Download or read book Surf That Wave written by Christine Ricci and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2006-05-09 with total page 28 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Pablo describes his surfing, from paddling his surfboard to experiencing wipeout.
Download or read book Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2021-10-26 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.
Download or read book Surf written by Casey Koteen and published by Weldon Owen International. This book was released on 2013-10-29 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The editors of TransWorld SURF share inside information and jaw-dropping photography in this comprehensive guide to the one-hundred best surf spots on Earth. The editors of TransWorld SURF magazine have been all over—from Australia and California to emerging destinations in West Africa, Japan, Norway and beyond—searching for the best beaches and waves with some of the world’s top surfers. This book collects amazing photos of the one-hundred top spots around the world, along with the pro tips and travel details you need to go there yourself. SURF: 100 Greatest Waves takes you from classic locales, such as Mexico, Fiji, and Thailand, to inside secret spots like Iceland, India, and Wales. Whether you’re a globetrotting barrelhunter chasing the perfect wave, or a weekend wave-rider dreaming of the perfect vacation, let SURF: 100 Greatest Waves take you there.
Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.
Download or read book Surf Odyssey written by Andrew Groves and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2016 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Cold-water surfing, the most remote surf spots, spectacular photography, illustrations, and custom boards: Surf Odyssey documents the modern cult of surfing as its own subculture and way of life. There's much more to surfing than palm trees and beach boy cliches. People surf not only in Hawaii, but also in Norway, South Korea, and India. Surf Odyssey is a book about the world of surfing today and those that live in it. This community is made up of the surfers themselves as well as surf photographers and board builders who are also spreading its distinctive spirit into other creative fields. Comparable to the new outdoor movement, today's surfing is about an attitude toward life, a lust for adventure, and a love of nature that one can only find far away from established spots. Surf Odyssey presents this scene's places, people, stories, and brands. Its stunning photography is sure to inspire many further surfing exploits."
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book Mop Rides the Waves of Life written by Jaimal Yogis and published by Parallax Press. This book was released on 2020-06-30 with total page 40 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: If only life could be like surfing! Having "funny" hair and being embarrassed in school is hard, but when little surfer Mop studies the lessons of the waves—breathing, letting the bad waves go by, and riding the good ones—he learns how to bring the mindfulness and joy of surfing into his whole life. Celebrated San Francisco surfer-journalist-dad Jaimal Yogis teaches 4-8 year olds timeless beach wisdom with the story of Mop, a sensitive and fun-loving kid who just wants to be in the ocean. Going to school and navigating classmates can be hard—but all that goes away when little surfer Mop paddles out in the waves. With a few tips from his clever mom, Mop studies the wisdom of the water and learns to bring it into his life on land: taking deep breaths, letting the tough waves pass, and riding the good ones all the way. With newfound awareness and courage, Mop heads back to land—and school—to surf the waves of life. With stylish full-color beachy illustrations from cover to cover.
Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 352 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Download or read book Surf Science written by Tony Butt and published by University of Western Australia Press. This book was released on 2014 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don't, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
Download or read book Swell written by Evan Slater and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2012-05-09 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.
Download or read book Sarah and the Big Wave written by Bonnie Tsui and published by Henry Holt and Company (BYR). This book was released on 2021-05-11 with total page 19 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This stunning nonfiction picture book tells the inspiring story of Sarah Gerhardt, one of the first female big-wave surfers. Have you ever seen a big wave? One that’s twenty, thirty, forty, even fifty feet tall? Here’s a better question: Would you ever surf a big wave? Sarah Gerhardt did—and this is her story. Sarah and the Big Wave, a tale of perseverance and indomitable spirit, is about the first woman to ride the waves at Mavericks, one of the biggest and most dangerous surf breaks in the world.
Download or read book Surfing Illustrated written by John Robison and published by McGraw Hill Professional. This book was released on 2010-04-16 with total page 176 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Expert instruction you need to take your skills from kook to boss Author John Robison uses hundreds of pictures-- comical, cartoon-like drawings--to clearly illustrate every aspect of surfing: wave dynamics, riding techniques, etiquette, logistics, and more. This entertaining, easy-to-understand visual presentation makes it easy for you to pick up his techniques and use them on the waves. Robison covers every aspect of the sport, from paddling out through the surf zone and catching and riding that first wave to nose riding, acrobatics, shortboard riding, and to equipment repairs.
Download or read book Waves written by Thom Gilbert and published by Abrams. This book was released on 2019-09-24 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A vibrant celebration of surfers in and out of the water from an award-winning photographer Professional photographer Thom Gilbert spent four years among surfer royalty at the top of their game—in Spain, New York, California, and Hawaii—with his camera trained not only on tiny figures disappearing in the waves, but also on the surfers’ faces and bodies back on land. He returned from the beaches with intimate portraits of the world’s best—from the newest talent to the oldest and most revered—and also with dramatic action shots and revealing images of the culture around this sport and lifestyle. The book features not only 300 photographs, but some Q&As with, and hand-written contributions from, prominent figures in the scene. Ultimately, Waves is an ode to surfing and to the men and women who live it every day.
Download or read book The Big Drop written by John Long and published by Falcon Guides. This book was released on 1999 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A classic collection of big wave surfing stories that heralded a new era in surfing literature--32 tantalizing and terrifying true tales from the sport's pioneers
Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.
Download or read book The Wave written by Susan Casey and published by Anchor Canada. This book was released on 2011-05-31 with total page 434 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.
Download or read book Under the Wave at Waimea written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2021 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.
