomenon so as to prepare for forthcoming tsunami events.The purpose of this book is to review and update our knowledge of long-wave runups and our recent experience in field surveys of tsunami runups. Comparisons of numerical, analytical, and physical prediction models are made using existing laboratory and field data. Also presented are state-of-the-art tsunami prediction models and detailed discussions on tsunami runup phenomena.
Download or read book Wave basin Study of Runup on Beaches from Simulated Underwater Explosions Near Shore written by D. B. Jones and published by . This book was released on 1968 with total page 68 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Laboratory data are presented for the runup on a uniform slope of the leading waves of an axially symmetric, dispersive train of surface gravity waves. The waves emanated from an impulsive disturbance, simulating an underwater explosion. A significant aspect of the test conditions was the limited dispersion of the wave train, resulting from the relatively short propagation distance and the relatively large area covered by the wave-generating disturbance. Two general classes of wave trains were studied, distinguished by an initial rise of the water surface (a crest at the front of the wave train) in one case and an initial fall (trough) in the other. In both cases, the first wave in the wave train produced the greatest runup. The dominance of the first wave was more marked in the larger disturbances (higher waves). The more important leading-crest case simulated an explosion of the shallow-water type. This type is expected from explosions of large but not unrealistic magnitude in relatively shallow coastal waters. On a 1:14 slope, the leading crest did not break and the ratio of runup to wave height was constant (3.3) for ratios of wave height to water depth at the toe of the slope (H/d sub o) varying from 0.003 to 0.073. On a 1:20 slope, the leading crest broke with H/d sub o greater than 0.035; the runup of nonbreaking leading crests was 5% to 25% less than on the 1:14 slope, and breaking decreased the runup still further. (Author).
Download or read book Numerical Simulation of Water Waves written by Jianhua Tao and published by Springer. This book was released on 2021-03-31 with total page 482 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book discusses the numerical simulation of water waves, which combines mathematical theories and modern techniques of numerical simulation to solve the problems associated with waves in coastal, ocean, and environmental engineering. Bridging the gap between practical mathematics and engineering, the book describes wave mechanics, establishment of mathematical wave models, modern numerical simulation techniques, and applications of numerical models in engineering. It also explores environmental issues related to water waves in coastal regions, such as pollutant and sediment transport, and introduces numerical wave flumes and wave basins. The material is self-contained, with numerous illustrations and tables, and most of the mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text. The book is intended for researchers, graduate students and engineers in the fields of hydraulic, coastal, ocean and environmental engineering with a background in fluid mechanics and numerical simulation methods.
Download or read book Experimental and numerical determination of the shoreline motion during the run up of tsunami waves on a plain beach written by Ulrike Drähne and published by GRIN Verlag. This book was released on 2014-09-16 with total page 90 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Master's Thesis from the year 2014 in the subject Geography / Earth Science - Oceanography, grade: 1.7, University of Hamburg (Institute of Oceanography Hamburg), course: Physical Oceanography, language: English, abstract: Within this master thesis the behaviour of long periodic waves during their run-up on a plain beach was investigated via physical and numerical modelling. In the experimental part, for seven leading depression, non-breaking sine waves with surf similarity parameters between 3.1 and 15.6 the wave velocity, wave height and run-up on a plain beach were determined. In addition, the motion of the initially still shoreline, i.e. run-up/ run-down process, run-up/ run-down velocity, wave acceleration, maximum run-up and maximum run-up velocity, was determined via two high-speed cameras. Comparison of the aforementioned characteristics with the theory revealed good agreement; deviations can mostly be attributed to experimental performance. For wave generation a new volume driven wave generator was used. Long waves are generated by a pair of high capacity pumps under control of a proportional-integral-derivative controller (PID-controller). While rotating clockwise or counterclockwise water is pumped into the propagation section or extracted from it. Thereby, waves of arbitrary length can be generated. Using the relatively new strategy of observing the shoreline motion via optical measurements gave a comparatively exact shoreline position during wave run-up. In contrast, determination of the shoreline position during run-down was less exact due to missing evidence indicating the distinct position of the shoreline. In general, the experimentally determined shoreline position agreed with the theoretical approach. The maximum run-up/ run-down occurred for waves with surf similarity parameters between 3 and 6 (interval in which transition from breaking to non-breaking occurs). The magnitude of the theoretical breaking point increased for decreasing wave non-linearity A/h. For surf similarity parameters greater equal of the theoretical breaking point and for increasing surf similarity parameters the normalized run-up and magnitude of normalized run-down decreased. The maximum run-up/ run-down was proportional to wave non-linearity, i.e. the normalized run-up and magnitude of normalized run-down decreased with increasing wave amplitude as predicted by theory. The agreement of experimental and theoretical maximum run-down/ run-up depended on tuning of the PID controller and the resulting actual curve. For longer waves suboptimal tuning of the PID controller resulted in riding waves.
