Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book Clark Little written by Clark Little and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2022-04-05 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.
Download or read book On a Wave written by Thad Ziolkowski and published by Open Road + Grove/Atlantic. This book was released on 2007-12-01 with total page 270 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this wry and exhilarating coming-of-age story, a prizewinning poet poignantly looks back at his adolescent surfing years. As a disenchanted, unemployed English professor, Thad Ziolkowski decides one day to sneak away from his temp job in Manhattan and catch a wave off a dingy Queens shoreline. In the meager cold waves, he contemplates how he could have possibly become a semidepressed, chain-smoking, aimless man when, for a few shining years of his boyhood, he was invincible. His lapsed love affair with the ocean begins amid the late-sixties counterculture in coastal Florida. After his parents’ divorce, nine-year-old Thad escapes from his difficult family—notably a new brooding and explosive stepfather—by heading for the thrilling, uncharted waters of the local beach. In the embrace of the surf, he is able to stay offshore for years, until his life is upended once again, this time by a double tragedy that deposits him at a crossroads between a life in the waves and a life on land. Lyrical and disarmingly funny, On a Wave is a glorious portrait of youth that reminds readers of Tobias Wolff’s This Boy’s Life and Frank Conroy’s Stop-Time. “A sharp, self-conscious portrait of the artist as a young grommet.” —The New Yorker
Download or read book Under the Wave at Waimea written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2021 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.
Download or read book Incredible Waves written by Chris Power and published by Orca Publications. This book was released on 2013-12-10 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Incredible Waves has just won Illustrated Book of the Year at The British Sports Book Awards! Beautiful, unique, kaleidoscopic, geometrically exquisite...perfect waves are some of Mother Nature's most alluring and mesmerizing creations. Incredible Waves is a stunning coffee-table book of photographs that capture the beauty and majesty of the world's most awesome waves. This breathtaking volume is a collection of the best recent work by 20 top surf photographers including Clark Little, Brian Bielmann, Chris Burkard, Russell Ord, DJ Struntz, Tungsten, Jeff Flindt, Ray Collins and Andrew Shield. Among the most spectacular shots are images of big-wave breaks such as Pipeline, Cloudbreak, The Right, Teahupoo and Jaws – waves which are as dangerous as they are enticing, for photographers as well as surfers.The stories behind the most dramatic shots are revealed in the accompanying text, along with essays and discussions about current trends in surf photography.Readers interested in improving their own photographic skills will benefit from the technique sections throughout the book which offer tips and advice for getting better shots. Everything from basic composition to underwater photography is covered, along with tips for getting the best from board-mounted miniature cameras such as the GoPro.The photos in Incredible Waves are guaranteed to thrill surfers, longboarders, kite surfers and bodyboarders alike...in fact everyone who loves looking at images of the ocean at its most spectacular.
Download or read book Zero Break written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2004 with total page 390 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An anthology of literary pieces and essays on surfing is complemented by classic and modern photographs and artwork and includes Mark Twain's nineteenth-century description in "Roughing It" and Susan Orlean's essay on girl surfers in Maui.
Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.
Download or read book Waves written by Steve Hawk and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2005-04-21 with total page 144 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Any ocean lover knows the transformative power of the ocean wave and its perfect confluence of energy, water, and light. Waves offers a mesmerizing collection of photography that explores the many faces of the singular ocean wave, whether it is the quiet rush of a crystalline wavelet over tropical sand or the deadly slam of storm surf against Oregon cliffs. Former editor of Surfer magazine, Steve Hawk has selected photographs from New Zealand to Newfoundland, from Fiji to the Aleutians, and paired them with insightful ruminations on the science and poetry of waves. With work from world-renowned photographers such as Art Brewer, Jeff Divine, Wayne Levin, and Joel Meyerowitz, Waves will captivate all those with a passion for the sea.
Download or read book Stealing the Wave written by Andy Martin and published by Bloomsbury Publishing USA. This book was released on 2008-12-01 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 'A classic tale of sporting rivalry' Observer 'The tales are gripping ... surfing emerges as a dangerous, solitary and potential fatal obsession' Telegraph 'A fascinating glimpse into obsession' Independent A gripping true story of a tragic and bitter rivalry in the world of surfing Winter. Mid-eighties. Hawai'i. Two surfers are battling for supremacy at Waimea Bay, home to the biggest waves in the world. Old-school, and some say too old, Ken Bradshaw commands respect with his fearlessness and fearsome temper. Mark Foo is the new kid on the block. Icon of the younger generation, this photogenic Chinese-American wows the crowds with his lightning repertoire of cool moves. One perfect day at Sunset Beach, Foo audaciously steals a wave from under Bradshaw's nose, sparking a bitter feud that is to last for over ten years and end in tragedy.
