Download or read book On the Breaking of Water Waves of Finite Amplitude on a Sloping Beach written by Harvey Philip Greenspan and published by . This book was released on 1957 with total page 32 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In recent paper Carrier + Greenspan showed that, within the framework of the non-linear shallow-water theory, there exist waves which do not break as they climb a sloping beach. The formation of a shock or bore is dependent on a variety of factors (wave shape, particle velocity) and, as yet, no general criteria for breaking have been found. Waves are considered which propagate shoreward into quiescent water; it is shown that any compressive wave (a wave of positive amplitude) which has a non-zero slope at the wave-front eventually breaks before reaching the coastline. In fact, an explicit relation is obtained between the initial conditions and the position where breaking occurs. (Author).
Download or read book The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1989 with total page 770 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Download or read book An Experimental Study of Breaking wave Pressures written by William J. Garcia and published by . This book was released on 1968 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves Third Edition In 2 Volumes written by Chiang C Mei and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 2018-03-15 with total page 1240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.
Download or read book Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves Linear aspects written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2005 with total page 540 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. It is intended for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves.
Download or read book Wave Breaking written by Carlos M. Lemos and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-03-13 with total page 205 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this monograph, a finite difference algorithm for study- ing two dimensional wave breaking in the vertical plane is developed. The essential feature of this algorithm is the combination of the Volume-of-Fluid (VOF) technique for arbi- trary free surfaces and the k-E turbulence model. This me- thodology allows a self-contained study for wave transforma- tion processes in shallow water before, during and after breaking. This capability is illustrated in several calcula- tions. This book will be of interest for final year graduates, postgraduates and researchers working in the fields of tur- bulence modelling, wave hydrodynamics, coastal engineering, and oceanography of coastal regions.
Download or read book Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves In 2 Parts written by Chiang C Mei and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 2005-07-26 with total page 1135 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded version, three chapters on recent developments have been added. The first is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry. The second is on Zakharov's theory of nonlinear wave fields with broad spectra. The third is an extensive discussion of powerful numerical techniques for highly nonlinear waves. Other new topics include infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.
Download or read book Applied Mechanics Reviews written by and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 636 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coastal Engineering 2002 Solving Coastal Conundrums Proceedings Of The 28th International Conference In 3 Vols written by Jane Mckee Smith and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2003-03-14 with total page 4007 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book contains more than 300 papers presented at the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, held in Cardiff, Wales, in July 2002. It is divided into five parts: coastal waves; nearshore currents, swash, and long waves; coastal structures; sediment transport; and coastal morphology, beach nourishment, and coastal management. The papers cover a broad range of topics, including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. Coastal Engineering 2002 provides engineers, scientists, and planners with state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.
Download or read book Developments in Offshore Engineering written by John B. Herbich and published by Gulf Professional Publishing. This book was released on 1999 with total page 588 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Drawing from experts and top researchers from around the world, this book presents current developments in a variety of areas that impact offshore and ocean engineering.
Download or read book Naval Research Reviews written by and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications written by Robert G. Dean and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-03-25 with total page 498 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Text on coastal engineering and oceanography covering theory and applications intended to mitigate shoreline erosion.
Download or read book Simulation of Water Waves by Boussinesq Models written by Ge Wei and published by . This book was released on 1997 with total page 234 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A new set of time-dependent Boussinesq equations is derived to simulate nonlinear long wave propagation in coastal regions. Following the approaches by Nwogu and later by Chen and Liu, the velocity (or velocity potential) at a certain water depth corresponding to the optimum linear dispersion property is used as a dependent variable. Therefore, the resulting equations are valid in intermediate water depth as well as for highly nonlinear waves. Coefficients for second order bound waves and the third order Schrodinger equation are derived and compared with exact solutions. A numerical model using a combination of second and fourth order schemes to discretize equation terms is developed for obtaining solutions to the equations. A fourth order predictor-corrector scheme is employed for time stepping and the first order derivative terms are finite differenced to fourth order accuracy, making the truncation errors smaller than the dispersive terms in the equations. Linear stability analysis is performed to determine the corresponding numerical stability range for the model. To avoid the problem of wave reflection from the conventional incident boundary condition, internal wave generation by source function is employed for the present model. Numerical filtering is applied at specified time steps in the model to eliminate short waves (about 2 to 5 times of the grid size) which are generated by the nonlinear interaction of long waves. To simulate the wave breaking process, additional terms for artificial eddy viscosity are included in the model equations to dissipate wave energy. The dissipation terms are activated when the horizontal gradient of the horizontal velocity exceeds the specified breaking criteria. Some of the existing models for simulating the process of wave runup are reviewed and we attempt to incorporate the present model to simulate the process by maintaining a thin layer of water over the physically dry grids.
Download or read book Theory of Ionospheric Waves written by Peter S. Liu and published by Academic Press. This book was released on 1973-02-09 with total page 481 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Theory of Ionospheric Waves
Download or read book Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering written by Philip L. F. Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1999 with total page 263 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.
Download or read book Advances In Coastal And Ocean Engineering Vol 4 written by Philip L-f Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1999-06-17 with total page 263 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This volume consists of five excellent review papers. In the first paper, “A Review of Coastal Wave Modeling: The Physical and Mathematical Problems”, N E Huang presents a summary of the state-of-the-art of wave modeling in deep waters. He points out several shortcomings in existing modeling approaches and expresses the urgent need for developing a statistical theory of surface waves in shallow waters. Huang believes that the statistical theory can be formulated as the soliton turbulence. He also points out other important issues in wave modeling, including the air-sea interaction processes, and the physics of the wave-current and dissipation processes. In the second paper A C Radder focuses his discussion on the “Hamiltonian Dynamics of Water Waves”. He demonstrates that the Hamiltonian theory of surface waves can be formulated in terms of surface elevation and the velocity potential at the free surface as canonical variables. Several evolution equations, can be readily obtained. Radder also points out the need to develop a stochastic wave model in the shallow-water environment.The maximum runup is arguably the single most important parameter in the design of coastal structures and for the evaluation of the inundation potential of storm surges and tsunamis. C E Synolakis presents a thorough review of the “Exact Solutions of Shallow-Water Wave Equations”. For a single sloping beach, the evolution and runup of solitary, dipole, N and cnoidal waves are discussed. These solutions are then extended to more practical problems.The last two papers concern the flow and sediment motions near the seafloor. In their paper, “Boundary Layer and Sediment Dynamics Under Sea Waves”, P Blondeaux and G Vittori give an expert review of the recent contributions on the understanding of the interaction of the coherent vortex with cohesionless or partially cohesive sediments in a boundary layer. The formation and development of small-scale bedforms in the coastal regions are also discussed. Finally, in “Wave Scour Around Structures”, B M Sumer and J Fredsøe review the scouring processes around various types of structures. Many recent experimental data and theoretical developments are presented.
Download or read book Hydrodynamics in the Ocean Environment written by Milton Spinoza Plesset and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 1216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