Download or read book Selected Water Resources Abstracts written by and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 866 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Shallow Flows written by Gerhard H. Jirka and published by Taylor & Francis. This book was released on 2004-09-15 with total page 684 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This text presents the key findings of the International Symposium held in Delft in 2003, which explored the process of shallow flows. Shallow flows are found in lowland rivers, lakes, estuaries, bays, coastal areas and in density-stratified atmospheres, and may be observed in puddles, as in oceans. They impact on the life and work of a wide variety of readers, who are here provided with a clear overview of the subject. Shallow flows are intrinsically turbulent. On one hand, there are strongly three-dimensional, small-scale turbulent motions and on the other hand, large-scale quasi-two-dimensional turbulence. This book explains and examines these differences and their effects with sections on transport processes in shallow flows; shallow jets, wakes and mixing layers; stratified and rotating flows in ocean and atmosphere; river and channel flows; and numerical modelling and turbulence closure techniques. The reader is provided with the pick of current studies and a fresh approach to the subject, with expert examination of a fascinating and crucial phenomenon of our world's water systems.
Download or read book The Tsunami Threat written by Nils-Axel Morner and published by BoD – Books on Demand. This book was released on 2011-01-29 with total page 732 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Submarine earthquakes, submarine slides and impacts may set large water volumes in motion characterized by very long wavelengths and a very high speed of lateral displacement, when reaching shallower water the wave breaks in over land - often with disastrous effects. This natural phenomenon is known as a tsunami event. By December 26, 2004, an event in the Indian Ocean, this word suddenly became known to the public. The effects were indeed disastrous and 227,898 people were killed. Tsunami events are a natural part of the Earth's geophysical system. There have been numerous events in the past and they will continue to be a threat to humanity; even more so today, when the coastal zone is occupied by so much more human activity and many more people. Therefore, tsunamis pose a very serious threat to humanity. The only way for us to face this threat is by increased knowledge so that we can meet future events by efficient warning systems and aid organizations. This book offers extensive and new information on tsunamis; their origin, history, effects, monitoring, hazards assessment and proposed handling with respect to precaution. Only through knowledge do we know how to behave in a wise manner. This book should be a well of tsunami knowledge for a long time, we hope.
Download or read book Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering written by Philip L. F. Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1999 with total page 263 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.
Download or read book Physics of Tsunamis written by Boris W. Levin and published by Springer. This book was released on 2015-10-22 with total page 399 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This second edition reflects significant progress in tsunami research, monitoring and mitigation within the last decade. Primarily meant to summarize the state-of-the-art knowledge on physics of tsunamis, it describes up-to-date models of tsunamis generated by a submarine earthquake, landslide, volcanic eruption, meteorite impact, and moving atmospheric pressure inhomogeneities. Models of tsunami propagation and run-up are also discussed. The book investigates methods of tsunami monitoring including coastal mareographs, deep-water pressure gauges, GPS buoys, satellite altimetry, the study of ionospheric disturbances caused by tsunamis and the study of paleotsunamis. Non-linear phenomena in tsunami source and manifestations of water compressibility are discussed in the context of their contribution to the wave amplitude and energy. The practical method of calculating the initial elevation on a water surface at a seismotectonic tsunami source is expounded. Potential and eddy traces of a tsunamigenic earthquake in the ocean are examined in terms of their applicability to tsunami warning. The first edition of this book was published in 2009. Since then, a few catastrophic events occurred, including the 2011 Tohoku tsunami, which is well known all over the world. The book is intended for researchers, students and specialists in oceanography, geophysics, seismology, hydro-acoustics, geology, and geomorphology, including the engineering and insurance industries.
Download or read book Extreme Ocean Waves written by Efim Pelinovsky and published by Springer. This book was released on 2015-09-02 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Download or read book Tsunami Science Four Years After the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami written by Phil R. Cummins and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2009-04-20 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The tragedy of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami has led to a rapid expansion in science directed at understanding tsunami and mitigating their hazard. A remarkable cross-section of this research was presented in the session: Tsunami Generation and Hazard, at the International Union of Geodesy and Geophysics XXIV General Assembly in Perugia, held in July of 2007. Over one hundred presentations were made at this session, spanning topics ranging from paleotsunami research, to nonlinear shallow-water theory, to tsunami hazard and risk assessment. A selection of this work, along with other contributions from leading tsunami scientists, is published in detail in the 28 papers of this special issue of Pure and Applied Geophysics: Tsunami Science Four Years After the Indian Ocean Tsunami. Part I of this issue includes 14 papers covering the state-of-the-art in tsunami modelling and hazard assessment. Another 14 papers are published in Part II focusing on observations and data analysis.
