Download or read book Observed and Simulated Water Surface Waves in Shallow Waters written by Bingyu Yang and published by . This book was released on 2014 with total page 218 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Remote sensing technologies can provide instruments and techniques to obtain images of surface wave fields. In this research, water surface wave imagery was collected using high definition video cameras. Wave heights obtained from the imagery and spectral analysis was applied to wave height time series. An imaging technique using staff gauges was used to measure water surface elevations using a mono imaging method. The techniques developed can be used for calibration and validation of shallow water surface gravity wave models. The resulting wave spectrums extracted using Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) analysis was used in an existing Fortran 90 program developed to generate simulated water wave images. Simulated images were compared to sensor based images. The wave spectrum used in this research utilized a Weibull probability distribution model for simulation of wave heights and wave slope facets. Parameter sensitivity analysis was conducted to illustrate the effects of the Weibull distribution shape and scale parameters on the simulated water surface wave energy.
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996 with total page 514 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2017-09-28 with total page 801 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
Download or read book Practical Methods for Observing and Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics written by Willard J Pierson and published by . This book was released on 1955 with total page 312 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Download or read book Twenty Second Symposium on Naval Hydrodynamics written by National Research Council and published by National Academies Press. This book was released on 2000-03-02 with total page 1039 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Twenty-Second Symposium on Naval Hydrodynamics was held in Washington, D.C., from August 9-14, 1998. It coincided with the 100th anniversary of the David Taylor Model Basin. This international symposium was organized jointly by the Office of Naval Research (Mechanics and Energy Conversion S&T Division), the National Research Council (Naval Studies Board), and the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division (David Taylor Model Basin). This biennial symposium promotes the technical exchange of naval research developments of common interest to all the countries of the world. The forum encourages both formal and informal discussion of the presented papers, and the occasion provides an opportunity for direct communication between international peers.
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction 2nd Edition written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2013-01-30 with total page 690 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.
Download or read book Wind Stress Over the Ocean written by Ian S. F. Jones and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2001-09-24 with total page 277 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A comprehensive 2001 volume for researchers and graduate students in oceanography, meteorology, fluid dynamics and coastal engineering.
Download or read book Sea and Swell Observations written by United States. Hydrographic Office and published by . This book was released on 1951 with total page 12 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Observations of Particle Motions in Ocean Waves written by David H. Shonting and published by . This book was released on 1967 with total page 350 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Higher Approximation to Nonlinear Water Waves and the Limiting Heights of Cnoidal Solitary and Stokes Waves written by Edmund V. Laitone and published by . This book was released on 1963 with total page 118 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: To obtain the first and second approximations to solitary and cnoidal waves the shallow water expansion method of Friedrichs and Keller is carried out to the fourth order. It is shown that the rigorous first approximation to these amplitude waves of permanent form is identical to the solution first given by Korteweg and deVries in 1895. The second approximation however results in some new expressions for predicting the behavior of long waves in shallow water. Limiting amplitude is found to be 8/11 of the free water depth for the solitary wave. The third approximation to Stokes waves in water of finite depth is verified by the use of the classical small-perturbation expansion method. For finite amplitude waves the series expansion is found to be in terms of a parameter most suitable for wavelengths shorter than 8 times the depth. Rather severe restrictions inherent in the well-known analogy between the nonlinear shallow water flow and two-dimensional perfect gas flow are pointed out. (Author).
Download or read book Ocean Engineering Science written by Bernard Le Méhauté and published by Harvard University Press. This book was released on 2005-06-28 with total page 1340 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Research on Waves Surf and Related Problems written by Joe William Johnson and published by . This book was released on 1948 with total page 48 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book An Experimental Study of the Growth of Mechanically Generated Surface Water Waves when Subjected to a Fully Developed Turbulent Channel Airflow written by W. Stanley Wilson and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 110 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An experimental study was conducted to measure the growth rates of mechanically generated surface water waves when subjected to fully developed turbulent channel airflow. The study was designed to test the accuracy of the growth rates predicted by the Miles; 1962 Theory. (Author).
Download or read book Waves of the Sea and Other Water Waves Classic Reprint written by Vaughan Cornish and published by Forgotten Books. This book was released on 2016-09-15 with total page 488 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Excerpt from Waves of the Sea, and Other Water Waves These things, and others of a like nature, I have watched for many years, and I have set down in this book what I have been able to add to former knowledge. I have written to inform the mind, not to stir the imagination. The appearances are familiar and recurrent, and I do not attempt to recall them by much word-painting, but the precise observation and measurement of waves, and the discovery of the mode of their production, are matters of difficulty, and to these I have given myself. My investigations on water waves have been prosecuted during the last fifteen years. They have been made in many parts of the world, which I have visited principally for the study of surface waves of different kinds. The chief results as far as they, relate to water waves are contained in this volume, which contains also a critical examination of observations made by a number of seamen and others upon the size and speed of ocean waves. Most of Part relating. To tidal bores and other waves in rivers, was published in the Geographical Journal and in Engineering in 1906, but Parts I. And II., which relate to waves of the sea, are new, and were written in I 909-1 0. Side by side with the observations of water waves, I have during the same period since I 89 5) been investigating the progressive transverse ridges which are produced in sand and snow by the action of water or wind, and I have made observations upon earthquakes and other wave phenomena which come within the province of physical geography. These I intend to publish later. About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.com This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully; any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.
Download or read book Visual Wave Observations written by Willard J. Pierson and published by . This book was released on 1956 with total page 58 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Simulation of Water Waves by Boussinesq Models written by Ge Wei and published by . This book was released on 1997 with total page 234 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A new set of time-dependent Boussinesq equations is derived to simulate nonlinear long wave propagation in coastal regions. Following the approaches by Nwogu and later by Chen and Liu, the velocity (or velocity potential) at a certain water depth corresponding to the optimum linear dispersion property is used as a dependent variable. Therefore, the resulting equations are valid in intermediate water depth as well as for highly nonlinear waves. Coefficients for second order bound waves and the third order Schrodinger equation are derived and compared with exact solutions. A numerical model using a combination of second and fourth order schemes to discretize equation terms is developed for obtaining solutions to the equations. A fourth order predictor-corrector scheme is employed for time stepping and the first order derivative terms are finite differenced to fourth order accuracy, making the truncation errors smaller than the dispersive terms in the equations. Linear stability analysis is performed to determine the corresponding numerical stability range for the model. To avoid the problem of wave reflection from the conventional incident boundary condition, internal wave generation by source function is employed for the present model. Numerical filtering is applied at specified time steps in the model to eliminate short waves (about 2 to 5 times of the grid size) which are generated by the nonlinear interaction of long waves. To simulate the wave breaking process, additional terms for artificial eddy viscosity are included in the model equations to dissipate wave energy. The dissipation terms are activated when the horizontal gradient of the horizontal velocity exceeds the specified breaking criteria. Some of the existing models for simulating the process of wave runup are reviewed and we attempt to incorporate the present model to simulate the process by maintaining a thin layer of water over the physically dry grids.
