Download or read book Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling written by Derek Rielly and published by . This book was released on 2003 with total page 186 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A book that defines the importance of surfing to the Australian psyche with a far-ranging look at the surfers, the boards, the beaches and the surfwear that have shaped the sport for generations. After its 'discovery' in the pacific the Australians and Americans adopted surfing as a sport of choice, their long ocean-facing coastlines providing ample opportunity for experimentation and development. Only a Surfer knows the Feeling captures the essence of the sport and how Australians and Australian companies such as Billabong have been a leading force in building the surf culture of today. Beautifully designed and illustrated throughout with fantastic action photography, this is a book no surfer will want to be without.
Download or read book Only A Surfer Knows The Feeling written by Ocean Desings T and published by . This book was released on 2019-07-13 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Only $6.99! Perfect Journal, Diary, Notebook � Amazing design and high quality cover and paper. � Matte Cover. � Perfect size 6x9" � No Spiral � Use it as a journal, note taking, composition notebook, makes a great gift!
Download or read book Only A Surfer Knows The Feeling written by Ocean Desings T and published by . This book was released on 2019-07-13 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Only $6.99! Perfect Journal, Diary, Notebook � Amazing design and high quality cover and paper. � Matte Cover. � Perfect size 6x9" � No Spiral � Use it as a journal, note taking, composition notebook, makes a great gift!
Download or read book Only A Surfer Knows The Feeling written by Ocean Desings T and published by . This book was released on 2019-07-13 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Only $6.99! Perfect Journal, Diary, Notebook � Amazing design and high quality cover and paper. � Matte Cover. � Perfect size 6x9" � No Spiral � Use it as a journal, note taking, composition notebook, makes a great gift!
Download or read book Surf Sweat and Tears written by Andy Martin and published by OR Books. This book was released on 2020-03 with total page 232 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “I don’t normally read books about surfers, but this is like Truman Capote, with shorts.” —Lee Child “Andy Martin, to his immense credit, knows that surfers are misfits and accidental comics, as well as great athletes.” —Matt Warshaw “A sublime mixing of stoke and sorrow, hedonism and the macabre—skillfully and deftly penned by someone who had, and still has, intimate access to many of the key players." —Tom Anderson, author of Riding the Magic Carpet: A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave This is the true story of Ted, Viscount Deerhurst, the son of the Earl of Coventry and an American ballerina who dedicated his life to becoming a professional surfer. Surfing was a means of escape, from England, from the fraught charges of nobility, from family, and, often, from his own demons. Ted was good on the board, but never made it to the very highest ranks of a sport that, like most, treats second-best as nowhere at all. He kept on surfing, ending up where all surfers go to live or die, the paradise of Hawaii. There, in search of the “perfect woman,” he fell in love with a dancer called Lola, who worked in a Honolulu nightclub. The problem with paradise, as he was soon to discover, is that gangsters always get there first. Lola already had a serious boyfriend, a man who went by the name of Pit Bull. Ted was given fair warning to stay away. But he had a besetting sin, for which he paid the heaviest price: He never knew when to give up. Surf, Sweat and Tears takes us into the world of global surfing, revealing a dark side beneath the dazzling sun and cream-crested waves. Here is surf noir at its most compelling, a dystopian tale of one man’s obsessions, wiped out in a grisly true crime.
