Download or read book Shallow Water Surface Wave Elevation Distributions written by Edward F. Thompson and published by . This book was released on 1980 with total page 18 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996-02-12 with total page 509 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields.It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view.The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail.The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text.An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2013 with total page 690 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The book contains a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes, and possibly landslides and asteroids impacts. Basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. New topics include wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, and freak waves.
Download or read book Observed and Simulated Water Surface Waves in Shallow Waters written by Bingyu Yang and published by . This book was released on 2014 with total page 218 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Remote sensing technologies can provide instruments and techniques to obtain images of surface wave fields. In this research, water surface wave imagery was collected using high definition video cameras. Wave heights obtained from the imagery and spectral analysis was applied to wave height time series. An imaging technique using staff gauges was used to measure water surface elevations using a mono imaging method. The techniques developed can be used for calibration and validation of shallow water surface gravity wave models. The resulting wave spectrums extracted using Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) analysis was used in an existing Fortran 90 program developed to generate simulated water wave images. Simulated images were compared to sensor based images. The wave spectrum used in this research utilized a Weibull probability distribution model for simulation of wave heights and wave slope facets. Parameter sensitivity analysis was conducted to illustrate the effects of the Weibull distribution shape and scale parameters on the simulated water surface wave energy.
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2017-09-28 with total page 801 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
Download or read book The Distribution of Significant Wave Height in Shallow Water written by P. Challenor and published by . This book was released on 1985 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Ocean wave Record written by R. R. Putz and published by . This book was released on 1953 with total page 76 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book The Mechanics of Deep Water Shallow Water and Breaking Waves written by Jack R. Morison and published by . This book was released on 1953 with total page 42 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow Water written by Charles E. Long and published by . This book was released on 1991 with total page 370 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Water Wave Kinematics written by A. Tørum and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 751 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.
Download or read book Use of Theoretical Wave Height Distributions in Directional Seas written by Charles E. Long and published by . This book was released on 1991 with total page 124 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Practical Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics written by Willard J Pierson and published by . This book was released on 1955 with total page 312 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Application of Short crested Wave Theory in the Design of Three Dimensional Coastal Hydrodynamic Models written by William Leo Wood and published by . This book was released on 1980 with total page 72 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In spring 1973 a series of field experiments was initiated to investigate the three dimensional structure of a coastal hydrodynamic system. These field investigations supported the concept that short-crested wave theory is applicable to modeling of incident wind-wave transformations from offshore to the outer surf zone. Application of short-crested wave theory to the design of coastal hydrodynamic models was also considered appropriate because of the theories inherent three dimensional structure. Concurrent with this work two field experiments were conducted in 1974 and 1976 to measure vertical and horizontal distribution of longshore current velocity and to monitor temporal variations in current velocity at a point. In fall 1978 a series of experimental laboratory investigations was initiated to make precise measurements, at close spatial intervals, of wave height decay after breaking. These experiments were carried out to determine a wave height decay expression based upon the assumption that an appropriate physical conceptualization of wave energy dissipation after breaking must consider turbulence dominant to bottom friction. This report presents a detailed summary of these investigations and their results. (Author).
Download or read book Energy Spectra in Shallow U S Coastal Waters written by Edward F. Thompson and published by . This book was released on 1980 with total page 160 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book A Practical Guide to Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis written by Marshall Delph Earle and published by . This book was released on 1984 with total page 88 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface written by O. M. Phillips and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 677 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1960, Dr. George Deacon ofthe National Institute ofOceanography in England organized a meeting in Easton, Maryland that summarized the state of our understanding at that time of ocean wave statistics and dynamics. It was a pivotal occasion: spectral techniques for wave measurement were beginning to be used, wave-wave interactions hadjust been discovered, and simple models for the growth of waves by wind were being developed. The meeting laid the foundation for much work that was to follow, but one could hardly have imagined the extent to which new techniques of measurement, particularly by remote sensing, new methods of calculation and computation, and new theoretical and laboratory results would, in the following twenty years, build on this base. When Gaspar Valenzuela of the V. S. Naval Research Laboratory perceived that the time was right for a second such meeting, it was natural that Sir George Deacon would be invited to serve as honorary chairman for the meeting, and the entire waves community was delighted at his acceptance. The present volume contains reviewed and edited papers given at this second meeting, held this time in Miami, Florida, May 13-20, 1981, with the generous support of the Office of Naval Research, the National Aeronautics and Space Administration, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction 2nd Edition written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2013-01-30 with total page 690 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.
