Download or read book Search for the Perfect Wave written by Kevin Naughton and published by . This book was released on 2015-11-11 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1973, young Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson took to the road with surfboards, camera gear and an untameable desire for adventure. For ten years they scoured the planet in search of perfect waves and the experiences only a traveler on the road encounters. "Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson are two surfers who defined surf travel in the early 1970's. They set off with a board each and rough maps, heading for the most remote possible places in West Africa and beyond, all for the quest of undiscovered surf spots. They felt the flow of travel, and they breathed in the air of the countries they visited, writing the odd mystical surf story for SURFER magazine, sending down the occasional alluring image of a wave breaking off a shipwreck, in front of a mile high sand dune, or at the bottom of a sheer cliff." Craig Jarvis, Tracks magazineThis series of books chronicles their journey. Featuring original photos and text from California, Mexico, El Salvador, Costa Rica, West Africa, Sahara Desert, Morocco, Ireland, France, Fiji, South Africa and beyond.
Download or read book Surf Mama written by Wilma Johnson and published by . This book was released on 2014-06-02 with total page 317 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wilma Johnson was living on the west coast of Ireland with her husband and three children, balancing the challenges of being an artist, wife and mother, until, in her forties and with a deep desire to seize the day, she moved to Biarritz and became a surfer.The waters of her new life are sometimes troubled and relationships aren't always steady; she splits with her husband, her children don't speak French and she lives with a growing menagerie. Her first attempts at surfing are disastrous: bruises, broken bones and a damaged ego the result, but when she sets up the Mamas Surf Club and experiences the euphoric feeling of catching her first wave, it's all worth it.
Download or read book The Perfect Wave written by Heinrich Ps and published by Harvard University Press. This book was released on 2014-02-25 with total page 308 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Almost weightless and able to pass through the densest materials with ease, neutrinos may offer answers to questions ranging from relativity and quantum mechanics to more radical theories about dark energy and supersymmetry. Heinrich Päs serves as our fluent guide to a particle world that tests the boundaries of space, time, and human knowledge.
Download or read book Riding the Magic Carpet written by Tom Anderson and published by Summersdale Publishers LTD. This book was released on 2006-06-01 with total page 283 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "The right-hand point at Jeffreys Bay is one of the surfing world's most exciting finds, and from the age of twelve it had been my life's purpose to surf there." J-Bay, South Africa, has the fantasy, the almost mythical waves every surfer dreams of riding once in their lifetime. But Tom wouldn't go until he was ready. He would seek out surf-spots from the virgin reef-breaks of the Outer Orkneys to the temple point-breaks of Indonesia, from the beautiful beaches of France to the wilds of Sri Lanka, on his quest to ride the waves of his dreams. Get on the road, get stoked, and get in the water.
Download or read book Search for the Perfect Wave written by Kevin Naughton and published by . This book was released on 2015-11-11 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1973, young Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson took to the road with surfboards, camera gear and an untameable desire for adventure. For ten years they scoured the planet in search of perfect waves and the experiences only a traveler on the road encounters. "Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson are two surfers who defined surf travel in the early 1970's. They set off with a board each and rough maps, heading for the most remote possible places in West Africa and beyond, all for the quest of undiscovered surf spots. They felt the flow of travel, and they breathed in the air of the countries they visited, writing the odd mystical surf story for SURFER magazine, sending down the occasional alluring image of a wave breaking off a shipwreck, in front of a mile high sand dune, or at the bottom of a sheer cliff." Craig Jarvis, Tracks magazineThis series of books chronicles their journey. Featuring original photos and text from California, Mexico, El Salvador, Costa Rica, West Africa, Sahara Desert, Morocco, Ireland, France, Fiji, South Africa and beyond.
Download or read book All for a Few Perfect Waves written by David Rensin and published by Harper Collins. This book was released on 2009-03-17 with total page 826 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.
Download or read book Surfing written by Peter Diel and published by Meyer & Meyer Verlag. This book was released on 2008 with total page 202 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A guide to surfing offers information on the origins of the sport, essential equipment, techniques, and the best surfing locations in the United States, Hawaii, Australia, and Europe.
Download or read book Endless Summer written by Logan Sekulow and published by . This book was released on 2016-06 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The movie, The Endless Summer is the ultimate surfing adventure, crossing the globe in search of the perfect wave. Teaching kids to "search for the perfect wave" in life and never be content with the common, should be every parent's goal.
Download or read book Kook written by Peter Heller and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2010-07-13 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book In Search of Captain Zero written by Allan Weisbecker and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2002-09-17 with total page 353 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1996, Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, and set off in search of his long-time surfing companion, Patrick, who had vanished into the depths of Central America. In this rollicking memoir of his quest from Mexico to Costa Rica to unravel the circumstances of Patrick's disappearance, Weisbecker intimately describes the people he befriended, the bandits he evaded, the waves he caught and lost en route to finding his friend. In Search of Captain Zero is, according to Outside magazine, "A subtly affecting tale of friendship and duty. [It] deserves a spot on the microbus dashboard as a hell of a cautionary tale about finding paradise and smoking it away." In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road is a Booksense 76 Top Ten selection for September/October.