Download or read book It s Great to Suck at Something written by Karen Rinaldi and published by Atria Books. This book was released on 2019-05-07 with total page 256 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover how the freedom of sucking at something can help you build resilience, embrace imperfection, and find joy in the pursuit rather than the goal. What if the secret to resilience and joy is the one thing we’ve been taught to avoid? When was the last time you tried something new? Something that won’t make you more productive, make you more money, or check anything off your to-do list? Something you’re really, really bad at, but that brought you joy? Odds are, not recently. As a sh*tty surfer and all-around-imperfect human Karen Rinaldi explains in this eye-opening book, we live in a time of aspirational psychoses. We humblebrag about how hard we work and we prioritize productivity over play. Even kids don’t play for the sake of playing anymore: they’re building blocks to build the ideal college application. But we’re all being had. We’re told to be the best or nothing at all. We’re trapped in an epic and farcical quest for perfection. We judge others on stuff we can’t even begin to master, and it’s all making us more anxious and depressed than ever. Worse, we’re not improving on what really matters. This book provides the antidote. (It’s Great to) Suck at Something reveals that the key to a richer, more fulfilling life is finding something to suck at. Drawing on her personal experience sucking at surfing (a sport she’s dedicated nearly two decades of her life to doing without ever coming close to getting good at it) along with philosophy, literature, and the latest science, Rinaldi explores sucking as a lost art we must reclaim for our health and our sanity and helps us find the way to our own riotous suck-ability. She draws from sources as diverse as Anthony Bourdain and surfing luminary Jaimal Yogis, Thich Nhat Hanh, and Jean-Paul Sartre, among many others, and explains the marvelous things that happen to our mammalian brains when we try something new, all to discover what she’s learned firsthand: it is great to suck at something. Sucking at something rewires our brain in positive ways, helps us cultivate grit, and inspires us to find joy in the process, without obsessing about the destination. Ultimately, it gives you freedom: the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory. Coupling honest, hilarious storytelling with unexpected insights, (It’s Great to) Suck at Something is an invitation to embrace our shortcomings as the very best of who we are and to open ourselves up to adventure, where we may not find what we thought we were looking for, but something way more important.
Download or read book Only Surfer Knows The Feeling written by Surfing Notebooks and published by Independently Published. This book was released on 2019-06-30 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: You are a Surfer and search for a notebook? Then this notepad is a perfect gift idea for you! This notebook has 120 dotted pages with a cool front cover. It looks like a notebook you had never imagined. The very clean cream pages and the premium matt front cover makes the notebook perfect. A Surfer without a notebook is a like monkey without a banana Check out our other notebooks! You may be like them too.
Download or read book Caught Inside written by Daniel Duane and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 1997-04-10 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna
Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 321 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.
Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 352 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Download or read book Surfer Girls Kick Ass written by Tiffany Manchester and published by Bookbaby. This book was released on 2018-02-14 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Zoe Smith is flailing in her career as a professional surfer on the WSL (World Surf League)... as well as in her relationship with Derek. She needs to make a change. But what? Stuck in a funk, she heads home to Australia at the end of the competitive season, uncertain of her future. Will the end of her relationship also signify the end of her career? With the help of a best friend, a boy crush, a strange encounter with an angel, and some much-needed soul-searching, she finds herself on a magical journey out of the darkness and into the light... in surfing and in life.
Download or read book Surfing about Music written by Timothy J. Cooley and published by Univ of California Press. This book was released on 2014-01-02 with total page 239 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This first major examination the interrelationships of music and surfing explores different ways that surfers combine surfing with making and listening to music. Tim Cooley uses his knowledge and experience as a practicing musician and avid surfer to consider the musical practices of surfers in locations around the world, taking into account ideas about surfing as a global affinity group and the real-life stories of surfers and musicians he encounters. In doing so, he expands ethnomusicological thinking about the many ways musical practices are integral to human socializing, creativity, and the condition of being human. Cooley discusses the origins of surfing in Hawai‘i, its central role in Hawaiian society, and the mele (chants) and hula (dance or visual poetry) about surfing. He covers instrumental rock from groups like Dick Dale and the Del Tones and many others, and songs about surfing performed by the Beach Boys. As he traces trends globally, three broad styles emerge: surf music, punk rock, and acoustic singer-songwriter music. Cooley also examines surfing contests and music festivals as well as the music used in a selection surf movies that were particularly influential in shaping the musical practices of significant groups of surfers. Engaging, informative, and enlightening, this book is a fascinating exploration of surfing as a cultural practice with accompanying rituals, habits, and conceptions about who surfs and why, and of how musical ideas and practices are key to the many things that surfing is and aspires to be.
