Download or read book LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 3 The 1930s written by Malcolm Gault-Williams and published by Lulu.com. This book was released on 2012-12-12 with total page 267 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 3: 1930s" details the surf world of the 1930s, including California, Florida, Hawaii, Australia and Britain. This is not a coffee table book. It is specifically written for surfers who want to know the details of the heritage we are blessed to share, as told by those who lived it.
Download or read book San Onofre written by David F. MKatuszak and published by . This book was released on 2018-09-02 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: San Onofre: Memories of a Legendary Surfing Beach is a landmark achievement in the study of surfing history and culture from its origins in Polynesia, Peru, and Africa, to the role that San Onofre played in molding California surf culture.San Onofre is the story of the California surfing culture as seen through the eyes of the surfers at San Onofre Surf Beach. Pioneer surfers tell their own story of the Golden Age of Surfing and illustrate their tales with never-before-seen vintage photographs from their own family albums. Their stories offer a priceless collection of primary source data for future studies of the sport.
Download or read book Men who Ride Mountains written by Peter L. Dixon and published by Globe Pequot. This book was released on 2001 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this exuberant celebration of modern surfing, a surf journalist shares thefacts, lore, and legend of his beloved sport. Photos throughout.
Download or read book Legendary Surfers written by Malcolm Gault-Williams and published by . This book was released on 2005 with total page 362 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The first volume covers the period of time between surfing's origins after 2,500 B.C. to the year 1910 A.D. and through Duke Kahanamoku's life. The second volume covers the period 1910 through 1929 and the entire life of twentieth century pioneer surfer and innovator Tom Blake.
Download or read book Defying Gravity written by Garrett Soden and published by W. W. Norton & Company. This book was released on 2005 with total page 356 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Riveting....A must-read history of daredevilry and gravity sports."--San Francisco Chronicle
Download or read book Surfing written by Grégory Maubé and published by Silverback Books. This book was released on 2004 with total page 130 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A book in the 'Extreme Sport' collection that treats surfing like a way of life, a way of being in the world.
Download or read book Legendary Locals of Encinitas written by Alison Burns and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2012 with total page 130 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Drawn by extravagant promises of "a beautiful village of 500 inhabitants, studded with orange trees and grapevines," the Hammond family arrived in Encinitas in 1883 only to find that advertisements had rather overstated the case. Undeterred, these 11 English settlers remained and, in doing so, doubled the town's population overnight. Subsequent pioneers brought wide-ranging talents to this fledgling California coastal town--none more so than the Ecke dynasty, whose flower fields established Encinitas as the poinsettia capital of the world. Today, the city encompasses five distinct communities, and while it boasts many famous celebrities, it is the ordinary folk whose passion and daring have made Encinitas the place their forebears long ago envisaged.
Download or read book Legends of Surfing written by Duke Boyd and published by MVP Books. This book was released on 2009-11-07 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)
Download or read book Hollywood Surf and Beach Movies written by Thomas Lisanti and published by McFarland. This book was released on 2015-05-07 with total page 457 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfers loathed them, teenagers flocked to them, critics dismissed them, producers banked on them--surf and beach movies. For a short time in the 1960s they were extremely popular with younger audiences--mainly because of the shirtless surfer boys and bikini-clad beach girls, the musical performers, and the wild surfing footage. This lavishly illustrated filmography details 32 sizzling fun-in-the-sun teenage epics from Gidget to the Beach Party movies with Frankie and Annette to The Sweet Ride plus a few offshoots in the snow!) Entries include credits, plot synopses, memorable lines, reviews and awards, and commentary from such as Aron Kincaid of The Girls on the Beach, Susan Hart of The Ghost in the Invisible Bikini, Peter Brown of Ride the Wild Surf, Chris Noel of Beach Ball, and Ed Garner of Beach Blanket Bingo. Biographies of actors and leading actresses who made their marks in the genre are included.
Download or read book Surfing written by Don Nardo and published by Greenhaven Publishing LLC. This book was released on 2014-05-16 with total page 106 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Author Don Nardo examines the many aspects of science underlying the popular sport of surfing. This book discusses the physics of waves, the science behind board shape and how riders stay on the board, covering the principles of gravity, buoyancy, and water surface tension. It also covers the scientific principles behind movements such as popping-up on the board; catching a wave; riding a wave; turning; the "hang-ten"; the "duck dive"; the "turtle roll"; and others. Other connections to science are made through discussion of wiping out, rip currents, collisions and typical injuries, hypothermia, and shark attacks. This volume discusses psychological aspects, especially anxiety.
Download or read book The American Surfer written by Kristin Lawler and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2010-10-18 with total page 222 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book examines the surfer, one of the most significant and enduring archetypes in American popular culture. Lawler sets the surfer against the backdrop of the negative reactions to it by those groups responsible for enforcing the Puritan discipline, offering a fresh take on the relationship between commercial culture and counterculture.