Download or read book Surfing South Africa written by Steve Pike and published by Juta and Company Ltd. This book was released on 2007 with total page 284 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A follow-up to the classic "Surfing in South Africa", this is a new book, completely revised and updated. Written by Spike (Steve Pike), founder of the cult surfing website Wavescape.co.za, it comprises chapters on history, big waves, spots, culture, travel, oceanography, sharks (including a timeline of shark attacks) and a hilarious 'Surfrican' slang glossary. The book is illustrated with 180 graphics, cartoons and photographs. You will find quirky descriptions of surf spots along almost 3,000 km of coast (watch out for the razor-toothed tortoise), a photo essay of surfing personalities by acclaimed photographer Harry de Zitter, as well as colourful journalism from top writers covering subjects connected to the surfing lifestyle. The full-colour book, which is 110 pages bigger than the previous book, is an indispensable resource. Images come from top South African photographers, such as Barry Tuck, Tom Peschak, Michael Dei-Cont, Andy Mason, Lance Slabbert, Brenton Geach, and Pierre Marqua. The contributors of words added spice to an eclectic mix of culture and science. An original piece by Paul Botha forms the backbone to a much-expanded history chapter. Tom Peschak adds gravitas to issues around sharks and conservation. The brave life of John Whitmore is poignantly remembered by Tony Heard. Ross Frylinck gives gritty insights into the forlorn splendour of the Diamond Coast. Tongue in cheek, Gideon Malherbe uncovers our surfing addiction. Henri du Plessis provides a profile of a committed exponent of that addiction. Tony Weaver eloquently tackles the challenge of sharing the sea with sharks. Ben Trovato romps through issues around surfing evolution and lifeguards in skimpy Speedos.
Download or read book Women Making Waves written by Lara Einzig and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2022-06-28 with total page 273 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A visually stunning journey across the world’s oceans, featuring soulful surfers living with purpose “The women in this book are my sea sisters and I believe that by sharing these remarkable stories, we inspire other women to make wiser and more empowered choices in their own lives.”—Kassia Meador, former pro-longboarder and founder of Kassia+Surf Women Making Waves is a celebration of the sisterhood of surfing, featuring extraordinary women from the United States, Philippines, Mexico, Australia, Senegal, Japan, France, and beyond. Author Lara Einzig profiles more than two dozen inspiring female surfers from around the globe—from activists to artists—who are breaking new ground on land and finding healing, joy, and community in the water. There is Maya Gabeira, a Brazilian woman who surfed the biggest wave of anyone in 2020; Bonnie Wright, the British actress, activist, and author; Risa Mara Machuca, who runs a free surfing camp in Mexico for local children; and Zara Noruzi, an Iranian exile who found peace on the water in Australia. Through candid interviews on the transformational power of surfing, and with immersive photography of beautiful beaches, surf shacks, and favorite breaks, Einzig captures the life-altering strength and resilience that these women discover in their connection to the waves. Women Making Waves captures the innate, spiritual essence of our connection to the ocean, inviting us all to paddle out.
Download or read book The Wave written by Susan Casey and published by Anchor Canada. This book was released on 2011-05-31 with total page 434 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.
Download or read book Surf Shacks Volume 2 written by gestalten and published by . This book was released on 2020-08-25 with total page 288 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing is a way of life, one that defines not only where we live, but how we live. Surf Shacks Volume 2 picks up where the first volume left off, exploring homes of surfers, which range from improvised cabins by the beach to penthouse apartments in big coastal cities. In this followup, we meet a fascinating cast of characters from the shores of southern California through to the wild waters of Sri Lanka, Japan and Australia.
Download or read book The Ninth Wave written by Eugene Burdick and published by eBookIt.com. This book was released on 2021-02-04 with total page 463 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Ninth Wave, published in 1956, follows a political campaign complete with then cutting-edge innovations of opinion polling, computers and the use of campaign consultants. Though we now know -- even in a world of Facebook and Obama -- that data and numbers can't quite predict and control political outcomes in the way the book lays out, the world has turned out close enough to Burdick's picture of the future to make The Ninth Wave a prescient and still relevant story, and one that should be loved by people who are into the mechanics of politics. (Mark Pack)
Download or read book Painting Surf and Sea written by Harry R. Ballinger and published by Courier Corporation. This book was released on 2013-01-16 with total page 114 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An award-winning artist and teacher shows how to recapture the beauty and majesty of the sea in this simply written yet authoritative book. Seasoned artists and beginners alike will appreciate its profusely illustrated guidelines, which offer not only step-by-step instructions on depicting seascapes, but also many tips on picture-making in general. Artist Harry R. Ballinger shares insights from his decades of experience with marine painting, clearly explaining the principles on which the sea and surf operate. He combines the basics of composition and color mixing with easy methods for painting surf, sea, skies, sandy beaches, waves, and rocky shores. He also offers invaluable suggestions for choosing everything from the right brush and paint to the appropriate practice subjects. Twelve color and 85 black-and-white illustrations enhance the text.
Download or read book Surfing Uncertainty written by Andy Clark and published by Oxford University Press, USA. This book was released on 2016 with total page 425 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Exciting new theories in neuroscience, psychology, and artificial intelligence are revealing minds like ours as predictive minds, forever trying to guess the incoming streams of sensory stimulation before they arrive. In this up-to-the-minute treatment, philosopher and cognitive scientist Andy Clark explores new ways of thinking about perception, action, and the embodied mind.
Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-09-06 with total page 274 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Wonderful . . . a moving autobiography, the story of a unique business, and a detailed blueprint for hope." —Jared Diamond, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Guns, Germs, and Steel In this 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.