Download or read book Perfect Wave written by Dave Hickey and published by University of Chicago Press. This book was released on 2017 with total page 214 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When Dave Hickey was twelve, he rode the surfer's dream: the perfect wave. And, like so many things in life we long for, it didn't quite turn out - he shot the pier and dashed himself against the rocks of Sunset Cliffs in Ocean Beach, which just about killed him. Fortunately, for Hickey and for us, he survived, and he continues to battle, decades into a career as one of America's foremost critical iconoclasts. He's a trusted, even cherished no-nonsense voice commenting on the all-too-often nonsensical worlds of art and culture. This book brings together essays on a wide range of subjects from throughout Hickey's career, displaying his usual breadth of interest and powerful insight into what makes art work, or not, and why we care. With Hickey as our guide, we travel to Disneyland and Vegas, London and Venice. We discover the genius of Karen Carpenter and Waylon Jennings, learn why Robert Mitchum matters more than Jimmy Stewart, and see how the stillness of Antonioni speaks to us today. Never slow to judge - or to surprise us in doing so - Hickey powerfully relates his wincing disappointment in the later career of his early hero Susan Sontag, and shows us the appeal to our commonality that we've been missing in Norman Rockwell. With each essay, the doing is as important as what's done; the pleasure of reading Dave Hickey lies nearly as much in spending time in his company as in being surprised to find yourself agreeing with his conclusions. -- Description from amazon.com.
Download or read book The World in the Curl written by Peter J. Westwick and published by Crown. This book was released on 2013-07-23 with total page 418 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Draws on decades of experience and the popular team-taught courses at the University of California at Santa Barbara to trace the cultural, political, economic and environmental aspects of surfing while evaluating the diverse range of influences that have rendered the sport a billion-dollar worldwide industry.
Download or read book Surf written by Casey Koteen and published by Weldon Owen International. This book was released on 2013-10-29 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The editors of TransWorld SURF share inside information and jaw-dropping photography in this comprehensive guide to the one-hundred best surf spots on Earth. The editors of TransWorld SURF magazine have been all over—from Australia and California to emerging destinations in West Africa, Japan, Norway and beyond—searching for the best beaches and waves with some of the world’s top surfers. This book collects amazing photos of the one-hundred top spots around the world, along with the pro tips and travel details you need to go there yourself. SURF: 100 Greatest Waves takes you from classic locales, such as Mexico, Fiji, and Thailand, to inside secret spots like Iceland, India, and Wales. Whether you’re a globetrotting barrelhunter chasing the perfect wave, or a weekend wave-rider dreaming of the perfect vacation, let SURF: 100 Greatest Waves take you there.
Download or read book 100 Best Surf Spots in the World written by Rod Sumpter and published by 100 Best Surf Spots in the Wor. This book was released on 2004 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 100 Best Surf Spots in the World will include top surfing destinations ranging from Sunset Beach and the Gold Coast in Queensland, Australia to Malibu, California and Oahu, Hawaii. Lesser-known destinations such as Metigama, Sri Lanka and Aviero, Northern Portugal take readers to every corner of the globe in search of the perfect wave. Other countries that make the list include: South Africa, France, England, Scotland, Ireland, Morocco, New Zealand, Japan, Indonesia, and Fiji. Each destination will include brilliant full-color photography of both the area and the breaks; location map, an introduction to the area, notes on the surf and why it ranked, a personal anecdote from the author while there, and a quick-reference chart including such items as skill level required, nerves needed, and surfable days.
Download or read book The Book of Surfing written by Michael Fordham and published by Harper Collins. This book was released on 2012-12-26 with total page 525 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Everything you need to know about waves Classic surf trips, from California to Cornwall Iconic surf movies and legendary image-makers Profiles of surfing greats, including Miki Dora, Nat Young, and Kelly Slater Practical advice—from becoming a greener surfer to travel essentials and how surfing conquered the world! It was the sport of Polynesian princes whose names have been lost to history. It is a lifestyle, an art, a sacred rite, a belief system—a unique way of being that deeply tunes the wave-rider into the planet's natural rhythms. It is a billion-dollar industry with millionaire superstars. It is ocean and adrenaline and magic. The Book of Surfing is a one-stop killer guide to the complete surfing universe for the long-time enthusiast and movie alike.
Download or read book Church of the Open Sky written by Nat Young and published by Random House Australia. This book was released on 2019-08-20 with total page 252 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: What makes for a surfing life? With a blaze of groundbreaking performances and a swag of titles claimed from all over the world to his name, Australian world champion surfer Nat Young might know. His seventieth birthday inspired some reflection on exactly that, and on the waves and characters that have marked his remarkable life – Miki Dora and Midget Farrelly to name a few. But surfing for Nat Young – and so many like-minded surfers – has never been about winning, never been about the sport. It’s a calling, an endless quest, a philosophy, a religion. Most of all, surfing is a way of life that has underpinned his other identities as board shaper, film producer, writer, raconteur, conservationist, activist, pilot, husband, father. Candid and wryly observed, Church of the Open Sky explores what it means to be a surfer, with a collection of true stories of Nat’s surfing life – and the friends, foes and heroes he’s met along the way.