Download or read book Surfing written by Douglas G. Booth and published by Bloomsbury Publishing USA. This book was released on 2011-02-18 with total page 182 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This guide showcases the world of extreme surfing, describing the unique culture associated with this daredevil's sport, providing insights into what makes the top riders tick, explaining the science of big waves, and more. "The Pipeline" in O'ahu, Hawaii. "Maverick's Point" in northern California. "Ours" near Sydney, Australia. All over the world, extreme surfers risk severe injury or even death from riptides, shark attacks, and collisions with the seabed itself, just to experience the ultimate high from tackling—and triumphing over—one of the most powerful forces on earth. Surfing: The Ultimate Guide explains the culture of extreme surfing—including the often violent "locals only" mentality—and analyzes the dangers involved in riding the world's biggest and most ferocious waves. The author examines the history of extreme surfing, including past and contemporary heroes; the science of giant waves; the technical criteria for riding them; and the future of big-wave riding.
Download or read book Surfing Places Surfboard Makers written by Andrew Warren and published by University of Hawaii Press. This book was released on 2014-01-31 with total page 290 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Over the last forty years, surfing has emerged from its Pacific islands origins to become a global industry. Since its beginnings more than a thousand years ago, surfing’s icon has been the surfboard—its essential instrument, the point of physical connection between human and nature, body and wave. To a surfer, a board is more than a piece of equipment; it is a symbol, a physical emblem of cultural, social, and emotional meanings. Based on research in three important surfing locations—Hawai‘i, southern California, and southeastern Australia—this is the first book to trace the surfboard from regional craft tradition to its key role in the billion-dollar surfing business. The surfboard workshops of Hawai‘i, California, and Australia are much more than sites of surfboard manufacturing. They are hives of creativity where legacies of rich cultural heritage and the local environment combine to produce unique, bold board designs customized to suit prevailing waves. The globalization and corporatization of surfing have presented small, independent board makers with many challenges stemming from the wide availability of cheap, mass-produced boards and the influx of new surfers. The authors follow the story of board makers who have survived these challenges and stayed true to their calling by keeping the mythology and creativity of board making alive. In addition, they explore the heritage of the craft, the secrets of custom board production, the role of local geography in shaping board styles, and the survival of hand-crafting skills. From the olo boards of ancient Hawaiian kahuna to the high-tech designs that represent the current state of the industry, Surfing Places, Surfboard Makers offers an entrée into the world of surfboard making that will find an eager audience among researchers and students of Pacific culture, history, geography, and economics, as well as surfing enthusiasts.
Download or read book The Code written by Shaun Tomson and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2013-10-15 with total page 137 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: How to convert the power of “I Will” into a life-changing mantra The twelve stories in this book, taken from Shaun Tomson’s own life experiences in and out of the surfing world, offer the simple message—I Will—as a model to face life’s challenges and help you achieve your goals. All you need is to be encouraged to find your voice and commit yourself to positive values. The stories resonate with positivity and hope for the future, and are infused with the belief that even in the darkest time, light shines ahead to show you the way forward.
Download or read book Surfing written by Peter Diel and published by Meyer & Meyer Verlag. This book was released on 2008 with total page 202 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A guide to surfing offers information on the origins of the sport, essential equipment, techniques, and the best surfing locations in the United States, Hawaii, Australia, and Europe.
Download or read book Surf Craft written by Richard Kenvin and published by MIT Press. This book was released on 2014-07-18 with total page 193 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The evolution of the surfboard, from traditional Hawaiian folk designs to masterpieces of mathematical engineering to mass-produced fiberglass. Surfboards were once made of wood and shaped by hand, objects of both cultural and recreational significance. Today most surfboards are mass-produced with fiberglass and a stew of petrochemicals, moving (or floating) billboards for athletes and their brands, emphasizing the commercial rather than the cultural. Surf Craft maps this evolution, examining surfboard design and craft with 150 color images and an insightful text. From the ancient Hawaiian alaia, the traditional board of the common people, to the unadorned boards designed with mathematical precision (but built by hand) by Bob Simmons, to the store-bought longboards popularized by the 1959 surf-exploitation movie Gidget, board design reflects both aesthetics and history. The decline of traditional alaia board riding is not only an example of a lost art but also a metaphor for the disintegration of traditional culture after the Republic of Hawaii was overthrown and annexed in the 1890s. In his text, Richard Kenvin looks at the craft and design of surfboards from a historical and cultural perspective. He views board design as an exemplary model of mingei, or art of the people, and the craft philosophy of Soetsu Yanagi. Yanagi believed that a design's true beauty and purpose are revealed when it is put to its intended use. In its purest form, the craft of board building, along with the act of surfing itself, exemplifies mingei. Surf Craft pays particular attention to Bob Simmons's boards, which are striking examples of this kind of functional design, mirroring the work of postwar modern California designers. Surf Craft is published in conjunction with an exhibition at San Diego's Mingei International Museum.
Download or read book Hawaiian Surfing written by John R. K. Clark and published by University of Hawaii Press. This book was released on 2011-05-31 with total page 514 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Hawaiian Surfing is a history of the traditional sport narrated primarily by native Hawaiians who wrote for the Hawaiian-language newspapers of the 1800s. An introductory section covers traditional surfing, including descriptions of the six Hawaiian surf-riding sports (surfing, bodysurfing, canoe surfing, body boarding, skimming, and river surfing). This is followed by an exhaustive Hawaiian-English dictionary of surfing terms and references from Hawaiian-language publications and a special section of Waikiki place names related to traditional surfing. The information in each of these sections is supported by passages in Hawaiian, followed by English translations. The work concludes with a glossary of English-Hawaiian surfing terms and an index of proper names, place names, and surf spots.