Download or read book Surfing and Social Theory written by Nick Ford and published by Taylor & Francis. This book was released on 2006 with total page 220 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Drawing on popular surf culture, academic literature and the analytical tools of social theory, this is the first sustained commentary on the contemporary social and cultural meaning of surfing, exploring mind and body, emotions, and aesthetics.
Download or read book The Consumption and Representation of Lifestyle Sports written by Belinda Wheaton and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2014-06-11 with total page 554 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Since their emergence in the 1960s, lifestyle sports (also referred to as action sport, extreme sports, adventure sports) have experienced unprecedented growth both in terms of participation and in their increased visibility across public and private space. book seeks to explore the changing representation and consumption of lifestyle sport in the twenty-first century. The essays, which cover a range of sports, and geographical contexts (including Brazil, Europe, North America and Australasia) focus on three themes. First, essays scrutinise aspects of the commercialisation process and impact of the media, reviewing and reconsidering theoretical frameworks to understand these processes. The scholars here emphasise the need to move beyond simplistic understandings of commercialisation as co-option and resistance, to capture the complexity and messiness of the process, and of the relationships between the cultural industries, participants and consumers. The second theme examines gender identity and representations, exploring the potential of lifestyle sport to be a politically transformative space in relation to gender, sexuality and ‘race’. The last theme explores new theoretical directions in research on lifestyle sport, including insights from philosophy, sociology and cultural geography. The themes the monograph addresses are wide reaching, and centrally concerned with the changing meaning of sport and sporting identity in the twenty-first century. This book was previously published as a Special Issue of Sport in Society.
Download or read book Walking on Ocean Floors written by Mike Mcgettigan and published by Xlibris Corporation. This book was released on 2019-10-27 with total page 289 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is based on the life of a commercial diver working in the oil and gas industry from the cowboy days of the early 1980s around Asia, India, Australasia, and Africa to the safety-orientated twenty-first century in the North Sea and Gulf of Mexico. You will travel with the characters that work in this world and see the countries that they visit. It’s a wild and dangerous job, and most people would struggle to get their head around the fact that people actually do this for a living. But that’s not all. You also get to travel with a traveller, who, when not submerged under the water building or fixing oil fields, is sitting on a surfboard riding the waves that he dreamt about when he was growing up. This is proof that dreams can turn into reality if you want to push yourself over the edge of your safety zone. Dreams become reality if you work on it and face your fears. Give it a shot and see how you go.
Download or read book Experiencing the Outdoors written by Margaret Robertson and published by Springer. This book was released on 2015-02-27 with total page 264 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The space is outdoors. The experience is personal and the journey can be solitary or take place in groups. Informal or formal the places visited are sites of learning. Locked in memory our experiences in the outdoors are a constant source of wonderment and food to replenish our sense of wellbeing. Our experiences in the outdoors can endure in the abstract as ideas for developing a sense of a well lived life. They can also draw us back to places and reenergise the body. Physical and emotional wellbeing collides in the unexpected events that flourish in the outdoors. Our readiness for enjoyment and personal development are subjective states which this book challenges. Traversing the landscape of the outdoors the collection of chapters contained range from the theoretical to the practical including strategies for teaching and learning that are transdisciplinary. With ideas for practitioners as well as thoughtful reading for readers of diverse ages and interests this book includes contributions from Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong, United Kingdom and Canada.
Download or read book Breaking Barriers in Counseling Men written by Aaron B. Rochlen and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2013-11-07 with total page 212 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Breaking Barriers in Counseling Men is a unique collection of personal and engaging contributions from nationally recognized scholars and clinicians with expertise in treating men. The editors have selected men’s clinicians who address areas as diverse as sexual dysfunction, male bonding over sports, father-son relationships, and counseling men in the military. Featuring a mix of clinical tips, personal anecdotes, and theoretical reframing, this book takes clinicians invested in these issues to the next level, breaking down barriers to connecting with men and getting them the help that is so often needed.
